Lancer Cs1 Glx (2008 Model) - Genuine Brake Pads

[The Don]

Sub-standard aftermarket brake pads can definitely be a reason for poor braking, so if you're going for new pads, I can only suggest going for genuines if you can afford them. Do you have disks all round? If so, 17K sounds like a reasonable price cause the front pads alone for the Lance CS3 cost me 13K a couple of years back. I'm still running on those pads and there's not a bit of brake dust or noise. The braking power is significantly better than when I was using aftermarket pads. There are of course good Japanese brake pads which are equally good.

As for the rattling noise I had in the front, it was because one of the aftermarket pads not sitting properly on the caliper. On a different occasion, there was another rattling noise in the front and it was because of a missing caliper pin. Caliper pins hold the pads in place without allowing them to rattle. You can get a set of pins from UniMo and they're not that expensive. Some cars have a shim that hold the pads in place, our local mechanics get rid of the shims because they tend to rust and break into pieces when replacing pads. Go through the workshop manual for brakes and see what parts of the brakes are missing (pins/shims) and replace them to stop all these brake rattles.

Davy when you have shims, normally they change them when they change the pads. Its a pity they don't include it in the "kit" when you buy the pads themselves. I noticed on my car, the dealership had changed the shims as well as the pads and retaining clips with new.

If our wonderful agent was better, we would get our work done there ourselves, but sadly they are on the lower end of good customer service.

This shoddy pad issue is a relatively new one funny enough. In the 90s I never heard of people having issues with pads, and very few people used originals as they were excruciatingly expensive and the Jap pads were good. But whats happened is thanks to taxes etc the prices are gone up to a point that its very difficult to get original parts now, and most are not what it says in the box. Thats the real issue. I remember the time when you had good brands which were as good and sometimes even better than original (sometimes they were original with a different box) like Exedy or Deakin for clutches pressure pads etc, GMB for water pumps, FBK for brake shoes, pads, FDK? for CV joints etc.

Never had an issue with them. But recently I went to buy a adjustable shifter from a hardware shop. I think many of you remember the Diamond brand chinese tools and we used to have 3. All stolen by workmen who worked in our house so I went for some replacements. To my amazement, in the 15 years passed, the quality of Diamond tools seemed to have gone down How is that even possible, but the shifter I had in my hand was a sad shoddy version of the ones I bought 15 odd years ago........ I bought one because I needed one, but I think I'll have to buy the rest from the UK.

[Davy]

Davy when you have shims, normally they change them when they change the pads. Its a pity they don't include it in the "kit" when you buy the pads themselves. I noticed on my car, the dealership had changed the shims as well as the pads and retaining clips with new.

If our wonderful agent was better, we would get our work done there ourselves, but sadly they are on the lower end of good customer service.

This shoddy pad issue is a relatively new one funny enough. In the 90s I never heard of people having issues with pads, and very few people used originals as they were excruciatingly expensive and the Jap pads were good. But whats happened is thanks to taxes etc the prices are gone up to a point that its very difficult to get original parts now, and most are not what it says in the box. Thats the real issue. I remember the time when you had good brands which were as good and sometimes even better than original (sometimes they were original with a different box) like Exedy or Deakin for clutches pressure pads etc, GMB for water pumps, FBK for brake shoes, pads, FDK? for CV joints etc.

Never had an issue with them. But recently I went to buy a adjustable shifter from a hardware shop. I think many of you remember the Diamond brand chinese tools and we used to have 3. All stolen by workmen who worked in our house so I went for some replacements. To my amazement, in the 15 years passed, the quality of Diamond tools seemed to have gone down How is that even possible, but the shifter I had in my hand was a sad shoddy version of the ones I bought 15 odd years ago........ I bought one because I needed one, but I think I'll have to buy the rest from the UK.

Yes The Don; Ideally they should, because the shims just corrode away with time and sometimes break into pieces when removing the old pads as I've mentioned before. Unfortunately, they don't come with the pads, so our mechanics just opt for the easy thing of just removing them.

When I went for the first brake pad change on my CS3, I discovered that a mech had fabricated a piece of metal to do the job of a caliper pin. It was so tight that the pad was stuck in the caliper. My mech had to pry the pad out. It was then that I switched to a set of genuine caliper pins. If all the bits and pieces (shims/pins) necessary for the re-installation of pads, then this wouldn't have been the case.

[trinity]

Davy when you have shims, normally they change them when they change the pads. Its a pity they don't include it in the "kit" when you buy the pads themselves. I noticed on my car, the dealership had changed the shims as well as the pads and retaining clips with new.

If our wonderful agent was better, we would get our work done there ourselves, but sadly they are on the lower end of good customer service.

This shoddy pad issue is a relatively new one funny enough. In the 90s I never heard of people having issues with pads, and very few people used originals as they were excruciatingly expensive and the Jap pads were good. But whats happened is thanks to taxes etc the prices are gone up to a point that its very difficult to get original parts now, and most are not what it says in the box. Thats the real issue. I remember the time when you had good brands which were as good and sometimes even better than original (sometimes they were original with a different box) like Exedy or Deakin for clutches pressure pads etc, GMB for water pumps, FBK for brake shoes, pads, FDK? for CV joints etc.

Never had an issue with them. But recently I went to buy a adjustable shifter from a hardware shop. I think many of you remember the Diamond brand chinese tools and we used to have 3. All stolen by workmen who worked in our house so I went for some replacements. To my amazement, in the 15 years passed, the quality of Diamond tools seemed to have gone down How is that even possible, but the shifter I had in my hand was a sad shoddy version of the ones I bought 15 odd years ago........ I bought one because I needed one, but I think I'll have to buy the rest from the UK.

I bought a genuine carb repair kit and it was installed by a guy who works at United M, the bugger showed me number of small bits & pieces which ideally should go in with the repair kit but never comes with it. So if they treat something sensitive like the carb like that, no wonder you don't get a full replacement kit for things like brake pads.

[Sierra Charlie]

Sub-standard aftermarket brake pads can definitely be a reason for poor braking, so if you're going for new pads, I can only suggest going for genuines if you can afford them. Do you have disks all round? If so, 17K sounds like a reasonable price cause the front pads alone for the Lance CS3 cost me 13K a couple of years back. I'm still running on those pads and there's not a bit of brake dust or noise. The braking power is significantly better than when I was using aftermarket pads. There are of course good Japanese brake pads which are equally good.

As for the rattling noise I had in the front, it was because one of the aftermarket pads not sitting properly on the caliper. On a different occasion, there was another rattling noise in the front and it was because of a missing caliper pin. Caliper pins hold the pads in place without allowing them to rattle. You can get a set of pins from UniMo and they're not that expensive. Some cars have a shim that hold the pads in place, our local mechanics get rid of the shims because they tend to rust and break into pieces when replacing pads. Go through the workshop manual for brakes and see what parts of the brakes are missing (pins/shims) and replace them to stop all these brake rattles.

I checked my front right brake pad today. There's a play of about 2 millimetres. I checked the service manual and apparently the G has a shim as opposed to a pin in your CS3. So, have to check the fitment of the pads as well as replace the shims when I go ahead with the repair.

[Sierra Charlie]

I bought a genuine carb repair kit and it was installed by a guy who works at United M, the bugger showed me number of small bits & pieces which ideally should go in with the repair kit but never comes with it. So if they treat something sensitive like the carb like that, no wonder you don't get a full replacement kit for things like brake pads.

Trinity I thought the repair kits are OEM spec. Necessarily stuff you need to carry out a particular repair to restore something to the factory spec. Am I missing something here?

[Sierra Charlie]

Never had an issue with them. But recently I went to buy a adjustable shifter from a hardware shop. I think many of you remember the Diamond brand chinese tools and we used to have 3. All stolen by workmen who worked in our house so I went for some replacements. To my amazement, in the 15 years passed, the quality of Diamond tools seemed to have gone down How is that even possible, but the shifter I had in my hand was a sad shoddy version of the ones I bought 15 odd years ago........ I bought one because I needed one, but I think I'll have to buy the rest from the UK.

Had a similar issue with a flashlight/torch the other day. Accidentally dropped it. The whole lens assembly came off and the lip where the lens assembly fits the body is cracked rendering the bloody thing unusable. Looking to buy a Maglite now. Hope they are still good like they used to be.

Edited August 22, 2014 by Sierra Charlie

[trinity]

Trinity I thought the repair kits are OEM spec. Necessarily stuff you need to carry out a particular repair to restore something to the factory spec. Am I missing something here?

That's what I also thought.. but apparently its not the case always. I think the repair kit comes with most essential parts omitting the things which could be reused.

Say you need part A,B,C & D to be replaced to fix the issue, while AB& C are essential D could be reused. So with the repair kit you get only AB&C. if for some reason D is unsalvageable you either fabricate it or replace the entire unit.

at the agents a carb costs over 90k... how about them apples if you had to replace a carb just cuz you cant find/fabricate a tiny needle looking piece of shit????

I could be wrong here. but this is what I learnt and experienced when fixing the carburetor of my car.

Had a similar issue with a flashlight/torch the other day. accidentally dropped it. The whole lens assembly came off and the lip where the lens assembly fits the body is cracked rendering the bloody thing unusable. Looking to buy a Maglite now. Hope they are still good like they used to be.

I have a 2piece Mag Light now I keep for self defence if the need arises.. It was THE torch when it was bought from Germany when I was bout 12 years old. Now we have one of those small made LED torches which lits up like a small sun in your hand... The brand is unknown, received from a relative who lives in Qatar. old mag is a candle when comparing to this. don't know about the new range of Mag lights though. was obsessed with sure fire but they are too damn expensive.

Edited August 22, 2014 by trinity

[Amila G]

Just my 2c on the brake pads,

FBL is the better brand and the FBK is the cheaper one. But even the FBL creates the dust on rims issue only the genuine ones solved it for me.

[Sierra Charlie]

That's what I also thought.. but apparently its not the case always. I think the repair kit comes with most essential parts omitting the things which could be reused.

Say you need part A,B,C & D to be replaced to fix the issue, while AB& C are essential D could be reused. So with the repair kit you get only AB&C. if for some reason D is unsalvageable you either fabricate it or replace the entire unit.

at the agents a carb costs over 90k... how about them apples if you had to replace a carb just cuz you cant find/fabricate a tiny needle looking piece of shit????

I could be wrong here. but this is what I learnt and experienced when fixing the carburetor of my car.

I have a 2piece Mag Light now I keep for self defence if the need arises.. It was THE torch when it was bought from Germany when I was bout 12 years old. Now we have one of those small made LED torches which lits up like a small sun in your hand... The brand is unknown, received from a relative who lives in Qatar. old mag is a candle when comparing to this. don't know about the new range of Mag lights though. was obsessed with sure fire but they are too damn expensive.

Maglites are pretty good for self defence. One reason why I opted for one as well.

[The Don]

My mech fabricated shims for me too. Works like a charm. You can buy them though on ebay and other places. Its nice to actually know these things so you know what to buy.

Its always good to get to know your spares parts supplier. I've got two in the Nugegoda area, and they are curteous, knowledgable and don't BS as my mechanic buys all the parts from them. Best thing for my mech is he buys and pays later. Its an arrangement that works both ways.

[Sierra Charlie]

My mech fabricated shims for me too. Works like a charm. You can buy them though on ebay and other places. Its nice to actually know these things so you know what to buy.

Its always good to get to know your spares parts supplier. I've got two in the Nugegoda area, and they are curteous, knowledgable and don't BS as my mechanic buys all the parts from them. Best thing for my mech is he buys and pays later. Its an arrangement that works both ways.

True that. I do have a parts supplier guy I know. The guy is expensive, reliable and talks the spare parts lingo. I was looking for some body trims once and had no luck. I gave this guy a call and was explaining to him what I needed. Guy listened to me like 7 seconds. Interrupts me and tells me, "Mahattaya Diki patiyakda hoyanne?" Lo and behold, it was indeed a Diki Patiya I was looking for. Pretty much every shop know what that was. Felt like a complete j***a$$.

Anyway, would like to talk to your parts supplier too if you don't mind sharing the info. The current one I talk to tend to find stuff from the higher end of the cost spectrum.

[The Don]

There is one place right on Kohuwala junction called Hewage (whatever you do, donot go into AU motors, unless you want to end up with a lot of junk you don't need). There is another place in Delkanda close to the junction on the right hand side just after the junction. I don't remember the place's name.

[xXx]

Sub-standard aftermarket brake pads can definitely be a reason for poor braking, so if you're going for new pads, I can only suggest going for genuines if you can afford them. Do you have disks all round? If so, 17K sounds like a reasonable price cause the front pads alone for the Lance CS3 cost me 13K a couple of years back. I'm still running on those pads and there's not a bit of brake dust or noise. The braking power is significantly better than when I was using aftermarket pads. There are of course good Japanese brake pads which are equally good.

As for the rattling noise I had in the front, it was because one of the aftermarket pads not sitting properly on the caliper. On a different occasion, there was another rattling noise in the front and it was because of a missing caliper pin. Caliper pins hold the pads in place without allowing them to rattle. You can get a set of pins from UniMo and they're not that expensive. Some cars have a shim that hold the pads in place, our local mechanics get rid of the shims because they tend to rust and break into pieces when replacing pads. Go through the workshop manual for brakes and see what parts of the brakes are missing (pins/shims) and replace them to stop all these brake rattles.

Since we are on the subject of breaks, my understanding is, by all means correct me if i am wrong, caliper pin/bolts job is provide a railing for one of the entire break calipers to move back and forth it got nothing to do with holding the break pad in place. These pins bolts never come with the break pad kit. And it is vital to keep these pins clean and well lubricated as part of regular maintenance to prevent breaks from binding.

That's what I also thought.. but apparently its not the case always. I think the repair kit comes with most essential parts omitting the things which could be reused.

Say you need part A,B,C & D to be replaced to fix the issue, while AB& C are essential D could be reused. So with the repair kit you get only AB&C. if for some reason D is unsalvageable you either fabricate it or replace the entire unit.

at the agents a carb costs over 90k... how about them apples if you had to replace a carb just cuz you cant find/fabricate a tiny needle looking piece of shit????

I could be wrong here. but this is what I learnt and experienced when fixing the carburetor of my car.

Are you sure part D can't be purchased via the agents separately instead of having to buy the entire unit? If that's the case buying a kaput unit and salvaging part D may be an option.

Edited August 22, 2014 by xXx

[Davy]

Since we are on the subject of breaks, my understanding is, by all means correct me if i am wrong, caliper pin/bolts job is provide a railing for one of the entire break calipers to move back and forth it got nothing to do with holding the break pad in place. These pins bolts never come with the break pad kit. And it is vital to keep these pins clean and well lubricated as part of regular maintenance to prevent breaks from binding.

You're absolutely right on the fact that the pins allow the pads to move back and forth. In fact, the pins themselves is what sometimes makes the squealing (caliper pins coming into contact with the rotor) noise when stepped on the brake pedal when running with excessively worn out pads. But to allow the pads to travel back and forth within the caliper, the pins do have to keep the pads locked into position, so the pins actually hold the pads in place, and a missing pin (or pins) means that the pads are just wiggling inside the caliper when the car moves about.

As for lubrication and according to my knowledge, the only part that needs to be greased up when re-installing the caliper is the long nut that holds the caliper and knuckle together. This of course may vary, depending on the vehicle.

[trinity]

Since we are on the subject of breaks, my understanding is, by all means correct me if i am wrong, caliper pin/bolts job is provide a railing for one of the entire break calipers to move back and forth it got nothing to do with holding the break pad in place. These pins bolts never come with the break pad kit. And it is vital to keep these pins clean and well lubricated as part of regular maintenance to prevent breaks from binding.

Are you sure part D can't be purchased via the agents separately instead of having to buy the entire unit? If that's the case buying a kaput unit and salvaging part D may be an option.

Yes agents won't sell some parts separately. Fine example is Davy's experience when buying the IACV. Sometimes you have to buy the entire unit.