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Question

Hey!

There’s been a couple of posts asking members how efficient various vehicles are on fuel. And with the prices going up by Rs.8/= and with news in the air that it will go up again by another Rs.3/= soon, its getting even more important…

So what do you say we post the following details

Vehicle :

Transmission Type :

Engine Capacity :

Fuel :

Km per Ltr (city/long distance) :

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Seriously????

I feel sorry for your car and your passengers

maybe they enjoy a hot and bumpy ride...

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You guys didn't get it. Actually he meant AC is Off.

I'm not sure about that J, but generally when you set to 30C doesn't the heater starts? (unless the inside temperature is higher inside). Otherwise could have mention A/C Off right? :speechless-smiley-004:

Edited by kmeeg

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Car: Nissan FB15

Year : 2000

Engine Capacity : 1.5L

Fuel : 92 octane petrol

Transmission : Auto

Fuel Economy

Colombo city : 8-9kmpl

Highway : 12-13kmpl (At 80kmph)

Outstation - Upcountry : 9-10kmpl

Outstation - Flat roads : 11-13kmpl

Tyre pressure : 35psi

Tyre air type : Normal

Driving strategy : Light acceleration, moderate speeds & Air conditioning at 30C .

As the others have already pointed out, your tyre pressure is way too high. It should be somewhere around 28 - 30. While you might be saving a few cents off fuel, you are wearing out the suspension of your car faster - that's a repair that will cost you far more than what you will be saving on fuel. Also, your tyres will wear out much faster. You might want to consider all that and inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure. It should be printed on and attached to the B pillar of your car - driver's side.

As for the AC, I don't think I have the right to decide what's the right temperature for you, but I believe 30C is way beyond the comfort zone of an average human being. Plus, you might want to try and wrap your head around this to determine if you are really saving money on AC:

If your AC is manual, and if you have your temperature dial set a bit towards the warm side from the "max cold" position, the AC is still working the exact same way to how it would work if you set the dial to "max cold". Most manual AC systems reduce the cold by activating the heater and mixing the hot and cold air so that the air reaches a "less cold" temperature. Again, this is on most manual AC systems and I believe it's the same case for you as well. If this is the case, your passengers (and you) are suffocating for no actual gain.

Edited by Davy
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I guess he has a climate control AC system, (If the car is a Super Saloon) Otherwise he couldn't have known the set temperature. In that case the compressor should be disengaged most of the time.

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As the others have already pointed out, your tyre pressure is way too high. It should be somewhere around 28 - 30. While you might be saving a few cents off fuel, you are wearing out the suspension of your car faster - that's a repair that will cost you far more than what you will be saving on fuel. Also, your tyres will wear out much faster. You might want to consider all that and inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure. It should be printed on and attached to the B pillar of your car - driver's side.

As for the AC, I don't think I have the right to decide what's the right temperature for you, but I believe 30C is way beyond the comfort zone of an average human being. Plus, you might want to try and wrap your head around this to determine if you are really saving money on AC:

If your AC is manual, and if you have your temperature dial set a bit towards the warm side from the "max cold" position, the AC is still working the exact same way to how it would work if you set the dial to "max cold". Most manual AC systems reduce the cold by activating the heater and mixing the hot and cold air so that the air reaches a "less cold" temperature. Again, this is on most manual AC systems and I believe it's the same case for you as well. If this is the case, your passengers (and you) are suffocating for no actual gain.

I keep the air pressure at 32, is it ok. the reason I don't keep the air pressure at 28-30 is thinking that it will result in even less ground clearance.

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As the others have already pointed out, your tyre pressure is way too high. It should be somewhere around 28 - 30. While you might be saving a few cents off fuel, you are wearing out the suspension of your car faster - that's a repair that will cost you far more than what you will be saving on fuel. Also, your tyres will wear out much faster. You might want to consider all that and inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure. It should be printed on and attached to the B pillar of your car - driver's side.

As for the AC, I don't think I have the right to decide what's the right temperature for you, but I believe 30C is way beyond the comfort zone of an average human being. Plus, you might want to try and wrap your head around this to determine if you are really saving money on AC:

If your AC is manual, and if you have your temperature dial set a bit towards the warm side from the "max cold" position, the AC is still working the exact same way to how it would work if you set the dial to "max cold". Most manual AC systems reduce the cold by activating the heater and mixing the hot and cold air so that the air reaches a "less cold" temperature. Again, this is on most manual AC systems and I believe it's the same case for you as well. If this is the case, your passengers (and you) are suffocating for no actual gain.

Well i dont know what type of AC he has but there is a very common issue in the fb15/n16/y11 series cars with auto climate control (not the ac unit with the dials but the one with push button and green colour indicators on top). The temperature is not properly calibrated on these, on cars with this unit even if you set it to 30c it's still cold as hell. IE at 30 the heater doesn't enguage and 30 feels more like 24c. And 30 is the lowest you can go.

This might actually be the reason.

Edit -

This model

https://img03.carview.co.jp/trade/img06/cars/540015/15379835/japan%20car/2002+nissan+sunny/09.jpg

Edited by The Stig

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Well i dont know what type of AC he has but there is a very common issue in the fb15/n16/y11 series cars with auto climate control (not the ac unit with the dials but the one with push button and green colour indicators on top). The temperature is not properly calibrated on these, on cars with this unit even if you set it to 30c it's still cold as hell. IE at 30 the heater doesn't enguage and 30 feels more like 24c. And 30 is the lowest you can go.

This might actually be the reason.

:D Really? That just might be it then!

I keep the air pressure at 32, is it ok. the reason I don't keep the air pressure at 28-30 is thinking that it will result in even less ground clearance.

Depends on the manufacturer specification for your car. What does the information card on the B pillar say? And are you running on the stock rim size and tyre size? I really doubt that 2 - 3PSI is going to give you significant ground clearance.

Edited by Davy

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Well i dont know what type of AC he has but there is a very common issue in the fb15/n16/y11 series cars with auto climate control (not the ac unit with the dials but the one with push button and green colour indicators on top). The temperature is not properly calibrated on these, on cars with this unit even if you set it to 30c it's still cold as hell. IE at 30 the heater doesn't enguage and 30 feels more like 24c. And 30 is the lowest you can go.

This might actually be the reason.

Edit -

This model

https://img03.carview.co.jp/trade/img06/cars/540015/15379835/japan%20car/2002+nissan+sunny/09.jpg

What you mention here is a classic symptom of blocking the heater core by our maka basses I guess.

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Vehicle : Toyota Hiace KDH 206( automatic AWD)
Transmission Type : Automatic
Engine Capacity : 3000cc VG Turbo
Fuel : Super Diesel
Fuel Economy;

City : 7-8km/l with A/C mostly on eco mode without turbo kicking in

Out Station(flat roads) : 10km/l, heavy footed driving with dual A/C and 5 people on-board

Edited by Magnum

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ey guys im thinking about to buy a toyoto HARRIER jeep which were registered in year 2000-2002 with the budget of 25laks....since i do not have any previous experience in suv jeep, ur most welcome for the comments...or any other suv jeep within that budget............

01) about the fuel consumption

02) condition

03) spare parts

04) Manual or Auto

05) Engine capacity

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Vehicle : Nissan N 17
Transmission Type : Manual
Engine Capacity : 1300 CC
Fuel : Petrol with Soltron
Km per Ltr (city/long distance) :
10-11/13-14

Vehicle : GWM Voleex C10

Transmission Type : Auto/CVT
Engine Capacity :1500 CC
Fuel : Petrol-95
Km per Ltr (city/long distance) :
11-13/15-16

Vehicle : Toyota Prius 3rd Gen 2013

Transmission Type : Auto
Engine Capacity : 1800 CC
Fuel : Petrol/EV
Km per Ltr (city/long distance) : 29.1

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Vehicle : Toyota Hilux Vigo

Transmission Type : Manual
Engine Capacity : 3000 CC VN Turbo
Fuel : Super Diesel
Km per Ltr (city/long distance) :
10-11/13-14

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Vehicle :Toyota Vitz(SCP10)

Year :2001

Transmission Type :Auto

Engine Capacity :1000 CC

Fuel :95 octane petrol

Km per Ltr CITY :12-15kmpl

OUT :18-21kmpl

Edited by osanda19

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Vehicle :HONDA FIT(GP5)

Year :2014

Transmission Type :Auto

Engine Capacity :1500 CC

Fuel :95 octane petrol

Km per Ltr CITY :15-19kmpl

OUT :24-31kmpl

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Vehicle :SUZUKI EVERY(DA64V)

Year :2010

Transmission Type :MANUAL

Engine Capacity :660 CC

Fuel :95 octane petrol

Km per Ltr CITY :10-13kmpl

OUT :15-18kmpl

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Vehicle :Toyota Corolla(NZE 121)

Year :2004

Transmission Type :Auto

Engine Capacity :1500 CC

Fuel :95 octane petrol

Km per Ltr CITY :10-13kmpl

OUT :16-20kmpl

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Vehicle :Toyota Allion(260)

Year :2007

Transmission Type :Auto

Engine Capacity :1500 CC

Fuel :95 octane perol

Km per Ltr CITY :7-10kmpl

OUT :11-13kmpl

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Vehicle : Honda CR-V 2013 


Transmission Type : Automatic 


Engine Capacity : 2000CC


Fuel Type : 95 Octane


Km per Ltr (city/long distance) : 6Km/L-7Km/L city & 12Km/L-13Km/L outstation

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Vehicle: 2014 Mazda 6 2.0 L

Transmission : 6 Speed Auto

Engine Capacity : 2000CC I4

Fuel: 95 Octane

Consumption : City - 7.5-10 KM/L (depending on driver), Highway - 12.5-13 KM/L (Not very light footed driving)

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Vehicle: 2004 BMW E46

Transmission : Manual

Engine Capacity : 2000CC 4 pot

Fuel: 95 Octane

Consumption : City - 7-8 KM/L (in heavy traffic and with AC of course), Outstation - 10-12 KM/L (throttle happy) Highway - Yet to calculate

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Vehicle: 2011 Hyundai Elantra

Transmission : Auto

Engine Capacity : 1600cc

Fuel: 95 Octane

Consumption: City - 7-8 km/l (in heavy traffic with climate control on), Outstation - 14-15 km/l (As indicated on trip computer) Actual combined cycle hits somewhere around 11-12 km/l. I never topped up immediately after a long distance trip to get the exact value. Usually the trip computer value is around 1km/l optimistic than the actual.

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Vehicle: 1996 Fiat Bravo MK1

Transmission : 5 Speed Manual

Engine Capacity : 1400cc 12v

Fuel: 95 Octane

Consumption : City - 5.5 - 9 KM/L (depending on the driver and also the fuel needle placement), Highway - above 10 km/l

all figures are not light footed driving

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TOYOTA AXIO 2016 G GRADE Hybrid

1500 CC

25 to 27km/L

Approx speed 40-80

Edited by AdeZ

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TOYOTA AXIO 2016 G GRADE Hybrid

1500 CC

Long distance 30Km/L

Normal 25Km/L<

Still mileage below 1000..

Approx speed 50>

Out of curiosity, how many wheels does your 'car' have? Does it have the following badge in addition to the Axio and hybrid synergy drive badges?

Bajaj.jpg

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