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nano31

Toyota 2C Engine Rebuilt

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I have planed to rebuilt my toyota 2C engine.

I am expecting advices regarding important aspects.

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I would rather replace it than rebuilding it

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I would rather replace it than rebuilding it

I checked that option too.

But I got to know that the used diesel engines imported from Japan usually clocked 100,000km (but they are not hacked probably quality diesel/engine oil)

So had to think twice before putting 100k clocked engine

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I would rather replace it than rebuilding it

What guarentee is there the replacement engine is gonna be any better eh?Bad advice...

OP go for a rebuild.Opt for the best quality parts and you'll be fine.Edirisinghe brothers did the overhaul on our CE106 2C diesel it has never been better.Just keep the revs below 2500rpm for the first 500kms or so and keep an eye on the temperature guage.

Just to give you a rough idea of the costs involved.It cost us 32000Rs for the new parts(pistons,rings,gasket etc) and 23000 for the labour and machine charges from EBL..Autocourt gives us a substantial discount so expect your quote to be a bit higher.

Add to that the fee for the mechanic to take the engine in and out,say 10 to 15k...I reccomend you change the engine mounts at the same time...

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@MasterDon,

Thanks for advices

I just check the spares price from Toyota Lanka and another dealer who said to be imports the items from Singapore Toyota.

Need advices regarding reliable spares dealer.

And if to re bore or re sleeve.

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We had our 2C (non turbo) overhauled a month ago. I think we spent about Rs 70,000 for the parts alone (alot of stuff replaced!) and none were purchased from T Lanka. If you want a complete parts and costs list, drop me a PM.

Also, we checked prices of 2C engines and were quoted 155,000 excluding most major components so overhauling is a better option.

Edited by Jaliya48

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I checked that option too.

But I got to know that the used diesel engines imported from Japan usually clocked 100,000km (but they are not hacked probably quality diesel/engine oil)

So had to think twice before putting 100k clocked engine

What guarentee is there the replacement engine is gonna be any better eh?Bad advice...

OP go for a rebuild.Opt for the best quality parts and you'll be fine.Edirisinghe brothers did the overhaul on our CE106 2C diesel it has never been better.Just keep the revs below 2500rpm for the first 500kms or so and keep an eye on the temperature guage.

Just to give you a rough idea of the costs involved.It cost us 32000Rs for the new parts(pistons,rings,gasket etc) and 23000 for the labour and machine charges from EBL..Autocourt gives us a substantial discount so expect your quote to be a bit higher.

Add to that the fee for the mechanic to take the engine in and out,say 10 to 15k...I reccomend you change the engine mounts at the same time...

Find an used engine takes, i replaced my car's engine around 6-7 months back and i looked everywhere before choosing. The one got is really really good. Before i replaced my engine i did a rebuild as well. It only lasted for around 6 months then started heating and sending out smoke. Now the car only sends out bit of smoke only at around 5K RPM and the temperature comes up to warm once in a while( when stuck in traffic or when going up a hill) and goes back down to cool. I know other people also who didnt get a good result with engine rebuild. Im not saying its 100% perfect but its not good as replacing with a good condition engine IMHO

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We replaced 1C engine in our Toyota Liteace with an used 2C engine in good condition (and added power steering too) in year 1999. We used vehicle without any problem until we sold it in 2011. Replace your old engine with a used engine in good quality.

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Find an used engine takes, i replaced my car's engine around 6-7 months back and i looked everywhere before choosing. The one got is really really good. Before i replaced my engine i did a rebuild as well. It only lasted for around 6 months then started heating and sending out smoke. Now the car only sends out bit of smoke only at around 5K RPM and the temperature comes up to warm once in a while( when stuck in traffic or when going up a hill) and goes back down to cool. I know other people also who didnt get a good result with engine rebuild. Im not saying its 100% perfect but its not good as replacing with a good condition engine IMHO

The only reason an engine rebuild would go wrong is if you cut corners and use low quality parts and/or get it done at a Maka baas who says that you only need to replace a few parts, he will "rebuild" certain parts/make his own gaskets etc. Of course if your block/head is damaged then no amount of rebuilding will help but that's another story.

The only way an engine rebuild can be successful is if EVERYTHING that is worn (right down to seals and gaskets) is properly replaced with the best quality parts as MD has already pointed out and if the boring/sleeving/head work is done by a place that knows what it is doing 100%. Finally, the person who disassembles and puts together the engine needs to know what he is doing and take his time doing a quality job, If its done in a rush it will most certainly not work out.

Doing it any other way is being Penny wise but Pound foolish, as they say.

Edited by Supra_Natural

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"Transplanting" an used engine is out for me.

I need advises regarding spare parts, machine works, etc

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You could try G* M****s for spares they are reliable and prices are ok

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100,000 on the clock for imported engine is normal. It can be used another 200,000Km without any problem. 100,000Kms in Japan is like 30,000Km in Sri Lanka. It's nothing for a 2C diesel engine. If it's genuine mileage you don't feel much difference in engine with 20,000Kms and engine with 100,000Kms. That's the quality of a Japaneese engine.

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100,000 on the clock for imported engine is normal. It can be used another 200,000Km without any problem. 100,000Kms in Japan is like 30,000Km in Sri Lanka. It's nothing for a 2C diesel engine. If it's genuine mileage you don't feel much difference in engine with 20,000Kms and engine with 100,000Kms. That's the quality of a Japaneese engine.

And how exactly can you ascertain whether the mileage is genuine?

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Since you think about rebuilding it.

I would say yes.thats it should be.

To start with

Get a decent local garage or mechanic to dessemble the engine.

Get the re boring or sleeving to be done at decent place with the sophistication and mechinary and trained hands are available.

I would recommend d*mo or ediri*inghe.

The rings gaskets all the seals and sleevs should be TOYOTA OEM.do not go for substitutes for here.

In case you need pistons go for alpine.

Do not forget to rebuilt cooling system.

Replace the thermostat valve with OEM. drain and clean the radiator.replace all major horses. And dont forget the radiator cap to replace.refill with coolent (green) will say c*ltex or str would do. Use premix beacuse the others causes sludge with time..

Injector pump is the one to touch with care. Toyota lanka does it for 22000 bucks with all parys but you can do it from a experienced joint like klevenberg.the rule is use genuine denso injectors and OEM repair kit wherever you do.did it with a local joint for labour cost of 2000rs and belive me no issues so far.

Remove the starter motor and re do the brushes and lubricating and service stuff to make sure not to have troubles on the go.a regular motor guy would do it for you.

Rebuild the turbo (if 2CT) with repair kit.

Replace the oil pump and water pump.

Go for genuine ASIN brand.which is the oem supplier for Toyotas.

Tappet clearance to be done at decent garage.there is calibarated sim like card to do it easily.get it done with correct tools.easy job.

Replace the engine mounts all 4 .

Genuine is utterly expensive.go for recon good set if your mechanic can find. Or brand RBI woud do.mind you it will last within average 2 years. But you can replace 5-6 such sets for price of oem.do the math here.

Check the shock absorber mounts. Steering rack mounts. Gearbox mounts lower arm bushes as needed.

Do service the AC system with lubricate regas and preasurize the system to find leaks. It will cost you 5000 bucks but keep you trouble free for next so miles.

Fill with quality engine oil.

I recommend as following order.

Shell rimula 15w40.

Mobil delvac 15w40.

Castrol rx 15w40.

(Toyota is differently packed mobil)

If you so keen

Mobil fully synhetic 5w40.

First 500 kms with rpm less than 2000.

Replace filter and oil at 500 kms.

Then refill new oil.

filters go for VIC or sakura if in budget.

Change in every 5000km.

You are trouble free for next 150000 miles.

Please note that these are according to my experience and there may be alternatives for my recommendations.

Edited by chan5
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And how exactly can you ascertain whether the mileage is genuine?

Since these engines are normally used in commercial vehicles, they have average more than 100,000Kms. I am not sure how we can test the genuine mileage of an engine. Most mechanic is do is to test the sound, any oil leaks, exhaust gas.

If you directly import from Japaneese auction, there is a high chance that it has stated genuine mileage.

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Hmmm all i know is Supra and me along with a few forum seniors have VERY high mileage vehicles that have had engine rebuilds and are running fine.Infact yours truly is approaching almost 10 rebuilds in his lifetime.Everything from big Isuzu 4.5ltr turbos to old MGs.All are running perfectly.And BTW most of the so called "Japan imported" engines are locally used engines given a decarb.

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1). According to my mechanic the old pistons are in good shape.
Is it ok to reuse them or replace with alpine pistons?

2). Is it better to re bore and put oversize piston or re sleeve and original size pistons?

My main worry against re boring is alteration of engine beat.

Against re sleeving is the quality of the sleeves ("Izumi") they put.

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1). According to my mechanic the old pistons are in good shape.

Is it ok to reuse them or replace with alpine pistons?

2). Is it better to re bore and put oversize piston or re sleeve and original size pistons?

My main worry against re boring is alteration of engine beat.

Against re sleeving is the quality of the sleeves ("Izumi") they put.

I 'sleeved' the Corrolla.Working OK except it tended to overheat in the first 1000kms...I reccomend you replace the pistons too.

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Regarding the piston,

Toyota Lanka offered me original pistons for Rs 38000/=,

Another place said to be importing original pistons from Singapore Toyota, offered me Rs 28000/=

while alpine pistons for 10000/=

What are the benefits of original pistons over alphine pistons?

Edited by nano31

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Completed the rebuilding.

Need advices regarding first running of engine.

Should it be driven without thermostat?

What is the best method for first running?

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Completed the rebuilding.

Need advices regarding first running of engine.

Should it be driven without thermostat?

What is the best method for first running?

Congratulations! My mechanic advised me to limit the speed to >40km/h for the first 1000 or so kms and not to stress the engine. Mine is an Automatic so I was told to accelerate very gently as well.

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Completed the rebuilding.

Need advices regarding first running of engine.

Should it be driven without thermostat?

What is the best method for first running?

Did you use new pistons or use the existing ones and which brand did you use?

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Congratulations! My mechanic advised me to limit the speed to >40km/h for the first 1000 or so kms and not to stress the engine. Mine is an Automatic so I was told to accelerate very gently as well.
It's not the speed one should look after.It's the revs.For example if he does 40kmph on 3rd(higher revs) it'd hurt the engine more than doing 80 kmph on fifth gear.As a general rule keep it below 2000RPM on non turbo diesels and 3000 RPM on petrols for the first 1000 kilometers and change the oil when reaching 1500.

Anyway those are just guide lines.My lorry drivers never adhere to those rules after a rebuild whatsoever and the vehicle still run just fine.

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It's not the speed one should look after.It's the revs.For example if he does 40kmph on 3rd(higher revs) it'd hurt the engine more than doing 80 kmph on fifth gear.As a general rule keep it below 2000RPM on non turbo diesels and 3000 RPM on petrols for the first 1000 kilometers and change the oil when reaching 1500.

Anyway those are just guide lines.My lorry drivers never adhere to those rules after a rebuild whatsoever and the vehicle still run just fine.

Thanks for that bit of info. My CE106V is an auto and there's no tachometer so we're being very gentle with the accelerator pedal! I'm approaching 1,500kms in about two weeks' time.

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Did you use new pistons or use the existing ones and which brand did you use?

I used old pistons as the machine shop head mechanic strongly suggested since they are in very good shape and no damages.

According to him those original pistons are far better than after market pistons and he said if I really wanna go for new pistons go for genuine Toyota but still my old pistons are completely ok (no burns, no ring carrier damages, etc)

Edited by nano31

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