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Became Honda Lover


ruwan67

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Dear friends,

Any how I bought a Honda fit aria though others not appreciate it. Yesterday I went to Kandy. Thanks for Honda it is the car for driving with high comfort and easy driving. Its manual and auto features help me to drive lot. When overtaking I switch from auto to manual and speed up quickly without increasing the rev (2000rpm). In the flat land I put the auto gear to sport mode WOW what a great pickup.

I always keep the fuel consumption meter mode and I cannot believe it, for up climbing 16km/l and down 18km/l. I became a Honda lover though Stafford spare part price is high.

Regards,

Ruwan

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Dear friends,

Any how I bought a Honda fit aria though others not appreciate it. Yesterday I went to Kandy. Thanks for Honda it is the car for driving with high comfort and easy driving. Its manual and auto features help me to drive lot. When overtaking I switch from auto to manual and speed up quickly without increasing the rev (2000rpm). In the flat land I put the auto gear to sport mode WOW what a great pickup.

I always keep the fuel consumption meter mode and I cannot believe it, for up climbing 16km/l and down 18km/l. I became a Honda lover though Stafford spare part price is high.

Regards,

Ruwan

good to hear, bro..

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Dear friends,

Any how I bought a Honda fit aria though others not appreciate it. Yesterday I went to Kandy. Thanks for Honda it is the car for driving with high comfort and easy driving. Its manual and auto features help me to drive lot. When overtaking I switch from auto to manual and speed up quickly without increasing the rev (2000rpm). In the flat land I put the auto gear to sport mode WOW what a great pickup.

I always keep the fuel consumption meter mode and I cannot believe it, for up climbing 16km/l and down 18km/l. I became a Honda lover though Stafford spare part price is high.

Regards,

Ruwan

good to hear, bro..

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Dear friends,

Any how I bought a Honda fit aria though others not appreciate it. Yesterday I went to Kandy. Thanks for Honda it is the car for driving with high comfort and easy driving. Its manual and auto features help me to drive lot. When overtaking I switch from auto to manual and speed up quickly without increasing the rev (2000rpm). In the flat land I put the auto gear to sport mode WOW what a great pickup.

I always keep the fuel consumption meter mode and I cannot believe it, for up climbing 16km/l and down 18km/l. I became a Honda lover though Stafford spare part price is high.

Regards,

Ruwan

those fuel figures sound very good, congrats

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Thank friends

The next attractive feature is Electronic Power Steering (EPS) . Normally I don’t like power steering because it want feel the backward load of the tires and do not much return the steering wheel when you loose the hand grip while accelerating after the bend. Wow this ESP, the mechatonics guys did well job, it does the same as the mechanical steering wheel (but not very tough feeling) . I think one expert can explain the mechanism. I think like racing car this car also has high tire rotation with respect to steering wheel and it can tern quickly. When I was tern the car to avoid hole in the road (60km/h) I haven’t seen the bus is coming and the driver gave big horn I so I tern the S wheel as much as possible it works well without tire sound and jerks.

Regards,

Ruwan

I will send the interior photos.

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Thank friends

The next attractive feature is Electronic Power Steering (EPS) . Normally I don’t like power steering because it want feel the backward load of the tires and do not much return the steering wheel when you loose the hand grip while accelerating after the bend. Wow this ESP, the mechatonics guys did well job, it does the same as the mechanical steering wheel (but not very tough feeling) . I think one expert can explain the mechanism. I think like racing car this car also has high tire rotation with respect to steering wheel and it can tern quickly. When I was tern the car to avoid hole in the road (60km/h) I haven’t seen the bus is coming and the driver gave big horn I so I tern the S wheel as much as possible it works well without tire sound and jerks.

Regards,

Ruwan

I will send the interior photos.

EPS system doesn't necessarily mean that its fully electronic with actuators and stuff. Basic EPS systems has a electronic motor driving the hydraulic pump rather than the engine driving the pump via a belt. The rest of the power steering system is the same. Fit being an economical car I would think it has basic EPS system, nothing fancy. It might well have an active power steering system though which will vary the response depending on the speed and steering angles..

Yes honda Fit is very economical thanks to its 7 speed CVT gearbox. I doubt the 5 speed manual is as efficient as the CVT..

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http://www.cityzen.sg/

above link is a good resource for ruwan. I drive a city idsi since mid 2005, but an indian assembled, without triptronic. But aria and city (indian) share most of key components.

Take a good care about the CVT box, cvt fliud change should be in about 30K intervals or earlier, not 40K or 50 K in our climate conditions. I still get your fuel consumption figures for long distances even at 40k in trip meter. But in ultra urban colombo, it's 10~11km/l .

I did not get a good comfort until I switched to bridgestone turanza (japaneese) tires. may be b'cos indian built quality.

good luck with aria !

(posted here after long time !!)

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http://www.cityzen.sg/

above link is a good resource for ruwan. I drive a city idsi since mid 2005, but an indian assembled, without triptronic. But aria and city (indian) share most of key components.

Take a good care about the CVT box, cvt fliud change should be in about 30K intervals or earlier, not 40K or 50 K in our climate conditions. I still get your fuel consumption figures for long distances even at 40k in trip meter. But in ultra urban colombo, it's 10~11km/l .

I did not get a good comfort until I switched to bridgestone turanza (japaneese) tires. may be b'cos indian built quality.

good luck with aria !

(posted here after long time !!)

Thanks Nozozo,

The car is 2005, made in Thailand and import to Japan,1.5, i-DSI,Michulin tires, 95 Octane

As per the tech instructions I thought it is 40k I do as yours. day before yesterday around 5.45AM I went to colombo from Ja-ela with zero traffic 60kmh 7speed auto the fuel economy is up to Paliyagoda 23k/l. I can you believe it or some thing wrong?.

Regards,

Ruwan

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Thanks Nozozo,

The car is 2005, made in Thailand and import to Japan,1.5, i-DSI,Michulin tires, 95 Octane

As per the tech instructions I thought it is 40k I do as yours. day before yesterday around 5.45AM I went to colombo from Ja-ela with zero traffic 60kmh 7speed auto the fuel economy is up to Paliyagoda 23k/l. I can you believe it or some thing wrong?.

Regards,

Ruwan

exactly how are you calculating fuel economy machan?

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Thanks Nozozo,

The car is 2005, made in Thailand and import to Japan,1.5, i-DSI,Michulin tires, 95 Octane

As per the tech instructions I thought it is 40k I do as yours. day before yesterday around 5.45AM I went to colombo from Ja-ela with zero traffic 60kmh 7speed auto the fuel economy is up to Paliyagoda 23k/l. I can you believe it or some thing wrong?.

Regards,

Ruwan

Dear Ruwan

Just to know would you please explain the way you measure the figure. From Ja-ela to Paliyagoda I think it may be around 20km. Anyway please update the forum how did u arrive this figure. Specially the number of fuel litters. Distance you get from the meter.

Regards

aswe

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Ruwan, you should not see any angular displacement in the fuel meter for that distance. Are you equipped with any electronic gadjet to measure that figure ? or if you refilled after your trip (should be almost 1 litre), this figure is not accurate !

FYI: do not try to measure fuel consumption by half tank mark without knowing the amount of litres to refill. Full tank to half, gauge displacement is slow, but in half to alarm light, it's fast. It's not something to do with amount of fuel in the tank but may be because of nature of the gauge installed in aria/city or shape of the tank. So you will get a reasonable figure if you calculate it by full tank or by refilling number of litres after reasonable Km's. I would say atleast more than 100Km.

I have heard, this car has shown FC above 20km/l, under "test conditions" in hundreds of km long highways in thailand. you can see more cruising figures in citizen forum, I guess in singapore, the best figure is 17Km/l in highways.

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Dear Ruwan

Just to know would you please explain the way you measure the figure. From Ja-ela to Paliyagoda I think it may be around 20km. Anyway please update the forum how did u arrive this figure. Specially the number of fuel litters. Distance you get from the meter.

Regards

aswe

Dear aswe

There is digital meter in the car which can indicate km/l, km(both can reset at any point) and unchangeable total km run up to now (37k km when I bought it).

Fuel was ¾ of tank shown by the level indicator. So I reset before the journey and the meter start with 9km/l and up counted.I start with normal auto (5 or 4 speed) and switch to 7 speed auto when I come to main road(400m). the RPM is 1500 for gear up to 4 and the designed gear change when the RPM reach to 2000. However I observe that from 5 to 6&7 want reach even 2000RPM so I change it manually to 6th and 7th (still the speed is close to 60kmh and 2000RPM), and hence speed reach to 60~65 and RPM was reduce to 1500. The same method was followed as there was few slow downs during the journey. During the journey I have not seen down movement of fuel level indicator. Unfortunately the 23km/l was reduced to 16.8km/l while crossing the city.

Any way I will check the Zozo proposed method to cross check the accuracy of the meter.

Regard,

Ruwan

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Dear aswe

There is digital meter in the car which can indicate km/l, km(both can reset at any point) and unchangeable total km run up to now (37k km when I bought it).

Fuel was ¾ of tank shown by the level indicator. So I reset before the journey and the meter start with 9km/l and up counted.I start with normal auto (5 or 4 speed) and switch to 7 speed auto when I come to main road(400m). the RPM is 1500 for gear up to 4 and the designed gear change when the RPM reach to 2000. However I observe that from 5 to 6&7 want reach even 2000RPM so I change it manually to 6th and 7th (still the speed is close to 60kmh and 2000RPM), and hence speed reach to 60~65 and RPM was reduce to 1500. The same method was followed as there was few slow downs during the journey. During the journey I have not seen down movement of fuel level indicator. Unfortunately the 23km/l was reduced to 16.8km/l while crossing the city.

Any way I will check the Zozo proposed method to cross check the accuracy of the meter.

Regard,

Ruwan

Hello Ruwan, the digital meter in ur car gives an instantaneous fuel consumption figure. Its not the average up to that particular time. But ur digital meter should have an option to check the average consumption as well. If u zero the trip counter b4 a journey and say travelled 100kms, then check the panel for Average km/L option. which will give u the overall consumption for that particular journey. I know through a friend of mine that a honda fit with CVT gearbox will do in the region of 16 to 18 km/L (average).

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We never did check, but I'm pretty sure Madz Corrola (CVT) did something like 20 last time we went to Tissa, coz we got to Tissa on slightly more than a quarter tank! Mind that was with me doing most of the driving, coz Madz drove back to Colombo and the meter was dropping like crazy :P

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Hello Ruwan, the digital meter in ur car gives an instantaneous fuel consumption figure. Its not the average up to that particular time. But ur digital meter should have an option to check the average consumption as well. If u zero the trip counter b4 a journey and say travelled 100kms, then check the panel for Average km/L option. which will give u the overall consumption for that particular journey. I know through a friend of mine that a honda fit with CVT gearbox will do in the region of 16 to 18 km/L (average).

Thanks Friends,

I found Fit page http://www.honda.co.jp/Fit-ARIA/

While observing the km/l meter it rapidly varying just after it set to zero and variations will be reduced when the km increased. Therefore it is working like 10/1=10, 20/1.8=11.1----- 100/8.5=11.7, 102/8.7=11.7 .and in the traffic 10/1=10-> 10/2=5 (travel distance is standstill while engine burn the fule) that means it does not show the average ((max+min)/2) but the fuel consumption at any distance traveled.

To rapid slowdown I reduce the gears manually while pushing the break similar to manual gear cars. I heard the same engine racing sound will it heat to gear box (this CVT) what is the best method?

Regards,

Ruwan

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EPS system doesn't necessarily mean that its fully electronic with actuators and stuff. Basic EPS systems has a electronic motor driving the hydraulic pump rather than the engine driving the pump via a belt. The rest of the power steering system is the same. Fit being an economical car I would think it has basic EPS system, nothing fancy. It might well have an active power steering system though which will vary the response depending on the speed and steering angles..

Yes honda Fit is very economical thanks to its 7 speed CVT gearbox. I doubt the 5 speed manual is as efficient as the CVT..

Dear Friends

I found why some of them got 10~11km/l. yester day I went to Jaela the figure was 10. I was shocked but finally found that my son change the AC setting to 25oC. So I change it again to 28 oC (three clicks from 25 ) and reach the 14.5km/l. I found another wonderful sensor is working while I was traveling from Jaela to Gampaha in rainy day slippery road with 55kmh the ESP (electronic stability program) So I slow down the car to40 and it switch off.

I red the article about CVT gears it has infinite gear ratios ( but depend on accuracy pulley positioning actuators) so it is no need to go for 7speed auto and useful for manual gear changes. As CVT is working, the V belt grips by static friction, I thing it is not good for gear controlled slow down. Better to use breaks because replacement cost is less. However careful when you remove the batter because it erase the data in the car computer and finally bad fuel consumption. Do not remove the earth wire! Same thing will happen and check the resistance if you see any corrosions because fuel will drop down due to earth wire. I think it is better to couple good one before remove it. It is same for all CVTs. If it erased go the agent for reload. Am I correct?

There are many EPS, but today the permanent magnet DC motor is coupled to steering rack so nor more hydraulic. I will check next time when it lifts.

Regards,

Regards,

Ruwan

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Hi ruwan, I guess you refer a thing like resetting ECU in the latter part of your second para. This can work both ways, sometimes to improve FC and other times to give bad FC. If you are using a second hand car, it takes some time for the ECU logics to adopt with your right leg behaviour from the earlier saved values. by resetting it, you leave a grace period for it to learn your driving pattern from a preset default values. During this period FC may be higher, but can stabilize after.

I am also in the learning track what really happens when an ECU is reset in a car having a CVT tranny. I guess CVT shifting(countinous displacement of pullys) memory in the ECU should also get reset and it again gradually learns from a default values. But some say we have to calibrate the CVT tranny. (there's a manual method can be found even in Vtec.net). I could not still find any statement from Honda engineers about CVT calibrations.

If you ask CVT calibration things from stafford, they'll ask you in return from where do you hear these stuff. They've never heard about CVT calibrations. I have done my ECU reset via the computer console at stafford once. FC was higher for the first tank, but from the second it improved almost 1km/l

Edited by Nozozo
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Hi ruwan, I guess you refer a thing like resetting ECU in the latter part of your second para. This can work both ways, sometimes to improve FC and other times to give bad FC. If you are using a second hand car, it takes some time for the ECU logics to adopt with your right leg behaviour from the earlier saved values. by resetting it, you leave a grace period for it to learn your driving pattern from a preset default values. During this period FC may be higher, but can stabilize after.

I am also in the learning track what really happens when an ECU is reset in a car having a CVT tranny. I guess CVT shifting(countinous displacement of pullys) memory in the ECU should also get reset and it again gradually learns from a default values. But some say we have to calibrate the CVT tranny. (there's a manual method can be found even in Vtec.net). I could not still find any statement from Honda engineers about CVT calibrations.

If you ask CVT calibration things from stafford, they'll ask you in return from where do you hear these stuff. They've never heard about CVT calibrations. I have done my ECU reset via the computer console at stafford once. FC was higher for the first tank, but from the second it improved almost 1km/l

Thanks Nozozo,

Do you know or any software so that we can jack our PC to car computer and comunicate or to see the data and program?. I think if so we can play and calibrate to get max performence.

Regards,

Ruwan

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Thanks Nozozo,

Do you know or any software so that we can jack our PC to car computer and comunicate or to see the data and program?. I think if so we can play and calibrate to get max performence.

Regards,

Ruwan

Such calibration and engine mapping should always be done by a professional as mistakes could serious damage your car.

There are quite a number of such softwares available on the internet, but a lot of them allow you to view the settings not change them,

Also modern cars are quite intelligent, the computers would be able to calibrate itself for maximum performance and fuel efficiency, and it does so while the car is running, so thus after a reset it needs a bit of time for the car to reprogram itself. one of the reasons this is important is the signals that the sensors that feed the information that the ecu needs to control the engine, will change over time as the sensors age, and the ecu is capable of compensating for these changes (as it is expected) also other components also start to behave slightly differently as they age (such as injectors, plugs etc) and the ECU again has to compensate for these issues, and it is capable of doing that.

When you reset an ecu it goes back to its default settings and thus it then needs time to learn all of the above, thus ECU resetting should really only be done if there has been a problem with the ECU itself.

I welcome your enthusiasm and I understand you are fascinated with your new car, but to a large extent the car is capable of taking care of itself, and also with modern day electronics that go in to these cars, its best to keep messing around to a minimum :) As time has passed there seems t be less and less we owners can do to our cars safely and by ourselves :)

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well said 'Don'

Ruwan, FYI: I only know about hondata (http://www.hondata.net) for these kind of modifications. But they do not support fit or jazz (http://www.hondata.com/wizard/wiz_start.html). If you request info from citizen or teamcity forum, they may give you some info. But I guess, getting done those things in SL may be nearly impossible to Fit/Aria by a professional.

I belive you can get the max out of your car when you drive on 'S' or by using triptronic effectively. That's the max for the amount of money you spent. My city is still in stock condition, no modifications done, not at least a CAI except for the stock tires which gave lot of noice. I did a resetting of ECU because mine was giving bad FC after one years of usage, but at agent's console.

Edited by Nozozo
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