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7 hours ago, varotone said:

Does anyone have a workshop manual for this model? I would like to buy one preferably. Even an ebook would be very helpful. I Ihavesearched the internet without any success.

I have only been able to find the engine workshop manual PDF and I updated the link on another thread for you. 

I've seen a couple of workshop manuals on eBay. Most of them from Australia where it was referred to as the Lancer LA (early model) or Lancer LB (later model) and Lancer LC (Celeste). LA, LB and LC are the model codes and the cars were actually made during the time Mitsubishi and Chrysler had a partnership going on, so they were all generally referred to as Chrysler Lancer or Colt Lancer. Just a few tips and keywords for you to share for workshop manuals. Local Australian classifieds sites have physical books for sale for around Rs 3000.

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Thanks Davy for updating the link to the engine manual PDF. E b a y has a couple of manuals for sale. They are German. I have contacted the seller regarding an English one.

Now my todo list is

1. Get the emission test

2. Update the revenue license

3. Replace all four brake liners

4. Change the radiator coolant

I would like to hear from the experts about #3 and 4.

3. I'm looking for Brembo/EBC/OEM(Akebono) to replace all four.

4. I have to add a radiator coolant. Have doubts about doing a flush. My worry is that small debris might be covering the minute leaks in this old radiator. When I do a flush will I remove those plugs and create leaks that were not there?

 

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IF I am not mistaken your car has all 4 drums. and your pics don't show a booster,..

If drums allround, you'll have 8 shoes,..

 A major job in it self,..the stoppers . pay good attention to rubber parts like the flexible brake hoses,  and the washers. 

As for the rad,.. post a pick of the core with the cap off, and how are the hoses? + the cap?

And for safety,.. check your t belt,..

 

 

Edited by Twin Turbo
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3 hours ago, Twin Turbo said:

IF I am not mistaken your car has all 4 drums. and your pics don't show a booster,..

If drums allround, you'll have 8 shoes,..

 A major job in it self,..the stoppers . pay good attention to rubber parts like the flexible brake hoses,  and the washers. 

As for the rad,.. post a pick of the core with the cap off, and how are the hoses? + the cap?

And for safety,.. check your t belt,..

 

 

It has a booster (servo). I assume it's the same thing our mechanics refer to as "save brakes". Here's a pic of the engine bay.

I have to postpone the brake liners job because I failed the emissions test.

IMG_20181011_101817.jpg

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21 minutes ago, varotone said:

It has a booster (servo). I assume it's the same thing our mechanics refer to as "save brakes". Here's a pic of the engine bay.

I have to postpone the brake liners job because I failed the emissions test.

IMG_20181011_101817.jpg

IMG_20181007_133822.jpg

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which is your car?

 

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@Twin TurboThe first one. (Silver engine bay with a coat of grease. Dunno why the previous owner smeared grease all over). Isn't the back drum like thing right below the wiper motor the brake booster?

UPDATES:

I went for the emissions test today. Just drove in in the condition that I bought it in. It even had a misfire at high revs. I failed the emissions test!

Went to a mechanic and replaced the ignition contact breaker (mechanic says "platinum set") and the wires from the distributor to spark plugs. One wire had visible damage at a kink in the wire. Others were all right on inspection. No sparks. But I just replaced the whole set of wires.

I failed the second attempt as well. Next attempt is a carburetor tune-up and most likely go for a smaller caliber main jet. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

This is how the emissions test went

First attempt

Idle RPM=790, HC=5094, CO=7.06

At 2500, HC=4498, CO=4.36

Second attempt

Idle RPM=820, HC=516, CO=0.39

At 2500, HC=358, CO=6.06

 

 

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13 minutes ago, varotone said:

At 2500, HC=358, CO=6.06

May be you need to overhaul the engine to get the emission test passed.....😃

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As for the emission test,

1. Do you observe any oil burning ie blue smoke from exhaust when engine is fully warmed up.

2. How about the condition of plugs and air cleaner? Are they reasonably new?

3. Before any clean up/tune up done on the carb check if the PCV breather line (located below the air cleaner spout ) i not clogged up with all carbon gunk.

4. With the air cleaner cover removed check if fuel  is atomized properly inside the carb barrel when the engine is revved up. If it comes in large droplets then most probably the emulsifying tubes are clogged up and could be the reason for rich  air/fuel mixture.

BTW nice to see someone with a passion for Lancers.

Quote

 

 

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4 hours ago, tilvin said:

May be you need to overhaul the engine to get the emission test passed.....😃

An engine overhaul is my last option. I will start looking at the smaller, easily correctable faults first. When fixing a car (or anything else for that matter) one should start from the parts easiest to test/fix and work up to more difficult to test/fix parts. Correct me if I'm wrong.

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4 hours ago, Rumesh88 said:

As for the emission test,

1. Do you observe any oil burning ie blue smoke from exhaust when engine is fully warmed up.

2. How about the condition of plugs and air cleaner? Are they reasonably new?

3. Before any clean up/tune up done on the carb check if the PCV breather line (located below the air cleaner spout ) i not clogged up with all carbon gunk.

4. With the air cleaner cover removed check if fuel  is atomized properly inside the carb barrel when the engine is revved up. If it comes in large droplets then most probably the emulsifying tubes are clogged up and could be the reason for rich  air/fuel mixture.

BTW nice to see someone with a passion for Lancers.

 

Thanks a lot for the input and appreciation.

#1. No. there's no blue smoke.

#2. Spark plugs are still usable. All were carbon fouled to begin with. I cleaned them before the second attempt. Air filter looks good.

#3. I didn't check the PCV components. But if there's an obstruction, that would increase HC in the exhaust gas and not CO? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

#4. Thank you. I will check it tomorrow. 

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Replace the spark plugs and airfilter3

TT 

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11 hours ago, varotone said:

@Twin TurboThe first one. (Silver engine bay with a coat of grease. Dunno why the previous owner smeared grease all over). Isn't the back drum like thing right below the wiper motor the brake booster?

- 👍😊Most prob , yes. get a close up pic. the grease may be to protect the engine bay from corrosion,..put a fuel system cleaner and fill the tank .

UPDATES:

I went for the emissions test today. Just drove in in the condition that I bought it in. It even had a misfire at high revs. I failed the emissions test!

Went to a mechanic and replaced the ignition contact breaker (mechanic says "platinum set") and the wires from the distributor to spark plugs. One wire had visible damage at a kink in the wire. Others were all right on inspection. No sparks. But I just replaced the whole set of wires.

I failed the second attempt as well. Next attempt is a carburetor tune-up and most likely go for a smaller caliber main jet. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

This is how the emissions test went

First attempt

Idle RPM=790, HC=5094, CO=7.06

At 2500, HC=4498, CO=4.36

Second attempt

Idle RPM=820, HC=516, CO=0.39

At 2500, HC=358, CO=6.06

 

 

 

Edited by Twin Turbo

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16 hours ago, varotone said:

It has a booster (servo). I assume it's the same thing our mechanics refer to as "save brakes". Here's a pic of the engine bay.

I have to postpone the brake liners job because I failed the emissions test.

IMG_20181011_101817.jpg

That engine bay actually looks much better than the previous car. It even has the ducting for the air filter which is missing in most cars. Share more photos. We promise not to say anything that will hurt your feelings. :D 

 

11 hours ago, varotone said:

First attempt

Idle RPM=790, HC=5094, CO=7.06

At 2500, HC=4498, CO=4.36

Second attempt

Idle RPM=820, HC=516, CO=0.39

At 2500, HC=358, CO=6.0

Looks like significant improvement after the distributor contact breaker and high tension leads replaced. However as Rumesh has mentioned, the high CO indicates that the engine is running rich. So double check your air filter and PCV.

 

11 hours ago, varotone said:

I failed the second attempt as well. Next attempt is a carburetor tune-up and most likely go for a smaller caliber main jet. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

My opinion is that  if you must overhaul the carburettor, then just use a carburettor repair kit and get an expert to do it. I have had nightmares with makabases experimenting with my carb and I even had to swap it out because  the first carb was messed up too badly to restore. 

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13 hours ago, varotone said:

Thanks a lot for the input and appreciation.

#1. No. there's no blue smoke.

#2. Spark plugs are still usable. All were carbon fouled to begin with. I cleaned them before the second attempt. Air filter looks good.

#3. I didn't check the PCV components. But if there's an obstruction, that would increase HC in the exhaust gas and not CO? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

#4. Thank you. I will check it tomorrow. 

#3. PCV in this case is a thin tubing unlike the valve you find in newer engines.  If left unattended before doing a carb tune up, a clogged PCV will result in a wrong throttle position setting at idle. Why I mentioned this is because most of our mechanics do not bother about it. However, this tube can get clogged up from cam cover end. Best method to check without opening up the cam cover  is to fix a tight fitting plastic tube to PCV tube and blow with your mouth. In case if you happen to open the cam cover for any other reason make sure that you clean the oil baffles inside the cam cover together with the tube.

Edit: Discussion on a similar thing. 

 

Edited by Rumesh88
Previous discussion linked.
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8 hours ago, Davy said:

My opinion is that  if you must overhaul the carburettor, then just use a carburettor repair kit and get an expert to do it. I have had nightmares with makabases experimenting with my carb and I even had to swap it out because  the first carb was messed up too badly to restore. 

Do you know any carb experts? Does this model comes with Solex carb?

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UPDATES:

Passed the emissions test :yahoo:

Idel HC=438 CO=1.17

@ 2500RPM HC=230 CO=0.45

Bought a repair kit and did a rebuild. Originally main jet was size 120 and changed to 80. The idel could be better tuned. There is a small problem. When the A/C is switched on the engine can't idle. It stalls. The mechanic said to replace the diaphragm first and then tune the idel.

Here are the pics. 

(NOTE: Gentlemen, you may see this listed in classified sites. Please do not comment on the price that I may have paid for it. I know that you will be doing it in good faith to prevent me from being ripped off by a shady dealer. But, someone saying that I could have bought it for less just brakes my heart. After all, there's nothing that can be done about the purchase now.)

 

IMG_20181011_101813.jpg

IMG_20181011_101817.jpg

IMG_20181011_101823.jpg

IMG_20181011_103807.jpg

IMG_20181012_175825.jpg

IMG_20181012_175831.jpg

IMG_20181012_175844.jpg

IMG_20181012_175852.jpg

IMG_20181012_175902.jpg

IMG_20181012_175905.jpg

IMG_20181012_175919.jpg

IMG_20181012_175921.jpg

IMG_20181012_180348.jpg

IMG_20181012_180359.jpg

IMG_20181012_181038.jpg

IMG_20181012_181055.jpg

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On 10/11/2018 at 2:28 AM, Davy said:

 

I've seen a couple of workshop manuals on eBay. Most of them from Australia where it was referred to as the Lancer LA (early model) or Lancer LB (later model) and Lancer LC (Celeste). LA, LB and LC are the model codes and the cars were actually made during the time Mitsubishi and Chrysler had a partnership going on, so they were all generally referred to as Chrysler Lancer or Colt Lancer. Just a few tips and keywords for you to share for workshop manuals. Local Australian classifieds sites have physical books for sale for around Rs 3000.

Can you say what what I own from the pictures? LA LB or LC? I found a Haynes manual on E b a y. Considering buying it as option B.

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7 hours ago, varotone said:

UPDATES:

Passed the emissions test :yahoo:

Idel HC=438 CO=1.17

@ 2500RPM HC=230 CO=0.45

Bought a repair kit and did a rebuild. Originally main jet was size 120 and changed to 80. The idel could be better tuned. There is a small problem. When the A/C is switched on the engine can't idle. It stalls. The mechanic said to replace the diaphragm first and then tune the idel.

Here are the pics. 

(NOTE: Gentlemen, you may see this listed in classified sites. Please do not comment on the price that I may have paid for it. I know that you will be doing it in good faith to prevent me from being ripped off by a shady dealer. But, someone saying that I could have bought it for less just brakes my heart. After all, there's nothing that can be done about the purchase now.)

 

IMG_20181011_101813.jpg

IMG_20181011_101817.jpg

IMG_20181011_101823.jpg

IMG_20181011_103807.jpg

IMG_20181012_175825.jpg

IMG_20181012_175831.jpg

IMG_20181012_175844.jpg

IMG_20181012_175852.jpg

IMG_20181012_175902.jpg

IMG_20181012_175905.jpg

IMG_20181012_175919.jpg

IMG_20181012_175921.jpg

IMG_20181012_180348.jpg

IMG_20181012_180359.jpg

IMG_20181012_181038.jpg

IMG_20181012_181055.jpg

Hi, Good show bro,..

Cheers,..🙂

TT.

Edited by Twin Turbo
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your battery is fitted the wrong way ,..properly mount it and extend the  ground(negative) cable,..

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26 minutes ago, Twin Turbo said:

your battery is fitted the wrong way ,..properly mount it and extend the  ground(negative) cable,..

Thanks for noticing that. Can you please share a photo of the battery fitted correctly? I will look at it and fix.

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17 hours ago, tilvin said:

Do you know any carb experts? Does this model comes with Solex carb?

I think original carb manufacturer was a company named Mikuni. The A72 came with many different types of carbs including the "bottle type" one. The one on mine was different and had a small glass window to see the float chamber. 

As for carb experts, I'm sorry I have been completely out of touch about local mechs and garages since I'm away from the country for the most part of the year. 

11 hours ago, varotone said:

Can you say what what I own from the pictures? LA LB or LC? I found a Haynes manual on E b a y. Considering buying it as option B.

LB. Let me know if you're unable to find. Pretty sure I can find one for you and post it. 

Good job on getting the emission test passed! The small joys of repairing a car properly. 

The car seems to be in better condition than the previous one. Like the black interior than the beige one. It needs the set of badges and emblems by the looks. 

As for the battery, the positive terminal needs to be away from the body of the car to prevent the risk of it coming into contact with the metal. Also, I don't see a battery retaining bracket. You should be able to get one from Panchi or a salvage yard. 

Lastly, fender mirrors AND door mirrors... Because two just don't cut it. :D

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5 hours ago, varotone said:

Thanks for noticing that. Can you please share a photo of the battery fitted correctly? I will look at it and fix.

 

Better put a rad pressure cap in the shopping list,.. And top up the brake fluid,.. 

Cheers,.

TT.

Edited by Twin Turbo
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I'll have to buy new battery leads along with the plastic caps that cover the terminal. And the battery restraining piece as well. I see only one metal pillar on the side of the battery. There should be two with a screw on top on either side of the battery. May be I'll leave it to the end to do with tinkering. I'll.have to resort to some makabas job for now.

@Davy Thanks for the offer to help. I have PMed you. Two pairs of mirrors was the previous owners idea. I'm planning to remove the fenders for now. It needs a bit of repair. Will re attach them after tinkering and painting.

Radiator cap, flush, coolant all in my shopping list. And wipers.

Had to postpone the radiator flush due to bad weather. 

Edited by varotone

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