Ek3 Vs Es8

[SpEeD FrEak]

s1 and s2 driving options availble in virs and its d and s in a VI. please see the below article from vtec asia.

Honda programmed the Multimatic ECU to generally emulate the characteristic of the standard automatic gearbox for normal driving. When the the throttle is gently squeezed, the gearbox bites and the car moves off, gradually gaining speed while engine rpm slowly climbs. However, engine rpm will only climb to a certain rpm and will thereafter remain steady at that rpm. For most people, this will usually be ~2500rpm. The car will steadily - and not too slowly in fact - keep accelerating right up to around 90 - 100kph. Indeed for relaxed driving, one can be running the engine at no more than ~2500rpm all day and still be accelerating briskly, cruise around at speeds of up to 100kph, even overtake !

Multmatic Mode Selector Knob

'E' is for Economy

'D' (the dot) for Drive and

'S' is for Sports

A huge change comes during "performance driving". Honda equipped their Multimatics with three driving modes of E(conomy), D(rive), and S(port), selectable via a knob on the gearbox console. The main difference between the three modes is how high the rpms will climb at WOT and part-throttle. For best performance, obviously one should immediately switch the knob to 'S' mode.

Drive the 3-stage VTEC D15B with a Multimatic gearbox. Cruise leisurely at 90kph and when you need to overtake the car in front quickly, simply flick the dial to 'S' and floor the throttle. Engine rpm shoots up almost instanteously while the car's speed remains at around 90kph. This is the "clutch slip" phenomena of MMT that is much talked about. Once the engine's rpm reaches ~7000rpm, it stays there and the car now lurches forward, accelerating at a comparatively wild pace. 160kph quickly comes up on the speedometer with seemingly little or no effort. The engine may be 'only' 1.5l in displacement but with VTEC screaming in full glory at 130ps (for the 3-stage VTEC D15B), traditional concerns like "power band" or "flat point in the power curve" becomes totally irrevelant.

What actually happens at WOT with the Multimatic gearbox is the engine rpm surges up straight to the engine's max power point. Multimatic box slips the gear-ratio so that the engine revs pass all rpms below 7000rpm without driving the car much. The car's inertia and mass has little or no effect on the rpm climb because the car hardly changes speed, the gearbox acting like a flexible "rubber-band" that allows the engine to change rpm at will without little change to the speed of the car - almost as if the gearbox was running in neutral !! Once the engine rpm reaches ~7000rpm only then will Multimatic engage and transfer drive to the front wheels. This means at WOT, the engine hardly has to contend with pulling the car while at lower rpms - and lower power. It only starts to pull the car after it is screaming at 7000rpm and is delivering 130ps in its full glory

[kaushama]

Well it seems quite difficult to find a good VI RS 2000 with manual gears. Hope someone here can help me.

What are the things should I specifically look for to see it is a well maintained trouble free car, if I find either manual or auto VIRS?

[evergreen]

Well it seems quite difficult to find a good VI RS 2000 with manual gears. Hope someone here can help me.

What are the things should I specifically look for to see it is a well maintained trouble free car, if I find either manual or auto VIRS?

yeah..its pretty difficult to find a manual virs. i searched almost 4 months and couldnt find a manual one. finally i had to settle with a manual vi.

[KI4120]

yeah..its pretty difficult to find a manual virs. i searched almost 4 months and couldnt find a manual one. finally i had to settle with a manual vi.

Bro now u ride a Vi ? wohooo....good..good and its a manual.....dont tell me its dat WINE RED color with gold badges...was @ HSBC wattala....LMAO...

[Rebel]

Bro now u ride a Vi ? wohooo....good..good and its a manual.....dont tell me its dat WINE RED color with gold badges...was @ HSBC wattala....LMAO...

Why're you LYAO?? Whats the story with the car

[evergreen]

Bro now u ride a Vi ? wohooo....good..good and its a manual.....dont tell me its dat WINE RED color with gold badges...was @ HSBC wattala....LMAO...

hey hey...not that one.... but for your information i went to see that too. and its not in wattala hsbc anymore. she has moved to nawala hsbc.

mine too is wine red with H number with factory fitted spoiler etc etc... i enjoy the ride than my prievious CVT i would say.

[Rebel]

Now I'm curious about this 'car'!!

[evergreen]

Now I'm curious about this 'car'!!

hey hey not me. Pasindu might know something... i only saw the car. not the owner..

[da coolest]

s1 and s2 driving options availble in virs and its d and s in a VI. please see the below article from vtec asia.

Honda programmed the Multimatic ECU to generally emulate the characteristic of the standard automatic gearbox for normal driving. When the the throttle is gently squeezed, the gearbox bites and the car moves off, gradually gaining speed while engine rpm slowly climbs. However, engine rpm will only climb to a certain rpm and will thereafter remain steady at that rpm. For most people, this will usually be ~2500rpm. The car will steadily - and not too slowly in fact - keep accelerating right up to around 90 - 100kph. Indeed for relaxed driving, one can be running the engine at no more than ~2500rpm all day and still be accelerating briskly, cruise around at speeds of up to 100kph, even overtake !

Multmatic Mode Selector Knob

'E' is for Economy

'D' (the dot) for Drive and

'S' is for Sports

A huge change comes during "performance driving". Honda equipped their Multimatics with three driving modes of E(conomy), D(rive), and S(port), selectable via a knob on the gearbox console. The main difference between the three modes is how high the rpms will climb at WOT and part-throttle. For best performance, obviously one should immediately switch the knob to 'S' mode.

Drive the 3-stage VTEC D15B with a Multimatic gearbox. Cruise leisurely at 90kph and when you need to overtake the car in front quickly, simply flick the dial to 'S' and floor the throttle. Engine rpm shoots up almost instanteously while the car's speed remains at around 90kph. This is the "clutch slip" phenomena of MMT that is much talked about. Once the engine's rpm reaches ~7000rpm, it stays there and the car now lurches forward, accelerating at a comparatively wild pace. 160kph quickly comes up on the speedometer with seemingly little or no effort. The engine may be 'only' 1.5l in displacement but with VTEC screaming in full glory at 130ps (for the 3-stage VTEC D15B), traditional concerns like "power band" or "flat point in the power curve" becomes totally irrevelant.

What actually happens at WOT with the Multimatic gearbox is the engine rpm surges up straight to the engine's max power point. Multimatic box slips the gear-ratio so that the engine revs pass all rpms below 7000rpm without driving the car much. The car's inertia and mass has little or no effect on the rpm climb because the car hardly changes speed, the gearbox acting like a flexible "rubber-band" that allows the engine to change rpm at will without little change to the speed of the car - almost as if the gearbox was running in neutral !! Once the engine rpm reaches ~7000rpm only then will Multimatic engage and transfer drive to the front wheels. This means at WOT, the engine hardly has to contend with pulling the car while at lower rpms - and lower power. It only starts to pull the car after it is screaming at 7000rpm and is delivering 130ps in its full glory

very nice reply.

one of my friends got an ES automatic civic and i had an EK3. the ES seems to better on handling, option and performance. even its automatic, the car has very good performance. recent YOM is a plus.

btw, EK3s (standard car) were available for something around 1.3M and I have seen some special versions of the EK3s being advertising even above 1.9M! performance wise, most of them are still running the 1.5L engine and the only difference one can find out would be the v-tec. (correct me if im wrong). And also some people are trying to sell their cars with body kits at the same price range. as i believe, paying such a huge amount for a small difference is pointless. I suggest you get the standard v-tec ek3 (or EXI) if the EK3 is the choice.

[evergreen]

very nice reply.

one of my friends got an ES automatic civic and i had an EK3. the ES seems to better on handling, option and performance. even its automatic, the car has very good performance. recent YOM is a plus.

btw, EK3s (standard car) were available for something around 1.3M and I have seen some special versions of the EK3s being advertising even above 1.9M! performance wise, most of them are still running the 1.5L engine and the only difference one can find out would be the v-tec. (correct me if im wrong). And also some people are trying to sell their cars with body kits at the same price range. as i believe, paying such a huge amount for a small difference is pointless. I suggest you get the standard v-tec ek3 (or EXI) if the EK3 is the choice.

in sri lankan context the registration number carries a huge wieght..what is availble for 1.3 is mostly old number plates...any english number irrespective of vtec or not goes above 15. but again anything over 20 lacks is not acceptable i would say...

[kaushama]

very nice reply.

one of my friends got an ES automatic civic and i had an EK3. the ES seems to better on handling, option and performance. even its automatic, the car has very good performance. recent YOM is a plus.

btw, EK3s (standard car) were available for something around 1.3M and I have seen some special versions of the EK3s being advertising even above 1.9M! performance wise, most of them are still running the 1.5L engine and the only difference one can find out would be the v-tec. (correct me if im wrong). And also some people are trying to sell their cars with body kits at the same price range. as i believe, paying such a huge amount for a small difference is pointless. I suggest you get the standard v-tec ek3 (or EXI) if the EK3 is the choice.

After having searched in the market for two weeks I quite agree ion this. It is very hard to find a Vi or VIRS with English numbers. Many of them are over-valued as well. Perhaps best to go for a ES08 2000-2003. Or perhaps 2000 EK3 Manual with VTEC.

I have seen ES8 RS versions too. What are the special features?

[kaushama]

RS8 2002 recon RS with VTEC goes around for 2.6 mill +++ now? Please help!

Suddenly all second hand cars seems to be selling for higher prices!

Why?

Should I wait fot another few months till budget comes out?

[MkX]

RS8 2002 recon RS with VTEC goes around for 2.6 mill +++ now? Please help!

Suddenly all second hand cars seems to be selling for higher prices!

Why?

Should I wait fot another few months till budget comes out?

ES series price will range from 2.2M - 2.6/7M or more while VTEC goes at higher bracket.

Yes there is sudden inrease in 2nd hand market but only god knows why. I don't believe the rumored tax reduction will have major impact on the 2nd hand market as the gap is so much high between brand new , used imports and 2nd hand market. It is less likely people who look in 2nd hand market (1M - 3M price range) can afford to buy recon import or brand new even after tax reductions. Unless you can increase your budget around 1M - 1.5M minimum. But again in you are in 1M - 2M range still don't think there will be vahicles (brand new/recon) will fall in below 4M range.

So if you wait few more months yes there can be possible recution in price about 1 - 2 lks maximum. But again depending on the condition of the vehicle a good ES will always carry 2 , 3 laks above the average price in the market IMO.

Edited April 26, 2010 by MkX

[kaushama]

ES series price will range from 2.2M - 2.6/7M or more while VTEC goes at higher bracket.

Yes there is sudden inrease in 2nd hand market but only god knows why. I don't believe the rumored tax reduction will have major impact on the 2nd hand market as the gap is so much high between brand new , used imports and 2nd hand market. It is less likely people who look in 2nd hand market (1M - 3M price range) can afford to buy recon import or brand new even after tax reductions. Unless you can increase your budget around 1M - 1.5M minimum. But again in you are in 1M - 2M range still don't think there will be vahicles (brand new/recon) will fall in below 4M range.

So if you wait few more months yes there can be possible recution in price about 1 - 2 lks maximum. But again depending on the condition of the vehicle a good ES will always carry 2 , 3 laks above the average price in the market IMO.

Thank you. I was under the impression that face-lift ES8 goes above 2.5 mil and the earleir version goes for max 2.4-2.5 mil. But suddenly within week or two they quote 2.6-2.7 for 2002 ES8.

This is for K series.

I do not mind paying 2 or 3 lks for a good condition ES8. But I do not like to pay this additional amount if it is created by car sale owners artificially.

[PHP]

YOM will be a matter once you need to sell the car. it will be better if you can buy something new. finding spare parts for honda isn`t easy if you are not living around colombo. anyway I also recommend es-8.(YOM 2004 at least). bcz you will use this for another few years. 

[kusumsiri]

@PHP Welcome to the forum. It seems you are interest of EK3 / ES8. But, did you notice that the thread is around 7 years old ?

[Rohan Sameera]

Hii, 

Honda CIVIC EK3 

Mitshubishi Galant 

Peugeot 406

Mazda bj5p

 

Can you please tell what is the best car among those vehicals when considering performance, safety, handling, reliability..... 

[iRage]

Really cannot comment on the reliability because in old vehicles the reliability is dependent on how well the car was taken care of by the previous owners.

I have never driven a P 406 so will not say anything about it.

Performance...well..it depends on your definition of performance....overall I prefer the Civic EK series..as it has decent handling and a nice feel to it, how quick it would be will depend on the engine you get...but for the most part it is pretty good.  The Mazda and Galant are somewhat the same but different. The Galant with its larger engine does move a little bit better than the Mazda(albeit not by that much as most in SL are base econo box variants). The Mazda on the other hand is little nimbler.

Safety wise...well again..more or less the same and is dependant on the variant you get as some variants came with dual airbags, ABS, etc..but some did not.

[matroska]

18 hours ago, Rohan Sameera said:

Hii, 

Honda CIVIC EK3 

Mitshubishi Galant 

Peugeot 406

Mazda bj5p

 

Can you please tell what is the best car among those vehicals when considering performance, safety, handling, reliability..... 

I have no idea about the 406 but I'd say a BJ5P would be a good bet - since they're very durable and relatively cheaper and simple A-B cars. The Gallant is a comfy old beast but the car is not that frequently found you'll have to spend some time  looking for one.  As much as I'm a Honda fan I'd not really consider the EK3 since most of them have been abused by goraka ricers ( clueless folk who watch a FnF movie, play a bit of NFS and buy a civic with 'pinaas' and hack it to death, dangle hideous bits of plastic and post pics on Facebook saying ''api yakku bolaw' etc. for their similarly retarded friends to comment 'ftt wndiya mcn'  If you ever buy a Civic avoid anything older than an ES series cos 90% of them are now hacked and abused. )