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Any Motorcycle Fans Here?


Mani

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He Mani

Give us a holler in advance...i'm sure we can sort something out quite easily :)

Made some biker friends in another local web forum and i'm sure they will help us out :)

pradfred

you don't own a silver P11 by any chance do you? I've met another friend online who uses the german spello thing quite well :lol:

on the chillium ride...i'm game bro... only hitch is that swimming is a no go...at least not beyond 6ft depths :lol:

we can ride somewhere to like hikka on unawatuna if we want to keep the distance short...park and have a few beers... chill in the water to get the booze out of the system and ride back :) what more can a man ask for eh :lol:

Lets plan to ride.

Unawatuna it is then

When , and who else will join?

BTW where can I get one of them air in a can thingies? ya know the emergency air to inflate tryes etc

I am in Nuwara eliya for Mahagastotte and free after that so let do this.

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Lets plan to ride.

Unawatuna it is then

When , and who else will join?

BTW where can I get one of them air in a can thingies? ya know the emergency air to inflate tryes etc

I am in Nuwara eliya for Mahagastotte and free after that so let do this.

You get those at Keels and Arpico super centres...

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey hey hey

Am back! Now let's do the ride eh?

Ripper you the man.

Get some like minded riders and let's get it on!

just to make you feel bad :)

I'm going out for the holidays with 2 buddies on a ride...

we're leaving early morning 11th Friday...3am to be exact...riding straight to haputale...and spend the day riding around the area....

planning on heading to devil's staircase and spending the night at world's end lodge... finally we'll head to sinharaja, do some riding there and get back to colombo on the 15th :)

should be fun :) especially if i can find a raincoat that does the job right :lol:

for our day trip...sadly i don't know that many biker dudes anymore :) out of the few i know the hardcore fellas are only interested in multi-day trips the others see riding as just commuting :(

so we'll have to find another one or two on AL :) Anybody out there interested to join an XR and a CBR for a day trip?

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I have a small issue with my new XR250,

i think my old DT200 is better than this,i mean this Xr dose not have any low end or top end,not much torque in bottom end,and the fastest i've ever hone is up to 100kmph

is it due to the fact that it has a 42T rear sprocket and a 510.18 rear tyre?

the stock muffler is open,no quiet insert in it,so there should be a bit torque than the stock isn't it?

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I have a small issue with my new XR250,

i think my old DT200 is better than this,i mean this Xr dose not have any low end or top end,not much torque in bottom end,and the fastest i've ever hone is up to 100kmph

is it due to the fact that it has a 42T rear sprocket and a 510.18 rear tyre?

the stock muffler is open,no quiet insert in it,so there should be a bit torque than the stock isn't it?

42T is stock if i'm not wrong so i doubt that's the case for lack of performance...50,52+ are only larger sprockets...

I've also had 510 at the back and it doesn't affect speed that much... then again XR's are never about top end speed and if that's what you were looking for the XR is a wrong bike choice

"the stock muffler is open,no quiet insert in it,so there should be a bit torque than the stock isn't it?"

this is complete bull..whoever told you this go and bitch slap that bugger.

4 stroke motors need certain amount of back pressure and once you de-restrict your pipe too much you're cutting down on the low end torque for a lil bit of top end performance...

i would check the air filter, sparkplugs...it should be CR9EH-9, check the spark gap, check the carb is the previous owner had chosen better economy over good performance.

some fellows change the jets to smaller sizes for better fuel figures

if all these fails check your clutch and try an oil change. fully syn oils meant for cars messes up bike clutch plates

good luck

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well after i gave it a good carb, air filter cleanup and a tuneup from my garage it had a bit more torque...yes i know i cant expect the top end from a 4 stroke but its the laking bottom is what im more worried about..

and from my search on the net i fount couple of results saying that 48T is the stock,so now im quiet confused..

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well after i gave it a good carb, air filter cleanup and a tuneup from my garage it had a bit more torque...yes i know i cant expect the top end from a 4 stroke but its the laking bottom is what im more worried about..

and from my search on the net i fount couple of results saying that 48T is the stock,so now im quiet confused..

If your airfilter visually looks bad...chances are that an air hosing job won't clean it properly. this is me assuming you're on the stock paper filter.

best bet is to replace the air filter if you think it's not in good shape. It's a little pricey but worth it... I think last time i bought one was for 3k or 4k...genuine honda stuff.

Is the bike smoking? XR's can't smoke at all...

If you check your plug...it's gotta be in a nice brown tan color... if it's white grayish...you're fuel mixture is too lean and the motor is running hot.. performance might be dropped a bit...

if the plug is oily with black soot deposits etc... you're in a bit of trouble with possibly a compression issue...worn piston, non sealing valve guides etc etc

The XR's we get to SL are from Japan...i know! DUH!!!

But most web results you get for XR's are for the US model. JDM spec XR and US XR's are very different.

US XR is more powerful if i'm not wrong cos even the diameters of their exhausts pipe is larger than that of the JDM model. So possibly the 48T might've been for the US model and not the JDM model...

Still it doesn't explain your power problem :unsure:

when you say the low end and the top end is bad... what exactly is the scene? do feel the motor is stuttering and failing to rev up nicely? is the firing abrupt?

Or do feel the motor is revving perfectly and smoothly but the bike fails to achieve proper acceleration?

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"motor is revving perfectly and smoothly but the bike fails to achieve proper acceleration" (i think) this is the scenario,and it has a small fluctuation in rpm when in idle...

well about the top end and the bottom end-In the top end im only able to reach a maximum of 100kmph in the road in front of "kala bhawana"stretch(i remember you mentioning you were able to reach speeds of 130kmph on yours),and in the bottom end, it dose not even lift the bike off the ground at least one inch (i know i bought a bike not a plane but still :P ) ,i know XR's renowned for their beastly torque,even my homey had a old analog meter XR which i had to think twice before i get on to it cos of its power

plus theres a small fuel issue in it i think cos in my bike when i first cold start it and drives for about 2-5kms,when the engine is heated up(oil temp meter in the frame indicates 125c)i cant go in the traffic cos the engine stops unless if i don't keep on revving or i ride really fast...my garage dude said that the previous dude had cleaned the air filter with petrol,and that it is wrong to do that(i have the stock air filter[paper])

plus theres a tiny oil mark in the middle gasket in the head,garage dude also said that even the tiniest leak of compression is enough to bring the bikes power down... :blink:

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"motor is revving perfectly and smoothly but the bike fails to achieve proper acceleration" (i think) this is the scenario,and it has a small fluctuation in rpm when in idle...

well about the top end and the bottom end-In the top end im only able to reach a maximum of 100kmph in the road in front of "kala bhawana"stretch(i remember you mentioning you were able to reach speeds of 130kmph on yours),and in the bottom end, it dose not even lift the bike off the ground at least one inch (i know i bought a bike not a plane but still :P ) ,i know XR's renowned for their beastly torque,even my homey had a old analog meter XR which i had to think twice before i get on to it cos of its power

plus theres a small fuel issue in it i think cos in my bike when i first cold start it and drives for about 2-5kms,when the engine is heated up(oil temp meter in the frame indicates 125c)i cant go in the traffic cos the engine stops unless if i don't keep on revving or i ride really fast...my garage dude said that the previous dude had cleaned the air filter with petrol,and that it is wrong to do that(i have the stock air filter[paper])

plus theres a tiny oil mark in the middle gasket in the head,garage dude also said that even the tiniest leak of compression is enough to bring the bikes power down... :blink:

sounds like you've got yourself an XR in not so good shape.

pulling wheelies on an XR is no biggie :) I don't do it that much now cos i've done complete 180 on my MTX and after so many wheelies i even had to replace the main drive shaft...

the stock motor if put together to be as bullet proof as it can be. The Xr's have been winning the Baja1000 back to back cos these things don't breakdown at all.

if you're having an oil leak most probably somebody has done some top-end work on the motor. the cylinder head is made of aluminium alloy...if you remove the cover when the motor is warm it might get warped and wont seal properly... and also if there has been a top end job done locally they might've re-used the old gasket kit since new ones are not available in SL... maybe the gaskets haven't sealed properly...

XR's don't heat up and die like that...especially with the dry sump motor design the frame helps to cool down oil... i've ridden none stop to N'eliya on my first ride without a hitch...

maybe your mechanic is right and it's leaking compression... don't know how to explain but leaking motors always get very hot pretty fast.

start the bike up cold and spray some soapy water around the head gasket to see if air is getting blown out....

and also check and replace the oil filter if the previous owner has been an utter ass at taking care of a bike. Washing the air filter with petrol takes stupidity to a new level in my opinion...

I think it's better you replace both filters, add new oil, new spark plug properly gapped before getting into anything serious cos those few things alone can keep your XR from doing what it does best :)

good luck :)

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just to make you feel bad :)

I'm going out for the holidays with 2 buddies on a ride...

we're leaving early morning 11th Friday...3am to be exact...riding straight to haputale...and spend the day riding around the area....

planning on heading to devil's staircase and spending the night at world's end lodge... finally we'll head to sinharaja, do some riding there and get back to colombo on the 15th :)

should be fun :) especially if i can find a raincoat that does the job right :lol:

for our day trip...sadly i don't know that many biker dudes anymore :) out of the few i know the hardcore fellas are only interested in multi-day trips the others see riding as just commuting :(

so we'll have to find another one or two on AL :) Anybody out there interested to join an XR and a CBR for a day trip?

AAAAARGGGGHHHH, :violent-smiley-047:

You got me nice and mad now.

Need to get a trail bike soon, I see the mail below this I see Spindoct has a DT 200....

hint hint :rolleyes:

ok ok Rippster, c mon back and lets meet up.

I can bring my 70 cc Honda Chally to do off roading :laughing-smiley-007:

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he he...sorry mate...wasn't visiting AL in a while and din't see this thread...

if going for a trail bike i'd say go for a 4 stroke...even an older XLR is way better than a 2-smoke bike IMHO :)

returned from the 5 day trip last tuesday with lotsa great memories to cherish for years to come :)

riding in rain and in pitch dark conditions made me wanting to convert my headlight to an HID race spec one... they are a lil pricey but t's way better than going off a cliff cos you can't spot the road/track properly...

I also need a new rear shock cos the bugger is too soft for serious riding.... in the process of getting it checked out to see if adjustments and tweeking can sort it out or it needs a replacement...

I'll be uploading most of the pics to FB very soon so if ya in FB...you can check em out :)

as far as the chaly thing... my buddies are planning a trip to hikka on chappies and challies :lol: if you like to join i can keep you posted on it's progress...

but gotta warn you...my buddies are lil wild and mad buggers when it comes to fooling around and partying etc :)

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Ridin to hikka on challies and chappies man you guys are nuts....

And not much will be left of those either lol :)sure you guys are into S and M too lol

No thanks will wait till we do a proper bike ride mate...

BTW wild parties bring em on.....we can hang with da best...

Went looking for old trail bikes and saw a vw in need of rescue......MMMMMM

When can we do bike trip? (The battery's dead again gotta call anil..hoo boy....

So ripster get charged up and let's ride...did you see the movie ghost rider on satellite tv?

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Ridin to hikka on challies and chappies man you guys are nuts....

And not much will be left of those either lol :)sure you guys are into S and M too lol

No thanks will wait till we do a proper bike ride mate...

BTW wild parties bring em on.....we can hang with da best...

Went looking for old trail bikes and saw a vw in need of rescue......MMMMMM

When can we do bike trip? (The battery's dead again gotta call anil..hoo boy....

So ripster get charged up and let's ride...did you see the movie ghost rider on satellite tv?

Ghost rider? yep...i watched it yesterday morning on HBO i think. I've always liked that bugger from school days when marvel was quite a big it in colombo colleges.

on the chaly thing...i think you can try your best and reach about 60kmph on those so Hikka is no problems at all :lol: Don't have one of those meself but i'm sure my friends can source one for me so the moment they get their stuff sorted... i'll be on route to hiks on 50cc hondas :lol:

talking about VW's...was watching skeleton key on tv and there was a nice VW driven by nice chic :) I'd love to have one of those as a project but at the moment i'm swamped with too many things in life, too little time and money :cry:

On our riding trip... think it'll be only the CBR and the XR :)

I'm putting my XR for full overhaul before my next adventure bike trip since the the rear shock has got too soft and she's puffing out a bit of smoke... thought of going for a wiseco forged piston and some other goodies for the motor, HID race light from Bajadesigns etc etc but can hit hikka with you without any of those without a hitch :) And those mods will take some time to get done too :(

I'm going to hikka with a few friends on the vesak weekend... idea is to get there in one piece with enough booze...get plastered...chill and drive back :lol:

let me know when your free on a weekend after the end of this month and i should be good to ride :)

for faster responses you can mail me on [email protected] or call me on 07175171057

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I'm going to hikka with a few friends on the vesak weekend... idea is to get there in one piece with enough booze...get plastered...chill and drive back :lol:

let me know when your free on a weekend after the end of this month and i should be good to ride :)

for faster responses you can mail me on [email protected] or call me on 07175171057

Ah finally - ok ok ditch the chally.... cant ride at 60 KMPh.....

CBR battery dead - remember the flow.....oh well I gave it for charging today...so will take her for a spin hopefully tomorrow.

yup, sounds good, the first weekend in May ? 3rd / 4th?

lets plan and doi this .......

On the VW - I read you man. I went and saw a VW for sale - in bits and pieces......tempted but there's also a Yamaha 650 cc Jet ski ...on the shopping list at da moment so will probably go for dat....ridin that really puts you in a good mood.

ridin and getting wet....mmmmmmmm

fallin off's easier on the buttocks too..... <_<

Plan and lets get plastered.

cheers

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Can Any one tell me the standard Tire size for XR250R (1999) JDM,Front and Rear

Plus im thinking of putting a new Chain Sprocket set so i also want to know the standard stock sprocket sizes

If i go for a O-Ring Chain will i be not able to take out 9shorten0 the chain?

With the WISECO piston and ring set dose it need any other parts to be replaced...?9since its liter than the normal piston)

and i need the input on these...specially the part "GRINDING THE WELDED HEADER INLET"

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MY MODIFICATIONS TO A 2000 MODEL HONDA XR400R

(Revised: Nov 25, 2000)

-----------------

Stock Carb Specs

-----------------

Main 142, Pilot #52, Needle Clip in 3rd groove. Right off the

showroom floor, mine ran fine, but definitely on the rich side.

Removing the airbox snorkel without re-jetting, however, made

it run lean and overheat.

-----------------------------------------------

RELIEVING THE 2000 HONDA XR400R MUFFLER BAFFLE

-----------------------------------------------

(This is a very simple procedure, and one that can be almost

as easily reversed. Best of all, though... it works.)

After carefully examining the stock baffle/spark arrestor,

and running some flow numbers for the different areas

involved with the numerous plates and baffles (both in the

muffler and on the baffle insert), I've come to the

conclusion that the primary restriction to exhaust flow is

the small final outlet, which has an i.d. (inner diameter)

of only 20mm. Without removing the baffle insert from the

muffler, examine the exhaust tip. Notice the actual outlet,

which measures 20mm i.d. (approx. 0.787"). Around this is

a larger 'bright finish' ring which appears to have no real

function, but may be to help prevent the rider from coming

into contact with the actual outlet, which probably runs

hotter. Down in between the 20mm outlet and the bright-finish

outer ring, there is room to drill 1/4" holes into the baffle

to provide additional exhaust flow area. Holes drilled in

this area will be 'inside' the spark arrestor screen, by the

way, so the spark arrestor function is maintained.

On my baffle insert, the area to be drilled is large enough

to accept a 1/4" drill, but there's a benefit to using a #2

drill bit (0.21") (or maybe a 7/32" bit) which I'll explain

a little later on.

Since the stock 20mm (0.787") outlet provides a flow area

of only 0.4862 sq.in., and a 0.21" hole has a flow area of

0.0346 sq. in., each 0.21' hole adds 7.1% more flow area.

Just three such holes will increase the exhaust flow area

by over 21%, and four will increase it by over 28%.

First I ran the engine with the undrilled baffle, to get an

up-close feel for the sound level at idle, and while revving

the engine. After drilling one hole, I could barely hear any

difference. After drilling a second hole, I could hear the

difference, but it was slight. The third hole made a bigger

difference, but still not objectionaably loud. The fourth

hole made it just a little louder than I was willing to accept,

adding a definite bark to the exhaust note. Since I had use a

#2 drill bit, which is approx 0.21" in diameter (it's supposed

to be 0.221"), I was able to plug the 4th hole very simply by

screwing in a 1/4x28 set screw, which I woudn't be able to do

had I drilled the holes with a 1/4" bit. This effectively

reverted back to having just three holes, and it also indicates

that I can plug them all with 1/4x28 set screws, to return to

the stock sound level if necessary. Come to think of it, I

guess you could say that this modification is "tunable" by

inserting or removing set-screws from numerous holes.

A brief test ride with stock jetting showed that the added three

holes gave the bike a cleaner and stronger throttle response,

probably because it runs rich when totally stock. It was now

running cleaner, so the added 21.3% flow area was beneficial,

and it had cost me nothing but a little time. It's also totally

reversible by plugging the holes with set-screws.

It is NOT necessary to remove the insert when drilling each hole.

The metal chips will fall either outside the muffler, or into the

screened area of the spark arrestor. Once you have drilled the

desired number of holes, you can then remove the insert and shake

out the tiny pieces if you so desire. If you don't, they will

eventually fly out the exhaust outlet anyway, since the spark

arrestor screen prevents them from falling down inside the main

muffler.

---------------------------------

GRINDING THE WELDED HEADER INLET

grndweld.jpg

---------------------------------

I'd read about the header inlets being partially shut off by the

welding that builds up when welding the 1" i.d. header pipes to

the clamping flanges, so I examined mine. Simply loosen the

clamp bolt where the header pipes assembly slides into the

muffler, and then loosen and remove the four nuts (two per pipe)

where the headers are clamped to the head. The muffler bolt and

all four clamp nuts accept a 12mm socket. Then the header pipes

assembly slides forward and into your hands.

On mine, a 2000 model, the built-up welded area in each pipe was

terrible! The remaining opening measured a rough 0.75", leaving

a flow area of only 0.44 sq.in. A 1" i.d. pipe has a flow area

of 0.78 sq.in, so the welding left only 58% of that! I started

grinding down the built-up welds using small grinding stones in

my Dremel Moto-tool, but that was too slow. I went to the hardware

store and bought some inexpensive coarse grinding stones to fit my

3/8" drill, and one 1" ball stone for finishing. I spent over two

hours grinding away. As a "size guide", I chose an 18mm socket that

has an outer diameter of 0.944" (different brands will vary in size,

of course). Once the 18mm socket would slide into the header pipe,

I quit, not wanting to remove too much of the weld, and weaken the

joint. I then used the 1" ball grinding stone to finish up. Since

the stone itself wears away faster than the weld material, I ground

a little on each pipe, going back and forth between the two, until

enough of the stone wore away to fit into the opening. This final

touch didn't really make either opening larger, but it did make

them both about the same size and shape.

Since I started with a 0.75" opening, which had a flow area of

only 0.44 sq.in., and finished with a 0.944" opening, which has

a flow area of 0.670 sq.in., I achieved a gain of more than 52.5%.

In one afternoon I significantly improved the flow characteristics

of the stock exhaust system, and my total investment was under $10

(for some cheap grinding stones and one 1/4x28 set screw). I

already had the 3/8" electric drill and #2 drill bit.

------------------

AIR INTAKE SYSTEM

------------------

I removed the air box snorkel, and then used a scrap of aluminum

window screen to cover the opening to keep out trash and clumps

of mud. I then removed the stock air filter and support, the latter

of which includes the backfire screen. Noting that the backfire

screen consists of two layers of screen, between which are trapped

two more layers (actually a flattened screen 'tube'), I carefully

cut away only the outer layer of screen, and removed the trapped

inner piece, leaving only one, the inner layer, of the original

four-layers of screen. I happen to like foam air filters, so I'm

sticking with the stock filter for now. (I later bought a TwinAir

filter, but with the backfire screen modified, I see no performance

difference between the TwinAir and the stock air filter. If I

were using a louder and more free-flowing exhaust, perhaps the

TwinAir filter would make a difference.)

NOTE: Cutting the metal screen is a chore, and it's difficult to

get rid of every tiny little piece of wire (from the screen) you

cut, so I no longer recommend cutting the stock backfire screen.

Intsead, buy a UniFilter air filter for the XR400R. It comes

with a screenless air filter support, and a less restrictive air

filter.

Despite what I read elsewhere, it is NOT necessary to move or

remove the subframe to remove the carburetor! After removing the

seat and gas tank, I simply loosened the two clamps holding the

carb to the airbox duct and intake manifold, then loosened and

removed the three bolts holding the intake manifold to the head.

By turning the intake manifold a little CCW first, the carb and

intake manifold then slide easily out the left side. After

removing the carb from the intake manifold, I examined the

composite rubber & plastic intake manifold. I do not think it

was necessary, nor do I think I gained anything from it, but

I used my Dremel Moto-tool with a medium size sanding drum to

clean up the few ridges found inside. Just couldn't resist!

-------------------------

JETTING CHANGES REQUIRED

-------------------------

After two days of trial and error jetting (and a few hours more

since then), I came to find that the exact same jetting recommended

by CYCLE NEWS (several years ago) worked best. I'm using a 160 main

jet, a #60 pilot jet, and the triple-tapered carb needle that comes

standard in the 1998 and later XR400R's, with the needle clip in the

stock (3rd groove) position. My altitude is approx 700' above sea

level, and I ride regularly up to 3200', where it still seems to

work just fine. I've also replaced the 15t drive sprocket with a 14t.

For the terrain where I ride, the stock gearing is a bit too high.

Depending on your particular machine, you might prefer a 158 main

jet is using a stock or modified stock exhaust. If using a louder

and nmore free flowing exhaust pipe, or the 1996-97 spark arrestor

without the muffler insert, you'll want to use either a 160 or 162

main jet.

--------

RESULTS

--------

How my XR400R might compare to a differently modified version, I

don't know. All I do know is that it easily pulls away from an

unmodified 1999 model, and that I am able to pull up the front

wheel at will in any of the first 3 gears. It is a little louder

than stock, but not as loud as a KLX300 with its muffler tip

removed, and it is nowhere near as loud as an XR or WR 400 with

the muffler insert removed altogether. It's more than I need for

woods riding, but without being 'difficult' to ride.

-----------------------------------

XR400R Spark Arrestor/Muffler Note

-----------------------------------

The 1996/97 XR400R has a two-piece exhaust pipe insert. The

removable spark arrestor has a removable muffler insert. With the

muffler insert in place, the exhaust is very quiet and very

restricted. With the muffler insert removed, the spark arrestor

alone has an open outlet nearly 1.5" in diameter, so it makes

really good power, but is also pretty loud. The 1998/01 spark

arrestor insert has the small 0.787" outlet which serves as the

combined spark arrestor and muffler, all in one piece. It has more

restriction than the 1996/97 spark arrestor alone, but more

restriction than the 1996/97 spark arrestor with the muffler insert.

Both of the two different spark arrestors fit all years of the

XR400R's exhaust pipe (three small bolts).

Gordon Banks

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Gordon mods are the cheapest bang for the buck...

take off the air box snorkel...some prefer to drill holes on the top the box too...

header grinding should be done carefully cos if you remove too much material the joint will obviously be weaker and fail...

you can modify the stock exhaust by removing the baffle or go for after market with proper jetting of the carb... without jetting none of these mods will give you good results...

In my little experience O-ring chains are pain in the a$$ since you need a proper chain breaker tool to break/fix it if and when it fails...chances of getting the bloody thing fixed when you're way out from civilization is quite remote so i'm using normal heavy duty 520 DID chain...

And to answer your question yes you can shorten O-ring chains though the process is really tough without the chain breaker tool

sprockets... i'l check the manual and get back to you... the bloody thing is at home

stock front tire is 300x21 and the rear is 460x18... these however are dependent on what use you want out of the bike... If i'm going on road trip with lotsa boggy terrain i'd be happier with a rear 510 over the stock 460

on the Wiseco..i'm not 100% sure on this but i doubt that you need any major mods just to replace the piston cos the little power you might get will only be in a certain RPM range and it won't take any additional mechanical mods to handle that.. If at all the flywheel might need modifications to it...

Not too sure on this though...

On most of the mods...my 2 cents is that you don't need lotsa modding to do 99% of the riding you do unless you're into competitions... And also a 250cc can only go so far...

And you gotta be a great rider to harness the 5% or so powergain you get outta all this modding...

For street riding and to commute you don't need many mods cos you will hardly ever harness those

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I've Herd that 510/18 can be too heavy for the rear mono shock and that the bike looses its handling due to the over size tyre

i also herd that the big tire companies do not produce 510/18,only the Chinese and Koreans do...is there any truth in it...do you really loose the handling.... :unsure:

I need that original silent insert badly...its too loud for me..and im sensing that the lack of power is due to that...if any one could help me out...it will be great...

Oh i almost forgot...im repairing broken digital speedometers..so if any of you guys have them...just let me know...

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I've Herd that 510/18 can be too heavy for the rear mono shock and that the bike looses its handling due to the over size tyre

i also herd that the big tire companies do not produce 510/18,only the Chinese and Koreans do...is there any truth in it...do you really loose the handling.... :unsure:

I need that original silent insert badly...its too loud for me..and im sensing that the lack of power is due to that...if any one could help me out...it will be great...

Oh i almost forgot...im repairing broken digital speedometers..so if any of you guys have them...just let me know...

that all crap mate... big time MX tire folks make way much bigger tires than the 510 :) Agree "road handling" will be impaired to a degree but XR's were never meant to rule the road...

The wider the tire you got...better the traction you're gonna get... and traction is everything when you're not on roads :lol:

But if you're only into city riding and commuting on paved roads...stay away from larger tires... they will only make you burn a bit more gas...

Yes larger tyres do affect the life span of ya rear shock but that's when you gotta think how you're gonna use the bike for what etc etc and do what's best for your needs and not follow the herd... I for example have two tire sets i alternate... one set is only for trips that takes me on bad roads or on really rocky/muddy terrain... and another set for more road oriented riding...

My shock needs a replacing but after 5 years of good fun and touchwood no major falls...i'm a happy man :)

And another practical reason that you don't see big tires from bigger brand names is that it cost a $hit load of money so most people will settle for a larger and cheaper brand.

For your pipe...you won't find a silent insert here in SL...you can get a used factory pipe from Maligawatta area... or else you can either order a new silent insert online or get an after market pipe online... www.xrsonly.com had the silent insert(tip) for sale sometime ago... check www.ballards.cc he's bigtime XR man in down under

aftermarket pipes sometime goes quite cheap on ebay too... i was watching auctions for months before i got a good deal on one...

Digi Speedo... well sometimes you can't fix these things. Only replacement. When i bought my XR from the sale the speedo they had on it didn't work so i got them to remove the meter from a Baja they had and hook it up to mine. I'm assuming that any decent electronics fella should be able to fix this if it's fixable. There's a chap in hendala called chaminda, aka CDI chaminda... the bugger is good with electronics so i'm pretty sure someone like that can fix it...

since you seem to be on performance most of the time... If you really need to get the best out of that bike...

start with the gordon mods, replace the stock air filter with a UNI filter and don't get K&N cos they suck,

Go for a big bore kit like a 280 or something with a high compression wiseco piston, connecting rod and bearings,

Get stage 1 hot cams if you want low end torque or stage 2 for high end speed, compliment the hot cams by getting stiffer springs for the valves and a high rev CDI,

throw away the stock carby and go for a Mikuni pumper carb and a full exhaust system,

Go for the CR9EH9 plug or equivalent in the iridium range

get a new stock clutch kit with heavy duty racing springs, install an aftermarket oil cooler to take off that excess heat generated by all the extra mods

If you want better handling get steering stabilizer, go for a stiffer spring for the rear mono

For better lighting power you can rewind the stator coil to put out more power and go for and HID or 100W halogen setup. bajadesigns.com offers both services

This would be my wishlist for my XR someday :angry-smiley-048:

http://img329.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sl271501lo0.jpg

btw...these are the kinda roads i like... actually i prefer them to be worse than this and this is where XR's truly shine... and you'd be happy to be the one standing with a fatter tire on ya bike.

My friend on this TTR raid downed his bike even with the 510 at the back...sadly it was worn a little and that's all it takes

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  • 2 weeks later...
cant see the imageshak image bro.......

that's weird cos i just clicked the link and it all loaded up a ok... but the image size is a bit on the high side

sl271501lo0.th.jpg

Edited by Ripper
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