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TOYOTA PREMIO VS. AUDI A3


Stryker

Question

Hello,

trying to choose between a  2018 Toyota Premio G Superior and a 2018 Audi A3 TFSI Sedan, and needs some clarifications and comparisons between both.  (both are almost the same price)

1. Speed?  because the Audi comes with a tiny 3 cyl - 1.0 liter engine , How is the pick up? Not expecting sports car performance, but should be able to overtake in our roads unlike a Wagon R.

2. How is maintenance? Cost of service, and spare parts availability? Toyota should win this one easily but your thoughts and opinions. Also recommend a good place to service both.

3. Comfort and overall features?

4. Fuel consumption and resale value? Don't care about either of these, but would like to know what the general consensus is, just for the sake of comparing.

Also there is a Hatchback version of the A3 Sedan called a A3 Sportback. The specs are almost identical, but it is almost 1mil cheaper than the sedan. any thoughts?

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2 hours ago, iRage said:

I wasn't talking about the S-line...I was referring to even the normal ones. I have had people say Japanese barges with their suspension on sports setting are uncomfortable and not as "patta" as an Allion/Premio. 

Now..the rest....

For starters you do realize they have different service intervals right ? Thus, by the time you match up the services over a period of time it will be more or less the same. Secondly, you do realize that most European cars have more service points per service than just changing oil and filters...don't you ? Also, there seems to be some misconceptions in the numbers you report. I have had my Toyotas serviced at the agents....the "other" services are just checking fluid levels and cleaning the under carriage and as a courtesy they just do a quick scan of the ECU (by quick I mean quick, but of course it is marketed as something more. My Mark X got a full diagnosis of the CVT....the car has a 6Spd conventional AT !) to see if there are any error codes (its more or less a matter of business continuity step for them). I am guessing this is what was involved for the "Hybrid system diagnosis" as well.

Yes, I do want to start talking about repairs (also it was asked by the OP)...because are you saying a Japanese car never has to be repaired ? I guess YOU are the pundit on why Sri Lankans go for Japanese cars. Are you actually saying Japanese cars never break or are you saying proper/reputable parts for Japanese cars are cheap ? Both are not true and there is plenty of evidence for that.  Even labor charges are pretty high at decent garages...unless you are suggesting people take their Japanese cars with all the active and passive systems over to the maka baas down the street.

The days of just pumping petrol and putting oil and run till you drop with Japanese cars are long long gone. 

..and as I said in my first post...looking at the questions asked, replying to this thread is a no brainer....just buy the Premio. Because if the comparison had to be made (especially in the areas questioned)....then yeah...The Audi is not the car. But don't be mislead by people thinking that it will be cheap to run and repair because it wont be (unless you are just using it for a short time and plan to just fix and service it at the road side garage with questionable parts)

There are no mistake on the figures I presented on the axio. First time I’m hearing repairs costs and maintainable will be the same for both euros and the Japanese lol. Mate service intervals are one thing and it won’t be the same in the long run. Don’t you think people don’t like euros ? A service at one of these euro agents will cost a rough sum ~ 25-30k. Say you run 10k with that service. Two services cost 50k. Does the Toyota cost the same ? 

 

Can an you please provide some evidence that a Toyota will cost as much as a good euro to maintain ? I pay you the compliment of knowing euros are much more complex cars ? You do know that their suspension components, steering gear etc are designed driver oriented thus having a lot more components to do the same thing ? All those intelligent computers working all the time ?  The Japanese are still much more simpler with their rack and penion steering , without double wishbone suspension etc etc. due to their simple nature the parts are also simple resulting  in economical parts. Now labor. Do you know how hard it is to work on a euro ? Sometimes getting to work on something requires complete dismantle of another area. More time , more cost on labor. Also labor won’t be cheap as the experties required to work on these cars are different.  One of my uncles had a 523i and had a premature radiator failure. It costed 85k plus at the agents to fix. Also I remember in that car you can go into the menu, see the health of each spark plug. While these systems in euros are genuinely brilliant , imagine how much money one will have to put to fix these if they go wrong ? Cars like this when they age, after 5 years, if your not lucky , they can become money pits. 

 

Do you really think the latest Japanese cars have even has the slight complexity of a new euro ? No. In this thread we are taking of a old gen premio which has systems like a hand calculator. You still say repairs are going to the same. Oh and at the agents. There are no myths , it’s facts. I’m not saying all , majority of the Japanese cars are much easier on maintainance than euros such as Audi’s and BMWs and whatnot .  I once remember I had a S60  , to replace one front shock at a 3rd party workshop costed me ~24k (part only) cause if the complex design of the shock. As I remember it had the spring and shock together.  If you take something similar of that era like a Mark II do you think it will cost 24k to replace one shock ? 

 

iRage while I respect your immense knowledge and experience on vehicles if will be good to have even a little bit of empathy. 

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12 hours ago, TheFlyingFox said:

The Audi is sporty true especially with the true sline (Firm/Hard suspension) models. At the same time on these Colombo bumpy roads it can be quite uncomfortable, the massive wheels adds to this as well, this is where models with adaptive dampers help. Same goes for Japanese cars with sports suspension and big wheels,  the GP4 i had was really uncomfortable on bad roads, The GP1 on the other hand has much better ride quality on bad roads. Extreme cases of sport suspension as you know will be cars like the WRX which has “terrible” ride quality on bad roads  

 

Again- it all depends on what you are used to and the car itself. I owned a Toyota Mark X which ran on 18 inch wheels with sports suspension- it was hard but not uncomfortably so and I always enjoyed the drive.  We now have a Civic EX-T in the household with adaptive dampers which is very comfy - and I actually prefer it with Dynamic Suspension settings on. My friend has the current gen Mazda6 2.5 Sky-Activ which runs on 19's with no adaptive suspension which I have driven several times and I love the ride.  

I much prefer these cars to the regular Premios and Allion's with its boat like suspension and floaty ride. My mom had an Insight and I hated that car's horrid soft suspension.

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14 minutes ago, RWD said:

Again- it all depends on what you are used to and the car itself. I owned a Toyota Mark X which ran on 18 inch wheels with sports suspension- it was hard but not uncomfortably so and I always enjoyed the drive.  We now have a Civic EX-T in the household with adaptive dampers which is very comfy - and I actually prefer it with Dynamic Suspension settings on. My friend has the current gen Mazda6 2.5 Sky-Activ which runs on 19's with no adaptive suspension which I have driven several times and I love the ride.  

I much prefer these cars to the regular Premios and Allion's with its boat like suspension and floaty ride. My mom had an Insight and I hated that car's horrid soft suspension.

Mate I have not driven but have been in the Toyota and the Mazda. The Mazda specially is not hard (not soft like a premio either). You should try one of the sline Audi’s or rs grade Honda’s. I have seen the type r civic whole body go up and Down on small uneven surfaces on these roads. On Colombo roads , cars with sports suspension can be quite uncomfortable. That is if your the type of person who doesn’t mind up and down jerks most of the time. 

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On 10/15/2018 at 1:16 AM, Stryker said:

Hello,

trying to choose between a  2018 Toyota Premio G Superior and a 2018 Audi A3 TFSI Sedan, and needs some clarifications and comparisons between both.  (both are almost the same price)

1. Speed?  because the Audi comes with a tiny 3 cyl - 1.0 liter engine , How is the pick up? Not expecting sports car performance, but should be able to overtake in our roads unlike a Wagon R.

2. How is maintenance? Cost of service, and spare parts availability? Toyota should win this one easily but your thoughts and opinions. Also recommend a good place to service both.

3. Comfort and overall features?

4. Fuel consumption and resale value? Don't care about either of these, but would like to know what the general consensus is, just for the sake of comparing.

Also there is a Hatchback version of the A3 Sedan called a A3 Sportback. The specs are almost identical, but it is almost 1mil cheaper than the sedan. any thoughts?

Whether one compares apple n apple or apple n wood-apple, comparisons are very easy today. Either goto brand-sites or google. However, when it comes to SL, people even compare apples with coconuts and what not, thanks to the sad affairs of SL. You have put forward 4 points, out of which the resale value is the unique parameter in SL. Suppose that your priority is 'resale value, then anyone would say- go for the Toyota. But then again, my eyes tell that more Audis than Premios on the road, these days. So, who knows, Audis may become 'Premios' in the near future when it comes to resale value factor. If I was to make a decision on this, I would only be asking experts on 3 cyl vs 4 cyl concerns, and if that's ok I would go for Audi A3. As RWD mentioned above, I too prefer s-suspension to a boat-ride feeling suspension system, because then I feel I am driving a real car. My final thought is- if you plan to use it for a short-term, then go for a Toyota, but if it is for long-term go for the car that your heart likes.

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We are taking about this due to the idiotic tax system in this country

As per the current tax regime tax for

Audi A3 1.0L = Rs. 1.75 Mn.

Allion 1.5L = Rs. 4.785 Mn.

Given the fact the fact that both cars are similarly priced any one with grade 5 mathematics knowledge knows that actual value of the Audi is Rs. 3.0 Mn more.

Go and get it before the government change their mind

 

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8 hours ago, Stryker said:

Also most Europeans care alot about fuel consumption, more than Sri Lankans in some cases.

And in western countries cars are a depreciating asset. Not so much in Sri Lanka for the most part, so it is fair to consider resale value in a buying decision here...

 

No,Sri lanka has the worlds largest density of "thel higannas" as you can see from these discussions.

IF mainstream Europeans(not UK or Norway,which are not really EU) cared so much about fuel consumption(~1.5Euro/L for Petrol and ~1.4Euro/L for diesel), all would be driving Prius now instead of the traditional Combustion powertrains.

Edited by vag2
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14 hours ago, TheFlyingFox said:

The Audi is sporty true especially with the true sline (Firm/Hard suspension) models. At the same time on these Colombo bumpy roads it can be quite uncomfortable, the massive wheels adds to this as well, this is where models with adaptive dampers help. Same goes for Japanese cars with sports suspension and big wheels,  the GP4 i had was really uncomfortable on bad roads, The GP1 on the other hand has much better ride quality on bad roads. Extreme cases of sport suspension as you know will be cars like the WRX which has “terrible” ride quality on bad roads  

 

I beg to differ. One of my friends has a Axio maintained by Toyxxx Lanxx from day 1 and the total cost for service including the following,

Genuine Toyota oil

Genuine Toyota oil Filter

Genuine Toyota Air filter

and the rest of the service including checking the health of the hybrid battery etc costs just LKR 13,000. Are you going to say that if you service say a A3,Q2 or A4 whatever it is at Senxx you can get away with anything remotely similar to that amount ?? Servicing at a 3rd party place such as idexx motors will cost more than that (The full synthetic oil they recommend for these cars can cost as much as a full service at TL, albeit being able to run ~7500km intervals). You really want to start talking about repairs ? You people really don't get why Japanese cars dominate the market over here. People in this forum may hate it but that’s the truth  

 

anyway I do not wish to fire ? a flame on this thread too 

Just now I inquired from TL prices for the below items for NKE 165 AXIO Hybrid

  1. Genuine oil filter - 2652/=
  2. Genuine Air filter - 5682/=
  3. Toyota conventional Oil 10W-30 - 4646/=

So the cost of parts amounts to Rs. 12,980/=. So, could you please explain to me how on earth you manage to do a full service for Rs. 13000?

 

 

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3 hours ago, TheFlyingFox said:

There are no mistake on the figures I presented on the axio. First time I’m hearing repairs costs and maintainable will be the same for both euros and the Japanese lol. Mate service intervals are one thing and it won’t be the same in the long run. Don’t you think people don’t like euros ? A service at one of these euro agents will cost a rough sum ~ 25-30k. Say you run 10k with that service. Two services cost 50k. Does the Toyota cost the same ? 

 

Can an you please provide some evidence that a Toyota will cost as much as a good euro to maintain ? I pay you the compliment of knowing euros are much more complex cars ? You do know that their suspension components, steering gear etc are designed driver oriented thus having a lot more components to do the same thing ? All those intelligent computers working all the time ?  The Japanese are still much more simpler with their rack and penion steering , without double wishbone suspension etc etc. due to their simple nature the parts are also simple resulting  in economical parts. Now labor. Do you know how hard it is to work on a euro ? Sometimes getting to work on something requires complete dismantle of another area. More time , more cost on labor. Also labor won’t be cheap as the experties required to work on these cars are different.  One of my uncles had a 523i and had a premature radiator failure. It costed 85k plus at the agents to fix. Also I remember in that car you can go into the menu, see the health of each spark plug. While these systems in euros are genuinely brilliant , imagine how much money one will have to put to fix these if they go wrong ? Cars like this when they age, after 5 years, if your not lucky , they can become money pits. 

 

Do you really think the latest Japanese cars have even has the slight complexity of a new euro ? No. In this thread we are taking of a old gen premio which has systems like a hand calculator. You still say repairs are going to the same. Oh and at the agents. There are no myths , it’s facts. I’m not saying all , majority of the Japanese cars are much easier on maintainance than euros such as Audi’s and BMWs and whatnot .  I once remember I had a S60  , to replace one front shock at a 3rd party workshop costed me ~24k (part only) cause if the complex design of the shock. As I remember it had the spring and shock together.  If you take something similar of that era like a Mark II do you think it will cost 24k to replace one shock ? 

 

iRage while I respect your immense knowledge and experience on vehicles if will be good to have even a little bit of empathy. 

You really should try winning the Darwin award....maintenance cost is not just oil costs and filters.  If you do maintain a Toyota at the agents then yes..the bill does rack up ! I have maintained quite a few cars with the agents....so yeah although you think you know better than I do...you are being the typical pigeon holed pundit (just like the whole Thai car issue with your Ford...). Old Japanese cars are straight forward...but that has nothing to do with the fact that the agents do not charge you an arm and a leg for services and for parts. Even though the platform of the Premio/Allion is a decade old, it has been bandaged up with new tech. You really don't want a maka baas to be messing around with it only to find things like the Toyota Safety Sense features not working (and it has happened). About your shock-absorber example...you just shot yourself on the foot with that one. Yes....a Mark II shock costs that much....at the KYB agent one shock assembly costs 20 something thousand...Mark X is a bit cheaper than 30K (granted this was in late 2015). Check one of the previous threads where the agents had asked for a similar amount for a shock that is much simpler for an Aqua or something....so parts are not cheap if you want to use the actual "genuine"part. The same part from a third party is a bit cheaper.

As for the Axio prices..I said there are misconceptions there....the scan they do is not a full diagnostic on battery, gearbox etc...they just do a quick read of error codes. So you harping on about it being 13,000 for a service and diagnostic is not entirely accurate (and misleading...).

To be honest I do not know why I even bother responding to your posts. It is as intellectually stimulating as talking to a brick wall.

At the end of the day, what meets the OPs requirements is the Premio. Maintained properly or poorly there always will be someone there to buy it at a ridiculous price as long as it looks shiny and the gold badges are in tact.

 

Edited by iRage
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3 hours ago, TheFlyingFox said:

Mate I have not driven but have been in the Toyota and the Mazda. The Mazda specially is not hard (not soft like a premio either). You should try one of the sline Audi’s or rs grade Honda’s. I have seen the type r civic whole body go up and Down on small uneven surfaces on these roads. On Colombo roads , cars with sports suspension can be quite uncomfortable. That is if your the type of person who doesn’t mind up and down jerks most of the time. 

Own Mazda 6 and Audi A5 Sline sport back (19 inch wheels). Audi suspension is bit stiff on dynamic mode and you feel it when hitting relatively large cracks/holes. However i do not feel uncomfortable when going through unevenness as mentioned by you. Of course if you set to normal mode it gets more comfy. Mazda 6 Vs Audi - definitely the Audi 

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6 hours ago, kush said:

We are taking about this due to the idiotic tax system in this country

As per the current tax regime tax for

Audi A3 1.0L = Rs. 1.75 Mn.

Allion 1.5L = Rs. 4.785 Mn.

Given the fact the fact that both cars are similarly priced any one with grade 5 mathematics knowledge knows that actual value of the Audi is Rs. 3.0 Mn more.

Go and get it before the government change their mind

 

Only reason to buy an Audi A3 over Premio is brilliantly explained here.

Apart from this A3 is not a proper Audi by any standards, it's just a cheap euro car designed to overcome tight EU emission standards and aimed to capture the market of Jap cars. But it doesn't offer the Toyota reliability or the fuel economy!

You won't get the performance nor the comfort of a proper Audi, but of course you can brag about how you can afford an Audi in front of non-car people! 
You won't be accepted by the euro car community as a proper Audi owner nor will be accepted by the Jap car community as a reliable economy car owner! ? 

So chose wisely!

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5 hours ago, iRage said:

You really should try winning the Darwin award....maintenance cost is not just oil costs and filters.  If you do maintain a Toyota at the agents then yes..the bill does rack up ! I have maintained quite a few cars with the agents....so yeah although you think you know better than I do...you are being the typical pigeon holed pundit (just like the whole Thai car issue with your Ford...). Old Japanese cars are straight forward...but that has nothing to do with the fact that the agents do not charge you an arm and a leg for services and for parts. Even though the platform of the Premio/Allion is a decade old, it has been bandaged up with new tech. You really don't want a maka baas to be messing around with it only to find things like the Toyota Safety Sense features not working (and it has happened). About your shock-absorber example...you just shot yourself on the foot with that one. Yes....a Mark II shock costs that much....at the KYB agent one shock assembly costs 20 something thousand...Mark X is a bit cheaper than 30K (granted this was in late 2015). Check one of the previous threads where the agents had asked for a similar amount for a shock that is much simpler for an Aqua or something....so parts are not cheap if you want to use the actual "genuine"part. The same part from a third party is a bit cheaper.

As for the Axio prices..I said there are misconceptions there....the scan they do is not a full diagnostic on battery, gearbox etc...they just do a quick read of error codes. So you harping on about it being 13,000 for a service and diagnostic is not entirely accurate (and misleading...).

To be honest I do not know why I even bother responding to your posts. It is as intellectually stimulating as talking to a brick wall.

At the end of the day, what meets the OPs requirements is the Premio. Maintained properly or poorly there always will be someone there to buy it at a ridiculous price as long as it looks shiny and the gold badges are in tact.

 

iRage , maybe you can’t process things I say, my English is not good as yours I admit, maybe that’s why. . Maintenance is not just oil changers I know. It’s the overall services , repairs. I never mentioned that I know better than you , on the contrary , I have always mentioned your knowledge and experience in a number of my posts. I meant it as a compliment and not as a joke or sarcasm. You seem to think otherwise. S60 shock was at a 3rd party place and if you said that the mark II shock will cost the same then I don’t have anything to say.

 

Anyway, knowledge and theory won’t alone make everything right. You need experience as well. But if you say that maintaining a euro and Japanese will cost more or less the same I will accept that I’m wrong and your correct no problem ! I have stated my experience. So I hope most people will drive euros than Japs in the future. 

 

I will get a TL invoice tomorrow and get the other members who asked for proof on the service cost ?

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4 hours ago, Quiet said:

Own Mazda 6 and Audi A5 Sline sport back (19 inch wheels). Audi suspension is bit stiff on dynamic mode and you feel it when hitting relatively large cracks/holes. However i do not feel uncomfortable when going through unevenness as mentioned by you. Of course if you set to normal mode it gets more comfy. Mazda 6 Vs Audi - definitely the Audi 

Mate I gave that example on the type R civic which has a lot more firm suspension than either the Audi or Mazda. I agree that the Audi overall is much better than the Mazda as a drivers car. 

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2 minutes ago, TheFlyingFox said:

iRage , maybe you can’t process things I say, my English is not good as yours I admit, maybe that’s why. . Maintenance is not just oil changers I know. It’s the overall services , repairs. I never mentioned that I know better than you , on the contrary , I have always mentioned your knowledge and experience in a number of my posts. I meant it as a compliment and not as a joke or sarcasm. You seem to think otherwise. S60 shock was at a 3rd party place and if you said that the mark II shock will cost the same then I don’t have anything to say.

 

Anyway, knowledge and theory won’t alone make everything right. You need experience as well. But if you say that maintaining a euro and Japanese will cost more or less the same I will accept that I’m wrong and your correct no problem ! I have stated my experience. So I hope most people will drive euros than Japs in the future. 

 

I will get a TL invoice tomorrow and get the other members who asked for proof on the service cost ?

Here  we go again 

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@Stryker  having previously owned a 260 allion for a good 60,000km and now daily running a 2 litre VW Bora, I can safely say that the allion was more expensive when it comes to  maintenance. Fuel cost is negligible. 

Obviously my Bora is quite old now (18 Years old with 170,000km on the odo) however it  is twice the car the allion is and I've found that parts were much cheaper for the euro!

 

 

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6 hours ago, peugeot407 said:

Why don't you share the TL the invoice? I am curious about the cost you have mentioned.

Will PM you in the evening , meeting my friend 

image.thumb.png.1eb5ed5ed644e32687960f197c8807be.png

 

image.thumb.png.f9af6d6ed8b6dff8bec1a2ecaa92b9eb.png

 

image.thumb.png.628f46a1ee5bced4e3e14f3fac7f6c4c.png

image.thumb.png.2cfb874052f55b17c9c5590caba47d5c.png

 

EDIT Hi Mate, Please find the attached invoices. He had given me a overall monthly figure which was 13k. Each service varies between 6k ,9k, 13k, 14k, 16k. 

Looping @peugeot407@iRage

Edited by TheFlyingFox
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6 hours ago, kadsa98 said:

@Stryker  having previously owned a 260 allion for a good 60,000km and now daily running a 2 litre VW Bora, I can safely say that the allion was more expensive when it comes to  maintenance. Fuel cost is negligible. 

Obviously my Bora is quite old now (18 Years old with 170,000km on the odo) however it  is twice the car the allion is and I've found that parts were much cheaper for the euro!

 

 

Don't have a euro but used the Allion for 5 years which i got zero mileage. By first 25K km range the rear shocks gave up. Lubing at Kl**n Park costs around 10K on average (which goes up when i need to change air filters and AC filters plus other additions). Tune ups and injector cleaning ending up at about 15K, CVT change i think 18K , AC servicing 20K , O2 sensor replaced, Front tyres gave up by 20,000 due to the usual issue with the the original tyres, and so on.. 

On the contrary, Montero service and repairs also cost and arm & leg if i buy them from the agent , but now through a relative i get Shogun 4 parts from UK at a fraction of the price ( around 60% cheaper to the agents). 

So, Allion maintaining at the agents indeed is not cheap or any jap for that matter i guess. 

I dont have the faintest clue on euros. 

 

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1 hour ago, Sadik said:

Don't have a euro but used the Allion for 5 years which i got zero mileage. By first 25K km range the rear shocks gave up. Lubing at Kl**n Park costs around 10K on average (which goes up when i need to change air filters and AC filters plus other additions). Tune ups and injector cleaning ending up at about 15K, CVT change i think 18K , AC servicing 20K , O2 sensor replaced, Front tyres gave up by 20,000 due to the usual issue with the the original tyres, and so on.. 

On the contrary, Montero service and repairs also cost and arm & leg if i buy them from the agent , but now through a relative i get Shogun 4 parts from UK at a fraction of the price ( around 60% cheaper to the agents). 

So, Allion maintaining at the agents indeed is not cheap or any jap for that matter i guess. 

I dont have the faintest clue on euros. 

 

Honda Service at agents for CRV 2013, maintained through out them as per their schedule

Rs 12-13 K for oil and filter every 5000k/ 6 months, add Rs. 8k if air filter is replaced, ATF was around Rs. 15K as i remember

Nothing was replaced for 40,000 km.

Now in to a Euro each service 15000k / 1 year, around Rs. 60K

Approximately 1.5 times

 

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2 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

And could someone share a lube service receipt for an Audi (or a euro car) so we can compare the two brands?

2000 Volkswagen Bora 

For me the usual service cost is as below -

Mobil semi synthetic 5L - Rs.6,500 (Changed every 5000 miles not km)

Genuine VW Oil Filter - Rs.1,950

Oil drain nut crush seal - Rs.350 

Air Filter - Rs.3000

Injector Cleaner - Rs.900

MAF & Throttle cleaners - Rs.1800 (1 can lasts for maybe 3 services?)

Labour - I do it myself so it takes maybe 45 minutes. 

Edited by kadsa98
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I think the Euros have such long intervals mainly due to the premium oil which they use. Intervals are what the book says without taking into consideration things like very high rate of stop and go traffic , harsh climate, dust etc etc. If one puts premium oil to Japanese cars they can also go for long intervals. I personally use Mobile 1 5W-30 and although it can run for 10k I tend to change it every 7.5k. 

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15 minutes ago, TheFlyingFox said:

I think the Euros have such long intervals mainly due to the premium oil which they use. Intervals are what the book says without taking into consideration things like very high rate of stop and go traffic , harsh climate, dust etc etc. If one puts premium oil to Japanese cars they can also go for long intervals. I personally use Mobile 1 5W-30 and although it can run for 10k I tend to change it every 7.5k. 

Rubbish 

The user manuals of Euros specify the service intervals and oil types for both standard driving conditions and rough driving conditions. 

As I recall, you owned a Fiesta, if you ever bothered to read the user manual, you should know that. 

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19 minutes ago, TheFlyingFox said:

I think the Euros have such long intervals mainly due to the premium oil which they use. Intervals are what the book says without taking into consideration things like very high rate of stop and go traffic , harsh climate, dust etc etc. If one puts premium oil to Japanese cars they can also go for long intervals. I personally use Mobile 1 5W-30 and although it can run for 10k I tend to change it every 7.5k. 

talking from my experience servicing at the agent. They DO consider the mentioned factors relevant for our market for original imports.

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