Jump to content
  • Welcome to AutoLanka

    :action-smiley-028: We found you speeding on AutoLanka Forums without any registration! If you want the best experience, please sign in. Safe driving! 

Motorcycle Maintenance.


Watchman

Recommended Posts

Since we're looking at a relatively small question-base when it comes to motorcycles I thought a single thread might be more useful than a bunch of scattered short threads.

So here's my situation. My bike's chain is stretched out. The adjusters are stretched to the max and the chain is still kinda slack. So I was thinking i could bring forward the adjuster and remove a link in the chain to compensate for it. But a few bikers here said not to do it and to replace the chain and both the sprockets to even out wear and tear. This sounds like overkill to me. What do you guys think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depends on how badly your chain is worn.

generally when sprockets go out, its time to replace the whole lot at once.

But if you strongly feel the chain has life, removing a link should work.

BUT, in my experience once you do that, the chain will not fit properly over the sprocket and the sprockets will be eaten out a lot faster. Chains and sprocket stretch and wear together so meddling with one generally screws up that "balance"

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replace both sprockets and the chain like ripper said.....not worth the hassle or danger of having a chain snap on you.

Think I paid around £70 mail order on the set for my AX1 from the UK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HI guys...

Since the subject came to surface, thought to seek info regarding spare parts for a Japanese made motorbike.

1991-HONDA-CB-125T.jpg

Bike is HONDA CB 125T . We have a one at home and Its my dada's daily runner. He bought it over a 15 years ago. Currently its in pretty bad shape and it breaks my heart to see him riding it like that. The bike share's a lot of history with us, hence my dad is bit reluctant to sell it. So my intention is to give it a little makeover.

Main requirements

Two Silencers (Genuine/Used)

All Lamps - Head, Tail and Turn Indicators

Speedometer

Body decals

If you go in to detail, there are some tiny tiny things which needs attention but those are the main concerns. I want to know a place where i could find those things for a reasonable price. I've asked around and some said to go to Kurunegala but failed to mention an exact place. So i'm bit worried to visit there without knowing jack about which places to visit and what people to talk.

So guys i would be grateful if any of you could share your expertise on the subject.

Many thanks

P.S. Ripper, mate i think you know thing or two about these things,.. appreciate a helping hand. :)

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for my issue, I was doing some closer inspection and noticed that the sprocket has worn down a bit; such that when the chain sits within the sprocket it stikk has a tad of movement that shouldnt be there.

As for the parts for the CB125, Nikko motors in rajagiriya is a place worth checking out.. they seem to be fairly well stocked when it comes to parts. In fact I got myself a clutch cable and a pair of daytona brake pads for the XR200 at pretty decent prices.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Watchman,

If you see signs of wear on sprockets it will be best to replace the whole lot.

If you are at the limit of chain adjustment chances are the sprockets are worn pretty bad as well.

Removing a chain link is a no-no as you may ride with a tighter but heavily worn out chain. Not worth risking a chain snap - although rare - when you are travelling at speed.

If the chain is regularly cleaned and lubed, you could probably make the sprockets last two or three chain replacements. However each replacment chain will wear out faster when run with old sprockets.

You could also try silicone spray-on chain lube instead of gear oil or grease.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for the parts for the CB125, Nikko motors in rajagiriya is a place worth checking out.. they seem to be fairly well stocked when it comes to parts. In fact I got myself a clutch cable and a pair of daytona brake pads for the XR200 at pretty decent prices.

Hi Watchman.. Thanks for the info mate.. I just gave them a call and they said that those parts are not with them at the moment and gave me some other number to contact. That place is Nalinda motors Maradana.. They have the Silencers and quoted 40K for brand new genuine pair..

That's too much money considering the market value of the bike.. if this is gonna be the case, i'm better off with finding a bike which is in good condition and buying it...

Anyway, should look in to used/reconditioned parts and see how they are going..

All suggestions are welcome..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all!

Check with Janaka Motors in Panchikawatte... they have all original and Taiwan/Korean parts (barring the silencers) for quite reasonable prices.

Regarding the silencers, i suggest a walk up and down Panchi and check out all the used parts places. they are desperate for a sale and so will definitely be able to find you a decent set of used silencers.... then its up to you and bargaining. it's amazing the prices you get some stuff which you never thought you'll find here.....

the CB 125T is a very good and reliable bike and therefore there are quite a few on the road, so parts wont be hard to find....

all the best with the project!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all!

Check with Janaka Motors in Panchikawatte... they have all original and Taiwan/Korean parts (barring the silencers) for quite reasonable prices.

Regarding the silencers, i suggest a walk up and down Panchi and check out all the used parts places. they are desperate for a sale and so will definitely be able to find you a decent set of used silencers.... then its up to you and bargaining. it's amazing the prices you get some stuff which you never thought you'll find here.....

the CB 125T is a very good and reliable bike and therefore there are quite a few on the road, so parts wont be hard to find....

all the best with the project!!

Hi Beetlerox..

Welcome to Auto Lanka mate.. Thank you very much for the info.. If i am to visit panchi, i should definitely find a person which has good bargaining skills.. Me no good at it. :) If i can find the parts from panchikawatte alone, that would be a great time and money saving than to visit Kurunegala...

We'll see.. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Watchman, If you see signs of wear on sprockets it will be best to replace the whole lot. If you are at the limit of chain adjustment chances are the sprockets are worn pretty bad as well. Removing a chain link is a no-no as you may ride with a tighter but heavily worn out chain. Not worth risking a chain snap - although rare - when you are travelling at speed. If the chain is regularly cleaned and lubed, you could probably make the sprockets last two or three chain replacements. However each replacment chain will wear out faster when run with old sprockets. You could also try silicone spray-on chain lube instead of gear oil or grease.

Yeah, since the sprockets did feel worn out and based on the advice I got, I decided to change the entire set. I checked up with a shop for parts/price and will be going by there this weekend.

I actually DID have the chain pop-out on me once a few weeks ago.. I was riding along when suddenly I felt a sudden jerk and the engine stalled. I moved to the roadside and learnt that the chain had slipped off the sprocket. I had been hearing the rattling of the loose chain for a couple of days before that but was just too busy to get it sorted out. Anyhow, put it back in place by hand and rode home on the 2nd gear. Then adjusted it to the max but still have a bit more slak than I would like. So I rider pretty cautiously cos that moment the chain comes off with a bang is pretty darn scary, and dont wanna go through it again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember my father used to take the chains off his BSAs and Triumphs once in a couple of months, soak them in a bucket of kerosine oil, thoroughly clean with cotton rags, apply gear oil 'evenly' througout and put them back on. He rarely had to change chains and sprockets. Perhaps kerosine bath is not a good idea for some modern chains with rubber packing and o-rings.

I also remember that bikes we had with wrap-around chain cases (i.e. C90 and CD185 road master)needed very little chain maintenance albeit a bit of lube once in a while and the chains and sprockets ran for ages. Most modern bikes do not come with chain cases and to be honest bikes with chain cases looked rather unsexy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the CB 125T is a very good and reliable bike quote]

very much so!

It was one of "the" bikes in SL late '80 s early '90 s. Reliable, good looking, comfortable but had the power and grunt if you happened to twist the throttle a bit hard. It appealed to a wide range of riders from those in their early 20s to those in mid to late 40s hauling a wife and a couple of kids in morning office / school run.

Shame that cost of petrol, shortage of parts and cheap indian imports gradually made people to shift away from these bikes. Glad to see some trying to keep the remaining specimens running.

Edited by HardHat
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember my father used to take the chains off his BSAs and Triumphs once in a couple of months, soak them in a bucket of kerosine oil, thoroughly clean with cotton rags, apply gear oil 'evenly' througout and put them back on. He rarely had to change chains and sprockets. Perhaps kerosine bath is not a good idea for some modern chains with rubber packing and o-rings. I also remember that bikes we had with wrap-around chain cases (i.e. C90 and CD185 road master)needed very little chain maintenance albeit a bit of lube once in a while and the chains and sprockets ran for ages. Most modern bikes do not come with chain cases and to be honest bikes with chain cases looked rather unsexy.

yeah I've been told these new O-ring chains shouldnt be cleaned with kerosene (or wd40) as it could turn the rubber brittle. So I just use a chain lube whenever I see the chain drying up. And I'm not too sure if/when the previous owner changed the sprockets n chain, so no harm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, replaced the sprockets and chain over the weekend; and boy were those sprockets worn out.

Check out the front sprocket, you can actually see the teeth wear curving into the metal. The rear sprocket wasnt curved but the gaps on the sprockets were def much much deeper than the identical new ones I replaced them with.

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/7384/20130112114053.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the chain has run too tight for some period of time, hence the heavy curving at the bottom of cogs but the tops are still blunt. Under normal circumstances you would expect to see the tops of the teeth sharpen up as sprocket wears out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, any idea where I can get a 16T sprocket for my 2000 TU250x which comes with a 15T front sprocket stock?

The only place I've found em is ebay, currently. Most shops just flat out say they don't have em or just keep insisting the 16T won't work if the default it 15.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, any idea where I can get a 16T sprocket for my 2000 TU250x which comes with a 15T front sprocket stock?

The only place I've found em is ebay, currently. Most shops just flat out say they don't have em or just keep insisting the 16T won't work if the default it 15.

I think the shops might have a point. When you increase the tooth-count the sprocket inevitably becomes larger. I know someone who tried using a larger sprocket. the issue was that it rubbed against the sprocket cover sometimes.

I would think that if you want to change the ratio, you might be better off decreasing the tooth-count on the rear sprocket. It'll have the same effect, but less complicated cos its not so cramped on that end..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the chain has run too tight for some period of time, hence the heavy curving at the bottom of cogs but the tops are still blunt. Under normal circumstances you would expect to see the tops of the teeth sharpen up as sprocket wears out.

Ohh.. thanks for that bit of info.. i didnt know that the curving happens when the chain's too tight..

I've always had that issue of finding the right balance point between the too tight and too loose. Different mechanics have been tightening it to different levels. And since its a scrambler (hence greater swing arm travel) and I often take a pillion I prefer it to be a bit slack, so i end up loosening it a bit more after the mechanic's done his job. Normally i goto about 2-3 inches of movement when the bike's not loaded..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohh.. thanks for that bit of info.. i didnt know that the curving happens when the chain's too tight..

I've always had that issue of finding the right balance point between the too tight and too loose. Different mechanics have been tightening it to different levels. And since its a scrambler (hence greater swing arm travel) and I often take a pillion I prefer it to be a bit slack, so i end up loosening it a bit more after the mechanic's done his job. Normally i goto about 2-3 inches of movement when the bike's not loaded..

How does having a passenger riding on the pillion make a difference?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How does having a passenger riding on the pillion make a difference?

Well since the suspension is softer the swing arm moves up (rather, the bike rides lower) with weight and the distance between the sprockets increases. Hence you need a bit more slack.

Edit: I guess its more evident in scramblers since my scrambler-specialist mechanic always asks me to sit on the bike when adjusting the chain while the neighbourhood generic bike shop doesn't...

Edited by Watchman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, any idea where I can get a 16T sprocket for my 2000 TU250x which comes with a 15T front sprocket stock?

The only place I've found em is ebay, currently. Most shops just flat out say they don't have em or just keep insisting the 16T won't work if the default it 15.

What's the intended purpose of increasing the size of front sprocket? targetting low engine revs at high speeds? If this is the target you do realize that slightly low RPMs will come at a compromise, i.e. more strain on the gears and a tad bit slower acceleration?

As Watchman said changing the drive ratio is usually done by changing both front and rear sprockets and also chain to match in most cases. But I don't really know if changing one sprocket wouldn't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well since the suspension is softer the swing arm moves up (rather, the bike rides lower) with weight and the distance between the sprockets increases. Hence you need a bit more slack.

Edit: I guess its more evident in scramblers since my scrambler-specialist mechanic always asks me to sit on the bike when adjusting the chain while the neighbourhood generic bike shop doesn't...

Yep, on a trail bike it's almost impossible to find a right chain adjustment which would suit all conditions - on road / off road / rider only / rider + pillian. If you adjust the chain to suit a rider only set-up for example, it will be too tight when a pillian climbs onboard Edited by HardHat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's the intended purpose of increasing the size of front sprocket? targetting low engine revs at high speeds? If this is the target you do realize that slightly low RPMs will come at a compromise, i.e. more strain on the gears and a tad bit slower acceleration?

As Watchman said changing the drive ratio is usually done by changing both front and rear sprockets and also chain to match in most cases. But I don't really know if changing one sprocket wouldn't work.

I think the shops might have a point. When you increase the tooth-count the sprocket inevitably becomes larger. I know someone who tried using a larger sprocket. the issue was that it rubbed against the sprocket cover sometimes.

I would think that if you want to change the ratio, you might be better off decreasing the tooth-count on the rear sprocket. It'll have the same effect, but less complicated cos its not so cramped on that end..

Well I'm mostly going by what many users on the volty forums and other enthusiast sites have recommended for this particular bike. Apparently it can handle it quite well and cruising is a lot more enjoyable.

I understand there will be less acceleration but that's apparently not too big of a deal, and honestly I'd be glad if the first gear was even a bit more useful. A few people went the whole hog and replaced the rear-sprocket too, but that was a bit overkill according to most.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


AutoLanka Cars For Sale

Post Your Ad Free [Click Here]



×
×
  • Create New...