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Have you guys seen the 2fast2furious replica evo in Welisara sale????Its there for the last 12 months i guess... Is it not for sale or no one wanna buy it???

AGAIN old news :D

there was a long chat about that car in the old forum

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i think they are the same people with that monster truck, cause i have seen both of them parked alng .

is that a real evo ? or a lancer?

aparently its a cedia converted into a Evo.. and yes thats the same place with the monster truck (if that's what we're calling it)..

i dont quite remember the thread but it was in the NEW forum.. somewhere around january i think... and i posted some pics as well...

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aparently its a cedia converted into a Evo.. and yes thats the same place with the monster truck (if that's what we're calling it)..

i dont quite remember the thread but it was in the NEW forum.. somewhere around january i think... and i posted some pics as well...

resizeofimg03273wm.th.jpgresizeofimg03239yi.th.jpg :(

Wikipedia is like a 'siyallata thilaya' for praveen, isnt it? :D

How bout u just stick to Peri??!

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N Ash nice Exhaust i saw ur ride at Keels super today .. (NAwalA)

Man.... Ur every where. How was ur exams??? :action-smiley-060:

Yeah I just dropped to get some stuff. Had a tuneup in the daytime. Now the car really moves. But badly needs to get the shocks replaced. Not using that car much till I get that done. :angry-smiley-048:

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  • 2 weeks later...

ya ok i can liv wit dat may be u both wer a bit more helpful rather than tryin to condem!! like i said thanks 4 everything anyway imran offerd me some mods say 4 about rs.35 or 40,000 like lightnin the fly wheel n the intake!! thanks guys!!! :lol:

Hi,

Saw this thread and maybe I can offer a bit of help. Don't lighten the flywheel just yet instead see below:

Replace stock intake with CAI and K&N heat shielded Filter

Cost= Approx Rs. 5000 for CAI and Rs. 15,000 for filter

Put 3 star petrol instead of normal crap

Cost= Rs. 3500 for a full tank, will last u about 7-10 days

Change the exhaust manifold to either a custom header or get one from JWT

Tokimo guy in Delkanda will make a decent on from Stainless steel

Cost= Rs. 15,000-35,000 (depending on local or imprt)

Advance ignition timing (but only if are running higher octane fuel!!) to 12 degrees

can be done at anyplace that has a timing light A*W doesn't (useless morons) D*MO's does

Cost= Rs. 2000-5000 max

Switch to NGK platinum spark plugs

Cost= Rs. 5000

Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it at 45psi

Cost= Rs. 5,000-10,000 dependning on brand

Get a free flow muffler installed, u can get em for all prices from elcardo

Cost= Rs. 6,000-10,000

Go in for a standalone air fuel controller like HKS Super AFR or Apexi SAFC2

but see if your ECU has the required pins for one, then set it on self leran...voila instant power :rolleyes:

Cost: Rs. 35,000-60,000

After all of these you can expect to up your total bhp by approximately 25-35 which should help you get across Marine drive a bit quicker....hehehehe

Last but not least there is also the turbo option, for which I don't wish to get into unless you are really really serious.

Hope this helps u dude :rolleyes: cheers, porky

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Hi,

Saw this thread and maybe I can offer a bit of help. Don't lighten the flywheel just yet instead see below:

Replace stock intake with CAI and K&N heat shielded Filter

Cost= Approx Rs. 5000 for CAI and Rs. 15,000 for filter

Put 3 star petrol instead of normal crap

Cost= Rs. 3500 for a full tank, will last u about 7-10 days

Change the exhaust manifold to either a custom header or get one from JWT

Tokimo guy in Delkanda will make a decent on from Stainless steel

Cost= Rs. 15,000-35,000 (depending on local or imprt)

Advance ignition timing (but only if are running higher octane fuel!!) to 12 degrees

can be done at anyplace that has a timing light A*W doesn't (useless morons) D*MO's does

Cost= Rs. 2000-5000 max

Switch to NGK platinum spark plugs

Cost= Rs. 5000

Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it at 45psi

Cost= Rs. 5,000-10,000 dependning on brand

Get a free flow muffler installed, u can get em for all prices from elcardo

Cost= Rs. 6,000-10,000

Go in for a standalone air fuel controller like HKS Super AFR or Apexi SAFC2

but see if your ECU has the required pins for one, then set it on self leran...voila instant power :rolleyes:

Cost: Rs. 35,000-60,000

After all of these you can expect to up your total bhp by approximately 25-35 which should help you get across Marine drive a bit quicker....hehehehe

Last but not least there is also the turbo option, for which I don't wish to get into unless you are really really serious.

Hope this helps u dude :lol: cheers, porky

Welcome to site dude..

Sorry to say it will still be an over weight 1300 'econo' sunny.. 25-35 hp increase with bolt on's?? you must be kidding! :rolleyes: An AFC even if it did fit will not give any gains..45 PSI will bust his engine seals on it's own.. and anyway the ECU will 'over correct' high pressures..

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OK GUYS CUD URL GIVE THE LIST OF PERFORMANCE MODS STARTING FROM AIR FILTER WIT EXHAUST DAT I CUD PUT IN MA ride?

mchan.., i cn give u a hell of a lot of mod u cn do to ur car....but trust me its gonna be sooooooooooooooe damn expensive n it wont be a easy to drive on normal roads..cos u cn get a moded cam (to ur specs from thailand or from singapore), ur moded pistons and everything(custom made)...but its expensive..no one can tel u cant mod a N16 or a even a FB13..(not exterior guys which im not interested in) everything is der after market..but its expensive..

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Welcome to site dude..

Sorry to say it will still be an over weight 1300 'econo' sunny.. 25-35 hp increase with bolt on's?? you must be kidding! :D An AFC even if it did fit will not give any gains..45 PSI will bust his engine seals on it's own.. and anyway the ECU will 'over correct' high pressures..

Hi,

Thanks for the welcome much appreciated.

As for the N16 mods, I don't think it will be an overweight issue as all those mods I have mentioned are very little in weight with the biggest weight contibutor being the muffler but that can be balanced by weighing the removed original and checking it against a comparable flow thru type.

We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains, the AFC steps in where the ECU can't since an ECU will adjust only upto a certain point, unless it is sent for a reprogram. The standard pressure is somewhere between 35-38 psi by setting the adjustable VPC to 45 then having the AFC prior to the ECU this will bypass the ECU correction problem. The AFC will have upto 45psi on tap but will only release the required amount according to the MAF signal it receives, if it does not have the slightly higher fuel pressure available then it cannot richen as it needs more fuel for the larger CFM of air. The approximated gains mentioned above is on the assumption that all the specified mods for an N/A engine is correctly installed and tested. Once correctly programmed the AFC will adjust the injector pulse according to the increased airflow from the CAI thus giving the optimised ratios for increased performance. It also helps to do a running test with a good Dynotune AFR tester this will help in adjusting the AFC to optimal Stoich, this same principal can be applied to set it to Stoich-Rich if later going boost.

As for engine seals, the if they are already not in a bad condition due to irregular oil changes and overrevving on low thermal viscous handling oil, they will hold up, even under boosted conditions upto 12psi. The Nissan engine block though not as refined as the Honda's is quite hardy and takes better to mods that say the Honda DX engine and even the b16a series OBD1 vtecs to a certain extent especially under boosted conditions where the vtecs start to falter.

Cheers, Porky :lol:

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Hi,

Thanks for the welcome much appreciated.

As for the N16 mods, I don't think it will be an overweight issue as all those mods I have mentioned are very little in weight with the biggest weight contibutor being the muffler but that can be balanced by weighing the removed original and checking it against a comparable flow thru type.

Dude I was refering to the cars total weight- not the weight of the mods yuou suggested!! :angry-smiley-048:

We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains, the AFC steps in where the ECU can't since an ECU will adjust only upto a certain point, unless it is sent for a reprogram. The standard pressure is somewhere between 35-38 psi by setting the adjustable VPC to 45 then having the AFC prior to the ECU this will bypass the ECU correction problem. The AFC will have upto 45psi on tap but will only release the required amount according to the MAF signal it receives, if it does not have the slightly higher fuel pressure available then it cannot richen as it needs more fuel for the larger CFM of air. The approximated gains mentioned above is on the assumption that all the specified mods for an N/A engine is correctly installed and tested. Once correctly programmed the AFC will adjust the injector pulse according to the increased airflow from the CAI thus giving the optimised ratios for increased performance. It also helps to do a running test with a good Dynotune AFR tester this will help in adjusting the AFC to optimal Stoich, this same principal can be applied to set it to Stoich-Rich if later going boost.

Thats all very nice.. but like you said "We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains" Also your fixing the AFC behind an ODB2 econo ECU.. the AFC only sends a pulse to the ECU and in most cases the ECU will over ride it with it's own mapping before sending signals to the engine.. sometimes the AFC can mess up the ECU's own mapping and you will find more loss than gain.. :alc: Speaking from unfortunate experience..

As for engine seals, the if they are already not in a bad condition due to irregular oil changes and overrevving on low thermal viscous handling oil, they will hold up, even under boosted conditions upto 12psi. The Nissan engine block though not as refined as the Honda's is quite hardy and takes better to mods that say the Honda DX engine and even the b16a series OBD1 vtecs to a certain extent especially under boosted conditions where the vtecs start to falter.

Cheers, Porky B)

What Nissan engine block are you talking about here Porky? An SR surely?? you cant be refering to a 1300 N16 engine block "taking better to mods" than a b16a or even a d16y?? where did you read that? :blink: You'll have to expain that one better macho... still cant figure out where the 25-35 hp gains are going to come from :blink:

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In my books, the only 1300cc engine car worth having comes with a wankel :alc: RX-8. Same time round the top gear track as a BMW M3 and a 350Z. A 1.3 wankel having the same time as a 3.5l V6? Bloody Crazy!! :blink:

Whats that come to in SL prices? 5.5 mill? and a Z costs 9.5 to 10?

And this from a huge Nissan fan :blink:

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In my books, the only 1300cc engine car worth having comes with a wankel :alc: RX-8. Same time round the top gear track as a BMW M3 and a 350Z. A 1.3 wankel having the same time as a 3.5l V6? Bloody Crazy!! :blink:

Whats that come to in SL prices? 5.5 mill? and a Z costs 9.5 to 10?

And this from a huge Nissan fan :blink:

Dude the Cutus GTI has kick a*s 1300!! But its amazing how Mazda knock out so much power out of such a small cubic capacity.

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Thats all very nice.. but like you said "We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains" Also your fixing the AFC behind an ODB2 econo ECU.. the AFC only sends a pulse to the ECU and in most cases the ECU will over ride it with it's own mapping before sending signals to the engine.. sometimes the AFC can mess up the ECU's own mapping and you will find more loss than gain.. Speaking from unfortunate experience..

I have a decent experience or two up the sleeve on HKS and Apexi electronics and so far, though I prefer the HKS units the Apexi stuff hasn't given me any problems, of course it helps to have the proper AFR gauges to check air fuel ratios when tuning with these CPU driven chips. So far I have had and expreinced only gains, if required I can install an AFC for you and show you how it works for your advantage.

As for engine seals, the if they are already not in a bad condition due to irregular oil changes and overrevving on low thermal viscous handling oil, they will hold up, even under boosted conditions upto 12psi. The Nissan engine block though not as refined as the Honda's is quite hardy and takes better to mods that say the Honda DX engine and even the b16a series OBD1 vtecs to a certain extent especially under boosted conditions where the vtecs start to falter.

Cheers, Porky

What Nissan engine block are you talking about here Porky? An SR surely?? you cant be refering to a 1300 N16 engine block "taking better to mods" than a b16a or even a d16y?? where did you read that? You'll have to expain that one better macho... still cant figure out where the 25-35 hp gains are going to come from

Since this thread is for assistance on a 1300 cc Nissan QG13DE engine I was referring to the same engine, once more I have a few experiences on Nissans and not from just reading and this is why I had posted some options for the person who wanted to get some more power out of his car. In general Nissan blows less engines than Hondas...this is my personal experience though I do like the B16B and B18B engines. Once again the proof is in the pudding so all I say is give me a 1300cc EFi anything and I will get out the horses from it to pleasantly suprise the owner/driver. It is relatively easy to take a larger engine like the SR20s and get them put out more power especially by boosting, for me the challenge is working on the so called 'wimpy' cars and turning them into decent street racers and I am thoroughly enjoying that challenge thank you :wacko: Chers, Porky

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Thats all very nice.. but like you said "We also cannot expect the AFC to give all the gains" Also your fixing the AFC behind an ODB2 econo ECU.. the AFC only sends a pulse to the ECU and in most cases the ECU will over ride it with it's own mapping before sending signals to the engine.. sometimes the AFC can mess up the ECU's own mapping and you will find more loss than gain.. Speaking from unfortunate experience..

I have a decent experience or two up the sleeve on HKS and Apexi electronics and so far, though I prefer the HKS units the Apexi stuff hasn't given me any problems, of course it helps to have the proper AFR gauges to check air fuel ratios when tuning with these CPU driven chips. So far I have had and expreinced only gains, if required I can install an AFC for you and show you how it works for your advantage.

As for engine seals, the if they are already not in a bad condition due to irregular oil changes and overrevving on low thermal viscous handling oil, they will hold up, even under boosted conditions upto 12psi. The Nissan engine block though not as refined as the Honda's is quite hardy and takes better to mods that say the Honda DX engine and even the b16a series OBD1 vtecs to a certain extent especially under boosted conditions where the vtecs start to falter.

Cheers, Porky

What Nissan engine block are you talking about here Porky? An SR surely?? you cant be refering to a 1300 N16 engine block "taking better to mods" than a b16a or even a d16y?? where did you read that? You'll have to expain that one better macho... still cant figure out where the 25-35 hp gains are going to come from

Since this thread is for assistance on a 1300 cc Nissan QG13DE engine I was referring to the same engine, once more I have a few experiences on Nissans and not from just reading and this is why I had posted some options for the person who wanted to get some more power out of his car. In general Nissan blows less engines than Hondas...this is my personal experience though I do like the B16B and B18B engines. Once again the proof is in the pudding so all I say is give me a 1300cc EFi anything and I will get out the horses from it to pleasantly suprise the owner/driver. It is relatively easy to take a larger engine like the SR20s and get them put out more power especially by boosting, for me the challenge is working on the so called 'wimpy' cars and turning them into decent street racers and I am thoroughly enjoying that challenge thank you :D Chers, Porky

Cool scene dude.. its good to have guyswho debate technical on autolanka.. makes very pleasent conversation - thats something most looked forward to so :wacko: Yep its a wonderful challenge to take a smaller engine and whoop larger capasity cars.. Anyhow dude thanks for the offer on the AFC- I'll take a rain check though. - I used to run a VAFC on mine which the was horrible! It was not worth one red cent. And I aint about to try 'em again- Looking to save the cash and go in for whole chip... See you around in the forums... :blink:

PS: I dont agree with you one bit on the 'Nissan blows less engines than Hondas' buts thats another discussion all together :D

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Cool scene dude.. its good to have guyswho debate technical on autolanka.. makes very pleasent conversation - thats something most looked forward to so :jumping-smiley-013: Yep its a wonderful challenge to take a smaller engine and whoop larger capasity cars.. Anyhow dude thanks for the offer on the AFC- I'll take a rain check though. - I used to run a VAFC on mine which the was horrible! It was not worth one red cent. And I aint about to try 'em again- Looking to save the cash and go in for whole chip... See you around in the forums... :angry-smiley-048:

PS: I dont agree with you one bit on the 'Nissan blows less engines than Hondas' buts thats another discussion all together :alc:

Yes thanks, sorry to hear your VAFC messed up, I have noted some resetting errors on the Apexi units once installed, but the similar HKS one is more stable, also it depends on how the installation was done. The initial self learn processing is important. I had an issue once with a Nissan where once we had set it up the car was running very rough, kind of like it was choking, then I ran the diagnostic on it with the Dynotune and found the bloody thing was over 45% lean. This was due to the self learn mode not being completed so the loop was open. I took it off the power supply and reinstalled it and let it run again and the car runs awesome now.

After letting it go like that for about two months we hooked it up to the Dynotune sensor again and did a rolling test, mainly due to lack of a dyno to test on here and slowly tweaked the parameters until the car was perfect. Now I am going to boost it with a custom turbo setup, and hope I can run low psi at least say 8-10 and use the same AFR to run stoich rich. Once stage 1 is done then I will proceed to stage 2 with a better cooling systems and send the ECU for a reprogram. Finally stage 3 will be the performance cams and possible ITBs.

And yes Honda's engine blow like the mofo, you're better of with a Nissan SR16VE or SR20VE, trust me I have worked on both! :alc:

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Yeah, SR16VE rocks :blink:

BTW, porky, where are u based?

Hi Pericles,

Yup the Nissan's make hardier engines any day, simply look at their Silvia (spec r), Skylines and 350zs and then compare to Honda's ....best...what the NSX? It maxes out stock at 160mph.

Machang I am at Horton Place, Colombo, Sri Lanka.

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Hi Pericles,

Yup the Nissan's make hardier engines any day, simply look at their Silvia (spec r), Skylines and 350zs and then compare to Honda's ....best...what the NSX? It maxes out stock at 160mph.

Machang I am at Horton Place, Colombo, Sri Lanka.

hmmm now I have a rough idea of who you are :D will continue this discussion later in the day.. have to get to work or else I will be :blink:

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