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Engine Oil Overfill


Jor-el

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Today morning when checking the engine oil level found out that the service center has over-filled the engine oil approximately 1cm above the "max" mark.

Will this affect badly to the engine in the long run guys?

Edited by Jor-el
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It might affect your engine depending on whether or not the oil level is high enough for the crank to slap oil excessively to make air bubbles. If the oil gets frothed up, the air bubbles may reduce the lubricating properties of oil. Since the next oil change is after another 5000km better to make a complain with UM and get them to correct the level back to normal.

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Agree with Rumesh. It depends on whether 1cm on the dipstick is actually high enough to cause the crank to dip itself in oil. This is why there is a min and a max level - so overfilling can be as bad as running low on oil. I'd also advise to get the oil level lowered to the max level.

This is a bad practice in service stations in Sri Lanka. Service personnel are persistent on filling "a little bit more so that the filter gets filled up". In all those occasions, I insist that I will check the level the next morning and do the adjustments myself. It's easier to top up rather than drain out after all.

The oil level on the dipstick will never indicate correctly just as soon as oil is filled up, and the level is bound to be a bit higher. So filling it up to "max" means that there is still some oil being drained down which will bring the level above "max" later.

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Three things come to mind on the matter:

1. In all the owners car manuals I've read; there are warning all over the place telling one not to overfill the engine oil levels as it could cause damage to the catalytic converter blah, blah , blah and what not. As those parts are expensive to replace and since decreasing the oil level is a quick process I'd just drain some oil out without risking it. The volume of oil between min and the max level corresponds to 1 litre usually. As most dip sticks are around 5-8 cm between the indicator markings you would need to remove around 100ml to 150ml I figuare.

2. If I saw the dip stick indicating a higher than recommended oil level at the service station I would be getting the service guy to drain some out and refill accordingly. I'd want the oil to be close to the high mark but not over it before I drive off again. If I saw it at home after I left the service station I'd just do it myself as it would be faster than going back to deal with the idiot at the service station who filled my oil: Jack the car up, stick an old pan or oil pan under the car and loosen the drain plug. The volume of oil between min and the max level corresponds to 1 litre. So expect to tighten the drain nut up as soon as it gets loose and drains about 100ml to 150ml of oil out.Tighten it back up again and check the oil levels and add oil if needed.

3. I always change the oil filter. As this was a free service I guess the agents / dealer was being cheap. No big deal. But since the oil filter is a key component in protecting the engine, against containments and since it holds a bit of oil that would contaminate the new clean oil going in I would have paid out of pocket and asked them to stick a new filter in. But as you say in the long run its no big deal.

Edited by Kavvz
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Kavvz only the labour charge is pocketed by UM; customer have to pay for the oil and components replaced.

Guys, thanks for all your comments. Guy has removed excess oil himself by using a 1/8 inch hose and a syringer :D

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Kavvz only the labour charge is pocketed by UM; customer have to pay for the oil and components replaced.

Guys, thanks for all your comments. Guy has removed excess oil himself by using a 1/8 inch hose and a syringer :D

Ah! Smart. Why didn't that occur to me. Must faster and way less messy!

Edited by Kavvz
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On 7/8/2015 at 7:31 PM, Kavvz said:

Ah! Smart. Why didn't that occur to me. Must faster and way less messy!

Yep he had collected oil to a 375ml bottle.

About 250-300ml of oil was removed.

 

Edited by Jor-el
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Yep he had collected oil to a 375ml bottle.

About 250-300ml of oil was removed.

uzhVAZu.jpg

Isn't the oil too dark for a almost new car or is it just how it shows up in the pic? BTW this is what can happen to the replaced oil if you do not replace the oil filter or drain all the sludge at the bottom. I may sound a bit crazy ( I wouldn't be in this forum if I am not, would I? :D) and seem obsessed, but this is why I chose to change engine oil DIY (it is messy and not everyone's cup of tea, I know) long time ago. The last thing I want to see is the replaced oil getting discolored immediately after an oil change. In this case of course it is a free service which doesn't leave much choice to the owner.

Edit: Remember everything that is free in this world comes with its own drawbacks.

Edited by Rumesh88
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Well they didnt change the oil filter, maybe that describe the discoloration... I wonder why they didnt change it, if they did customer would have to pay for the filter (only the labour is free)

So much for "agent maintained" cars... sigh...

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Well they didnt change the oil filter, maybe that describe the discoloration... I wonder why they didnt change it, if they did customer would have to pay for the filter (only the labour is free)

So much for "agent maintained" cars... sigh...

That means it is in fact discolored. Did they really replace oil? It is a new car we are talking about here. Oil should not get discolored to an appreciable extent even after 5000km. At a place where they queue up vehicles for servicing, I wouldn't be surprised if they mistakenly forget to change oil! Did your friend really witnessed the oil change?

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That means it is in fact discolored. Did they really replace oil? It is a new car we are talking about here. Oil should not get discolored to an appreciable extent even after 5000km. At a place where they queue up vehicles for servicing, I wouldn't be surprised if they mistakenly forget to change oil! Did your friend really witnessed the oil change?

I was there, I saw them changing oil. :)

Oil seems fine when its spread. ( when dipstick is taken out the oil on dipstick is not discoloured.)

I'll try to post a pic of the dipstick.

Edited by Jor-el
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I was there, I saw them changing oil. :)

Oil seems fine when its spread. ( when dipstick is taken out the oil on dipstick is not discoloured.)

I'll try to post a pic of the dipstick.

Then there is nothing to worry. I was just speculating the worst that can happen.

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Isn't the oil too dark for a almost new car or is it just how it shows up in the pic? BTW this is what can happen to the replaced oil if you do not replace the oil filter or drain all the sludge at the bottom. I may sound a bit crazy ( I wouldn't be in this forum if I am not, would I? :D) and seem obsessed, but this is why I chose to change engine oil DIY (it is messy and not everyone's cup of tea, I know) long time ago. The last thing I want to see is the replaced oil getting discolored immediately after an oil change. In this case of course it is a free service which doesn't leave much choice to the owner.

Edit: Remember everything that is free in this world comes with its own drawbacks.

Dear Rumesh88

if manufacture of the filter says its good for more than 10,000Km what should be the good practice to reuse the same filter ? also how to properly drain all sludge out at home if possible? Is drain applicable to manual gear box too ?

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Dear Rumesh88

if manufacture of the filter says its good for more than 10,000Km what should be the good practice to reuse the same filter ? also how to properly drain all sludge out at home if possible? Is drain applicable to manual gear box too ?

In fact the filter manufacturer cannot decide on the service life of a filter. It depends on the quality and durability of oil that is used, driving conditions, engine temperature (higher the engine temperature quicker the breakdown of oil), condition of the engine, extent of the engine wear etc. For a new engine (after the break in run, if applicable) perhaps the 10000km service life may apply in general but you cannot say the same for an engine that has done over 100K kms. However if you intend to use the existing filter at least remove it and drain all the oil before fixing it back again. If you want to drain all the sludge that settles at the bottom of the oil pan you must drain oil while it is still warm and use compressed air to blow out the remaining as much as possible. Then pour a little fresh oil and drain all that too. Usually I leave the car to drain all the oil overnight although it is a bit too extreme. (We refer to engine oil here not to gear oil BTW. You need to change manual gear box oil too but that's a different service interval).

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Well they didnt change the oil filter, maybe that describe the discoloration... I wonder why they didnt change it, if they did customer would have to pay for the filter (only the labour is free)

So much for "agent maintained" cars... sigh...

You can say THAT again! Buggers can't be trusted to get the oil quantity right, let alone be trusted to follow the maintenance schedules!! And DCSL half bottles huh>? Interesting evenings you and your friend must have. No wonder the dude can be trusted to spring up with a syringe and rise to the occasion like a champ. He's effectively killed off all the stupid brain cells and only has the good ones left... ;)

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In fact the filter manufacturer cannot decide on the service life of a filter. It depends on the quality and durability of oil that is used, driving conditions, engine temperature (higher the engine temperature quicker the breakdown of oil), condition of the engine, extent of the engine wear etc. For a new engine (after the break in run, if applicable) perhaps the 10000km service life may apply in general but you cannot say the same for an engine that has done over 100K kms. However if you intend to use the existing filter at least remove it and drain all the oil before fixing it back again. If you want to drain all the sludge that settles at the bottom of the oil pan you must drain oil while it is still warm and use compressed air to blow out the remaining as much as possible. Then pour a little fresh oil and drain all that too. Usually I leave the car to drain all the oil overnight although it is a bit too extreme. (We refer to engine oil here not to gear oil BTW. You need to change manual gear box oil too but that's a different service interval).

Thanks for advice Rumesh88, also

i used to fill with Castrol GTX 20W-50 - interval 4000Km

Filter ACdelco or Mann - interval 10,000Km as for manufactures but i used to change filter after 8000Km

gearbox bottom plate has lot off bolts and can be remove , clean gearbox oil sump. so if i continue what to look after since it is DIY ?

Edited by aps
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Thanks for advice Rumesh88, also

i used to fill with Castrol GTX 20W-50 - interval 4000Km

Filter ACdelco or Mann - interval 10,000Km as for manufactures but i used to change filter after 8000Km

gearbox bottom plate has lot off bolts and can be remove , clean gearbox oil sump. so if i continue what to look after since it is DIY ?

You mean an ATF change I guess. It is a bit of a messy thing but if you do not mind getting your hands dirty with a lot of used ATF why not? But keep in mind when you remove the pan you will have to replace the packing and perhaps the ATF filter too if you are to complete the job. Also keep in mind you will have a little more than 1L of used ATF left in the trans-converter. You may drain the fluid first through the drain plug. Then you can unscrew the bottom pan and carefully pry the pan out (you will have some oil left on the pan and this may get spilled everywhere). Better if you can approximately measure the ATF removed so that you can fill up the same volume. Inspect the pan for evidence of small metal and fibre particles. If you have lot of such particles days of your AT could be numbered. Then the pan and the magnets on the bottom of the pan can be cleaned (better if you can use a lint-free cloth or paper towels) by just wiping. If you intend to replace the filter it can be done at this stage. It is not advisable to remove it just for cleaning.

Then you can fix the pan back with the new packing but please keep in mind that the 10mm bolts that hold the pan should not be tightened with a ratchet or a spanner. Instead use a nut driver or better still a torque wrench. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern across the pan body making sure that they are tightened with an equal torque (if using a tool set it to 30 to 40 N-m but refer to your manual for exact specs). Now fill up with fresh ATF (same volume that you drained) and start the engine. Keep it running for a few minutes for it to reach its working temperature. Then cycle the gears through P>R>N>D>... back an forth a few times stopping at each position for a few seconds. Check the ATF level and adjust if necessary. Then you are done! (Trust I didn't miss anything!)

Edited by Rumesh88
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Rumesh88

forgot to tell It has manual box, and only level nut, no drain nut,can unscrew the bottom pan,

did nearly 30,000Km now with 2 top-ups (no history from previous owners)

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  • 1 year later...
2 hours ago, tcfern1 said:

My car is toyota vitz 2015 model.yesterday i changed engine oil at a reputed service station.after came home checked the dipstick.the oil is is above 4mm of the maximum mark.

Is it ok?

Can you please search the forum before posting questions? This has been discussed before. Read this thread.

Threads merged.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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