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My New Ride : Mistubishi Lancer CS1 GLX (A/T) YOM 2007


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21,000km done under my ownership and taken car to the agents for lubrication service (Odo: 112,900km)

I didn’t observe such a brake oil level dropping, but service people found small leak from rubber boot kit at rear brake cylinders. (When gently press the rubber part, oil start to leak)

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Brake cylinders were taken out and cleaned well. No deep grooves on inner wall  of the brake cylinder, but they took it to lathe shop and polished the inner wall of the brake cylinder.

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Polished the inner cavity of the brake cylinder.

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After 11 years , Cup boot kit  for brake cylinders replaced. (Mitsubishi Part No.: 4610A078)

Cup boot kit (Repair kit) = Rs.2,932/= (for both sides)

Labour cost = Rs. 3,174/=

Total cost = Rs.6,106/=

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Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi Everyone, 

I recently got my first car, a Lancer CS1 GLX YOM 2008 manual and brand new imported. I have gone through almost all the threads here about the cs and was very helpful. ? The car is in very good condition and didn't run in to any issues in last 4 months.

I could not find which octane type is recommended for the vehicle. Or Could not find an owner's manual in the internet. The previous owner has used 95 octane and I followed since.

Can anyone please let me know which is the recommended octane type for the vehicle. Much appreciated. ☺️

@Sampath Gunasekera @Davy

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4 hours ago, the_Sahan said:

Hi Everyone, 

I recently got my first car, a Lancer CS1 GLX YOM 2008 manual and brand new imported. I have gone through almost all the threads here about the cs and was very helpful. ? The car is in very good condition and didn't run in to any issues in last 4 months.

I could not find which octane type is recommended for the vehicle. Or Could not find an owner's manual in the internet. The previous owner has used 95 octane and I followed since.

Can anyone please let me know which is the recommended octane type for the vehicle. Much appreciated. ☺️

@Sampath Gunasekera @Davy

Congratulations on your car!

90 or above. So 92 is fine. 

Edited by Davy
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6 hours ago, the_Sahan said:

Hi Everyone, 

I recently got my first car, a Lancer CS1 GLX YOM 2008 manual and brand new imported. I have gone through almost all the threads here about the cs and was very helpful. ? The car is in very good condition and didn't run in to any issues in last 4 months.

I could not find which octane type is recommended for the vehicle. Or Could not find an owner's manual in the internet. The previous owner has used 95 octane and I followed since.

Can anyone please let me know which is the recommended octane type for the vehicle. Much appreciated. ☺️

@Sampath Gunasekera @Davy

Fuel.thumb.JPEG.b76c2a31bbccafa4f0ccb6da1dcd1fae.JPEG

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  • 5 months later...

Already 2 years completed under my ownership and odo is now 123,500km.

Sorry for not updating the thread for a while. No special maintenance work carried out within the period, other than replacing the battery and few bulbs.

Saturday I had some troublesome experience at Kandy. I could not shift gear from “P” to other positions.

Immediately contacted Mr.Sisira Kumara (Service Advisor at Unit#d Mot#rs) and gentleman was very kind to help me over the phone giving instructions as follows, even it was a holiday for him.

(1)    Press the button on gear knob and check for some free play when it press.

(2)    If so, use shorter screw driver and remove two screws on gear knob. (Long screw driver cannot use here due to placement of CD changer)

(3)    Pull the knob up and then you can see white colour small plastic parts falling down. (Brittle)

(4)    Remove gear knob and now you can press the middle rod by your finger and can shift gears .

So I could manage to bring the vehicle to Colombo without a trouble.

The issue was due to damaged and ruptured Gear Shift Sleeve. It is a white colour plastic sleeve looks like a roll plug.

Mitsubishi part number is MR581866 (Sleeve, Gear) and cost was Rs.1,109/=.

Hence this sleeve replace and problem solved.

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Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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  • 1 month later...

Update: 11 years and 08 months in service,  125,855km done.

First cut & polish job done.

I was seeking a reliable person with good workmanship and patience. I noted one gentleman at Delpe Junction, Ragama and kept my eye on his jobs for last two months and noted that he is the person I was seeking.

Clearly asked him not to touch lamps, and cover all the necessary parts including all beading. (I had bad experience with cut and polish job done with my previous Viva Elite. They spoiled beading a lot) . Also asked him to cut and polish inner cavities of the Alloy wheels  as that area is a painted area already became dirty.

Gentleman was asking two complete days (he works alone) and Rs.9,000/= for the job. But I was so happy after seen the result and paid Rs.10,000/= him appreciating his quality service.

I can recommend this gentleman Mr. Sanjaya Kumara at 071-7156263 & 071-7906869 for a good job . (Hope this will not violate any forum rules)

Here you go latest update.

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Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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1 hour ago, GayanR said:

Just wandering how many cut & polish jobs you can get done before the paint goes away.

Think its depend on the depth they cut at a time. Once a painter said that it is possible to cut 3 times, if lacquer (clear coat) applied. But I am not sure about the original (factory) paint.

Edited by kusumsiri
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1 hour ago, GayanR said:

Just wandering how many cut & polish jobs you can get done before the paint goes away.

According to what I have read, the clear coat is about 2 mils thick (1 mil = 50 microns, 1 micron = 0.000001 meters)

To avoid premature clear coat failure it's not advised to remove more than 0.5 mils (25 microns) of clear coat for the lifetime of the vehicle Source

About 0.3mils of clear coat gets removed when you do a cut and polish Source

So, only 1 cut and polish if you want to stick to industry standards; but you can do it about 5 times before you take off the entire clear coat.

Edited by Hyaenidae
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The purpose of cut and polish is to remove small scratches and swirl marks embedded on clearcoat and rejuvenate the paint. They do this by removing a small layer from the clearcoat.So if the cut is too deep most of the clearcoat if not the entire clearcoat will be removed exposing the paint.So as @kusumsiri mentioned this depends on the depth of the cut.

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1 hour ago, Hyaenidae said:

You just spent 10k on a cut and polish, 1k being the tip, surely another 2k-3k ain't gonna break the bank

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000002460593.html

Ah , It is that cheap. I though it is a very expensive job. Thanks. Seems it is a nano technology.  A group of Sri Lankan university students (USJ) were on such project and I could not check their results for a while. (Nano coating for shoes if I am not mistaking)

Edited by Sampath Gunasekera
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17 minutes ago, Sampath Gunasekera said:

Ah , It is that cheap. I though it is a very expensive job. Thanks. Seems it is a nano technology.  A group of Sri Lankan university students (USJ) were on such project and I could not check their results for a while. (Nano coating for shoes if I am not mistaking)

Yep! since you've taken off a considerable amount of the clear coat off it'd be a good idea to replenish at least some of that with this ceramic coating. If you can get it done before the new scratch-free layer of clear coat accumulates scratches the glossy finish will last a long time too.

Edited by Hyaenidae
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17 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:

According to what I have read, the clear coat is about 2 mils thick (1 mil = 50 microns, 1 micron = 0.000001 meters)

To avoid premature clear coat failure it's not advised to remove more than 0.5 mils (25 microns) of clear coat for the lifetime of the vehicle Source

About 0.3mils of clear coat gets removed when you do a cut and polish Source

So, only 1 cut and polish if you want to stick to industry standards; but you can do it about 5 times before you take off the entire clear coat.

 

17 hours ago, K.o.N.o.S said:

The purpose of cut and polish is to remove small scratches and swirl marks embedded on clearcoat and rejuvenate the paint. They do this by removing a small layer from the clearcoat.So if the cut is too deep most of the clearcoat if not the entire clearcoat will be removed exposing the paint.So as @kusumsiri mentioned this depends on the depth of the cut.

 

17 hours ago, kusumsiri said:

Think its depend on the depth they cut at a time. Once a painter said that it is possible to cut 3 times, if lacquer (clear coat) applied. But I am not sure about the original (factory) paint.

But does the local guys measure how much they're going to cut?I have seen youtube videos where they measure depth of the paint with a small gadjet.

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52 minutes ago, GayanR said:

But does the local guys measure how much they're going to cut?I have seen youtube videos where they measure depth of the paint with a small gadjet

Naa, I don’t think we have that level of professionalism here (to my knowledge).I did one for my previous car and they didn’t bother to measure.Luckily the job went fine.I think this will require some skill which comes with experience. So you do not actually have to measure if you know exactly what you are doing. Btw @Sampath Gunasekera That looks like a job well done..?

Edited by K.o.N.o.S
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4 hours ago, GayanR said:

But does the local guys measure how much they're going to cut?I have seen youtube videos where they measure depth of the paint with a small gadjet.

I have seen around 20-30 cut and polish jobs doing by a knows person. But never seen using any measuring instrument. But they know whether the clear coat available to cut safely or not by the experience. I can agree with @K.o.N.o.S here.

Edited by kusumsiri
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5 hours ago, GayanR said:

 

 

But does the local guys measure how much they're going to cut?I have seen youtube videos where they measure depth of the paint with a small gadjet.

 

High-level repair stations such as D*MO / Platinum Auto Spa might be doing that, but not the average workshops

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6 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

I highly doubt that anyone can know if there is enough clearcoat to cut just by looking at it.

I am not saying their judgements are correct and remaining sufficient thickness (25 microns) after the job. Before start the job ff they have doubt, they slowly cut a corner (specially lower part of a panel) and check whether color coat coming up or not. Thats how they measure. :D

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