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Red Or Green Coolant For Toyota Cars?


aselaplus

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Isn't it yellow for Toyota.. ask for yellow coolent it should match your model.

Colour really doesn't matter dude.. best coolent you can have is the one you can find easy from a recognized brand. If this is too much work for you, go for the coolent called H2O. That is the best brand available.

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Look for the one that matches the color code of your car. That's what's specified by the company. It's in the manual. You can order online if agents don't have

Damn..so that is wrong with my car ! The car is pearl white....I know I should have put some hot toddy instead of that green crap !!! :speechless-smiley-004:

for wife's purplish blue Vitz..some Barney juice it shall be !

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go for the coolent called H2O. That is the best brand available.

Yep!!! and then in a while you can also go for a new water pump and radiator core too and paint them red or green!!!! :sport-smiley-004:

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Yep!!! and then in a while you can also go for a new water pump and radiator core too and paint them red or green!!!! :sport-smiley-004:

recently i bought a brand new radiator for my vehicle, with 2 year warranty

they said the warranty is void if I put coolant, and asked me to put only water

so, I dont think your point has a value

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recently i bought a brand new radiator for my vehicle, with 2 year warranty

they said the warranty is void if I put coolant, and asked me to put only water

so, I dont think your point has a value

Do you think your point has value????? You add only water and soon after "those two years" rust is going to be a component in your cooling system very likely requiring replacement of your water pump and you would very likely have a blocked radiator with all the rust particles. Then you go to your radiator guy and very likely he''ll talk you into buying another radiator. Remember he lives selling radiators., Do you live buying radiators????? Got the point??????

if someone said that coolant makes your radiator warranty void, that's utter horseradish

Now THAT has value!!!! :sport-smiley-004:

Edited by CJ5
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"Genuine Toyota Long Life Antifreeze Coolant, with its distinctive red appearance, provides maximum protection without the use of harmful silicates. This formula is extremely durable and because of its compatibility with non-metallic materials, it helps extend the life of water pump seals.

Will not clog radiators from silicone "gelling."
Will not corrode aluminum surfaces like coolants that contain borate.
Helps protect water pump seals. "

apparently green contains silicates. which corrode seals etc when exposed to cold temperatures. there you have it.

in our sunny little slice of paradise, there really isn't a difference mate. the color is a DYE so that you KNOW when you've got a radiator leak.

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I'm having a Toyota Allion 260 ,2007 model. what is the engine coolant that should be used with this vehicle?

Red or Green coolant is better for my car? please experts help me...........

Red is having more resale value ne,

So use red coolent and say wine red coolent in the advert.

Oh god why weren't these toyota guys born red-green colour blind :D

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Do you think your point has value????? You add only water and soon after "those two years" rust is going to be a component in your cooling system very likely requiring replacement of your water pump and you would very likely have a blocked radiator with all the rust particles. Then you go to your radiator guy and very likely he''ll talk you into buying another radiator. Remember he lives selling radiators., Do you live buying radiators????? Got the point??????

Now THAT has value!!!! :sport-smiley-004:

CJ5, I have a 20 year old car and for most of its life it's only had water as a coolant. To be perfectly honest all of the above components you mentioned are in perfectly good condition.

The fact is coolant increases cooling efficiency and slows down corrosion but it does not completely eliminate it, because they are still mixed in with water. Also radiator coolant is highly toxic. The first coat of oxide actually forms a protective barrier particularly in aluminum engines to stop further oxidation. This also only usually becomes an issue with cars that are not run regularly, as regularly run cars have don't seem to suffer deposits. If what you say is true, none of the engines and radiators of cars from the 1960s would have survived :)

So while coolant is useful to have, it's value is often overstated by people selling coolant.

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CJ5, I have a 20 year old car and for most of its life it's only had water as a coolant. To be perfectly honest all of the above components you mentioned are in perfectly good condition.

So you use only water and have no rust in your cooling system? ie. when you open the radiator cap/resevoir bottle the water is clear and not rusty?

The fact is coolant increases cooling efficiency and slows down corrosion but it does not completely eliminate it

Agreed!!! That's why coolant is recommended to be changed every two years or so.

Also radiator coolant is highly toxic. The first coat of oxide actually forms a protective barrier particularly in aluminum engines to stop further oxidation. This also only usually becomes an issue with cars that are not run regularly, as regularly run cars have don't seem to suffer deposits. If what you say is true, none of the engines and radiators of cars from the 1960s would have survived :)

So while coolant is useful to have, it's value is often overstated by people selling coolant.

Yes of course the stuff is highly toxic if consumed by humans or animals but for the cooling system of a vehicle it's not toxic isn't it???? :)

I also have a 54 year old jeep and a 26 year old Jap car in the family owned since new. The jeep I doubt would ever have seen the color of coolant and If I am correct the stuff was not available during that era. Anyway it had rust in the radiator when I got it 27 years ago. Didn't all those old cars from the 50s-60s have perennial engine-boiling problems going up country, mainly due to rust blocked radiators???? The jeep which has a cast-iron engine too had it's share of problems with rust and the radiator core was also changed.

On the other hand the 26 year old Jap car has absolutely no rust in the cooling system, still has the original water pump, radiator core etc etc which IMO have lasted all this while due to the fact that it uses coolent and the coolant has been changed once about every two years since 1987.

As for me, IMO I feel using coolent over plain water does have a significant benefit specially in aluminium engines. :)

BTW - I don't sell any coolant for a living!!!

Edited by CJ5
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So you use only water and have no rust in your cooling system? ie. when you open the radiator cap/resevoir bottle the water is clear and not rusty?

Agreed!!! That's why coolant is recommended to be changed every two years or so.

Yes of course the stuff is highly toxic if consumed by humans or animals but for the cooling system of a vehicle it's not toxic isn't it???? :)

I also have a 54 year old jeep and a 26 year old Jap car owned since new. The jeep I doubt would ever have seen the color of coolant and If I am correct the stuff was not available during that era. Anyway it had rust in the radiator when I got it 27 years ago. Didn't all those old cars from the 50s-60s have prennial engine-boiling problems going up country, mainly due to rust blocked radiators???? The jeep which has a cast-iron engine too had it's share of problems with rust and the radiator core was also changed.

On the other hand the 26 year old Jap car has absolutely no rust in the cooling system, still has the original water pump, radiator core etc etc which IMO have lasted all this while due to the fact that it uses coolent and the coolant has been changed once about every two years since 1987.

As for me, IMO I feel using coolent over plain water does have a significant benefit specially in aluminium engines. :)

BTW - I don't sell any coolant for a living!!!

Books say that some anti freeze compounds in coolants can damage aluminum engines,

But in SL they don't mention what kind of ------- they put into it,

Don't know if it's just water colored to find leaks :D

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So you use only water and have no rust in your cooling system? ie. when you open the radiator cap/resevoir bottle the water is clear and not rusty?

Agreed!!! That's why coolant is recommended to be changed every two years or so.

I also have a 54 year old jeep and a 26 year old Jap car owned since new. The jeep has not seen the color of coolant and If I am correct the stuff was not available during that era. Didn't all those old cars from the 50s-60s have perennial engine-boiling problems going up country mainly due to rust blocked radiators???? The jeep too had it's share of problems with rust and the radiator core was also changed. On the other hand the 26 year old Jap car has absolutely no rust in the cooling system, still has the original water pump, radiator core etc etc which IMO have lasted all this while due to the fact that it uses coolent and the coolant has been changed once about every two years since 1987.

As for me, IMO I feel using coolent over plain water does have a significant benefit. :)

.

C J5,

I did log into the forum only this morning.

I think your Jeep is older than you.

You have posted correct information on 1950 to 1970 era. If I am correct. Japanese cars first came in 1980 had the coolant in their radiators to SL.

All hill country roads had water filling by the road side. Ksdgannawa to Kandy had number of water filling places by the road side

In pre 1940s I have heard. All Euro and USA build vehicles what we had. Radiator boiling problem most of those vehicles had only two fan blades in their radiator fans.

Then one famous bass(FAN BASS)developed additional two blades to be four blades. To all Vehicles what were on the road at that time.

He dominated that business so that, no one could enter that due to his low charges. This Fan bass’s development and his charges were the cheapest in Colombo. He had his garage in Union place. Where Automobile trade was.

Good old day’s vehicles had copper and steel radiators, newer vehicles are made of aluminum and plastic.

In my opinion, universal coolant which is green color is best for our climatic conditions.

The original glycol-based “green” antifreeze & coolant is familiar In SL They have quick-acting silicate and phosphate corrosion inhibitors.

This familiar green liquid has proven in all the temperature extremes in countries where extreme weather conditions exist.

Therefore any vehicle can use this fluid. This green coolant is universal coolant this has a short life.

You have to change every 25,000 Kilometers or once in two years.

Some coolants have different colors will be expensive than green coolant.

Some coolants’ do change color when they are time to change.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

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Books say that some anti freeze compounds in coolants can damage aluminum engines,

But in SL they don't mention what kind of ------- they put into it,

Don't know if it's just water colored to find leaks :D

Antifreeze/coolant and anti-rust/coolant are two different things isn't it?????

The stuff we have here is not antifreeze/coolant, is it????. If I am correct it's Its anti-rust/coolant that we get here ie.ABRO. I too have heard that in extremely cold climates using antifreeze/coolant there could be some type of a "gel" forming with time which can clog and even damage components in the cooling system. But here in SL even N'eliya actually cannot be called "cold" and I don't think anyone uses anti-freeze/coolant here!!!

I think your Jeep is older than you.

Sylvi,

Yes!! It is much older than me!!

Edited by CJ5
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Antifreeze/coolant and anti-rust/coolant are two different things isn't it?????

The stuff we have here is not antifreeze/coolant, is it????. If I am correct it's Its anti-rust/coolant that we get here ie.ABRO. I too have heard that in extremely cold climates using antifreeze/coolant there could be some type of a "gel" forming with time which can clog and even damage components in the cooling system. But here in SL even N'eliya actually cannot be called "cold" and I don't think anyone uses anti-freeze/coolant here!!!

yup it must be

I was only refering to the user's manual of the car

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Hi all

small question as below

My coolent container shwing cooolent level near to minimum Mark and I purchased a Wurth ( Consentrated ) coolent can and it advices to mix with it 1:3 with water

I don't know the exact brand name of the existing coolent on the container. (because it from manufacturer)

So Is it ok to mix Wurth coolent to the coolet container OR should I remove ( Flush ) coolent system and then apply new coolent to it ?

Note : My Car is Suzuki Swift

Thanks

Edited by akboselk
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Hi all

small question as below

My coolent container shwing cooolent level near to minimum Mark and I purchased a Wurth ( Consentrated ) coolent can and it advices to mix with it 1:3 with water

I don't know the exact brand name of the existing coolent on the container. (because it from manufacturer)

So Is it ok to mix Wurth coolent to the coolet container OR should I remove ( Flush ) coolent system and then apply new coolent to it ?

Note : My Car is Suzuki Swift

Thanks

Mixing is not advisable unless topping up with the same brand. Still if the coolent in the system is older than two years, total replacement is the way to go IMO. If the coolent type you are about to use (wurth) says it should not be mixed with any other then avoid mixing. I recently faced your situation in a Suzuki which I have and I drained the entire radiator and flushed the system with a hose and water to get all the old coolent out ( it had the red color coolent) and then filled up with the green coolent (wurth) mixed as recommended.

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Mixing is not advisable unless topping up with the same brand. Still if the coolent in the system is older than two years, total replacement is the way to go IMO. If the coolent type you are about to use (wurth) says it should not be mixed with any other then avoid mixing. I recently faced your situation in a Suzuki which I have and I drained the entire radiator and flushed the system with a hose and water to get all the old coolent out ( it had the red color coolent) and then filled up with the green coolent (wurth) mixed as recommended.

CJ5,

Just curious, when flushing the raddiator, do you keep the engine running for a bit to get the coolent out of the water pump & internals ?

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CJ5,

Just curious, when flushing the raddiator, do you keep the engine running for a bit to get the coolent out of the water pump & internals ?

Yes. What I did was first let the engine warm up at idling for about 5mnts with the heater on hot to circulate those lines as well. Switched the engine off and then first unscrewed the drain plug on the radiator and then opened the radiator cap.( you have to do it extremely carefully to avoid getting scalded). After all the coolent had drained out I closed the drain plug filled the radiator with water closed the radiator cap and let the engine idle for another two three mnts and then again drained out. Did this twice until the water was clear.

Then leaving the drain plug and cap open I fed the radiator with water from the garden-hose and ran the engine for about 5mnts just to wash out anything remaining. Then put the drain plug back in, filled the radiator with the coolent, cleaned the bottle thorughly and filled it upto the mark and then after usual running the next day checked the coolent level in the botttle and topped up. That level remains even now.

Edited by CJ5
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