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where is to buy Mass Air flow sensor cleaner in sri laaka? thanks !

Use a light cleaner like contact cleaner, and don't use anything like carb or injector cleaner.

Compressed air might also do the trick.

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Like The Don said, I've used contact cleaner and you only need a few light sprays. If your MAF has never been touched for over 70k like mine, there might be a bit of gunk that compressed air might not fully remove, but worth a try.

Laugfs Auto had a couple of brands to select from.

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  • 9 months later...

Bringing up this thread again,

Is there any local brand besides contact cleaner, if contact cleaner, could anyone recommend a brand? has anyone attempted this?

My car just touched 40000km, has had a fair bit of dusty off roading without a snorkel, with stock intake setup.

Would compressed air suffice?

Websites recommend CRC contact cleaner, is this brand locally available?

Edited by tiv
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Bringing up this thread again,

Is there any local brand besides contact cleaner, if contact cleaner, could anyone recommend a brand? has anyone attempted this?

My car just touched 40000km, has had a fair bit of dusty off roading without a snorkel, with stock intake setup.

Would compressed air suffice?

Websites recommend CRC contact cleaner, is this brand locally available?

You can buy CRC products from http://www.fctsl.com or alternatively can try W*rth MAF Cleaner. Whatever cleaner you use, first remove the rubber O ring from MAF body before using the cleaner and replace it only after all the solvent dries up. MAF wires are really flimsy. So take care not to touch it. Before cleaning it take a good look at the sensor elements. If they are clean and still show up in white color, you need not worry about them.

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You can buy CRC products from http://www.fctsl.com or alternatively can try W*rth MAF Cleaner. Whatever cleaner you use, first remove the rubber O ring from MAF body before using the cleaner and replace it only after all the solvent dries up. MAF wires are really flimsy. So take care not to touch it. Before cleaning it take a good look at the sensor elements. If they are clean and still show up in white color, you need not worry about them.

Thanks a million for this, tried contacting them today, didn't pick up, will try again on monday

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Thanks a million for this, tried contacting them today, didn't pick up, will try again on monday

They may be closed for the Boxing Day I guess. Even their website is down. BTW when using solvents/aerosol sprays to clean MAF sensor elements you must make sure that the cleaning agent does not leave any residue as it dries up. What happens with some of the solvents is that they tend to dissolve plastic parts of the unit and leave a residue on the sensing element. (Then the O-ring which is made of rubber gets deformed when exposed to solvents. That is why you must remove it first from the housing). In fact the sensing elements themselves are quite inert to most of the solvents but the surrounding plastic parts may not be. The method I use to clean those really difficult gunk on the elements is to first put a few drops of diesel oil (quite a good detergent and safe on most automobile plastics) and leave for a few hours loosen up the dirt and then use a contact cleaner in very short bursts (ie in small quantities, say for about 20 times) to wash the elements. The idea is to prevent any dissolved things getting back on to the element surface and leaving a residue. I do not know of anyone else using this method (I mean using diesel) but it has worked for me each time.

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Well I called them today and apparently they don't import CRC MAF CLEANER, but they do hold CRC Contact cleaner, which the staff member highly recommended, would this suffice? As this sensor is very fragile

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Well I called them today and apparently they don't import CRC MAF CLEANER, but they do hold CRC Contact cleaner, which the staff member highly recommended, would this suffice? As this sensor is very fragile

Yes that should do it in your case for it is unlikely for elements to gather hard gunk in 40k kms. Take care of the rubber gasket.

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Well I called them today and apparently they don't import CRC MAF CLEANER, but they do hold CRC Contact cleaner, which the staff member highly recommended, would this suffice? As this sensor is very fragile

As I noted above, I hv used contact cleaner to clean the MAF sensor on two vehicles. Had no issues.

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Thanks for the reply guys, I went to the company and purchased the CRC contact cleaner, will be attempting the job today and update the details tomorrow

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Well, here goes my MAF sensor clean

Vehicle: Toyota Hilux - D4D (Commonrail VGT)

Agent: CRC CO Contact Cleaner (Rs.1090) Purchased from (http://www.fctsl.com/) - Services Highly recommended ( Admins feel free)

Took the MAF out - Matter of removing 2 Philips screws, Pulled the plug out, (May vary due to Make, Model etc

Temperature Probe on the out side

vffoly.jpg

The MAF sensor elements inside ( Before Cleaning)

b6wy6g.jpg

The agent;

i22hw9.jpg

Information on the Canister

2meoad3.jpg

Took out the O Ring

2mcyovq.jpg

After Cleaning

14kwifn.jpg

I sprayed upto 5 times as you can see the sensor is quite clean already

While spraying, I let all the excess pour out, repeating roughly every 5 mins

Let it dry for about 2 hours and put it back

DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING EXCEPT FOR THE PLASTIC BITS,

Wiped all the plastic bits clean,

I had used the car earlier that day and left to cool for over 2 hours,

Results: The results were not immediate

The car started rough, engine check was ON ( I was petrified)

Upon scanning the codes corresponded to High MAF values and Low Intake Temperature values

However the Sensors were working perfectly, Idle - 8-12g/s MAF on Throttle 100-180s g/s MAF and Intake Temp 31-32c

Took it for a normal spin, halfway to the trip, the ECU cleared the codes, The Check engine light turned off,

Now the car Pulls much better, visually cleaner emissions, and most noticed, a much smoother idle,

Used for almost 150km today and no issues

Thanks a lot for your valuable advice Rumesh88, Vishkid

Hope this is of use to someone!

Edited by tiv
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Good job!. :action-smiley-033: Nice to hear that you did it successfully. I can understand the high MAF readings throwing a fault code because ECU must have done a comparison between the new values and the previously stored values. But how did it give you a low intake temperature values? You could have avoided the ECU throwing up codes by resetting it before starting but that is not important now except that it must have given you goosebumps.

Edited by Rumesh88
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Well, here goes my MAF sensor clean

Vehicle: Toyota Hilux - D4D (Commonrail VGT)

Agent: CRC CO Contact Cleaner (Rs.1090) Purchased from (http://www.fctsl.com/) - Services Highly recommended ( Admins feel free)

Took the MAF out - Matter of removing 2 Philips screws, Pulled the plug out, (May vary due to Make, Model etc

Temperature Probe on the out side

vffoly.jpg

The MAF sensor elements inside ( Before Cleaning)

b6wy6g.jpg

The agent;

i22hw9.jpg

Information on the Canister

2meoad3.jpg

Took out the O Ring

2mcyovq.jpg

After Cleaning

14kwifn.jpg

I sprayed upto 5 times as you can see the sensor is quite clean already

While spraying, I let all the excess pour out, repeating roughly every 5 mins

Let it dry for about 2 hours and put it back

DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING EXCEPT FOR THE PLASTIC BITS,

Wiped all the plastic bits clean,

I had used the car earlier that day and left to cool for over 2 hours,

Results: The results were not immediate

The car started rough, engine check was ON ( I was petrified)

Upon scanning the codes corresponded to High MAF values and Low Intake Temperature values

However the Sensors were working perfectly, Idle - 8-12g/s MAF on Throttle 100-180s g/s MAF and Intake Temp 31-32c

Took it for a normal spin, halfway to the trip, the ECU cleared the codes, The Check engine light turned off,

Now the car Pulls much better, visually cleaner emissions, and most noticed, a much smoother idle,

Used for almost 150km today and no issues

Thanks a lot for your valuable advice Rumesh88, Vishkid

Hope this is of use to someone!

Wow....tks for this tiv and Rumesh...

I too have a 2007 Hilux D4D 2.5 ltr with approx 170k on the odo.

Sometime back, having read up on newhilux.net forums, I took out the MAF but due to the lack of illustrating pics and descriptions, mistook the temp sensor for the MAF sensor and gently cleaned it with a cotton bud. Didnt want to risk it with any cleaning agents at the time and the slight gunk on it dissapeared sufficiently anyways.

So due to that mis identification, I didn't notice any difference in pulling / performance. No error/warning/check lights either.

This time around I'm tempted to try what tiv has done above. Very keen to get back that performance from the initial days.

Before doing so, can you please share how you do your scanning? Torque(Android app) and any OBD2 scanning gadget from ebay?

After some research, I bought a OBD2 scanning tool (Mini ELM327 V2.1 OBD2 II Bluetooth Diagnostic) but it doesn't work. I've tried it on many vehicles, it connects to the Torque app but doesn't read in to the vehicle. Looks like I need a better reputed scanner. Any leads would be more than useful.

Thanks again guys...

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Wow....tks for this tiv and Rumesh...

I too have a 2007 Hilux D4D 2.5 ltr with approx 170k on the odo.

Sometime back, having read up on newhilux.net forums, I took out the MAF but due to the lack of illustrating pics and descriptions, mistook the temp sensor for the MAF sensor and gently cleaned it with a cotton bud. Didnt want to risk it with any cleaning agents at the time and the slight gunk on it dissapeared sufficiently anyways.

So due to that mis identification, I didn't notice any difference in pulling / performance. No error/warning/check lights either.

This time around I'm tempted to try what tiv has done above. Very keen to get back that performance from the initial days.

Before doing so, can you please share how you do your scanning? Torque(Android app) and any OBD2 scanning gadget from ebay?

After some research, I bought a OBD2 scanning tool (Mini ELM327 V2.1 OBD2 II Bluetooth Diagnostic) but it doesn't work. I've tried it on many vehicles, it connects to the Torque app but doesn't read in to the vehicle. Looks like I need a better reputed scanner. Any leads would be more than useful.

Thanks again guys...

A scanner is not a must but nice to have one. As for the connectivity issue you have, please go through the thread http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14674-diy-scan-your-own-car/ . Some of the ELM scanner versions do not work with JDMs because of protocol incompatibility. Just to identify your connectivity issue if you can try your set up with a direct import - even a non-Japanese make would do.

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Wow....tks for this tiv and Rumesh...

I too have a 2007 Hilux D4D 2.5 ltr with approx 170k on the odo.

Sometime back, having read up on newhilux.net forums, I took out the MAF but due to the lack of illustrating pics and descriptions, mistook the temp sensor for the MAF sensor and gently cleaned it with a cotton bud. Didnt want to risk it with any cleaning agents at the time and the slight gunk on it dissapeared sufficiently anyways.

So due to that mis identification, I didn't notice any difference in pulling / performance. No error/warning/check lights either.

This time around I'm tempted to try what tiv has done above. Very keen to get back that performance from the initial days.

Before doing so, can you please share how you do your scanning? Torque(Android app) and any OBD2 scanning gadget from ebay?

After some research, I bought a OBD2 scanning tool (Mini ELM327 V2.1 OBD2 II Bluetooth Diagnostic) but it doesn't work. I've tried it on many vehicles, it connects to the Torque app but doesn't read in to the vehicle. Looks like I need a better reputed scanner. Any leads would be more than useful.

Thanks again guys...

I use the PLX Kiwi wifi device, bridging OBD to WIFI on apple devices, I purchased this setup long before the bluetooth kits came, The software I use is dashcommand which I also a paid app,

The thing with this setup is its 100% troublefree, connect anytime, and very fast, codes are read and translated then and there and can be cleared too

I've tried OBD2 Bluetooth and both OBD2 usb, but they are troublesome and not user friendly

For now my purpose is only Diagnosis so, I prefer that setup

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Tiv is your double cab a UK import?

Yes, but made in Thailand to UK spec, not South African, AFAIK there is no difference

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Yes, but made in Thailand to UK spec, not South African, AFAIK there is no difference

I was trying to figure out how your scanner was working on your cab as a lot of them don't work on JDMs due to protocol differences but vehicles sold in Europe has to be OBD - II compatible

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So I bought the 150g (small canister) CRC Contact cleaner from www.fctsl.com, albeit for LKR1,253.50(that's 1090+vat). Thanks guys for that lead. I would've bought the larger can for LKR1,800 odd but I didnt have enough cash for that and they wouldn;t accept credit cards.

Followed tiv's steps, except for the fact that I was really eager and let the engine cool for only an hour after a long run.
Took out the O ring and softly cleaned the MAF unit externally with some cotton wool before going in for the sensor elements.
They were quite dark in colour before I started. Gave them a few close up bursts of the cleaner and let the liquid poor out.
After about five rounds, the elements were looking quite clean. two more bursts to satisfy myself and I was done.Let the unit dry for an hour and put it back.
Started the engine with fingers crossed and thankfully no engine check light or rough idle for me. Went for a test drive, with smoother and better acceleration. Very satisfied with the result.
Been running daily as usual without any issues and very satisfied with the improved pick up and power delivery which had vanished in recent times.

Thanks a ton for this again guys!!!

A scanner is not a must but nice to have one. As for the connectivity issue you have, please go through the thread http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14674-diy-scan-your-own-car/ . Some of the ELM scanner versions do not work with JDMs because of protocol incompatibility. Just to identify your connectivity issue if you can try your set up with a direct import - even a non-Japanese make would do.

True Rumesh. But I'm quite keen on such DIY stuff. So looking forward to getting a proper ELM or other scanner. Also interested in getting some sort of HUD unit but not before firstly getting a proper scanner tool (not too expensive though) to read in to my ECU successfully.
Since mine is a South African manufactured hilux for UK, I guess it's not JDM protcol. Tried the scanner on some JDM models too without success. It's possible that the ELM unit I got is faulty. Waiting for a friend of mine to lend me his older ELM unit (which works well on JDMs) to try out.

I use the PLX Kiwi wifi device, bridging OBD to WIFI on apple devices, I purchased this setup long before the bluetooth kits came, The software I use is dashcommand which I also a paid app,
The thing with this setup is its 100% troublefree, connect anytime, and very fast, codes are read and translated then and there and can be cleared too

I've tried OBD2 Bluetooth and both OBD2 usb, but they are troublesome and not user friendly

For now my purpose is only Diagnosis so, I prefer that setup


Could you please share with me any links / prices / details / source u bought from, on this unit?
I tried looking it up on ebay and it returned quite a few varying results and thus I'm not sure on which would be the correct match and reliable ones. The prices seem to very between the results and thus too expensive to gamble and buy.

post-44294-0-88887900-1420620091_thumb.j

Edited by SanjeevMahen
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So I bought the 150g (small canister) CRC Contact cleaner from www.fctsl.com, albeit for LKR1,253.50(that's 1090+vat). Thanks guys for that lead. I would've bought the larger can for LKR1,800 odd but I didnt have enough cash for that and they wouldn;t accept credit cards.

Followed tiv's steps, except for the fact that I was really eager and let the engine cool for only an hour after a long run.

Took out the O ring and softly cleaned the MAF unit externally with some cotton wool before going in for the sensor elements.

They were quite dark in colour before I started. Gave them a few close up bursts of the cleaner and let the liquid poor out.

After about five rounds, the elements were looking quite clean. two more bursts to satisfy myself and I was done.Let the unit dry for an hour and put it back.

Started the engine with fingers crossed and thankfully no engine check light or rough idle for me. Went for a test drive, with smoother and better acceleration. Very satisfied with the result.

Been running daily as usual without any issues and very satisfied with the improved pick up and power delivery which had vanished in recent times.

Thanks a ton for this again guys!!!

True Rumesh. But I'm quite keen on such DIY stuff. So looking forward to getting a proper ELM or other scanner. Also interested in getting some sort of HUD unit but not before firstly getting a proper scanner tool (not too expensive though) to read in to my ECU successfully.

Since mine is a South African manufactured hilux for UK, I guess it's not JDM protcol. Tried the scanner on some JDM models too without success. It's possible that the ELM unit I got is faulty. Waiting for a friend of mine to lend me his older ELM unit (which works well on JDMs) to try out.

Could you please share with me any links / prices / details / source u bought from, on this unit?

I tried looking it up on ebay and it returned quite a few varying results and thus I'm not sure on which would be the correct match and reliable ones. The prices seem to very between the results and thus too expensive to gamble and buy.

I'm fairly sure if your car was build for the UK market a standard and cheap ELM 327 adapter will work with your OBD II connector. So don't go and spend money buying expensive hardware.

The issue is usually with the software you use. I had to try a few before found something that worked reliable with my phones blue tooth, and the ELM device. The same device when paired with a friends phone works a lot better so I assume there is an issue with the bluetooth setup of my phone..

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So I bought the 150g (small canister) CRC Contact cleaner from www.fctsl.com, albeit for LKR1,253.50(that's 1090+vat). Thanks guys for that lead. I would've bought the larger can for LKR1,800 odd but I didnt have enough cash for that and they wouldn;t accept credit cards.

Followed tiv's steps, except for the fact that I was really eager and let the engine cool for only an hour after a long run.

Took out the O ring and softly cleaned the MAF unit externally with some cotton wool before going in for the sensor elements.

They were quite dark in colour before I started. Gave them a few close up bursts of the cleaner and let the liquid poor out.

After about five rounds, the elements were looking quite clean. two more bursts to satisfy myself and I was done.Let the unit dry for an hour and put it back.

Started the engine with fingers crossed and thankfully no engine check light or rough idle for me. Went for a test drive, with smoother and better acceleration. Very satisfied with the result.

Been running daily as usual without any issues and very satisfied with the improved pick up and power delivery which had vanished in recent times.

Thanks a ton for this again guys!!!

True Rumesh. But I'm quite keen on such DIY stuff. So looking forward to getting a proper ELM or other scanner. Also interested in getting some sort of HUD unit but not before firstly getting a proper scanner tool (not too expensive though) to read in to my ECU successfully.

Since mine is a South African manufactured hilux for UK, I guess it's not JDM protcol. Tried the scanner on some JDM models too without success. It's possible that the ELM unit I got is faulty. Waiting for a friend of mine to lend me his older ELM unit (which works well on JDMs) to try out.

Could you please share with me any links / prices / details / source u bought from, on this unit?

I tried looking it up on ebay and it returned quite a few varying results and thus I'm not sure on which would be the correct match and reliable ones. The prices seem to very between the results and thus too expensive to gamble and buy.

Good Job machan, this little things improve emissions, fuel consumption and the lifespan of these engines, people tend to forget all these and run for hybrids

As for the OBD stuff, I first used a $10 ODB Bluetooth adapter and ran the "Torque" app, however this adapter works but was not that stable and had compatibility issues with sensors,

there for I upgraded to the PLX Kiwi Obd Wifi Device (https://plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI) cost about $100 then and had it imported

It is much faster and troublefree connectivity, used since 2011, and works with Apple devices and PC as well, this adapter allowed me to read all sensors real-time in that speed

I've used Dashcommand ($40 then) mostly and previously various freeware,

This setup has never failed me and I've sorted out OBD issues in various vehicles on the go even after a mud bath in Yala.

Edited by tiv
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I bought this ELM327 WiFi and it works well with my Nexus and iPhone (needs to be jail broken). Free scanning apps are available on Google Play and App Store.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vehicle-ELM327-Wi-Fi-OBD2-OBDII-WiFi-Car-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-iPhone-/290946457765?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bdc2a0a5&tstore=1&tfrom=30637516

In what car you checked it machan ?

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