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rangerover

Restoration Of A 1955 Peugeot 203

Question

Hi Guys

I'm about to start a restoration project for a 1955 Peugeot 203 that was in my family for almost 60 years (one owner / one driver). The car unfortunately has been idle for over 15 years (ever since my grand father passed away). It starts and moves, but has several rust and other niggles to fix.

My aim is to achieve near perfection (almost concours 'd elegance) with this project. Could you guys please advise me on the following, as this is my first ever restoration

1. Recommended place for tinkering (someone with very good experience in working with classics)

2. Complete repair of the interior seating, cushions (including the springs etc), roof lining and door panels

3. Restoration of body trims (should these be replated?) Im looking to get the silver trims and body fittings restored (also need to get the door locks, handles etc tinkered and restored)

4. A complete mechanical inspection and overhaul (a mechanic with experience in working with 203's or peugeot's of similar vintage)

5. A complete paint (I really need the perfect finish) job of the exterior and interior

Appreciate some guidance on the above and on any additional areas I should look at. I have shown the image of the car below

9vsl.jpg
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My initial plan is to do the following (However, I might end up covering more once the dismantling and investigation starts. The painting and "grooming" will be the last step in the plan)

1. Body -

- Scrape the paint to the metal and undertake a complete tinkering (rust repair) job.

- Replace entire floor board and fabricate corroded parts of the frame

- Replace all rubber beadings (windscreens, windows and door) - Need to speak to L P Gunaratne

- The front and rear bumpers need to be replaced (several dents / shoddy repair jobs). If i can't find a good set, I might have to fabricate both in copper (since it will last longer)

- All metal / chrome trim to be electroplated

2. Brake

- Replace brake master cylinder

- Line connecting the reservoir to the master cylinder

- Check and replace brake shoes and slave (wheel) cylinders

3. Cooling

- Check radiator for leaks / corrosion and do the necessary repairs

- Check water pump, thermostat and fan and repair where necessary

4. Electricals

- Check / clean / reset / replace the entire electrical system as necessary (circuit breaker, distributor, ignition coil)

- Starter motor and dynamo to be serviced

- All fuses, wiring and connectors to be checked and replaced

5. Engine

- Check for leaks and replace head gaskets and sump gaskets

- Replace spark plugs

- There is a problem with the idle run of the starter motor (if this is due to the wearing of flywheel teeth, need to turn the wheel up side down

6. Gearbox

- In drive mode, when on the third gear, the lever slips to neutral. Need to check the linkages and gearbox in detail to check this

7. Fuel system

- Repair fuel pump with repair kit

- Clean fuel tank and fuel lines

- Replace carburetor (There is a leak from the bottom end. Cant be repaired with the kit)

8. Interior

- Replace cushions and re do seat covers

- Hood lining and door panels need to be replaced

- Switches on the dash to be replaced with genuine knobs

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2. Complete repair of the interior seating, cushions (including the springs etc), roof lining and door panels

I got all my cushion works, canopy and carpets done from Horana cushion at Horana and their work is perfect. I saw older Benz car came to them and had done the interior and it was superb. I felt like to get in there and drive away. :) Anyway first you'd better visit the place and see. There may be other places but I am totally satisfied with their work which they try to keep the original classic look always. However it depends on your requirement. Hope this helps. Also please keep the thread updated with images of your excellent work. Thanks.

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I see a familiar butt.... :)

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Looks like a solid plan for a start. Good luck and keep the forum updated.

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Beautiful car! I'm eager to see this updated as well!

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Car seems to be in solid shape going in! All the best!

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Haven't been able to upload this thread for sometime. The work on the car has been quite slow due to serious amount of tinkering work that had to be done on the chassis and the body. Most of the rust was hidden beneath a mountain of paint work. Anyways, all of the body frame work and side members were refabricated with 16 guage steel. The entire floor board was replaced, the paint was scraped to bare metal and signficant components of the body including, inner valance / deflectors of both sides had to be replaced. Some body re-alignment work also had to be done due to a shody repair job of an accident damage many moons ago. The vehicle is currently being prepped for painting. However, Im planning to complete the final few coats once most of the other restoration work is completed

11358767_10101583730165848_1595925613_n.

Gearbox.jpg

11311846_10101583730325528_1541409874_n.

11356274_10101583729681818_566021531_n.j

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Just to add;

The engine and the gearbox are currently going through a complete rebuild. Does anyone know of a good place to fabricate bumpers in stainless steel or copper? The steel bumpers of the car are not in the best of conditions

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You are better off buying a pair of bumpers. I'm sure you can find if you look around. At this time, there's a pair up for sale in ebay Germany, if there's a way to get it down,

Fabricating bumpers with copper will be expensive and will add unnecessary weight to the car.

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Just to add;

The engine and the gearbox are currently going through a complete rebuild. Does anyone know of a good place to fabricate bumpers in stainless steel or copper? The steel bumpers of the car are not in the best of conditions

What's wrong with the original buffers?They seem fine to me judging by the pictures.If there are rust spots get the tinker patch them up with copper welding and smooth out dips and dents using small hammer and file...Then have it rechromed.

The cost of locally fabricating will most definitely exceed the cost of having a reproduction buffer brought down.And as CW said it'll be heavier too.

If you're still intent on having them done locally send me a PM I have a couple of contacts.

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Haven't been able to upload this thread for sometime. The work on the car has been quite slow due to serious amount of tinkering work that had to be done on the chassis and the body. Most of the rust was hidden beneath a mountain of paint work. Anyways, all of the body frame work and side members were refabricated with 16 guage steel. The entire floor board was replaced, the paint was scraped to bare metal and signficant components of the body including, inner valance / deflectors of both sides had to be replaced. Some body re-alignment work also had to be done due to a shody repair job of an accident damage many moons ago. The vehicle is currently being prepped for painting. However, Im planning to complete the final few coats once most of the other restoration work is completed

11311846_10101583730325528_1541409874_n.

AWESOME! Finally another classic resto thread to read. Such an awesome looking car and I can't wait to see where you take it.

All the best, and please do hit us up with updates as much as you can.

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Just to add;

The engine and the gearbox are currently going through a complete rebuild. Does anyone know of a good place to fabricate bumpers in stainless steel or copper? The steel bumpers of the car are not in the best of conditions

You are better off buying a pair of bumpers. I'm sure you can find if you look around. At this time, there's a pair up for sale in ebay Germany, if there's a way to get it down,

Fabricating bumpers with copper will be expensive and will add unnecessary weight to the car.

Pardon my ignorance but: Copper bumpers? Wow! People do that? That'd be expensive and pretty soft / fragile will it not?

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What's wrong with the original buffers?They seem fine to me judging by the pictures.If there are rust spots get the tinker patch them up with copper welding and smooth out dips and dents using small hammer and file...Then have it rechromed.

The cost of locally fabricating will most definitely exceed the cost of having a reproduction buffer brought down.And as CW said it'll be heavier too.

If you're still intent on having them done locally send me a PM I have a couple of contacts.

Thanks! Thats true. will try that path before considering a fabrication.

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I was quoted around 25K for bumper to fabricate in SL using copper. I asume the chrome plating costs would be extra.

If you find somebody to repair dents and rust and prepare for rechroming would you please let me know please. The reproductions in my case are quite expensive.

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The condition of my bumpers;

11328910_10101598255611738_1507575661_n.

11292926_10101598255651658_1110287670_n.

I was quoted around 25K for bumper to fabricate in SL using copper. I asume the chrome plating costs would be extra.

If you find somebody to repair dents and rust and prepare for rechroming would you please let me know please. The reproductions in my case are quite expensive.

Im still in the hunt for alternatives. Will keep you posted if I do come across someone with the capability. Would you be able to put me in touch with a fabricator? The last quote I got was an outrageous 90k

Edited by rangerover

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Some of the progress made so far on the body. The first coat was applied after the primer and the sealant. Some cateloy work need to be done before moving forward to cover some of the tinkering and patch work done on the body.

11271240_10101598255521918_1069938770_n.

11304525_10101598255536888_1458329938_n.

Edited by rangerover

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Thanks! Thats true. will try that path before considering a fabrication.
The condition of my bumpers;

11328910_10101598255611738_1507575661_n.

11292926_10101598255651658_1110287670_n.

Well the bumpers are worse than I thought.Yet even these are salvageable but since you're going for a concourse finish better bring a pair down or fabricate.The over-riders can be cast locally.

Check your inbox.

Edited by MasterDon

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