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mazraara

Honda Fit Gp1 Hybrid 2012 Knock/shake/jerk (Please Help)

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in my auto gear honda fit hybrid car, (mileage 56 000 KM)

I had a engine tune up and changed my injectors (8 injectors) last month and after 2 weeks i started getting a slight knock (jerk or shaking). i remember i have had this once or twice in the last 6 month but it wasnt noticeable and looked like to be as a miss. anyway, now everyday morning when i start the car and drive for like half and hour or hour, it goes smooth and nice. and then in a while it gives the knock. (the time is not fixed, some days in 45 minutes, and some days in 30 minutes and sometimes in 20 minutes after first starting to drive it comes)

The knock is like, when i stop at a traffic light and accelerate it comes. it only comes after a break or a stop and accelerate so it comes in low speed. then when driving with the knock, it gets a bit worst and knock (jerk or shaking) goes up, when i drive a little more it becomes more worse. then when i stop for few hours and start back then knock (jerk or shaking) is less and smoothness is bad. so i figured out this is something to do with a heat. when one of vehcile's part becomes very hot it gives the knock.

so i went to a small mechanic and as advised changed my Gear box oil (ATF). it didnt fix the issue.

then i took it to Honda company by when i got a check engine light and they told to run without the EGR valve, then i did it that and noticed that knock (jerk or shaking) is 50% less but car is not at all smooth. (it takes too much power and was hard) i felt so when driving. then they told to clean it the EGR and drive as the Honda company diagnosed EGR valve is causing trouble. after cleaning it didnt work, so as they told i changed the EGR valve which costed around 500$.

And then my vehicle was super smooth and very very comfortable to drive. later after few hours of driving here comes the same knock (jerk or shaking). which confused me. apart from that the honda company told this is not a problem with gear box, (which means they told its not a judgger)

Then i took it back to my local bass as he suspected it can also sometimes cause with fault fuel pump. then i changed that too. still the issue is not fixed.

Now after having a small internet research i found this is a bit common issue, but only issue is finding the exact issue is difficult. Now i am confused what to do,

Company told they will need to remove the transmission and see in the worst case. some times if its a damaged flyweel it can happen. so before taking it to any place anymore to repair i just want to get an experts advise here.

Should i check in to these things ?

  • Spark Plug Wires or Spark Plug
  • Starter clutch
  • ignition coil | coil packs
  • motor mount
  • flywheel

I really appreciate any feedback that will help me to sort out this issue.

Edited by mazraara

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so i went to a small mechanic and as advised changed my Gear box oil (ATF). it didnt fix the issue.

You mean the CVT oil right? Which brand of oil did you put?

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You mean the CVT oil right? Which brand of oil did you put?

CVT Genuine Honda, it looks a like orange or red. i confirmed it from the company they told oil is good. but they suggested another engine tune up which i already did at hybrid motors. i personally decided to not go to hybrid motors hereafter as they told i will have to replace the Gear Box which will cost around 175 thousand while stafford share told the gear box is at good stage and nothing to worry.

And to check and confirm if its a Gearbox issue or not, they need me to pay 48 thousand or so, by which i figured i will not come here again after speaking to those singapore so called engineers who didnt inspect very well but suggested to change the gear box in the worst case. he knew little compared to the engineer at staffordshare motors.

Edited by mazraara

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Did u checked the ecu readings of your MAF sensor (mass air flow sensor)?

How can i check that and know if MAS should be changed ?

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How can i check that and know if MAS should be changed ?

Usually want such things comes as warning lights in the dashboard ?

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Hi Friends, Yesterday i had a fuel pump change as well, but still the issue is there, please can somebody advise as what to do ? really appreciate. can this be a gear box issue with a burnt flywheel ?

Yesterday i had a test drive, from mount lavinia to fort.

When the car was started it went super smooth, after a while like 15 mins. the shaking came back when i stopped at a traffic and accelerated when green lit. (please note the shaking comes only when accelerating from a stop (when going from zero - 10/20 kmh). its not shaking when i am holding the break or its not shaking when the vehicle is idle.

then at almost every stop light, when i accelerated it came. and when i took of the leg from gas pedal and pressed again, it went but not smooth as early.

Then at 60 speed i noticed RPM at 3 and car was like going in gear 1 or 2.

Then at 80 speed also i noticed RPM at 3 and car was like going in gear 1 or 2.

after that vehicle was back to a drivable state but shake was there still after a stop or break when accelerating.

Can anybody provide some advice based on my latest information please?

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When the car was started it went super smooth, after a while like 15 mins. the shaking came back when i stopped at a traffic and accelerated when green lit. (please note the shaking comes only when accelerating from a stop (when going from zero - 10/20 kmh). its not shaking when i am holding the break or its not shaking when the vehicle is idle.

Have You checked your mounts?

It seems to be that the issue of Jerks more likely to be occurring from either Gear Box or Engine Mounts, as clearly you state the Jerk does not occur during engine idle. And varies during a stop and go it's more likely to be broken mount(s).

Does you engine Idle Stop function work perfect?

Do you also tend to shift between either Park or Neutral during your stops in traffic / stop lights, In my previous experience the mounts wear of quicker when you tend to shift gears in a rush. I.e trying to wheel spin / Change gears and step on the Gas before the gear has shifted as soon as the light hits green.

Have your mounts closely checked / inspected prior to dismantling your gear box.

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Where are you from? I would suggest you not take the car to random mechanics and replace parts such as fuel pump on a trial and error basis. If you are from around Kandy I can give you a contact of the place I take my car to for diagnosis.

(please note the shaking comes only when accelerating from a stop (when going from zero - 10/20 kmh). its not shaking when i am holding the break or its not shaking when the vehicle is idle.

According to this, the issue ONLY appears when you are accelerating from 0? It does not come during idle, it does not come when you hold the break but does it come at any point while you are cruising and not accelerating from a stop?

Also, when you changed the CVT oil, how many liters of it did you use? And do you know the mileage and type of oil used when last time CVT oil was changed before you changed it?

Edited by ramishkad
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Have You checked your mounts?

It seems to be that the issue of Jerks more likely to be occurring from either Gear Box or Engine Mounts, as clearly you state the Jerk does not occur during engine idle. And varies during a stop and go it's more likely to be broken mount(s).

Does you engine Idle Stop function work perfect?

Do you also tend to shift between either Park or Neutral during your stops in traffic / stop lights, In my previous experience the mounts wear of quicker when you tend to shift gears in a rush. I.e trying to wheel spin / Change gears and step on the Gas before the gear has shifted as soon as the light hits green.

Have your mounts closely checked / inspected prior to dismantling your gear box.

Thanks for the reply, the mechanic told if the mounts were faulty, then it will vibrate and car wont go smooth as its going. so didnt check the engine mounts.

I am sorry i have used the wrong word, after some google i found the correct word is BUCKING. car is bucking when starting from a stop position. Does not do it all the time. but when does it annoys. from mount lavinia to fort it bucked 6 times. :(

My engine idle stop function works fine.

Do you also tend to shift between either Park or Neutral during your stops in traffic / stop lights ? - NO I DONT. I'll just stay with breaks.

Here are the similar threads i found.

http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/troubleshooting-problems/40673-2011-hybrid-hesitating-bucking.html

http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/engine-%22bucking%22-2386687/

Edited by mazraara

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Where are you from? I would suggest you not take the car to random mechanics and replace parts such as fuel pump on a trial and error basis. If you are from around Kandy I can give you a contact of the place I take my car to for diagnosis.

According to this, the issue ONLY appears when you are accelerating from 0? It does not come during idle, it does not come when you hold the break but does it come at any point while you are cruising and not accelerating from a stop?

Also, when you changed the CVT oil, how many liters of it did you use? And do you know the mileage and type of oil used when last time CVT oil was changed before you changed it?

Yes you are correct and i haven't done crusing from a stop. i dont think its possible in my GP 1 hybrid.

in simple terms, it bucks when starting from a stop position and sometimes randomly the RPM also goes up in lower gears.

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What is the final Diagnosis Stafford Motors gave you after you changed the EGR valve and it didnt solve the issue? Did they connect the Honda Diagnostic System to the car and did they say if there were any error codes logged?

Did you mention the RPM variation issue to Stafford?

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What is the final Diagnosis Stafford Motors gave you after you changed the EGR valve and it didnt solve the issue? Did they connect the Honda Diagnostic System to the car and did they say if there were any error codes logged?

Did you mention the RPM variation issue to Stafford?

They told the error code was with EGR. so after changing that near personal vehicle repairer (bcz EGR valve is a bit expensive, got a second hand one which is almost new without any carbon, imported part from a condemn vehicle) i took it back for a engine tune up yesterday to stafford and they told there is no error codes shown and not all problems will show an error code, only electrical will show and most mechanical problems wont show up. but since issue remains after the engine tune up they asked me to replace a new EGR valve from them as they think that will fix the problem as its a common issue for GP1 Models. i am confused with what they said. sounded unreliable.

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They told the error code was with EGR. so after changing that near personal vehicle repairer (bcz EGR valve is a bit expensive, got a second hand one which is almost new without any carbon, imported part from a condemn vehicle) i took it back for a engine tune up yesterday to stafford and they told there is no error codes shown and not all problems will show an error code, only electrical will show and most mechanical problems wont show up. but since issue remains after the engine tune up they asked me to replace a new EGR valve from them as they think that will fix the problem as its a common issue for GP1 Models. i am confused with what they said. sounded unreliable.

There is a similar issue a friend in autolanka forum had, check here http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16400-egr-valve-honda-fit-hybrid/

If i replace the EGR valve from a same gp1 type working model and if it works, will it be a good thing to do ?

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Hi why dont you first trying cleaning the EGR Valve.<br/>

<br/>

Watch "Cleaning your EGR Valve" on YouTube<br/>

Cleaning your EGR Valve: <a href='

'>
</a> Edited by Emac
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Hi,

I had the same issue in my Honda Fit Hybrid GP1 2012. I took the car to the agent himself and they fixed it by cleaning the EGR valve. This had occurred due to unburnt fuel particles which were blocking the valve from performing its job appropriately.

EGR valve basically controls flow of exhaust gas into the combustion chamber. That is either directing gas to the combustion chamber or blocking gas from entering the combustion chamber by opening and closing the valve respectively. When the fuel we pump are low in its cleanliness, then there could be certain particles that are not burnt or partially burnt which will ultimately get saturated and block the EGR valve either partially or fully. In which case, when attempting to accelerate, even though the engine expects EGR valve to pump more gas to the combustion chamber, it will not be able to send sufficient amounts as this valve is blocked by these carbon particles. Hence, there will be a jerk or a miss in the vehicle when attempting to accelerate.

As a precaution it is always advisable to pump 95 octane petrol or a type of petrol which is of better quality but this will not surely eliminate the risk of recurrence as we cannot provide an assurance for the actual quality of fuel available in the market.

In my case, I have been pumping only 95 octane petrol but I had to get my EGR valve cleaned too.

I am not sure whether we both are referring to the same issue, but mine also had similar symptoms as mentioned by mazraara.

As the fix the agent proposed me two options.
1. Get the EGR valve cleaned (this fixed my issue)
2. Get the EGR valve replaced

In my case, the option1 above worked.

Hope this detail will be of some use to you smile.gif
 
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On 7/14/2015 at 3:52 PM, mazraara said:

any one out there having had the same issue ?

Yes, i do having same issu

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Does anyone knows a good Honda hybrid workshop in Kandy,

In my 2012 Honda GP1 the following issue is there.

Any help is highly appreciated.

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