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Sampath Gunasekera

My New Ride : Mistubishi Lancer CS1 GLX (A/T) YOM 2007

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4 minutes ago, kusumsiri said:

I am not saying their judgements are correct and remaining sufficient thickness (25 microns) after the job. Before start the job ff they have doubt, they slowly cut a corner (specially lower part of a panel) and check whether color coat coming up or not. Thats how they measure. :D

Standards be damned amirite :D

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7 minutes ago, GayanR said:

So more the clearcoat cut more the shine?😁

Fewer scratches = more shine

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29 minutes ago, GayanR said:

So more the clearcoat cut more the shine?😁

No. It will not further shine, when cut an even clear coat.

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What denote by Lancer CS Model Code???

1669280574_lancercode.thumb.jpg.606b7d9d1bc9ed11adc5da8a6a2d9615.jpg

Recently I saw a very rare CS3 unit at Unit#d Mot#rs. It was a 2008 CS3 with Automatic Transmission BUT WITHOUT TIPTRONIC . This is the very first such CS3 unit I saw manufactured in 2007-2011. When I observe the model code of the car, I feel it is automatic transmission with CVT .

I checked sales catalogs and checked few car numbers with RMV app.

This is what I found /guess .

(This is purely based on export models. Seems CS2 units have some other letters on same positions but I cannot find the meaning)


Position                           : 1  2  3  4  5  6   7  8  9 
Example Model Code   : C  S  1  A  S  R  J  E  R

First two positions are CS in all CS models.

If third position 1 --> 1300cc engine
If third position 2 --> 1500cc engine
If third position 3 --> 1600cc engine

After that AS is common for 4th and 5th positions.

After that 6th position ;

If 6th position ‘N’ – Manual Transmission
If 6th position “R” – Automatic Transmission (Including Tiptronic for 1600cc)
If 6th position ‘T’ – Automatic Transmission with CVT

If 7th Position is “J” – Trim Level is "GLX"
If 7th Position is “D” -  Trim Level is "GL"

8th Position is “E” is common. (I guess for exports, not sure)

If 9th Position is "R" – Right hand driven
If 9th Position is "L"  – Left hand driven

Between 8th position and L/R - If ‘Q’ present , Euro 2 / Step 2 Emission Regulations (Example : EQR)
Between 8th position and L/R - If ‘B’ present , Leaded Models (Example: EBR)

 

Special Note: All 'GL' units are equipped with 1300cc engines (All GL units are CS1). Trim Level "GL" is equipped with Automatic Transmission only for LHD markets. 

Guys , correct me if I am wrong.

Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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Pretty sure 4th position A is for Sedan and W for Wagon.

Second position S is replaced with T for Evolution models. (Example CT9A for Evo Sedan) 

The below info is based on what I remember from my CS3 (CS3ASNJER1UXXXXXX), and what I remember reading in a workshop manual. 

10th position is the YOM. For example, 1 for 2001, 2 for 2002 and so on. I'm not sure if they changed it to a 0 for 2010 and started over since the model ran for more than a decade. 

I believe the 11th position is an alphabetic character. I had a "U" and from memory, it was to indicate the manufacturing plant. 

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For the CY, (I guess its as same as the CS)

Position: 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9

Example: C Y  2  A  S  R  M  H  R

First 2 positions are CY for all CY models

Position 3 : Engine model

If 3rd position is 1 - 1600CC engine

If 3rd position is 2 - 1500CC engine

Position 4 : This says it's a passenger car, hence all models have "A" on the 4th position

Position 5 : Body type

If position 5 is S - Sedan

If position 5 is L - Hatchback / Sportback

Position 6 : Transmission type

If position 6 is R - Automatic

If position 6 is N - Manual

If position 6 is T - CVT

Position 7 - Trim Level

If position 7 is S - GLX

If position 7 is M - GLS

Position 8 - Emissions standard

If position 8 is H - Euro 4

If position 8 is P - Euro 5 / Low Co2 standard 

Position 9 - Driving position

If position 9 is L - LHD

If position 9 is R - RHD

 

Edited by Hyaenidae
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Beading.thumb.jpg.fa9e7a9448a47cd149258bd5c5b17bf7.jpg

Front rubber beading  under the bonnet was broken in to pieces due to rubber martial expired.  Could not find an original unit and drove car without it for more than one month. It spoiled my air filter soon. There is a place close to my home which undertake windscreen jobs and  the guy  fixed a rubber beading , I guess comes for vehicle doors. But it works pretty fine. 

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Maintenance Update:

Date: 11 & 12 February 2020 (At United Mortors - Orugodawatta)

Odo: 135,135km

I have completed 43,000km under my ownership. Timing belt had to replace for the second time in service history (Last time Timing Belt replaced at 45,351km on 19 May 2014). Few months ago, agent pointed me oil leaking from right side front differential case oil seal and hence replaced both side oil seals.

(Since Timing belt replacement is not a maintenance we see frequently, I here add many photos to show the whole process for CS enthusiasts.)

Below maintenance worked carried out and it took 1.5days.

(1)    Timing belt replaced with tensioner and oil pump ‘o’ ring

(2)    Oil pan cleaning

(3)    Replaced both side front differential case oil seals

(4)    ATF replacement

(5)    Inner rubber seal of engine oil cap (Photo not attached)

(6)    Front and rear wheel alignment

I must say Unit#d Mot#rs did a very good job & thank to Senior Service Advisor Mr.Sisira Kumara & Technician Mr.Jayawardhana.

1.0.jpg.2d546d65bdf4b60773ca2c8e1b0b5405.jpg

1.2.png.d521c643807ab4ea8519f709e70cc859.png

2.1.jpg.77d3dda326067b20e7d58f096d82b0bb.jpg

2.2.jpg.21bda37e17f727629b170077d52ed19d.jpg

3.jpg.a4b98420c8b4820a3c27a5369c66499d.jpg4.jpg.c5e25fa291d4c7ae96ef7b9a3a26af8e.jpg6.0.thumb.jpg.5f8d57e8978976b9e28c220812404043.jpg6.1.jpg.0dc8a37f1f278d2c4a90880a1262f23e.jpg6.3.thumb.jpg.f2d9239debb8a8afd359612d270483b3.jpg7.thumb.jpg.b57b6a1feda4cf38723bc5b30403c6c6.jpg8.0.jpg.830ef2bd6b865ca0a17209a94203e7f0.jpg8.1.jpg.85797b92f2f82395e3fcf57855e1dddd.jpg9.1.jpg.4d07fa3b4995491fcf4247e03863dc86.jpg9.jpg.8824fe18d0fbbb026259f8c036931f60.jpg10.thumb.jpg.db9a718623d645a265d7d0755018ba2a.jpg11.thumb.jpg.fee667e463413e734c6e97b90aab5e2c.jpg12.jpg.a5946d159022a15d05d21da6eff70a66.jpg

Continued to next post....

Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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Thanks for sharing. There were some concerns about using the ATF changer when changing oil. Is it a recommended practice. Just I went through the CVT oil change procedure of Eclipse Cross given in the service manual, it recommends to drain the system, 1 time using new oil  :)

image.thumb.png.93ca9adb3579b5db4e60db8ef2b703af.png

Edited by vitz

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Dear All,

I'm replying to this tread as this refers to buying a Lancer.

Please pardon me if I'm using the wrong thread.

After selling my previously used car, I was checking for a CS 3 triptronic car from some time back, but unfortunately that was not a success. Though few cars have been inspected, all of those are not acceptable condition.

I came across a CS 02 car very recently and I'm satisfied with the condition of the car.

Details of car as follows

Lancer CS 02 recondition model

Model No:- CS2A STJE 2

In the model number I understand "CS2ASTJE" part , but not the number 2.

 

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Dear All,

I'm replying to this tread as this refers to buying a Lancer.

Please pardon me if I'm using the wrong thread.

After selling my previously used car, I was checking for a CS 3 triptronic car from some time back, but unfortunately that was not a success. Though few cars have been inspected, all of those are not acceptable condition.

I came across a CS 02 car very recently and I'm satisfied with the condition of the car.

Details of car as follows

Lancer CS 02 recondition model

Model No:- CS2A STJE 2

Type : Recondition 

YOM:- 2007   YOR:- 2010

In the model number I understand "CS2ASTJE" part , but not the number 2. What is denoted by number 2 in this model?

I checked forum on how to identify EFI/GDI engines, as my knowledge I feel the car is having EFI engine due to below attached picture.

Can someone confirm whether this is EFI? 

Can dashboard is different than the brand new CS series and it's attached. Hope there are no specific issues related to this model.

Few more points that I need clarification from Lancer experts are

1. Is there any specific issues with this model of the car as your know?

2. Immediate things that need attention on as I inspected are replacing windscreen, front ABS sensor, paint dicky room & car undercoat (signs of corrosion development), engine tapet cover and oil seal replacement (signs of oil leaks) and interior cleaning. 

Due to these, owner agreed for 2.4 Mn. Is this reasonable price with respect to market prices for CS 2 recondition model?

3. I have scheduled to have Unit#d Mot#rs inspection on tomorrow at Rathmalana workshop.

Is there any specific point that I need to have look during the inspection process?

Special Note:- Car has not been maintained at agents and no previous service/maintain reports not available with current owner. Is there a way mileage can be cross checked. When inquired from Unit#d Mot#rs they said it can be done, but as per my knowledge mileage tampering can't be identified through scanning. please provide your views on this as well

Sorry for the lengthy post, I appreciate your prompt responses in this regard since car inspection and final decision will be taken on tomorrow.

engine room.jpg

display.jpg

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55 minutes ago, Menakec said:

Can someone confirm whether this is EFI? 

Well I do think this is an EFI Model as well....anyways let's bring in the Mitsu Mafia

@Hyaenidae @Davy @Sampath Gunasekera

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5 minutes ago, matroska said:

Well I do think this is an EFI Model as well....anyways let's bring in the Mitsu Mafia

@Hyaenidae @Davy @Sampath Gunasekera

01. In the model number I understand "CS2ASTJE" part , but not the number 2. What is denoted by number 2 in this model?

It means this car has a 1500CC engine. 

CS1 - 1300CC

CS2 - 1500CC

CS3 - 1600CC

02. Can someone confirm whether this is EFI? 

I can confirm this is an EFI engine. Here's how to differentiate a GDI engine from an EFI engine:

https://elakiri.com/threads/mitsubishi-lancer-gdi-ද-බලමු.1882176/

03. Is there any specific issues with this model of the car as your know?

There are no inherent issues with the EFI CS2 as far as I know.

04.  Immediate things that need attention on as I inspected are replacing windscreen, front ABS sensor, paint dicky room & car undercoat (signs of corrosion development), engine tapet cover and oil seal replacement (signs of oil leaks) and interior cleaning. Due to these, owner agreed for 2.4 Mn. Is this reasonable price with respect to market prices for CS2 recondition model? Car has not been maintained at agents and no previous service/maintain reports not available with current owner. Is there a way mileage can be cross checked. When inquired from Unit#d Mot#rs they said it can be done, but as per my knowledge mileage tampering can't be identified through scanning. please provide your views on this as well

Seeing as 2007 CS1s go around 2.5mn and  CS2s and CS3s are hard to come by I'd seriously consider buying this if I were you, but lack of service records is somewhat disconcerting... It's good that you opted to get the car inspected by UNIMO, make your decision based on that report.

About mileage tampering, it's advised that one should consider every vehicle that has no verifiable service records as a mileage-altered vehicle. Sometimes you can detect mileage tampering via scanning but that's not a given (The ECU records the mileage when you clear DTCs (Diagnostic  Trouble Codes) so if there has been a recent DTC clearing you might be able to detect if the mileage has been tampered with. If there has been no recent  DTC clearing you won't be able to confirm mileage tampering that way.

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Dear Hyaenidae,

Thanks for your reply. 

What I referred as number "2" is the last digit in the model STJE 2

Yes, only concern I'm having is the doubt of mileage tampering. As I feel, current owner has not done any tampering since he has done only 10K by himself, but I might be wrong also.

I have to wait till I receive inspection report on tomorrow.

Any particular points that I can ask from technicians to check on tomorrow at car inspection in order to identify mileage tampering and engine/gear box condition. 

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9 hours ago, Menakec said:

Dear Hyaenidae,

Thanks for your reply. 

What I referred as number "2" is the last digit in the model STJE 2

 

It seems your model code is missing one denomination, it usually has a L or a R to denote if the car is LHD or RHD. The number you're asking about comes after that, the market which the car has been sold in - for example no. 6 means the vehicle has been sold in the European market. I reckon the number 2 would mean the car has been sold in the Japanese market.

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13 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

Yo you forgot to mention @trinity 

...and @K.o.N.o.S

adee yes my bad! 

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, Menakec said:

Dear Hyaenidae,

Thanks for your reply. 

What I referred as number "2" is the last digit in the model STJE 2

Yes, only concern I'm having is the doubt of mileage tampering. As I feel, current owner has not done any tampering since he has done only 10K by himself, but I might be wrong also.

I have to wait till I receive inspection report on tomorrow.

Any particular points that I can ask from technicians to check on tomorrow at car inspection in order to identify mileage tampering and engine/gear box condition. 

STJE is MX and STJE2 is MX-E (trim levels). Yours should have a MX-E badge on the trunk. 

S = Sedan

T = CVT Transmission

JE2 = MX-E Trim. (I believe the E in "JE" stands for EFI)

Edited by Davy
Added more info

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

It seems your model code is missing one denomination, it usually has a L or a R to denote if the car is LHD or RHD. The number you're asking about comes after that, the market which the car has been sold in - for example no. 6 means the vehicle has been sold in the European market. I reckon the number 2 would mean the car has been sold in the Japanese market.

The model code spec for JDM variants is the bit different from that of General Exports, so the bit at the end  is a little different from what I have learned over the years. 

I believe you are referring to this scheme (I think this one is for the Aussie market as I found this in an Aussie forum).

Ident.jpg

Edited by Davy
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Posted (edited)
38 minutes ago, Davy said:

The model code spec for JDM variants is the bit different from that of General Exports, so the bit at the end  is a little different from what I have learned over the years. 

Ah. Yes, I was using the international standard to decode the model code; never knew JDM Lancers had a different coding system

Edited by Hyaenidae

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Dear All,

Thank you very much for your replies. 

I understood that this is JDM MX-E model, but when searched no much information of option comparison between these models.

The car went through the inspection process today. Main outcomes were as follows

1. U*M can't identify mileage tampering since data on ECU related to this is not there. Mileage tampering must have been done some time back.

2. Replacement of below parts/spares which are usual running repairs except last two points.

      Oil pump o-ring, all hub bearings, rack ends, ball joints, stabilizer bar bush, shocks, balance bar bushes, brake caliper pins, timing belt, engine mount, ABS sensor, windscreen and seat cushioning. 

Need your opinion on below points

1. Agent quoted a sky rocketed price for the spares and repair which I believe is not mandatory for 13 year old car. 

I checked with Da*na*y*k motors and W*mal motors for parts, they both have brand new Japan parts from other brands, not the genuine mitsu part importing by agent.

Out of the above list, I can't afford to do complete list at once, so decided to go in the order of engine mount, ABS sensor, timing belt, suspension parts, windscreen (small crack) and seat cushioning. 

I need your advice on selection of spares for the car. Budget would be my contraint, but I do not want to have un-reliable parts on the car since it's daily rider around 100 Km per day. 

Above mentioned shops had below parts.

engine mounts (Rs. 6000 each)- Malaysian or Thailand available - No Jap available  - Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine one

Timing belt only (Rs. 4000 each) - Jap brand - Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine

Hub bearing, Ball joint, rack ends - Jap brand -  Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine

Bushes - Malaysian brand - Is it ok to use this or advisable to have genuine

Can you please provide your opinions on selecting the spares.

I'm intended to buying the car still, as most of these are running repairs.

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