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[Solved] What is the difference between Honda Fit GP1 and GP5?


Klord

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Hi,

Can someone explain the difference between GP1 and GP5? 

Are there any other GP versions available?

I do not know much things about Honda. Any information regarding my query will be really appreciated.

———————

I used the search function, but it didn’t yield any fruitful result regarding difference between aforementioned models. There are substantial amount of content regarding Fit, but not many things illustrating difference between models.

Thanks in advance. :)

Edited by Klord
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GP1 (2007-14) is old model, GP5 (2014 onward)  is current model both are hybrids with significant mechanical differences, especially in the hybrid system.

Google there are plenty of information

In AL forum Fit mainly refers to hybrids as it is the most common derivative of the Fit in Sri Lanka

 

Edited by kush
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The GP1 is the hybrid variant of the 2nd generation FIT while the GP5 is the hybrid variant of the 3rd generation FIT. You can refer the Wikipedia article on the key differences of the 2nd and 3rd gen FITs.

A few hybrid specific difference AFAIK are as follows:

GP1

  • Based on Honda IMA Hybrid technology
  • No full EV mode
  • NiMH hybrid battery
  • 1.3L engine, CVT transmission
  • Conventional belt driven engine accessories (A/C compressor, Water pump etc) - So A/C will not work when engine stops at traffic lights etc.

GP5

  • Based on Honda EarthDreams hybrid technology
  • Full EV mode available
  • Li-ion hybrid battery
  • 1.5L engine, 7-speed dual clutch transmission (Shared with Vezel, Grace)
  • All electric engine accessories (A/C compressor, Water pump etc)

Hope this helps ?

Edited by leyland
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I’ll explain what are the differences you’ll notice.

-GP5 is considerably faster than the GP1 and fun to drive. In terms of acceleration it is on a totally different planet when compared with Vitz and Aquas

-Interior is nicely done in the GP5and has an upmarket look than the GP1, but same as the GP1 all materials are hard plastic

-GP5’s Handling is a bit better than the GP1

-Some models of the GP1 came with the serious engine oil burning issue which is a real headache. But only a range of cars are affected. You can search in the forum form for their chassis number range to avoid. This was rectified in the GP5 and later GP1s

-Comfort wise almost the same

-GP5 has the faster wearing Dual Clutch gearbox, which tends to pack up around 80,000kms and above (due to the SL climate)

-Both cars don’t have serious battery issues like the Civic Hybrid, but most of the GP1s would be in their final stages due to their age.

-GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out.

-I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5.

-GP5 is one of the most favourite cars that I would love to DRIVE.

 

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12 hours ago, alpha17 said:

I’ll explain what are the differences you’ll notice.

-GP5 is considerably faster than the GP1 and fun to drive. In terms of acceleration it is on a totally different planet when compared with Vitz and Aquas

-Interior is nicely done in the GP5and has an upmarket look than the GP1, but same as the GP1 all materials are hard plastic

-GP5’s Handling is a bit better than the GP1

-Some models of the GP1 came with the serious engine oil burning issue which is a real headache. But only a range of cars are affected. You can search in the forum form for their chassis number range to avoid. This was rectified in the GP5 and later GP1s

-Comfort wise almost the same

-GP5 has the faster wearing Dual Clutch gearbox, which tends to pack up around 80,000kms and above (due to the SL climate)

-Both cars don’t have serious battery issues like the Civic Hybrid, but most of the GP1s would be in their final stages due to their age.

-GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out.

-I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5. 

-GP5 is one of the most favourite cars that I would love to DRIVE.

 

I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5.

I don't have driven GP5 but about GP1 you are 100% correct. indeed i also found that the GP1 is hard to drive in traffic until you get used. After you familiar with GP1 for a long time it will be hard to drive other car.  Also i have things to clarify about GP1.

1. At the very steep climb with 4 people if you break the car it is very hard to accelerate and get up. You have to reverse down and get pickup. then it will be ok anyone noticed about it?

2. Break and stop at climb when releasing break pedal car is reverse backward. you have to put handbrake or press gas pedal to stop reverse ( i didn't experience that much in any other car) like balancing clutch on manual car.

Are above common things on GP1 and also with GP5?

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30 minutes ago, Randeewa said:

I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5.

I don't have driven GP5 but about GP1 you are 100% correct. indeed i also found that the GP1 is hard to drive in traffic until you get used. After you familiar with GP1 for a long time it will be hard to drive other car.  Also i have things to clarify about GP1.

whaaa? Drove a GP1 daily for 3 years -this is news to me ? . For me the GP1 is a perfect traffic car due to it's handling dynamics you can easily maneuver it in traffic and lane switching is a breeze. 

33 minutes ago, Randeewa said:

like balancing clutch on manual car.

Partially true - but not as severe as you say : if you have to break on an incline and then start again there is a slight 'roll-back' effect but nothing severe and lol no it's not like clutch balancing at all. This is mostly due to the CVT box as far as I know. This is not there in the GP5.  

You guys should try driving an old car like a vw beetle - i had to break on an incline on an old beetle once and balancing the clutch on that mother was so difficult I think I  shit myself. 

On 6/24/2019 at 8:40 AM, Klord said:

Are there any other GP versions available?

GP1 - Hybrid 1.3 L Engine + IMA - same body shape as the GE6 the last Fit to retain the original Fit design genes IMHO. 

GP2 - Fit Shuttle - Hybrid 1.3 L Engine + IMA same car as GP1 only longer. 

GP3 - Honda Freed : A mini mpv/car abomination has the same 1.3 L engine + IMA

GP4: FIT RS. 1.5 L Engine + IMA Sportier version of GP1 - same basic design few cosmetic differences other than the more powerful engine. 

---------- In 2013 Honda Ditched IMA -----------

GP5: from 2013 onwards - based on honda's new 'Earth dreams bla bla bla'  1.5 L Engine + DCT 

GP7 : Honda fit Shuttle based on the GP5 - same internals larger car.

 

There's also a GP6 somewhere which seems to be a larger variant of the GP5? I'm not too sure about that though.

On 6/24/2019 at 9:24 AM, kush said:

GP1 (2007-14) is old model, GP5 (2014 onward) 

Correct other than the years. GP1 is more or less the hybrid version of the GE6 it was produced from 2010-2013 and the GP5 started in 2013. 

 

 

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13 hours ago, alpha17 said:

GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out.

spot On! I've driven both cars and to summarize:

GP1 - Old school petrol car you really don't feel you're driving a hybrid it guzzles fuel like an ordinary petrol car too. A bit more rugged than the GP5. Other than the oil burn issue (factory defect in a set of cars) it's a nice old school trouble free car. In 3 years of ownership i only changed the wiper blades. If you can find a car with the oil burn issue fixed/ one that doesnt fall in the affected VIN # range you have a trusty old school car.  Batteries have held out well so far I sold mine last year (6 years old 61,000 KMS done) with 75% usable capacity on the battery.  

GP5 - Puts a smile on your face. Peppy car with lots of pulling power. Nicer interior and more bells and whistles. 'Rockets out' is an apt description.  I hate the gear shifter though puny little piece of plastic.  People tend to fall in love with GP5s. Despite my warnings about potential DCT issues 2 of my friends after test driving GP5's fell in love with them and ended up buying them. ( One of them - a lady liked it so much that she already  ended up ramming a parked Isuzu Elf )  

Both models are fun and practical. Nowadays due to the lower price are good bargains. 

 

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2 hours ago, Randeewa said:

I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5.

I don't have driven GP5 but about GP1 you are 100% correct. indeed i also found that the GP1 is hard to drive in traffic until you get used. After you familiar with GP1 for a long time it will be hard to drive other car.  Also i have things to clarify about GP1.

1. At the very steep climb with 4 people if you break the car it is very hard to accelerate and get up. You have to reverse down and get pickup. then it will be ok anyone noticed about it?

2. Break and stop at climb when releasing break pedal car is reverse backward. you have to put handbrake or press gas pedal to stop reverse ( i didn't experience that much in any other car) like balancing clutch on manual car.

Are above common things on GP1 and also with GP5?

Forgot to mention. GP1 has the climbing issue. I once had to push a car to help on a very steep hill without even being loaded. On the same place a FIT ARIA also hesitated and had to push that also(road towards next door house). The same hill is easily climbed by a 1.2l CHR every day.

But the issue is more apparent in the GP5 hybrid system. At the beginning of the hill the car stops like its been confused to choose the right gear. This issue is present in the Grace and Vezel too. I experience the same issue even in the new 1.5 Turbo CRV(even the car had no passengers and had plenty of power). But never experienced this issue in the good old ES5.

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2 hours ago, matroska said:

whaaa? Drove a GP1 daily for 3 years -this is news to me ? . For me the GP1 is a perfect traffic car due to it's handling dynamics you can easily maneuver it in traffic and lane switching is a breeze. 

Partially true - but not as severe as you say : if you have to break on an incline and then start again there is a slight 'roll-back' effect but nothing severe and lol no it's not like clutch balancing at all. This is mostly due to the CVT box as far as I know. This is not there in the GP5.  

You guys should try driving an old car like a vw beetle - i had to break on an incline on an old beetle once and balancing the clutch on that mother was so difficult I think I  shit myself. 

GP1 - Hybrid 1.3 L Engine + IMA - same body shape as the GE6 the last Fit to retain the original Fit design genes IMHO. 

GP2 - Fit Shuttle - Hybrid 1.3 L Engine + IMA same car as GP1 only longer. 

GP3 - Honda Freed : A mini mpv/car abomination has the same 1.3 L engine + IMA

GP4: FIT RS. 1.5 L Engine + IMA Sportier version of GP1 - same basic design few cosmetic differences other than the more powerful engine. 

---------- In 2013 Honda Ditched IMA -----------

GP5: from 2013 onwards - based on honda's new 'Earth dreams bla bla bla'  1.5 L Engine + DCT 

GP7 : Honda fit Shuttle based on the GP5 - same internals larger car.

 

There's also a GP6 somewhere which seems to be a larger variant of the GP5? I'm not too sure about that though.

Correct other than the years. GP1 is more or less the hybrid version of the GE6 it was produced from 2010-2013 and the GP5 started in 2013. 

 

 

I had driven the GP1 for a trip to the airport, and a full day around Kegalle town.  I agree that it is a breeze to park and reverse the car due to the small size. Handling is easy. But issue about driving in the traffic might be because I’m new to the car.

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3 hours ago, matroska said:

 

GP1 - Hybrid 1.3 L Engine + IMA - same body shape as the GE6 the last Fit to retain the original Fit design genes IMHO. 

GP2 - Fit Shuttle - Hybrid 1.3 L Engine + IMA same car as GP1 only longer. 

GP3 - Honda Freed : A mini mpv/car abomination has the same 1.3 L engine + IMA

GP4: FIT RS. 1.5 L Engine + IMA Sportier version of GP1 - same basic design few cosmetic differences other than the more powerful engine. 

---------- In 2013 Honda Ditched IMA -----------

GP5: from 2013 onwards - based on honda's new 'Earth dreams bla bla bla'  1.5 L Engine + DCT 

GP7 : Honda fit Shuttle based on the GP5 - same internals larger car.

 

 

 

 

GG7 (./GG8 = AWD) : Fit Shuttle 1.5L + IMA

GP3 : Honda Freed..but it came with the 1.5L = IMA...the Freed never came with a 1.3L engine

GP6 : Same size as the GP5....only difference is GP6 was the AWD variant.

 

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Whoa. Thats a lot of information. Thank you very much @kush @leyland @alpha17 @Randeewa @matroska & @iRage for enlightening me in this regard. 

I actually thought GP1 & GP5 belong to the same generation with different specifications like Honda Civic ES series. 

> Is there any major difference in the appearance between GP1 & GP5?
I see a lot of Fit cars in the road in Sri Lanka. Most K* numbers and some early CA* numbers tend to be a bit beefier while more newer numbers come with a sleek look with more edges. I will assume the later one is the GP5. Please correct me if I am wrong. 

Thank you. ?

Edited by Klord
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7 minutes ago, Klord said:

Whoa. Thats a lot of information. Thank you very much @kush @leyland @alpha17 @Randeewa @matroska & @iRage for enlightening me in this regard. 

I actually thought GP1 & GP5 belong to the same generation with different specifications like Honda ES series. 

> Is there any major difference in the appearance between GP1 & GP5?
I see a lot of Fit cars in the road in Sri Lanka. Most K* numbers and some early CA* numbers tend to be a bit beefier while more newer numbers come with a sleek look with more edges. I will assume the later one is the GP5. Please correct me if I am wrong. 

Thank you. ?

this is GP1 image.jpeg.500d380087915626bc1661c2c90529eb.jpeg manuf from 2010-2013most of these came to SL in 2011-2013 so the numbers would be KW etc... some CA# plates.

 

This is GP5: Image result for fit gp5

First started coming here around 2013 . Apart from the few with KY ish plates most would have CA# plates. 

 

all these hybrids stopped coming to the island when the engine capacity based tax system came to effect ~2016 

 

 

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Thank you @matroska for the quick response. ☺️

I am thinking of buying a car. My budget is around 3 million. Looking at the current market trends, it looks like I will have to settle with a GP1. I like the look of the GP5, but they cost above 3.5 mil. Stretching beyond 5 lakhs is out of my capabilities at the moment.

Thinking of hunting for a 2013 GP1, possibly registered around 2015. Which would give me a fairly new car clocked around 50k-80k max though they belong to the older generation. I am really worried about meter tampering (very common in Sri Lanka). I have very bad previous experience regarding tampered meters in previously owned cars. ?

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1 hour ago, Klord said:

Thank you @matroska for the quick response. ☺️

I am thinking of buying a car. My budget is around 3 million. Looking at the current market trends, it looks like I will have to settle with a GP1. I like the look of the GP5, but they cost above 3.5 mil. Stretching beyond 5 lakhs is out of my capabilities at the moment.

Thinking of hunting for a 2013 GP1, possibly registered around 2015. Which would give me a fairly new car clocked around 50k-80k max though they belong to the older generation. I am really worried about meter tampering (very common in Sri Lanka). I have very bad previous experience regarding tampered meters in previously owned cars. ?

GP1 were bought for economy (perceived) by people who does high mileage and some of them were used as rentals/ taxis pre Wagon R

Finding a one with less than 100k will be a challenge, look for a personal seller with full service record to justify the mileage.

 

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2 hours ago, Klord said:

Thank you @matroska for the quick response. ☺️

I am thinking of buying a car. My budget is around 3 million. Looking at the current market trends, it looks like I will have to settle with a GP1. I like the look of the GP5, but they cost above 3.5 mil. Stretching beyond 5 lakhs is out of my capabilities at the moment.

Thinking of hunting for a 2013 GP1, possibly registered around 2015. Which would give me a fairly new car clocked around 50k-80k max though they belong to the older generation. I am really worried about meter tampering (very common in Sri Lanka). I have very bad previous experience regarding tampered meters in previously owned cars. ?

Mileage tampering is unavoidable....so always assume you cannot trust the mileage. Besides...you should never buy a car based on mileage but always on what you have and see at hand (it doesn't matter if the car when imported was auction grade 5 with 1000km or what ever other bs car sellers tell you). Save some money from your budget...Get the car properly and professionally inspected. Once you find a car that is in good structural condition and mechanically sound for its age...when you buy the do some pre-emptive/scheduled maintenance work with the money you saved from your car buying budget.The scheduled maintenance needed can be based on what the vehicle's last proper verifiable mileage is...or talk to a proper automotive engineer and see what blanket services can be done to the car irrespectiive of what the mileage is.

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1 hour ago, kush said:

GP1 were bought for economy (perceived) by people who does high mileage and some of them were used as rentals/ taxis pre Wagon R

Finding a one with less than 100k will be a challenge, look for a personal seller with full service record to justify the mileage.

 

You have a very valid point. Thank you.

There are some cars advertised in online sites with 50k-80k mileage for 2013 models (registration around 2015). Most likely the mileage can be true compared to the running years if its a personally used car. 

 

 

14 minutes ago, iRage said:

Mileage tampering is unavoidable....so always assume you cannot trust the mileage. Besides...you should never buy a car based on mileage but always on what you have and see at hand (it doesn't matter if the car when imported was auction grade 5 with 1000km or what ever other bs car sellers tell you). Save some money from your budget...Get the car properly and professionally inspected. Once you find a car that is in good structural condition and mechanically sound for its age...when you buy the do some pre-emptive/scheduled maintenance work with the money you saved from your car buying budget.The scheduled maintenance needed can be based on what the vehicle's last proper verifiable mileage is...or talk to a proper automotive engineer and see what blanket services can be done to the car irrespectiive of what the mileage is.

I really wish Sri Lankans will become more serious (ethical) regarding the car condition. We have created a chain of deception. We tamper the meter, tell lies to sell our car and then we also get deceived when buying aftermarket cars. :( 

By the way, what do you mean by professionally inspected? do you mean putting the car to a "Car check" or use of a mechanic? I am not a tech person, I suck at inspecting cars properly. Used to put the car in to "Car Check". And I do not know any good mechanic around who knows hybrid stuff. ?

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4 hours ago, Klord said:

I am thinking of buying a car. My budget is around 3 million. Looking at the current market trends, it looks like I will have to settle with a GP1.

I used a 2012 made GP1 from 2015-2018.(personal import)  It had done 61,000 KM's .(Bought it at 17,000 km i drove 44,000 KM in 3 years)  As far as I remember the oil issue affected a range of cars from 2011-2012 and not 2013. If you buy one try to take a friend along with you who knows cars...look for the basics like signs of accident repair - ugly paint jobs non aligned bonnet etc. If a mileage says 50,000 but if you notice signs of extreme wear and tear in the car - for instance a worn out break pedal that's a give-away. 

Check for maintenance records - there will be no emission certificates for hybrids. There are quite a few agent maintained ones - it's usually the second-third owners who start taking cars to  gaha-yata-service stations.   For 4500 the Honda agent gives you a comprehensive hybrid battery check - you can evaluate the battery status from there. 

Or simply take it to the C#R checks place in Nugegoda. 

Actually more than the GP1 it was the GP2 Shuttle which was used in taxis/rentals and for tourism.  In the pre-wagonR era  Uber had only 2 categories uber go and uber X. The GP1 didn't qualify for X but the GP2 did. (maybe there was a minimum luggage space requirement) so most taxi folk didn't want to run the GP1 for Nano/Maruti rates therefore GP1 taxis are not that frequent. 

Use the hybrid battery and the oil leak issue (even though it's non existent) as barganing points. For the price you pay the GP1 is a really good car. (in the local context of course) 

Edited by matroska
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40 minutes ago, Klord said:

I really wish Sri Lankans will become more serious (ethical) regarding the car condition. We have created a chain of deception. We tamper the meter, tell lies to sell our car and then we also get deceived when buying aftermarket cars. :( 

By the way, what do you mean by professionally inspected? do you mean putting the car to a "Car check" or use of a mechanic? I am not a tech person, I suck at inspecting cars properly. Used to put the car in to "Car Check". And I do not know any good mechanic around who knows hybrid stuff. ?

Its because Sri Lankans have misplaced priorities and subscribe to stupid stories and fairy tales and give more priority to all this crap. Sri Lankans will buy any piece of crap as long as it is a "bargain" and impresses he neighbor's wife and grandmother.

Yes..the place you mentioned and/or the manufacturer.

When I said verifiable mileage...I meant formal documents that show mileage such as emissions tests or manufacturer agent's records. or records from a extremely reputable/large garage. Service station and your average garage records can be bought for a few hundred Rs. so I hardly tell people to rust them. 

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3 hours ago, Klord said:

You have a very valid point. Thank you.

There are some cars advertised in online sites with 50k-80k mileage for 2013 models (registration around 2015). Most likely the mileage can be true compared to the running years if its a personally used car. 

 

 

I really wish Sri Lankans will become more serious (ethical) regarding the car condition. We have created a chain of deception. We tamper the meter, tell lies to sell our car and then we also get deceived when buying aftermarket cars. :( 

By the way, what do you mean by professionally inspected? do you mean putting the car to a "Car check" or use of a mechanic? I am not a tech person, I suck at inspecting cars properly. Used to put the car in to "Car Check". And I do not know any good mechanic around who knows hybrid stuff. ?

Agent is the best

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Also note that the car you get have been used for around 7-8 years in SL, so don’t expect it to be in brand new condition. Repainted buffers(even 1 or 2 body panel) is not a major issue, if the job is done in the right way. But make sure to perform a full inspection from the agent before proceeding to the final step of the transaction if the car suits you(cost around 6000-8000). This would let you know about damages caused by crashes, which is really helpful in long term use. A relation of mine bought a gp1 in pristine condition, few years ago, clocked around 40,000km, which had met with a severe crash and repaired. He had an issue with the gearbox and the mechanic told him about the accident, which was most probably took place in Japan.

Save some money aside for the repairs, atleast around 100k

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I have been following up in Japanese auction sites and cars that are subsequently advertised in sites and available in car sales.

Most of the used ones given at low prices are category D (UK imported insurance write offs) and Auction grade R (Japanese grade for repaired)

There are experts who can inspect and identify these and i believe it is worth paying few thousand rupees and get it done rather than regretting later.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry about the delayed response. I got carried away with an ill fated migration plan which ended up in a disaster. Now back to the earth.

Did check 2 GP1s advertised in online sites but was not satisfied. Meanwhile managed to extend my budget a bit (3.8 mil), so I guess I will be able to go for a GP5. :)

 

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On 6/26/2019 at 5:45 PM, kush said:

Agent is the best

Agent as in Staff*** Motors right?

I saw some cars advertised in online sites with the “agent maintained” tag. Does that mean I can expect the records to be true and car is in fine condition according to the records without any meter tampering?

On 6/26/2019 at 10:31 PM, alpha17 said:

Also note that the car you get have been used for around 7-8 years in SL, so don’t expect it to be in brand new condition. Repainted buffers(even 1 or 2 body panel) is not a major issue, if the job is done in the right way. But make sure to perform a full inspection from the agent before proceeding to the final step of the transaction if the car suits you(cost around 6000-8000). This would let you know about damages caused by crashes, which is really helpful in long term use. A relation of mine bought a gp1 in pristine condition, few years ago, clocked around 40,000km, which had met with a severe crash and repaired. He had an issue with the gearbox and the mechanic told him about the accident, which was most probably took place in Japan.

Save some money aside for the repairs, atleast around 100k

Yes. Having a few bucks at hand is necessary. Never owned a car before so this is a valid advice. Thanks. 

On 6/27/2019 at 7:35 AM, kush said:

I have been following up in Japanese auction sites and cars that are subsequently advertised in sites and available in car sales.

Most of the used ones given at low prices are category D (UK imported insurance write offs) and Auction grade R (Japanese grade for repaired)

There are experts who can inspect and identify these and i believe it is worth paying few thousand rupees and get it done rather than regretting later.  

Can you let me know of a good expert who can help me in this regard please?

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On 6/27/2019 at 11:05 AM, kush said:

Most of the used ones given at low prices are category D (UK imported insurance write offs) and Auction grade R (Japanese grade for repaired)

 

About R grade cars....this pretty much comes from any car that has a "Repair History" associated with its registration. It used to be strictly reserved for cars that have had damage and repairs done on accidents that would have compromised the cars "frame". Frame includes the inner skeletal structure, floor pan and other major support components like cross beams, etc...so if any impact/accident on these components are repaired the repairing shop needs to record it with the Japanese Transport authorities against the registration of the car (in some cases the registration plate needs to be removed during repairs and will be given back only after the necessary paper work is filed..removing the plates is another complicated affair).  Thus if a car has a "Repair History" on it that means it has had a significant accident thus loses value.

However, things have changed more now....now..most auction houses classify cars as R grade if significant modifications to the car has been carried out and is not stock. So a perfectly fine GT86 with an undocumented rocket bunny body kit installation (sometimes even documented ones) would be classified as R grade. 

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