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Honda Civic 2018


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On 2/28/2019 at 11:59 AM, NemesisArc said:

Also, Use Mobil 1 advanced fuel economy n

So did my first service today at 4800 K's and this is the oil  I went for . The service was fairly ok - i was at the service area keeping an eye on things. There was a lot of bad rep of late on this forum as well as FB - they did most things right but forgot to mark on the service booklet - and just simply OK'd everything else and put the oil filter as replaced and engine oil as changed - a worrying practice done at almost all places in SL. 

On an unrelated note: Been going to the Honda agents since 2015 and for the past few years the place was always full of Fit's and Vezels which now seem to be replaced by Civics and CRV's - possibly since the novelty factor has worn off and/or most of the Fit's Vezels are now with the second generation of owners - hence they've either decided St####d are crap OR decided the  gaha-yata service station is better for their bargain price Hybrid [more likely] 

Edited by matroska
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  • 3 months later...

I was doing some reading around the web because I'm considering of upgrading to one, and saw that US CR-V 1.5Ts suffer from oil dilution ?? Just wondering if there's any possibility that same problem is likely to occur in 1.0T as well. According to an FB group some owners who went mad with right foot have had trouble with the turbo? 

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1 hour ago, Sam B said:

I was doing some reading around the web because I'm considering of upgrading to one, and saw that US CR-V 1.5Ts suffer from oil dilution ?? Just wondering if there's any possibility that same problem is likely to occur in 1.0T as well. According to an FB group some owners who went mad with right foot have had trouble with the turbo? 

Oil dilution is to be expected if you're running short distances and a lot of quick stop-starts. Just that it has been worse in the 1.5T's of the CR-V and Civic 10th gen. It hasn't been reported as an issue with the 1.0T yet though.

As for turbo trouble, there's an art to drive a turbocharged engine. Just because one exists, doesn't mean stomping the accelerator without considering the operating rpm is a good idea. Never ever attempt to "launch" a car like this especially given its tiny 3-cyl engine as it isn't built for that purpose. Remember, on the 1.0L, the turbo is there to just give you sufficient bursts of power when needed (despite there being a little turbo lag), which would otherwise cause your car to struggle given its weight. It isn't surprising that the turbo may have blown if used too aggressively. To add to it, that's why you need to follow the maintenance minder to the dot, use proper fully synthetic oil that is recommended for your engine (as per the owner's manual) and keep your vehicle serviced regularly. Any one of those go out of balance and you could end up with trouble at some point in time.

That said, at times I do get a weird gasoline smell when I switch off a car after a drive. It isn't consistent though and I only get the smell outside the cabin. No idea what that's all about, but I'll check my oil level tomorrow morning.

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6 hours ago, misnad said:

Oil dilution is to be expected if you're running short distances and a lot of quick stop-starts.

and this is why cars that do this constantly are considered as vehicles being used under harsh conditions...has nothing to do with  the car being strictly TC or NA...

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Speaking of 1000CC Turbo engines and the recommended engine oil, I have a couple of questions. 

My cars (Audi A3) service manual does not explicitly state the viscosity of the oil to be used. It recommends Castrol Edge Professional (full synthetic of course) and mentions that I should refer to the agent for the correct viscosity.

I've asked around a couple of reputed service stations and they recommend 5W-40 oil. However, Castrols website has an option to enter the car model and find the correct oil for the given vehicle. When I used this, the oil that was suggested was 5W-30 Long Life.

When I mentioned this to the service stations, their reply was that 5W-40 is more suitable to the Sri lankan environment.

Can someone please shed some light on this? I am obsessed with putting manufacturer recommended oils in my car and I cannot verify this 'better for SL' claim the service station personnel are making.

 

Edited by ramishkad
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Simply put..go with what the agent recommends for local conditions. The website would be very general.

In most user manuals viscosity recommendations are ranges and the proper viscosity is to be determined based on operating env. temperature. It is only since recently that manuals for Hybrids and other LEVs just started giving a single viscosity in the user manual in the interest of fuel efficiency..but even then depending on the region the car is sold in it might give a different single viscosity.

The Audi agent in SL I beleive is one of the more sensible ones...so if they say 40W is more suited...then perhapds you should consider it.

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3 hours ago, iRage said:

Simply put..go with what the agent recommends for local conditions. The website would be very general.

In most user manuals viscosity recommendations are ranges and the proper viscosity is to be determined based on operating env. temperature. It is only since recently that manuals for Hybrids and other LEVs just started giving a single viscosity in the user manual in the interest of fuel efficiency..but even then depending on the region the car is sold in it might give a different single viscosity.

The Audi agent in SL I beleive is one of the more sensible ones...so if they say 40W is more suited...then perhapds you should consider it.

Thank you for the input. My concern is that mine being a grey import, I do not have agent assistance available to me. So I was asking around from other places such as Bosch service center and Vishwa Motors. I'll try to contact the agent and see if they are willing to provide this info.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So I thought I’d give my 13k km service update here. Despite my whining, I still went back to the agent at Raththanapitiya. Stuck with the trusty Castrol A5 5W-30. This time though, the service advisor was like, “using 10W-50 is good enough for the new Civic”.  I’m lost for words on this one. Even my old Axio 2007 ran on Toyota 10W-30. By the way, there’s hardly a difference in service intervals between the older 5W-30 semi-synthetic and Castrol A5 and that’s most likely due to the heavy running conditions in Colombo traffic. Engine stop/start cycles seem to be a major contributor.

Further, I asked them to re-fit the bumper lower lip and add new clips if required since one side was a little displaced (yes, I managed to scrape the bottom on a kerb), but got the response that if they do that, the radar will probably have to be realigned, etc. Then again, they replaced the entire air spoiler under the lower lip once before without any issues, so he said he’ll get it done. That wasn’t even touched. I’ll take it to the body shop to get it refit next.

Now for the best part. I was told by them to only use the Honda Blue coolant (Type 2) for top-up, which is exactly what’s specified in the owner’s manual as well. However when I purchased a 500ml top-up bottle, I just found out what they provided. It was some Japanese Bear Brand Blue coolant being sold instead. Here’s hoping I don’t run into any issues with the radiator now.

Oh and these guys don’t know what the recommended tyre pressure is. They’ve gone with 29 for all the tires when it’s supposed to be 32psi. Noticed the roughness as soon as I started driving back and got that filled up.

Totally love the car, but really despise the agents now. I think I’ll buy a good scan tool myself and take the car to a different service station going forward. Sigh!

 

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1 hour ago, misnad said:

 

Oh and these guys don’t know what the recommended tyre pressure is. They’ve gone with 29 for all the tires when it’s supposed to be 32psi. Noticed the roughness as soon as I started driving back and got that filled up.

 

 

Usually it's the other way around right? (I mean, higher the air pressure is, rougher the ride)

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20 hours ago, misnad said:

 

Now for the best part. I was told by them to only use the Honda Blue coolant (Type 2) for top-up, which is exactly what’s specified in the owner’s manual as well. However when I purchased a 500ml top-up bottle, I just found out what they provided. It was some Japanese Bear Brand Blue coolant being sold instead. Here’s hoping I don’t run into any issues with the radiator now.

 

 

@misnad The first time I got my car serviced at Stafford they used Wurth for a top up. A few months ago I picked up the original Coolant but didn't want to top up the reservoir tank because the book specifically says to drain and refill with the original. Now my reservoir is approaching the minimum level so I was going to take it to Stafford Maradana and ask them to drain and replace. I take it they are not following the manufacturer recommendation?

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20 hours ago, misnad said:

Now for the best part. I was told by them to only use the Honda Blue coolant (Type 2) for top-up, which is exactly what’s specified in the owner’s manual as well. However when I purchased a 500ml top-up bottle, I just found out what they provided. It was some Japanese Bear Brand Blue coolant being sold instead. Here’s hoping I don’t run into any issues with the radiator now.

Bear brand ? as in  වලහා ? or bare as in nothing ?

To be fair..this whole "Manufacturer"" brand oils/fluids/parts/etc is a very non-Japanese thing (even in the US I did not have this craze of car Manufacturer oil)....if you go to a Japanese dealer you do get a OEM brand of oil/fluid/part that the manufacturer has pre-determined to sell under licensing. Sometimes you get a litte logo of the car manufacturer...sometimes you just get the OEM supplier's bottle/brand...

So..do you know what the coolant was ? Perhaps it is the brand Honda actually uses...

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I'm still trying to figure out what all this fuss is about.

A car in not going to die if coolant brands get mixed up or even get mixed with with water as it is any way water mixed with anti freeze and anti rust chemicals added. Do not recommend tap water though as it contains chlorine. 

I'm sure more damage is done to our vehicles due to inferior fuel, dusty and humid climate.

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59 minutes ago, kush said:

I'm still trying to figure out what all this fuss is about.

A car in not going to die if coolant brands get mixed up or even get mixed with with water as it is any way water mixed with anti freeze and anti rust chemicals added. Do not recommend tap water though as it contains chlorine. 

I'm sure more damage is done to our vehicles due to inferior fuel, dusty and humid climate.

Well, we aren’t clear about the chemical composition of the fluids being used. I’ve personally had a previous car’s radiator choke with rust after one of the mechanics used a totally different type of coolant than was recommended. So while we can’t really control the quality of fuel or dust, at least there’s an option of maintaining the right coolant being used or even motor oil.

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3 hours ago, iRage said:

Bear brand ? as in  වලහා ? or bare as in nothing ?

To be fair..this whole "Manufacturer"" brand oils/fluids/parts/etc is a very non-Japanese thing (even in the US I did not have this craze of car Manufacturer oil)....if you go to a Japanese dealer you do get a OEM brand of oil/fluid/part that the manufacturer has pre-determined to sell under licensing. Sometimes you get a litte logo of the car manufacturer...sometimes you just get the OEM supplier's bottle/brand...

So..do you know what the coolant was ? Perhaps it is the brand Honda actually uses...

It was just something that had an actual bear (animal) picture and labeled “Bear brand”.

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On 7/7/2019 at 8:03 AM, iRage said:

Bear brand ? as in  වලහා ? or bare as in nothing ?

To be fair..this whole "Manufacturer"" brand oils/fluids/parts/etc is a very non-Japanese thing (even in the US I did not have this craze of car Manufacturer oil)....if you go to a Japanese dealer you do get a OEM brand of oil/fluid/part that the manufacturer has pre-determined to sell under licensing. Sometimes you get a litte logo of the car manufacturer...sometimes you just get the OEM supplier's bottle/brand...

So..do you know what the coolant was ? Perhaps it is the brand Honda actually uses...

True, found out that Toyota T-IV ATF is nothing other than re-branded Mobil 3309. and Valvoline Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant is the supplier of Toyota Pink SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant).

Edited by Ruslan
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Here’s what they use. Good thing is that it is a 50% Ethylene Glycol mixture, which is what the manufacturer’s coolant uses. However, I can’t find this Bear Brand (Seiken) coolant’s Safety Data Sheet online to ascertain its constituents. The Honda Type 2 Data Sheet states the following:

1) Ethylene Glycol 47-53%
2) Diethylene Glycol <3%
3) Potassium Hydroxide <3%
4) Hydrated inorganic acid, organic acid salts <5%
5) Bittering agent >30mg/kg (Added so you don't eat it)

4F671C96-2690-4B9A-A860-D0AE63D92E4B.jpeg

A0A9A947-0654-4D69-AE7D-3DC49E55BBCC.jpeg

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1 hour ago, misnad said:

Here’s what they use.

What does your users manual say?

Mine says:

MITSUBISHI MOTORS GENUINE SUPER LONG LIFE COOLANT PREMIUM or equivalent*

*similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrate and non-borate coolant with long life hybrid organic acid technology.

So as long as the manufacturer of the coolant has specified that the coolant is HOAT and doesn't contain silicates, amines, nitrates or borates the coolant is compatible.

Example equivalent I've found https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/803a8057-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/d5fc71df-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

So see if your manufacturer has specified something similar and if the "bear brand" meets those specifics.

 

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Ohhh Seiken...I never paid too much attention to the bear logo and had no idea it said Bear Brand :)

But Seiken is a popular and reputed manufacturer of automotive and industrial chemicals in Japan. Many auto manufacturers use their fluids (I know Toyota dealerships use their brake fluids), so who knows..perhaps Honda Japan uses their fluids in Japan under license.

Either way....it is popular and reputed so its highly unlikely , as long as it is the legit brand and not a Chinese knock-off, that it will have a composition that is not good for your engine. At the end of the day, Honda engines do not use alien technology/metals that makes it ground-breakingly different from other manufacturers in this (and many other) regard :D 

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53 minutes ago, iRage said:

Either way....it is popular and reputed so its highly unlikely , as long as it is the legit brand and not a Chinese knock-off, that it will have a composition that is not good for your engine.

2

IDK if this applies to @misnad's car but the equivalent for the OEM coolant for my car is Valvoline Zerex:

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/803a8057-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/d5fc71df-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

The same manufacturer (Valvoline) makes another coolant that says "for all makes and models" but it contains silicates; which, according to my users' manual, should not be used:

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/823b8057-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/4d51a061-0dbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

So the same popular and reputed manufacturer makes both compatible and incompatible coolants, at least in my case

Edited by Hyaenidae
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17 hours ago, misnad said:

nd labeled “Bear brand

which is actually Seiken... did my service today and topped up with the same : thats what staff####use everywhere. I dont think Im too worried about this. Did the service at Ja Ela instead of Maradana. No complaints. 

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