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Need Advice On Repairs + Modifications


Croozer

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ok let me give my 0.02... i might be wrong but here goes :)

1. i apply breaks first to slow the vehicle speed that matches the gear i'm gonna go down to and then shift down. There are time when i come down from the 5 to second or even first straight after braking appropriately...

2. ac problem is normal i guess on an older vehicle especially if the engine is not producing enough power for many reasons...

Steering vibration is not normal so there has to be some worn parts etc. needing to be replaced in that department. Get a mechanic to check it out

3. this is most probably due to bad spark plugs... they need to reach their proper operating temp to work best and as they get old...it takes a while for them get all heated up ;)

check the plugs and replace if necessary... and check if the plugs used are of the right temp range for your car.

4. can't really say without checking it out. sometimes what looks pretty simple needs a lot of work especially when it comes to aligning stuff

5. you have to practice to figure out that sweet point where the clutch is starting to slip and start to bite in. practice practice and practice... i don't use breaks unless i'm in a tight situ like another car just 2 inches behind me or a fully loaded car etc. where i would use the handbrake just to be safe :)

i'm sure others will give you better pointers since i'm also just a couple of weeks into this :)

cheers

R

Okay guys here I go wit the rest of the questions............

(Some may sound silly to you experts ;) so pls bear wi me)

1. Whats the most proper way to apply brake. Say if ur on the move on 4th gear & wanna brake, what i presently do is, assuming the target distance I shift gears ie to the 3rd & then to 2nd (based on the distance) & (when the vehicle slows) simultaneously apply the brakes. I understand by this way the control of the vehicle is more. But some say that the pressure is too much on the engine. I need proper advice on this guys..........

2. When I switch on the A/C i realize that the pulling power (hope I am using the correct term here :unsure: ) is bit reduced. Guys remember mine's a 14Sri B) & also i feel that that steering vibrates (something like shaking). Anyways I haven't still taken tha car to a good A/C man, pls lemme know if u guys have some good contacts.

3. usually if i start the vehicle after a break (say after about two days) initially during the first few minutes the engine sound is different. a bit noisy (I think its something like a 'mis' they call it when i accelarate) but after a few minutes of drive it becomes okay. During the drive with this situ, the vehicle won't pull as normal. Any comments on this guys?

4. As my car is old, there's a small gap of about 2 cm's on the rear buffer ie from the body. it is lower than the required level where it needs to be. Can a normal garage guy fix this or am I to attend to this when i do the main tinkering works?

5. Whats the most suitable & proper method of 'clutch balancing' on a petrol car ? Is it using brakes or vice versa ?

Well guys i guess these are enuf for the moment :lol: Shall revert back as & when i have more que's :lol:

Cheers

Shaz

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MrCat even on mine, i guess the radiator fan is connected to direct power as the sensor is gone.Cuz when i ON the switch a fan begins to work before i start the engine. Is it the same fan they call 'exaust fan' ???

Sorry guys for all these minor questions :unsure: as i am just beginning to learn the scene.

BTW is it harmful to the engine in this mode? (at least until a correct sensor is found)??

Cheers guys

Shaz

In many cars over ten years old, mechanics wire the fan to run full time. This could be because the temperature sensor/thermostat/relay is not working, or because the vehicle runs a bit hot.

You can continue to use like this but there is the danger the fan could fail (due to constant use). Generally the engine won't be harmed unless the constant fan is causing the radiator to overcool and preventing the engine reaching operating temperature (which is unlikely in Sri Lanka!!!)

Also these fans are designed ro run intermittently, so running it non stop could cause it to fail, which could cause the radiator to boil, and make engine overheat.

Best thing to do is get the thermostat and fan fixed properly to switch on when engine is hot, and use a separate relay (with a resistor bank) to have the fan run constantly at a low speed. This way fan will always run at 50% speed (so wont damage fan and will help keep radiator moderately cool), and if the temperature gets too high, fan will switch to full speed.

You can also get an extra fan fitted in front of radiator/condenser and drive it by a separate relay. You can buy a 12 inch diameter fan from Atco (along Stanley thillekaratne road) for under 2k, again PALA will fix the fan for you with a relay.

Having an extra fan (or fans) in front of your radiator/condensor will help cool the engine, and also help the A/C stay cooler.

Remember with an old engine be VERY CAREFUL OF OVERHEATING. a single overheating incident could cause head/head gasket failure!

Re: dashboard meters:

Sometimes the speedometer cable could have come loose/broken

also there could be electrical glitches/broken wires causing other things not to work

Best thing to do is drive the car anyday at around 9AM to Pala auto (along baseline road) and let them sort things out - their rates are decent and their work is top notch.

They can definitely sort out most of the glitches and get things going properly.

How is your engine temperature - is it at or below half? Don't rely on the meter which could be weak, see the actual engine/engine bay temperature (after a drive stop the car, pop the hood and take a look)

Good luck!

Edited by Saturn
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Okay guys here I go wit the rest of the questions............

>>>>I am not an expert but I will try to answer you as best I can

1. Whats the most proper way to apply brake. Say if ur on the move on 4th gear & wanna brake, what i presently do is, assuming the target distance I shift gears ie to the 3rd & then to 2nd (based on the distance) & (when the vehicle slows) simultaneously apply the brakes. I understand by this way the control of the vehicle is more. But some say that the pressure is too much on the engine. I need proper advice on this guys..........

>>>Be very careful when using the engine to slow the car. Don't use downshifting unless you are slowing down very gradually and even then be very careful.

I would suggest pressing the brake (on whatever gear you are on) and slowing the engine gradually to around 1000 rpm, then netural and continue further slowing with just the brake - true this will wear brake pads faster but it is safer for engine.

2. When I switch on the A/C i realize that the pulling power (hope I am using the correct term here :unsure: ) is bit reduced. Guys remember mine's a 14Sri B) & also i feel that that steering vibrates (something like shaking). Anyways I haven't still taken tha car to a good A/C man, pls lemme know if u guys have some good contacts.

>>>This is quite normal for most 4 cylinder non turbo cars the AC causes the vehicle to slow a bit. If the RPM gets too low, it could mean the A/C idle up does not work or is set too low.

If you notice this happening as you drive you can compensate by accelerating a bit more.

Both Atco and Pala are good for A/C work

ON A SOMEWHAT RELATED NOTE: Please ensure that your normal idle and A/C idle are above 900 rpm. I say this because for an old engine its best to have the idle a little high so the engine is not stressed. Also when driving make sure you dont dip below 900rpm.

3. usually if i start the vehicle after a break (say after about two days) initially during the first few minutes the engine sound is different. a bit noisy (I think its something like a 'mis' they call it when i accelarate) but after a few minutes of drive it becomes okay. During the drive with this situ, the vehicle won't pull as normal. Any comments on this guys?

>>If your plugs are old, an initial startup could cause one or two plugs to not fire 100%, till the engine warms up. You may be able to fix this by upgrading to better plugs (platinum/iridium etc)

>>>>I suggest you remove the plugs and check them before you start, if the tips are white don't worry but if they are brown/black consider replacing them.

Sometimes a minor oil leak in a cylinder could cause a plug to misfire till warm, if this is the case you would find a trace of oil on the plug.

TIP: BE CAREFUL removing/fixing plugs on older cars - don't over tighten as you run the risk of breaking the plug or thread which would mean you have to remove the head and get it re-sleeved. Not fun!

4. As my car is old, there's a small gap of about 2 cm's on the rear buffer ie from the body. it is lower than the required level where it needs to be. Can a normal garage guy fix this or am I to attend to this when i do the main tinkering works?

>>Actually my car has the same problem. Bump and go reversing on my part. It would be convenient for you to fix this when you do the tinkering. But check that the bumper is not falling off!!

5. Whats the most suitable & proper method of 'clutch balancing' on a petrol car ? Is it using brakes or vice versa ?

>>>Just don't clutch balance. It's not good for the clutch. If you have to stop on an incline,

1. press brake

2. neutral gear

3. engage hand-brake

(of course the hand brake must be properly working)

A lot of people like to clutch balance so you can pick off fast but this is stressful for the car/engine/transmission and also risky (if you slide backwards accidentally).

>>Like to hear the expert view on this question

I hope my answers were helpful and please ask any further questions you have?

Edited by Saturn
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Okay guys here I go wit the rest of the questions............

(Some may sound silly to you experts ;) so pls bear wi me)

4. As my car is old, there's a small gap of about 2 cm's on the rear buffer ie from the body. it is lower than the required level where it needs to be. Can a normal garage guy fix this or am I to attend to this when i do the main tinkering works?

Well guys i guess these are enuf for the moment :lol: Shall revert back as & when i have more que's :lol:

Cheers

Shaz

machang regarding this, even a new car would have this and even i had. The gap between the rear bumper and the body was not nicely even on the sides. For me the agents did the magic by removing the buffer and balancing it, but im sure the normal garage people are capable for this. And yes when you do the tinkering part you can do it and its better too

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Will give you very short answers.

1. Whats the most proper way to apply brake

Never use downshifting to brake the car.

2. When I switch on the A/C i realize that the pulling power (hope I am using the correct term here ) is bit reduced. Guys remember mine's a 14Sri & also i feel that that steering vibrates (something like shaking). Anyways I haven't still taken tha car to a good A/C man, pls lemme know if u guys have some good contacts.

When attending AC repair,ask technician to fix up the idle RPM up lines as well.do check the AC pully and compressor unit alignments after switching on.

3. usually if i start the vehicle after a break (say after about two days) initially during the first few minutes the engine sound is different. a bit noisy (I think its something like a 'mis' they call it when i accelarate) but after a few minutes of drive it becomes okay. During the drive with this situ, the vehicle won't pull as normal

Not sufficient fuel-air mixture.Less fuel supplied to cold engine.Possibly the previous owners wanted better consumption.This is a minor carb adjustment.

4. As my car is old, there's a small gap of about 2 cm's on the rear buffer ie from the body. it is lower than the required level where it needs to be. Can a normal garage guy fix this or am I to attend to this when i do the main tinkering works

If this is caused by the misalignment of the support brakets,can very easily raised by carefully jacking up.This is only raising.Closing the gap is bit complicated yet dont need an expert for that.

5. Whats the most suitable & proper method of 'clutch balancing' on a petrol car ? Is it using brakes or vice versa ?

Remember engine wont stall even when you raised the cluch few inches very gently when on brakes.Go to a flat clear ahead place and try this.You'll be suprised.Then next stage is releasing brakes when the cluch is slightly raised and applying gas.try this and practice your self.Good luck!

MINIACE

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Not sufficient fuel-air mixture.Less fuel supplied to cold engine.Possibly the previous owners wanted better consumption.This is a minor carb adjustment.

Yes, at the same time getting the Carb fully serviced is always a gud thing to do.. There can be blocks in the tiney jet holes and the carb packing mateirials also tend to get worn out with time causing vacume leaks etc.. Get the entire packing set replaced.. If u are unable to find a brand new packing set, there are ppl at Panchikawaththa who cuts them given the old one.. But mind u getting the carb fully disassembled and serviced should be done by an experienced person coz an ordanary mechanic might fail to do a really gud job..

I have heard about this one guy called "Carburetor Banda" who is an expert on Carbs. I`m not really sure where his workshop is, maybe somwhere in maradana.. Dat guy is quite famous so u might be able to find the place if u ask from someone at Panchikawaththa..

Cheers bro..

Edited by MrCat
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Hey Miniace,

Jst now only i saw yo reply man.

brilliant & very useful to me bro.........

Tks heaps & Cheers

Shaz

... In fact the dudes at AL are doing a wonderful job man :jumping-smiley-013:

Cheers

Shaz

Thanks bro! So you enjoy AL like we all do...this is one place you really get addicted :lol: once checked in ..thats for good!! :D

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Hey MrCat,

Tks a lot bro.

BTW guys, found out that this 'Carbureotor Banda' is no more in the scene & guess his son (not very sure) is continuing the bizz near Sugathadasa Stadium. In case any of you guys need his contacts, his name is Shantha 0777 317021. (I found these info thru another thread :P )

Cheers

Shaz

ahaa.. Is that so..? As for me the need never came up to go to that guy because one of my fathers good old friends serviced da carb for me.. :-) That uncle is a Mechanical engineer, but sure knows a lot about car engines through experience..

Anyways thanks for da info man, i also might need to go to this Shantha guy in future if anythin comes up in da carb again.. :unsure:

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Hey Saturn,

Great load o' info man, tks a zillion bro.

Tks loads for ur time & beleive me U've got a wonderful writing style man :jumping-smiley-013:

Machang to be frank I am unable to comment on my engine temperature (whether its at or below half) cuz I am still not familiar with the judgement of the heat . [Anyway my meter doesn't work :blink: ] But after a drive when i chk the engine, everything inside looks heated machang :unsure:

Anyway as u mentioned I beta take the machine to P*la for a complete diagnose of sensors. Ur note was very educative as I learnt many things, like the nature of the cooling fans, pricing, the relays, etc. etc.

I was a bit confused on the 'rpm' stuff related to ur A/C explanation :blink: may be I'll learn the stuff on the long run. I guesss I do not have the so called rpm meters on my car :o

Anyways Saturn, tks loads & have got so many questions in my mind which I'll throw gradually :lol:

Cheers

Shaz

Thanks for your kind words! I'm happy to help.

As far as Engine temperature goes, I would suggest this:

1. After a drive, pop the hood and very carefully touch the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. Also you can try very carefully touching the engine oil cap - also touch the body of the car/engine bay if body is warm not boiling hot then should be OK.

In your car the fan is running constantly which is not safe for the fan thats why if possible i suggest you get an extra fan fixed in front constant speed and get the main fan working with thermostat.

I would guess this would cost about

2000 (for fan)

1500 (for sensor if it has to be replaced)

about a 1000 for wiring/work?

Re: the vehicle not idling perfectly on startup I know 2 people here suggested clean the carb but I would suggest not to take apart the carb as it is a messy job and besides your car works OK anyway.

I think the initial rough startup before warmup is due to plugs not carb. You can test this by waiting till the engine is absolutely cold (next day, for example) and removing and cleaning all 4 plugs. Then start the engine you should see that it will run nicely even though its cold.

To clean plugs, you can use a few drops of petrol and a toothbrush. Some people use sandpaper but I think this is a bad idea as it wears the plugs. Just dip the plug tip in petrol and brush it with the toothbrush.

If you have not already done so do consider replacing with a new plug set. Plugs aren't too expensive (I think a new set would be under 2000) best plugs around are NGK - and you can pick them up anywhere.

Douglas and sons on darley road usually have reasonable prices, just show one of your existing plugs to them they can find the replacement. Also if possible consider Iridium plugs (they are more expensive about 1600 each but give very good mileage, performance and are more resistant to fouling).

Be very careful when fixing/removing plugs. I suggest you rub a little engine oil on the thread of the plug so it can be fixed/removed easily. Don't over-tighten plug.

As for clutch balancing I would say this if you are stopping on a hill e.g. for traffic light:

- Engage neutral gear with brake pedal and clutch, then put handbrake, release brake pedal (but make sure handbrake works well first)

- when you are ready to go, engage first gear, slowly release clutch till the vehicle seems to start pulling forward, then carefully release the handbrake.

I also suggest that (if you have not already done so) you get your brakes checked (pala can do it) - even if the brakes work OK its good to check front and rear, and replace anything necessary. (good for safety).

For the engine temperature does your car have the meter, if so I'm sure pala can fix it. maybe the wire is broken/loose (I think the temp is told via a small wire thats fixed into a sensor somewhere in your engine - perhaps near the TOP hose of the radiator. Its good to get the temperature meter working as you need to monitor engine temperature.

Im sure pala can sort out all the meters as their specialization is in electrical work.

Edited by Saturn
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Hey Hola,

Tks for u too man.... In fact the dudes at AL are doing a wonderful job man :jumping-smiley-013:

Cheers

Shaz

machang always glad to help. Would love to see the car pics like i said

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Re the fan, this is how i've understood the complete scenario, pls correct me if iam wrong. I'll request the guy to replace the sensor (of course upon checking) & then to fix the exisitng fan with a thermostat (is it the same as sensor ? :unsure: ) to run at 50% on idle mode, which will automatically get into normal operation (ie required fan speed) as & when needed. The 2nd fan to be fixed to run at full mode always for additional cooling. Have i got ur message clearly bro' :unsure:

Yes thats great! Though Pala may not be able to get the 50% thing going if they can fix the main fan to work with the sensor it would be great (they can do that easily) and they will replace any parts only if absolutely necessary. (they are quite good that way).

For the second fan you can get it fixed to run 100% and later on add a large resistor between... or well better yet keep it running 100% of the duration of your car being on, hopefully it should be OK.

(Fit the second fan in FRONT of radiator forcing air inwards, and get them to wire it to run when engine is on - you can get them to put a switch or something for it but best to have it running 100%)

How is your alternator and startermotor? You can get Pala to service them, it wont cost much (under 2000 each) but will ensure that both work well and give many years of reliable service.

I suggest get the second fan from ATCO as they have it for around 1,900 or so whereas Pala will charge more (they tend to charge a bit more for parts). Atco is the A/C shop along stanley thillekaratne road, you can get the fan there (just ask for the black plastic 12inch a/c fan).

Good luck with your car and please ask any question I will try to help

Edited by Saturn
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Another member in the forum adviced me to remove the wire from the sensor & connect to the vehicle body (earth o sumthing) to confirm whether the sensor is functioning or not. As per him if the meter is in working order it should indicate. but with my poor familiarity i couldn't identify the sensor :unsure:

aha, i think im da one who asked u to try and earth the sonsor wire to check the meter.. :D

thats ok buddy, u better not play around with wires if your not sure exactly which one to earth.. :P.. One thing u can do is, u can observe closely when u take the car to an auto electrical person.. Have a chat with the guy and ask him which one exactly da sensor is, so u`ll know nextime how to check it ur self and it`ll improve ur knowlege also..

Me also not really gud on car mechanics.. :D Just learnt some of these stuff out of trial and error and observing.. ;)

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Hey Saturn,

Tks a lot bro.

Today morning I checkd the meter panel. Yes it has a temperature meter (hope it is the meter with the indicator 'C' at lower & 'H' at top?) . Actually there are only 3 altogether, ie the fuel meter, sppedometer & the temperature meter ;)

Yes that does sound like the temperature meter

I guess my starter motor is fairly okay cuz so far haven't had any probs. even after a long break of few days the motor ignites perfectly. (May be I am wrong my assumption) anyway to verify whether its in proper condition??

Well if it starts very cleanly and easily without struggling then its probably fine. Pala can do a service for 1700 or so but you may want to wait as it seems OK?

What & where is the alternator? what the task of the alternator ??? pls brief me if possible..

Alternator acts like a dynamo and makes 12V DC to charge your battery (and provide electricity to all the various components when vehicle running). It is usually located quite close to the engine with a pulley driven by one of the belts..

I also checked the radiotor area bit more carefully. (actually along with all these info n all, its more intersting & educative to explore) Machang correct me if I am wrong ... usually are there are two radiators fixed near to each other (not oppsite to each other) :unsure: bcuz on mine there are two similar radiators (dont knw whether both are one or an extention of the radiator) fixed one near the other.... both have two seperate fans fixed. but only 1 lid to pour water.

I think the one with a lid is the radiator but other is the A/C condensor. Both are usually put close by. Very good to know that there are 2 fans. One would be for A/C and switch on when A/C is running. (you can try this to see)

I also saw many wires & small plugs just idling (may be automatically come out). So like u predicted may be there are loose connections or minor plug-ins which P*la can fix. Another member in the forum adviced me to remove the wire from the sensor & connect to the vehicle body (earth o sumthing) to confirm whether the sensor is functioning or not. As per him if the meter is in working order it should indicate. but with my poor familiarity i couldn't identify the sensor :unsure:

Thats OK pala will sort it out easily.

Anyways ur advice is very very useful to me & shall attend to them asap by taking the car to P*la.

I'm happy to be of help!

Saturn I've got sum more queries as well....

1. I just checked the engine oil today (after forum advices) to see that the oil color is totally black :( Any advice on this machang......

Well it could be that oil hasn't been changed recently. Just take car and request engine oil and filter be changed. You will need a can of oil (or can buy) I recommend Havoline - just buy a 4 liter one (it's under 2000) and get the oil filter (actually you can get that at the service station. Filter would cost about 300 - 500 (you can ask for VIC brand which is cheaper).

If it is still very black you can wait a month and change again. Could be previous owner didn't service too often..

2. usually when i remove the radiotor cap the water level is usually up & is ok, but on & off i have seen small rusty stuff floating. But i see the water level reduced by about 1 or 2 inches from the main water terminal (sorry bro i dont know the correct term)

Well water goes down sometimes, perhaps through tiny leaks. The most important thing is you should be using coolant (water should have a green color if coolant is there). you can get a mechanic to 'flush' the radiator which is to clean it out with water and then add coolant but this involves opening lower tap which must be done carefully.

3. What is RPM machang... rpm was very much quoted on my queries based on the a/c. As i do not have a rpm gauge do you think i should get one fixed ? Whats the benefit I will have ? How & where can I get one? remember I use the car only for personal purposes & not for drags & races ok :D

RPM is revolutions per minute - how fast your engine is spinning. From the sound you can have an idea but also a meter is useful. See if your car has the meter (it is just a stick and numbers from one up to six or seven with the last 1 or 2 numbers in red.

If your vehicle does not have rpm meter then you could get aftermarket one (I think) but not necessary.

Basically just listen to your engine on Idle and with A/c - it should sound healthy, if its slow and intermittent then RPM settings are a bit too low.

4. usually when iam on the 1st or 2nd gear, there's a funny noise from the silencer (NOT ALWAYS) something like knocking the silencer with a spoon :lol: my mechanic told me that this can be due to the high pressure on these gears & may the silencer is touching one of the holders with a loose gap :unsure:

Hmm not sure about that maybe someone here has an idea?

Pls lemme know if I am becoming a pain in the A** within the forums with my huge queries :violent-smiley-030:

Autolanka forums are to help people so you are most welcome to ask questions, I'm sure admins will agree on this one :)

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Hey MrCat,

Yeah machang it wuz you who gave me that advice :) On my inspection I found out a small gadget similar to a cylinder fixed inside the bonnet rear wall right oppsite to the steering (actually opposite the dashboard) I thought dis gotta be the sensor but didn't wanna take the risk ;)

Like u mentioned I beta not mess around until i gather some mo knowledge on these stuff.

actually AL is brilliant specially for a guy like me with zero knowlegde on wheels. usually when my mech does ANY work i hang around closely & observe & learn what eva i can absorb.

In fact Im beginning to learn many things gradually.......

Its all with the generous contribution of you guys.......

Tks MrCat :)

Cheers

Shaz

The small plugs and stuff idling is quite normal. Companies use the same wiring looms on a lot of models, so not every plug fits into something in every car, and if everything works then you should not worry too much

I think there are a few companies who does non chemical radiator cleaning, perhaps its better to use one of them rather than use a chemical radiator flush to clean the radiator, cos there will not be any issues of residue. they use ultra sound instead of chemicals to get the oxide layer out, I think with the limited knowledge I have.

I own a Mitsubishi too and I think its very common in Mitsubishi's to have the AC Condensor and the radiator side by side (probably better too) except sometimes it means the radiator and condenser are both not very big. You only need to worry about coolant in the radiator.

Get a service done anyway and the oil filter, air filter and fuel filter replaced with new oil, its good practice anyway when you get a new car since you cannot be sure of the servicing habits of the old user, and get the timing belt checked as well and if there are any signs of wear replace it asap as it could lead to serious problems in the future if the timing belt slips or breaks. Genuine Mitsubishi stuff tends to be quite expensive so I recommend VIC as well.

Also check for wear on the tyres, if there is uneven wear, you might need to get the wheel alignment checked as well,

I know it sounds a lot after you have just got a new car and spent all you had on it, but a lot of this is preventative maintenance and would save you a lot of bucks over time me thinks

The Don

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