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Help With My New Cs3


carson

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30 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

Could you tell us what happened to it? Did he drive through a flooded road? Pressure washed the engine bay? Messed with the electrical system? Rodent attack?

I have no details. He just asks a place to buy computer box. do you need this information to find right one?

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17 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:

Could you tell us what happened to it? Did he drive through a flooded road? Pressure washed the engine bay? Messed with the electrical system? Rodent attack?

ECU in the CS is in the cabin. Behind the glove box, so it's pretty safe.

I heard from one of the guys at Un!t3d M0tors that an early batch (2001 - 2002 I assume) had ECU issues that cause pinging under deceleration. They were apparently replaced under warranty. He told me this when he was diagnosing a similar issue on my CS3 which turned out to be a faulty TPS. Apart from this, I am unaware of any inherent ECU issues on the CS. Especially on the facelift and later models. Having said that, they're all electronic components after all, and they can wear and give out. 

The ECU itself is within a metal housing, so a rodent attack is unlikely to cause damage to the actual ECU. Wiring yes.

Some mechanics blindly suggest replacing the ECU without even performing a proper diagnosis. So it might be one of those cases. @vidura, you might want to check with your friend what is wrong with the car and ask if a diagnosis was done and what the actual issue is. The mech might be taking him for a ride. 

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5 minutes ago, vidura said:

I have no details. He just asks a place to buy computer box. do you need this information to find right one?

Oh no, like @Davy said it's quite rare for an ECU to get fried just like that, I was just curious what caused it.

Maybe he needs to take the car to UNIMO for a second opinion - ask if he has any idea what might have caused the ECU to go kaput.

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 9/26/2019 at 10:32 PM, Hyaenidae said:

Oh no, like @Davy said it's quite rare for an ECU to get fried just like that, I was just curious what caused it.

Maybe he needs to take the car to UNIMO for a second opinion - ask if he has any idea what might have caused the ECU to go kaput.

 

Also as I remember from the manual, there are couple of small ECUs also. Front ECU is in the relay box in the engine bay. Main ECU is just below the cabin hole around the front passenger foot area.

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  • 1 year later...

So I bought a used cs3 2011 GLX. While going through the car, I found this knob/button next to the foglight and have no idea what it is. Manuals on the internet show it as headlight leveling but the icon seems all wrong

Edited by artemis
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2 hours ago, artemis said:

So I bought a used cs3 2011 GLX. While going through the car, I found this knob/button next to the foglight and have no idea what it is. Manuals on the internet show it as headlight leveling but the icon seems all wrong1596200398_WhatsAppImage2020-12-28at5_15_32PM.thumb.jpeg.2c0923a6439a001549c8e063c7c5fb4a.jpeg

Instrument cluster (Meter panel) brightness adjustment. Just check with parking or headlights are on.

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12 hours ago, artemis said:

So I bought a used cs3 2011 GLX. While going through the car, I found this knob/button next to the foglight and have no idea what it is. Manuals on the internet show it as headlight leveling but the icon seems all wrong

Nothing to do with headlight leveling at all. As mentioned by @Prangi by scrolling up it will increase the brightness of your instrument cluster's back-lighting and scrolling it down will decrease the brightness of your instrument cluster. Try it at night while you're driving and you'll see immediately what we mean.

Useful when: You're driving in the city and there is a lot of ambient light and you want to increase the brightness of your instrument cluster or useful when driving on the highway or outstation when you want to lower the brightness of your gauge cluster to lessen eye fatigue and so you can focus on the road better. 

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  • 5 weeks later...
11 hours ago, artemis said:

While on a journey today, the overheating warning came on. When I checked the under the hood, only one out of two fans were active. Is that normal or has a radiator fan failed ? Any feedback is much appreciated.

Not normal at all. You shouldn't ever get the overheating warning under normal use. What exactly were you doing that caused the car to overheat? 🤔 

Also if the car was overheating, I would expect all the fans to be running to maximize airflow through the radiator...I'd get it checked asap. Also you'll need to figuare out why it was overheating, unless it was a extraordinary load condition ( and you were reving it like mad to keep it in its power band or something...) it shouldn't really overheat. 

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11 minutes ago, artemis said:

I'll top off the coolant and check if any further issues pop up.

You should also check if there is any debris in the radiator and if the waterpump is in order etc...Best address it asap.

You never said why the car overheated: Did it overheat under normal driving? 

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4 hours ago, Kavvz said:

You should also check if there is any debris in the radiator and if the waterpump is in order etc...Best address it asap.

You never said why the car overheated: Did it overheat under normal driving? 

It was normal driving. Is there any recommended place to get the system checked out, I'm in the gampaha district😖

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10 hours ago, artemis said:

It was normal driving. Is there any recommended place to get the system checked out, I'm in the gampaha district😖

Okay, yeah that shouldn't happen.

Look for the usual suspects. The order I would tackle it in is: low fluid, non-working radiator fans, stuck (closed) thermostat, water pump issues, blocked radiator etc.

Edited by Kavvz
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On 1/29/2021 at 12:29 AM, artemis said:

While on a journey today, the overheating warning came on. When I checked the under the hood, only one out of two fans were active. Is that normal or has a radiator fan failed ? Any feedback is much appreciated.

Both fans should operate together. So it could be a faulty fan motor or fan control module.

As a first step, observe the behaviour of the fans in the following situation:

- Make sure the engine is relatively cool (hasn't reached operating temperature). Start the car (AC off). Keep running for 1 minute. Fans should be off. 

- Turn on the AC. Both fans should turn on and run at high speed. The fans should also turn on and off with the operation of the AC compressor while the engine hasn't reached operating temperature.

- Turn off the AC. Fans should turn off. Keep the car idle until it reaches operating temperature (temp gauge has reached the middle mark). At that point, both fans should start ramping up. First on low speed and if you leave it for longer, it will eventually switch to high speed (you don't have to check high speed, if the fans kick in at low speed, you're good).

If any of the above scenarios are not as described, there is an issue. If one fan works exactly as described, but the other one doesn't, it is likely to be a faulty fan motor.

If you are handy with a spanner, you can do a further test to try and figure out if it's definitely a faulty fan.

The fan control module sits on top of the passenger side fan (it's a black box with a heatsink facing the front of the car), and both fans are plugged onto it. It controls the fans depending on a signal from the ECU. The ECU grounds the signal pin to 0v depending on The AC switch status, ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) value and VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) value.

Your first option is to remove the connector of the faulty fan from the control module. Then use some electrical wire and connect the fan directly to the battery (the thicker wire needs to be connected to positive). The fan should run on full speed. If not, the fan is faulty. Remove the wires from the battery and spin the fan by hand, and before it stops spinning, connect the wires again. If the fan runs normally, the fan is faulty (worn out brushes). 

The second (and probably easier) option is to try swapping the fan connectors (at the control module) to see if the other fan behaves the same way when swapped. If it does, then the issue is with the fan control module. You'll have to install a new module. 

The control module can be tested as well if you know how to use a multimeter. But to keep things simple, try these first.

Good luck!

 

Edited by Davy
Corrected typo
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