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Croozer

Temp/heat Level Vs New Plugs

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Hi dudes,

Need a bit o' expert advice on some recent changes in my ride.

(Just to refresh the memory, mine's a 1300CC Colt Hatchback - Make 1987)

As some of you guys might remember I got the exhaust fan wired correctly with new thermostat & sensor & was was running on plugs which were meant to be used on a Vitara. Under this mode I did not see huge increase in the temparture gauge & rarely the temp gauge reached half enabling the exhaust fan to work.

About two weeks back I replaced the plugs with the correct ones (BKR5ES as I recall) & also replaced the engine oil. After that I have noticed that the temp gauge is rising up faster than before & the exhaust fan operates more frequently. This mainly happens during short runs like 2-3 km's & also when I park at home. (involves more use of reverse gear & the 1st gear)

Yesterday morning I drove to Moratuwa from Independance Sqr' at 3 am (non stop drive - No traffic) & to my surprise the temp indicator was consistently remaining around 1/4 of the gauge :unsure:

Will this issue have a direct link to the radiator ? Guess its high time that I get my radiator checked & cleaned.

Guys any advices, Comments or recommendations as to whats going on ?

Tks & Cheers B)

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IMO if your temperature gauge is under half, no need to worry.

The fact that your temperature guage rarely reaches half is a good sign that your cooling system is OK - you should also be careful that the temperature gage is not significantly under half - if the engine is running too cool, the oil may not heat up properly which could lead to general wear or engine damage. I'd suggest running at half or a little under half is a good sign, and 1/4th is low but ok for night driving - during day it should be slightly under half

Note, all of this is assuming your temperature guage is fine. The best way to check engine heat is to pop the hood after a long drive and examine the engine bay - carefully touch a radiator hose, or the engine oil cap - if they are pretty hot but you can touch them I'd say things are OK - particularly for this particular engine which runs moderately cool.

Also check the general engine bay temperature - (the blast of hot air you feel when you pop the hood) if its warm and toasty, no problem, if it burns your eyebrows right off, that would be worrying.

Assmuing you have the 4g15 engine,

(1.5 L4 4G15 FI Plugs - 12V & SOHC)

NGK Recommends the following plugs:

Standard BPR5ES-11 # 7634 .044

V-Power BPR5EY-11 6937 .044

G-Power BPR5EGP 7082 .044

Laser Platinum PGR5A-11 * 3573 .044

Iridium IX BPR5EIX-11 2115 .044

(can you confirm if your engine is 4g15?)

Note: for some 4g15 cars, NGK recommends 6 instead of 5, i.e. BPR6ES... etc if you are positive the plugs are increasing temperature a lot.

Here's an idea, why not remove one or two of the plugs and inspect them - the tip should give you an idea of whether the heat range/plugs are correct

You mention using BKR5ES, if I remember right the 'k' just means it has the smaller head/needs smaller plug box spanner to remove... other than that its same as BPR5ES above.

You can also see: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spar...rtnumberkey.pdf for a guide on NGK Part no's

Why don't you consider the "V Power/G power" plugs? They are a bit of fun. You can also consider Iridium but they are significantly more expensive..

Edited by Saturn

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IMO if your temperature gauge is under half, no need to worry.

The fact that your temperature guage rarely reaches half is a good sign that your cooling system is OK - you should also be careful that the temperature gage is not significantly under half - if the engine is running too cool, the oil may not heat up properly which could lead to general wear or engine damage. I'd suggest running at half or a little under half is a good sign, and 1/4th is low but ok for night driving - during day it should be slightly under half

Note, all of this is assuming your temperature guage is fine. The best way to check engine heat is to pop the hood after a long drive and examine the engine bay - carefully touch a radiator hose, or the engine oil cap - if they are pretty hot but you can touch them I'd say things are OK - particularly for this particular engine which runs moderately cool.

Also check the general engine bay temperature - (the blast of hot air you feel when you pop the hood) if its warm and toasty, no problem, if it burns your eyebrows right off, that would be worrying.

Assmuing you have the 4g15 engine,

(1.5 L4 4G15 FI Plugs - 12V & SOHC)

NGK Recommends the following plugs:

Standard BPR5ES-11 # 7634 .044

V-Power BPR5EY-11 6937 .044

G-Power BPR5EGP 7082 .044

Laser Platinum PGR5A-11 * 3573 .044

Iridium IX BPR5EIX-11 2115 .044

(can you confirm if your engine is 4g15?)

Note: for some 4g15 cars, NGK recommends 6 instead of 5, i.e. BPR6ES... etc if you are positive the plugs are increasing temperature a lot.

Here's an idea, why not remove one or two of the plugs and inspect them - the tip should give you an idea of whether the heat range/plugs are correct

You mention using BKR5ES, if I remember right the 'k' just means it has the smaller head/needs smaller plug box spanner to remove... other than that its same as BPR5ES above.

You can also see: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spar...rtnumberkey.pdf for a guide on NGK Part no's

Why don't you consider the "V Power/G power" plugs? They are a bit of fun. You can also consider Iridium but they are significantly more expensive..

HI Saturn,

Tks loads for your valuable info which cleared out many things.

I am happy to hear that running at half or a little under half is a good sign. Actually its what initially mad me worried. I was under the assumption that it should generally remain around 1/4. At present it often rises up faster & maintains around 1/2 or little lower & also activates the exhaust fan. I was also asuming that the fan should activate only under extreme heat situations (which I guess is wrong :unsure: )

I shall try out your suggested practical way of checking the heat (by opening the hood) & keep you updated on the feedback. Generally after a run, the hood itself is hot, is it normal or something to worry about ? (Pardon me with these kinda silly que's pls)

Can you pls educate me on how to examine whether mine's a 4g15 engine ?

I initially bought BPR6ES but realized that the head (which is used to fix the plug to the engine) is larger for my engine. So i had to use BPR5ES instead. (I guess it was BKR5ES) (I guess the guys @ Dougl*s & S*ns are not very familiar with there products as they couldn't properly advice me)

What are the advantages of V Power/G power" plugs ?

Anyways as per one of your previous comments I should get my radiator cooling diagnosed properly.

Tks again Saturn.

Cheers

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I'm happy to answer your questions!

Hood is usually somewhat warm in most cars, after a drive

I think your engine (from the photo) was a 4G15 - I'm not sure but the engine no should be 4g15-something also theres a panel somewhere in the engine bay/under hood?

Generally I am of the opinion that if the radiator is working fine might as well leave it be. Since it's rather delicate, especially hoses, if you allow mechanics to mess with it they could end up breaking something.. just a thought.. if you want you can replace the 'core' of the radiator for about 5k or more... but if its working OK, might as well leave it be.

V power/G power and Iridium plugs are supposed to have various advantages (particularly Iridium - they fire a bit better and more reliably, and use less energy than traditional plugs... ) - you can read about this online by searching on google...

Good luck with the car!

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Hi Evo,

tell us the first part of your engine number, its on the book, that will answer the riddle as to what your engine is,

Regards,

Abeetha

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:B)

Edited by EVO_Croozer

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Saturn, thank you for the information. I'll stick to your opinion & not mess around with the radiator. But what worries me is when I open up the radiator cap I see rust kinda stuff floating along with water :unsure: Will an average radiator guy can clean this (or flush ?) for me safely ?

Hey Don,

Tks loads bro, yep will check the book & keep you guys notified about my engine number.

Cheers :violent-smiley-030:

Not the whole number man just the starting few characters,

also I think your engine is probably a 4G13 not a 4G15 as according to your car domain page you have a 1300CC engine and to my understanding the 4G15 is a 1500cc engine

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Not the whole number man just the starting few characters,

also I think your engine is probably a 4G13 not a 4G15 as according to your car domain page you have a 1300CC engine and to my understanding the 4G15 is a 1500cc engine

Hey Don,

Sure bro will verify today & post the info tomorrow. (Anyways my previous owner told me its 1300CC & I'm continuing to mention that B) Is there any possibility that it might be different to my present actual CC, eg: like 1500CC ??? Any reliable way to find this out? In case a different engine being replaced ? (Just outa curiosity)

Cheers

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Hey Don,

Sure bro will verify today & post the info tomorrow. (Anyways my previous owner told me its 1300CC & I'm continuing to mention that B) Is there any possibility that it might be different to my present actual CC, eg: like 1500CC ??? Any reliable way to find this out? In case a different engine being replaced ? (Just outa curiosity)

Cheers

Your book will say the engine capacity (the vehicle log book) the engine number has the engine type on it, thus if you read the engine number off the engine it will tell you how big it is, it is unlikely thought your car has had an engine swap to a 1500cc but only way to be sure is that to see if the engine number on the engine matches the number on the log book

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Your book will say the engine capacity (the vehicle log book) the engine number has the engine type on it, thus if you read the engine number off the engine it will tell you how big it is, it is unlikely thought your car has had an engine swap to a 1500cc but only way to be sure is that to see if the engine number on the engine matches the number on the log book

Yep Don, its 4G13 B) which is mentioned in the book.

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Hi

The coolant temp on a car once warmed up should be around the half way mark in order for the engine to perform efficiently-I.E. achive the best combustion-Most cars have a thermostat-a vale controlling the coolant flow from the engine to the radiator for cooling-this will keep the hot coolant in the engine till it arrives at the optimum temperature then opens and allows the coolant to circulate through the radiator where the flow of air through it's fins cools the liquid on its way back to the engine. When the air flow is poor as when you are in stationary traffic the cooling fan switched on by a temperature controlled switch draws air through the radiator to cool the liquid. Your system appear to be working ok. The rust floating in the coolant(water) is a result of lack of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant-This is mostly present in anti freeze concentrate used in colder climes like where I am in (UK). This is good practice even in SL purely for its corrosion inhibiting abilities, keeping your radiator and your engine clean. Flush and refill the system with Distilled water and at least 1 liter of anti freeze to keep contamination at a minimum.

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Hi

The coolant temp on a car once warmed up should be around the half way mark in order for the engine to perform efficiently-I.E. achive the best combustion-Most cars have a thermostat-a vale controlling the coolant flow from the engine to the radiator for cooling-this will keep the hot coolant in the engine till it arrives at the optimum temperature then opens and allows the coolant to circulate through the radiator where the flow of air through it's fins cools the liquid on its way back to the engine. When the air flow is poor as when you are in stationary traffic the cooling fan switched on by a temperature controlled switch draws air through the radiator to cool the liquid. Your system appear to be working ok. The rust floating in the coolant(water) is a result of lack of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant-This is mostly present in anti freeze concentrate used in colder climes like where I am in (UK). This is good practice even in SL purely for its corrosion inhibiting abilities, keeping your radiator and your engine clean. Flush and refill the system with Distilled water and at least 1 liter of anti freeze to keep contamination at a minimum.

Hi maithri,

Thank you for the valuable comments.

Cheers

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