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Komisiripala

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eat. sleep. jdm.

that about sums up my obsession over the last 3 months or so. what first started out as a casual remark by Charith Kulasiri, gradually became malignant. "you know, what if you did a type R conversion on this?"

Ever since I got hold of the GSR teg, this idea has been clawing its way around my brain. Finally, I set about doing it, but to do what must be done to its finest detail is no easy task. My end goal, is to have a 4 door integra db8 type-R in concourse condition. i'll break it down systemwise as i proceed.

my apologies for keeping this away from the AL forums for as long as i have, and i must say this is a conversation i wish to share and enjoy with like minded petrolheads. not the prii driving thel hinganno whose first queries are "wow how much did that cost?" or "now how much petrol does it do?" if you are the latter, read on in awe about how real tuners pump out over 200 HP from an engine the size of a mega bottle. or just go hug a panda.

firstly, here's the base car: before i bought it. a GSR spec 1998 mint Honda Integra DB8.

000633891.jpg

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so i riced it up. forgive me. we all have our moments. at least, after a snide remark from schiffer, i saw this was not the way to go.

here it is after i did the interior and exterior.

photo13q.jpg

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now, the fun part. over the next few months or so i'll post what i've been up to with the:

1. engine

2. gearbox

3. ECU and tuning

4. intake/exhaust

5. cooling

6. suspension/handling

7. exterior detailing

8. interior detailing

Edited by Komisiripala
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1. ENGINE

-B18C3 DOHC VTEC SIR-2

The b18c3 black-top is found in the 1996 JDM integra type R. and the JDM spec SiR-G sedan. Lots of rumours regarding the 3 in the C3. Some say its just an area code. As in made in Taiwan/Hong Kong. Others say it’s the closest Honda ever got to B18 nirvana. The head is from a B16 type R, and the individually numbered C3’s are rumored to have been ported and polished by Spoon Sports Japan. Factory specs are as follows, compared to the other two well known B18’s

camsspec.jpg

Urban legends notwithstanding, this is one rare and much sought after motor in the west, and I suspect the spooning rumor has a big part to play in that! To me however, this means I don’t have to port and polish.

- brian crower stage 2 street performance camshafts

The stock camshafts are low lift, for more low end torque, and Honda R&D took great pains to make the shift to vtec as “seamless” as they would like. (why, oh god why??) basically designed for an automatic.

Crower stage 2 is high lift, and vtec engagement is much more pronounced, which, after all is what we want, yo! After much research decided on these over blox HSL’s and stage 1’s. Skunk2 was beyond budget.

to reach that elusive 10,000 rpm redline, its also necessary to upgrade the springs and retainers, piston sleeves and bearings.

camsspec2.jpg

Brian Crower Performance valve springs and retainers

its also necessary to upgrade the valvetrain if i’m to avoid the dangers of high RPM. inadequate valve springs and retainers can lead to broken springs, causing the valve to fall into the chamber, and that, would literally leave me in tears. Crower springs are stiffer to meet increased demand, and essentially protect the valvetrain. i opted for steel retainers over titanium as they are more durable and also, simply because i can’t bloody afford titanium!

naturally, a set of adjustable cam gears are also included.

BCSpring pressure:

1.350” @ 80lbs

Open 0.900” @ 220lbs

Coil bind: 0.765” Stock: 0.833”

Weight: 46g Stock: 48g

- ACL main and connecting rod bearings are also going in to ensure nothing pops at that redline.

Edited by Komisiripala
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2. GEARBOX

the auto had to go. clearly. it broke down thrive in the last year, and gave me sufficient excuses to go get my self a third pedal. not just any third pedal, mind you. one from an EK9 type R.

B16A2 EK9 type R box with helical LSD

Hydraulic clutch.

Gear ratios are as follows:

gearratios.jpg

Type R pressure plate, clutch plate

- DC2 Type R flywheel

- Type R trans-axles

sourced the clutch pedal from an EK2. was a perfect fit. wasn't able to get hold of the other two for a complete conversion, so had to cut the brake. but a set of carbon fibre sparco pedal covers should cover that up neatly.

had a few small issues with the shifter linkage being a tad bit too short. thankfully indika is an expert at figuring this sort of thing out.

Edited by Komisiripala
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Komi, she is adorable mate ... one of the finest jobs i've seen, congrats..

Don't know whether i sound stupid. If so pls pardon me... what if the Integ emboss / impression on the bumpers can be highlighted by using an electric red PVC sticker ? might look smashing :)

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Komi, she is adorable mate ... one of the finest jobs i've seen, congrats..

Don't know whether i sound stupid. If so pls pardon me... what if the Integ emboss / impression on the bumpers can be highlighted by using an electric red PVC sticker ? might look smashing :)/>

There's a teg with that around. I'm looking into shipping in a new front end. Mine is pretty messed up.

At the races mates. Wait I've got a lot more in store

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IGNITION

replaced the plugs with ngk iridium numbers. Also threw in an MSD blaster coil and ngk wires.

INTAKE/EXHAUST

replaced the stock intake with a skunk2 pro manifold and an s90 70mm throttle body. Coupled to a short ram intake and a simota cone filter

The stock 4:2:1 header was replaced with a mugen DC2 type r 4:1 header. With thermal wrapping and 2" piping leading to a tanabe medallion muffler. As nippy as it might be, I want this car to he quiet, despite the power gains.

Edited by Komisiripala
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some photos:

here's the box:

photo22mx.jpg

removed the auto. the flywheel screws had to be replaced. the MT ones are longer. its funny how every little thing int he tranny from this to the mounts have been reinforced to handle more torque. quite frightening in a very very nice way!

photovyb.jpg

and here it is, bolted into place.

photo1hr.jpg

had to source the pedal(s) locally. couldn't find the A and B, so got the C off an EK2. it was a perfect fit. not a bolt out of place. its funny how this car was made for a manual but someone decided to stick an auto in there. every little part had its place, with the bolt holes deleted by rubber bushings.

photo2owp.jpg

and there it is, the cheeky little bugger!

photo23a.jpg

have to unceremoniously cut the brake pedal, tho. so invested in some sparco carbon fiber pedals to cover up the evidence. got these directly from sparco italy. tough as nails, light as a feather. impressed!

pedalsl.jpg

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Looking great there machan..Nice to see that you are doing everything properly without taking any short cuts. Upload more pics please -they don't really have to be in any order. :) Replace all the oil seals, ribber bushings,etc which you have everything off the car mate..Good luck with all your future work..

Cheers.

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Looking great there machan..Nice to see that you are doing everything properly without taking any short cuts. Upload more pics please -they don't really have to be in any order. :) Replace all the oil seals, ribber bushings,etc which you have everything off the car mate..Good luck with all your future work..

Cheers.

engine build planned for january. yeah ill be changing color so everything will be stripped off the engine bay for that. i intend to get the engine detailed minutely. all the little hoses and wires and thingeys will have their place. fixing all oil leaks and grime splatters.

one thing you need with a build of this mgnitude is infinite patience. and then some. i haven't had the car for two months now

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INTAKE EXHAUST UPDATE

here's the intake manifold. a Skunk2 S2 pro 70mm. coupled with the s90 70mm throttle body

photo24jk.jpg

got a simota cone to fit. need to fabricate a housing like the stock box, so i can use the existing cold air piping leading out from under the car.

photo25zp.jpg

there's a Mugen DC2 4:1 header in there as well. its still in its wrapping. plus it has a thermal insulation which needs to be wrapped. will post pics of it once i'm done.

for the moment going with stock fuel rail and injectors. planning to keep the latter, but ordered this:

kgrhqflue9mg50ubpdph4c4.jpg

need to sort out the exhaust piping. plus get hold of that tanabe soon. getting it done as soon as the car is out. :)

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INTERIOR

this is one of the costliest and painstaking parts of the build. making a 15 year old car look like it rolled off the plant yesterday is no easy task and the interior is where the age shows the most.

firstly, here's the stock interior:

000848868.jpg

this is not off my car, but its the same tan interior.

here;s my goal:

36021470.jpg

so, the tan had to go. did a lot of research with my paint guy and sourced an epoxy interior paint with a heat and electrolyte (sweat) resistant primer from italy. redid in satin black.

photo27r.jpg

photo28o.jpg

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getting the felt bits done in fabric.

threw in all the other little type R parts as well. including...

the momo type R DC2 steering. with an airbag of course. cost me packet for one in good shape, and after a buffing with shoe polish, it looks killer!

photo30c.jpg

got hold of a type R DC2 gauge cluster as well.

photo1ir.png

and of course, the type R clock with the amber digits! details details...

photo21wl.jpg

and then there's the gear boot/knob. black rexin with the red herringbone stitch, OEM honda.

photodn.png

photo3ty.jpg

i might keep the seatelts tan. its good to have a little reminder of what the car was. but the seats will definitely be replaced. the rear will be upholstered in black, while a pair of black recaros will replace the fronts. again, in time. recaros are harima ganang!!

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