Advice On Buying A 1994-95 Model Pajero Intercooler Turbo 2800

[Dafunkdi]

Hi Everyone,

I'm seriousely interested in buying a 1994-95 model Mitsubishi Pajero Intercooler Turbo 2800. I have loved this vehicle since I was a kid & need the advice & support in making this purchase decision since I havent used any SUV or any Mitsubishi vehicle in the past. Therefore its a new experience for me.

Please be kind enough to advice on all aspects such as price, fuel efficiency, mechanical issues known for, driving experience, availability of parts etc on this vehicle. Your support is sincerely appreciated.

Thank you.

[The Don]

I can't comment on driving experience, but here are a few things to consider.

1. Its now about 20 years old, and will have been driven many miles. You need to ensure that the engine is in good nick and any rebuilds done previously was done well. You also need to inspect the turbo.

2. There are a few vehicles where the bodies have been replaced. You need to make sure the vehicle you are buying is an original intercooler 2800 as many have had conversions.

3. They were fairly reliable rugged workhorses with few manufacturing defects, the only issue is age. Mechanical parts will be fairly easy to find, as they were shared with other vehicles but body parts will start to become an issue though I don't think its a problem yet.

4. If you need to ask about fuel efficiency, then buying a big 4WD is probably not the right decision

5. Prices have gone down a bit. I've noted they go for a little north of 4 million, but everything is negotiable in SL.

6. As for driving experience, reasonably comfortable but with some body roll as you find in most Jap SUVs

[Dafunkdi]

I can't comment on driving experience, but here are a few things to consider.

1. Its now about 20 years old, and will have been driven many miles. You need to ensure that the engine is in good nick and any rebuilds done previously was done well. You also need to inspect the turbo.

2. There are a few vehicles where the bodies have been replaced. You need to make sure the vehicle you are buying is an original intercooler 2800 as many have had conversions.

3. They were fairly reliable rugged workhorses with few manufacturing defects, the only issue is age. Mechanical parts will be fairly easy to find, as they were shared with other vehicles but body parts will start to become an issue though I don't think its a problem yet.

4. If you need to ask about fuel efficiency, then buying a big 4WD is probably not the right decision

5. Prices have gone down a bit. I've noted they go for a little north of 4 million, but everything is negotiable in SL.

6. As for driving experience, reasonably comfortable but with some body roll as you find in most Jap SUVs

Thank you very much Don. Your sincere advice is greatly appreciated. I really want to use a proper SUV & I think the new Monteros are not proper off road vehicles. I hope the Pajero intercooler will function well at least for the next 10 years without any shortage of parts.

[Dinukap4]

Thank you very much Don. Your sincere advice is greatly appreciated. I really want to use a proper SUV & I think the new Monteros are not proper off road vehicles. I hope the Pajero intercooler will function well at least for the next 10 years without any shortage of parts.

Non of the vehicles you stated are PROPER offraod SUV's, that would be a Jeep Grand Cherokee, Toyota Land Cruisers, Range Rover. What you are talking about is widely know as the 'Mahathaya Model' these have very very reliable engines but now 98% of them are shagged and the other 2% are 1st owners and they will never sell them off. I would highly suggest you to go for the early 2000's these aren't bad might be slightly comfortable and more technological as well. Mind you the Montero's what ever the year they are utter Shi* at comfortability. And don't forget these are 20 years and older the number of spare parts begin brought in are reducing I know in fact our 16 years in the family toyota Hiace LH103 we had to go to a walk around to find some parts as we did a re-build recently.

[Dafunkdi]

Non of the vehicles you stated are PROPER offraod SUV's, that would be a Jeep Grand Cherokee, Toyota Land Cruisers, Range Rover. What you are talking about is widely know as the 'Mahathaya Model' these have very very reliable engines but now 98% of them are shagged and the other 2% are 1st owners and they will never sell them off. I would highly suggest you to go for the early 2000's these aren't bad might be slightly comfortable and more technological as well. Mind you the Montero's what ever the year they are utter Shi* at comfortability. And don't forget these are 20 years and older the number of spare parts begin brought in are reducing I know in fact our 16 years in the family toyota Hiace LH103 we had to go to a walk around to find some parts as we did a re-build recently.

Thanks Dinuka for your advice. What I meant was not the Mahaththaya model but the previous one. What you said regarding ownership was true since most of the vehicles I checked out were at least 3 owners or above. Its not easy to find a mint condition one.

[iRage]

LOL...that is yhe firdt time I ever heard the Grand Cherokee being called a propper off roading SUV. At least a Wrangler or an old Cherokee I can vunderstand but a GC?

What u r looking at is the V40 series Pajero pre-facelift (Mitdubisji's direct comoetitor to the Land Cruiser).The thing was all over the place in East Timor. It was the last Pajero to have a body onframe construction. Quite capable off road but like the Don mentioned has quite dome body roll and understeers(not surprising actually). If you go for a wagon versionit is reasonably comfortable (altjough nit as comfortable as the newer models which has a unibody construction, and purists claim is less cspable and durable...each on their own on that one). Driveability wise.. well it was ok. But go for the 2800 TDI or the 3000 petrol. There was a 2500 diesel variantwhich lacked power.

Issues wise double check the Super Select 4wd system. It uses a vacuum system for and solanoids and sensors which has a tendency to pack-up over time (most i have seen were due to non usage). Check if the 4wd lights keep blinking erratically and that the lights and power to the wheels engage and disengage accordingly. The lightsnot going off or blinking even when the 4wd is turned off are signs of ths vacuum/sensor/solenoid issue

[Dinukap4]

LOL...that is yhe firdt time I ever heard the Grand Cherokee being called a propper off roading SUV. At least a Wrangler or an old Cherokee I can vunderstand but a GC?

What u r looking at is the V40 series Pajero pre-facelift (Mitdubisji's direct comoetitor to the Land Cruiser).The thing was all over the place in East Timor. It was the last Pajero to have a body onframe construction. Quite capable off road but like the Don mentioned has quite dome body roll and understeers(not surprising actually). If you go for a wagon versionit is reasonably comfortable (altjough nit as comfortable as the newer models which has a unibody construction, and purists claim is less cspable and durable...each on their own on that one). Driveability wise.. well it was ok. But go for the 2800 TDI or the 3000 petrol. There was a 2500 diesel variantwhich lacked power.

Issues wise double check the Super Select 4wd system. It uses a vacuum system for and solanoids and sensors which has a tendency to pack-up over time (most i have seen were due to non usage). Check if the 4wd lights keep blinking erratically and that the lights and power to the wheels engage and disengage accordingly. The lightsnot going off or blinking even when the 4wd is turned off are signs of ths vacuum/sensor/solenoid issue

'lol' I can't argue with that.

[Dafunkdi]

LOL...that is yhe firdt time I ever heard the Grand Cherokee being called a propper off roading SUV. At least a Wrangler or an old Cherokee I can vunderstand but a GC?

What u r looking at is the V40 series Pajero pre-facelift (Mitdubisji's direct comoetitor to the Land Cruiser).The thing was all over the place in East Timor. It was the last Pajero to have a body onframe construction. Quite capable off road but like the Don mentioned has quite dome body roll and understeers(not surprising actually). If you go for a wagon versionit is reasonably comfortable (altjough nit as comfortable as the newer models which has a unibody construction, and purists claim is less cspable and durable...each on their own on that one). Driveability wise.. well it was ok. But go for the 2800 TDI or the 3000 petrol. There was a 2500 diesel variantwhich lacked power.

Issues wise double check the Super Select 4wd system. It uses a vacuum system for and solanoids and sensors which has a tendency to pack-up over time (most i have seen were due to non usage). Check if the 4wd lights keep blinking erratically and that the lights and power to the wheels engage and disengage accordingly. The lightsnot going off or blinking even when the 4wd is turned off are signs of ths vacuum/sensor/solenoid issue

Thanks iRage for your advice. I had no idea regarding this super select 4WD system. I'm searching 2800cc diesel since the petrol version is not feasible in today's conditions. One person suggested me to get a year 2000 model Pajero GDI & convert it to a diesel, since there won't be a big difference in cost. I'm not sure as to how this will be successful & I kind of don't like design of the Montero.

[iRage]

Well the 2000 model is the third gen pajero (V70 / V60 series) which is a unibody design. I find it more comfy on road than the previous model but less rugged and more "vibraty" off road than the prev model. The GDI V70 3500 goes like a bat out of hell. I owned a V75 for 5 months but got fid of it as i loved my Toyota Surf too much! Same issue with super select system. There are connectors underneath the car on the transfer case that can get damaged or clogged with debris. Again 4wd light on the meter panel goes mad.

Onething i forgot to mention about the v40 seriez pajero is that,if i remember properly, the alternator??? which is in ths bottom of fhe engine is prone to going bad if the car bas seen lot of river/mud crossings and not taken care of properly. But that is somsthing u would face with any poorly maintained off roader that has been off roading. Plenty of resources online for both models including diagrams, service manuals,etc...

[john cooper]

I had 3 of them

V44 - 1995 Model NZ New 5 Door flat roof

2500 cc 4D56 Engine 5 Speed manual with Super Select 4WD, round light, Sunroof 5 Seat

V46 - 1993 and 1995 Both Jap import 5 Door flat roof

2835 cc 4M40 Engine Auto trans with SS 4WD with C. Diff lock, got sun roof duel line A/C 7 Seat

As iRage pointed, the 4WD blinking issue is common for 20 years old truck, and its an easy fix if 4wd engage and disengage but check below and start from the top

- Check the condition of the cooling system as 4M40 engine got few water lines running here and their which get blocked or corroded if not maintain properly

- Check underneath and see how bad the oil leaks are, its common to have leaks (If clock says 100,k for a 20 years old Truck its a true lie) when engine touch 200k, My experience this can run more than 300k if you maintain well

- Check the edge of the sun roof for any sign of rust (its a big deal if the roof need to fix as it need to strip down the hood lining) Pull the rubber and check if possible

- Check the condition of the turbo and amount of smoke changing the gear

- This model got the adjustable shocks and due to replacement cost in SL most been pulled out and replaced with GAS shocks BUT check if you can see the controller on top of the shock then do this, turn the key on and turn the shocks adjustment switch to soft mid hard and ask some one to listen if the controller makes a noise of a running motor, if its not working for 1 side test drive will be like a boat ride

If the system works fine then it is more comfortable than a PRADO or Safari

Last time its cost me $1200 just for the shocks,

- Check for the steering play, (If it's a small play you can adjust from the top screw on the Steering box)

- Check for the back diff whine (Too much 4WD fun with C/ Diff on cause this)

Used as my club day Truck until replaced with a Bighorn and never let me down, works well for me and does the job always, Had tons of fun with them, but for 4wd long wheel base is not that good and also Jero is lack of ground clearance compared to others

Engines:

Diesel: 4D56 Turbo or Intercool turbo, 4M40 Intercool turbo

Gasoline: V6 3000 cc ECI- Multi, DOCH 24 V6 3500cc

Please correct me if i am wrong with the information, and this is my personnel experience

regards

JC

Edited August 30, 2014 by john cooper

[Dafunkdi]

Well the 2000 model is the third gen pajero (V70 / V60 series) which is a unibody design. I find it more comfy on road than the previous model but less rugged and more "vibraty" off road than the prev model. The GDI V70 3500 goes like a bat out of hell. I owned a V75 for 5 months but got fid of it as i loved my Toyota Surf too much! Same issue with super select system. There are connectors underneath the car on the transfer case that can get damaged or clogged with debris. Again 4wd light on the meter panel goes mad.

Onething i forgot to mention about the v40 seriez pajero is that,if i remember properly, the alternator??? which is in ths bottom of fhe engine is prone to going bad if the car bas seen lot of river/mud crossings and not taken care of properly. But that is somsthing u would face with any poorly maintained off roader that has been off roading. Plenty of resources online for both models including diagrams, service manuals,etc...

Thanks iRage for your comments. Sincerely appreciate it. What do you think is a better choice?

1. A Pajero imported brand new with no modifications or adjustments done.

2. A pajero where everything from the body to engine is put into a pajero intercooler frame, I mean adjusted & modified.

Option 1 seems to be hardly used while option condition is much better.

[Dafunkdi]

I had 3 of them

V44 - 1995 Model NZ New 5 Door flat roof

2500 cc 4D56 Engine 5 Speed manual with Super Select 4WD, round light, Sunroof 5 Seat

V46 - 1993 and 1995 Both Jap import 5 Door flat roof

2835 cc 4M40 Engine Auto trans with SS 4WD with C. Diff lock, got sun roof duel line A/C 7 Seat

As iRage pointed, the 4WD blinking issue is common for 20 years old truck, and its an easy fix if 4wd engage and disengage but check below and start from the top

- Check the condition of the cooling system as 4M40 engine got few water lines running here and their which get blocked or corroded if not maintain properly

- Check underneath and see how bad the oil leaks are, its common to have leaks (If clock says 100,k for a 20 years old Truck its a true lie) when engine touch 200k, My experience this can run more than 300k if you maintain well

- Check the edge of the sun roof for any sign of rust (its a big deal if the roof need to fix as it need to strip down the hood lining) Pull the rubber and check if possible

- Check the condition of the turbo and amount of smoke changing the gear

- This model got the adjustable shocks and due to replacement cost in SL most been pulled out and replaced with GAS shocks BUT check if you can see the controller on top of the shock then do this, turn the key on and turn the shocks adjustment switch to soft mid hard and ask some one to listen if the controller makes a noise of a running motor, if its not working for 1 side test drive will be like a boat ride

If the system works fine then it is more comfortable than a PRADO or Safari

Last time its cost me $1200 just for the shocks,

- Check for the steering play, (If it's a small play you can adjust from the top screw on the Steering box)

- Check for the back diff whine (Too much 4WD fun with C/ Diff on cause this)

Used as my club day Truck until replaced with a Bighorn and never let me down, works well for me and does the job always, Had tons of fun with them, but for 4wd long wheel base is not that good and also Jero is lack of ground clearance compared to others

Engines:

Diesel: 4D56 Turbo or Intercool turbo, 4M40 Intercool turbo

Gasoline: V6 3000 cc ECI- Multi, DOCH 24 V6 3500cc

Please correct me if i am wrong with the information, and this is my personnel experience

regards

JC

Thanks John Cooper for your valuable advice. It was clear as reading a tutorial. I hope you never had any frequent repairs during your usage. Thanks again

[john cooper]

Thanks John Cooper for your valuable advice. It was clear as reading a tutorial. I hope you never had any frequent repairs during your usage. Thanks again

For all 3 i had to do the ball joints, oil seals and wheel bearings this is due to too many mud bogs and sand dunes

[Magnum]

Funny thing is I have seen ones which are still unregistered

[Dafunkdi]

Funny thing is I have seen ones which are still unregistered

Magnum they are the ones bought from the ports authority auction. They were not cleared for many years & were idling in the warehouse for so long. Some are having even KX numbers.

[Magnum]

Magnum they are the ones bought from the ports authority auction. They were not cleared for many years & were idling in the warehouse for so long. Some are having even KX numbers.

oh harbor auctioned ones, if i remember right theres a way to spot the harbor auctioned ones.

bdw the JDM models came with auto gearbox and i heard they have more feaures too

[iRage]

oh harbor auctioned ones, if i remember right theres a way to spot the harbor auctioned ones.

bdw the JDM models came with auto gearbox and i heard they have more feaures too

I think I read on AL forums that the chassis numbers were cut ? or something inscribed ? and something to do with the book ?

The JDM also came in 5MT form. Granted I believe it was easier to find an AT than a MT and even then most MTs were of lower grade ?

[Dafunkdi]

oh harbor auctioned ones, if i remember right theres a way to spot the harbor auctioned ones.

bdw the JDM models came with auto gearbox and i heard they have more feaures too

Magnum what you said is right. The JDM's were mostly automatic & had kind of better features such as automatic AC's too. But most of them also lacked the Jerry can that was a must for this vehicle.

[The Don]

I think I read on AL forums that the chassis numbers were cut ? or something inscribed ? and something to do with the book ?

The JDM also came in 5MT form. Granted I believe it was easier to find an AT than a MT and even then most MTs were of lower grade ?

Chassis numbers are cut on vehicles sold purely for parts. The others were sold with the relevant documentation for registration.

Also buying any model of pajero requires you to be vigilant, as they were plenty of ones bought under so called body permits. Make sure whatever version you get, the documents are in proper order and if possible verify with the RMV.

[Dafunkdi]

LOL...that is yhe firdt time I ever heard the Grand Cherokee being called a propper off roading SUV. At least a Wrangler or an old Cherokee I can vunderstand but a GC?

What u r looking at is the V40 series Pajero pre-facelift (Mitdubisji's direct comoetitor to the Land Cruiser).The thing was all over the place in East Timor. It was the last Pajero to have a body onframe construction. Quite capable off road but like the Don mentioned has quite dome body roll and understeers(not surprising actually). If you go for a wagon versionit is reasonably comfortable (altjough nit as comfortable as the newer models which has a unibody construction, and purists claim is less cspable and durable...each on their own on that one). Driveability wise.. well it was ok. But go for the 2800 TDI or the 3000 petrol. There was a 2500 diesel variantwhich lacked power.

Issues wise double check the Super Select 4wd system. It uses a vacuum system for and solanoids and sensors which has a tendency to pack-up over time (most i have seen were due to non usage). Check if the 4wd lights keep blinking erratically and that the lights and power to the wheels engage and disengage accordingly. The lightsnot going off or blinking even when the 4wd is turned off are signs of ths vacuum/sensor/solenoid issue

Dear iRage,

Yesterday I checked out a pajero intercooler shortwheel version which was in a really good condition compared to all intercoolers I've checked out. It had this issue you mentioned where 4WD lights kept on blinking. Is it a major repair issue with a large cost involved or a quick fix? What is you idea to the best of your knowledge?

[iRage]

Well hard to say it ciuld be justa sensor/solanoid gone bad or g7nky to a simple vacuum leak to the actual vacuum oumo gone bad. Obviously the first few causes are the cheapest to the latter being the costliest. Ni idea what the part prices would be in SL. Eitherway not a complicated issue. J7st requires some wirk to get it fixed. Sometimes the light bl7nk issue comes up when the 4wd is not used and it just goes away when u use it for for sometime as the vacuum gets builtup/flown through the system (i know sounds fairy tale-ish butdid happen to two ujits at my old office). Did the 4wd get engaged although the light blinked crazy? If it got engaged it could be just a sensor. If it didnt get engaged could be a vacuum leak ir worst case the pump.

[Watchman]

Dear iRage,

Yesterday I checked out a pajero intercooler shortwheel version which was in a really good condition compared to all intercoolers I've checked out. It had this issue you mentioned where 4WD lights kept on blinking. Is it a major repair issue with a large cost involved or a quick fix? What is you idea to the best of your knowledge?

Personally I think the short wheel (2 door) and long wheel bass are 2 very different vehicles.

And correct me if i'm wrong but the short wheel vehicles are the ones which were most commonly chopped ones. A ot of those mahaweli/gov ministy short wheel pajeros sold in auctions had their bodies transplanted (or the chasis number "used" illegally). So I would be extra careful on that!

[john cooper]

dafunkdi

Please check on g*og*e for the blinking 4wd indicators on Pajero, you will find lots of articles

P.S Make sure once you engage the gear from 2WD to 4WD then the blinking light should be steady

regards

JC

[Crosswind]

oh harbor auctioned ones, if i remember right theres a way to spot the harbor auctioned ones.

bdw the JDM models came with auto gearbox and i heard they have more feaures too

I think I read on AL forums that the chassis numbers were cut ? or something inscribed ? and something to do with the book ?

The JDM also came in 5MT form. Granted I believe it was easier to find an AT than a MT and even then most MTs were of lower grade ?

1. Tampered/damaged/cut vehicles auctioned off by customs are sold for spare parts. Chassis number must be removed and chassis/unibody must be cut to pieces. They will confiscate the chassis number part anyway but the number of pieces which you have to cut the chassis solely depends on the customs official and you *wink* *wink*. Customs will not issue any documents for registration

2. Whole vehicles auctioned off by customs will have extra 6 digits on the chassis number, appended by Sri Lanka customs. For example, if the vehicle's chassis number is FB15-123456, the appended number will be FB15-123456-CMT0XX. The registration book will carry "Bought from Auction" in the 'Condition when registered' field. Almost always, the YoM in these vehicles are wrong. The buyer can sweet talk the customs officer to write a YoM he likes. Hell, I have seen a early 1990s Mitsubishi Minica, which was auctioned by customs, with the registration book saying Toyota Minica and YoM as 2002.

3. Some vehicles, which are seized by customs, are handed over to government departments and ministeries, instead of being auctioned off. These vehicles have no additional characters in the chassis number (no CMT-0XXX part).

4. Vehicles which were auctioned off by customs years ago, didn't have the "Bought from Auction" part in the CR. Instead, the first owner of the vehicle was "Director General of Customs".

[trinity]

1. Tampered/damaged/cut vehicles auctioned off by customs are sold for spare parts. Chassis number must be removed and chassis/unibody must be cut to pieces. They will confiscate the chassis number part anyway but the number of pieces which you have to cut the chassis solely depends on the customs official and you *wink* *wink*. Customs will not issue any documents for registration

2. Whole vehicles auctioned off by customs will have extra 6 digits on the chassis number, appended by Sri Lanka customs. For example, if the vehicle's chassis number is FB15-123456, the appended number will be FB15-123456-CMT0XX. The registration book will carry "Bought from Auction" in the 'Condition when registered' field. Almost always, the YoM in these vehicles are wrong. The buyer can sweet talk the customs officer to write a YoM he likes. Hell, I have seen a early 1990s Mitsubishi Minica, which was auctioned by customs, with the registration book saying Toyota Minica and YoM as 2002.

3. Some vehicles, which are seized by customs, are handed over to government departments and ministeries, instead of being auctioned off. These vehicles have no additional characters in the chassis number (no CMT-0XXX part).

4. Vehicles which were auctioned off by customs years ago, didn't have the "Bought from Auction" part in the CR. Instead, the first owner of the vehicle was "Director General of Customs".

What are you? customs officer??

Valuable info machang,, thanks for sharing.

[Komisiripala]

Ado yeah crosswind. Bro should I be brown-nosing you? I have a regular parts influx