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Car Stalling When Shifting Gears.


NRX

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Hi folks,

I was driving yesterday and stopped the car to pump petrol. After that was driving for about 1 minute and suddenly felt a jerk when shifting gears (in every gear shift). I noticed that the RPM drops to 0 when I shift gears , that is letting go off the Accelerator and press the clutch and shift the gear. The jerk happens because the engine is stopped and it then starts again as I put it to gear (Just like a push start). After few minutes of high RPM driving the issue was gone but after stopping the car and starting again the car stalled, had to keep the foot on accelerator to keep the car from stalling, then it was ok. So this basically happens time to time.

The car is a FB13 with a Carburetor.

This is the first time the problem occured but it had the following issues.

* Car had a small miss and the idling was a bit rough.

* Recently the idle up mechanism refused to work when I switch on AC or lights. So as a fix the makabass increased the idle RPM a bit because he was lazy to do a full diagnosis or a tuneup.

* Have to press accelerator to start the cold engine but the Car starts fine when the engine is hot enough.

** Car misses violently when pressing and letting go of the brake only when the car is idle. We checked the brake booster and it was good, no vacuum leaks.

Please note that the fuel filter and the air filter is only 200Kms old :)

Could anyone help to identlfy the issue before taking the car to a garage ? Will have to wait for the next weekend for it.

UPDATE

Hi Guys!

Wanted to update you on this topic, I went to a popular place in Seeduwa (a race driver *wink*) that was mentioned in the forum and got the carburetor repair done with mixed feelings, While the engine is smoother than before I still have few niggles. It still has a miss which occurs when suddenly releasing the accelerator while driving in a high gear (like 2nd ,3rd ), When this happens the car jerks a lot.This was there even before the repair and still not fixed, Note that this occurs rarely. I mentioned this to the "Bass" and his response was junk. He was saying like " Okkoma hadanna ba parana wahanane, duwanna puluwan widiyata hadaagana thiyenne" Which I think is BS.

Most of the items from the repair kit was unused, and only a part of the carb was disassembled and cleaned. So I think it is a reason for the above issue. And I was expecting him to inspect water from the tail pipe and tune the carb as others have mentioned in the forum which he never did. Though I was charged close to 4K for labor :)

Edited by NRX
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+1

did you checked the plugs,wires ? recently? Fb 13 is having a electric carb as i can remember. seems you need a full tune up.

Checked the plugs few months back, was fine, didn't check the wires though. Yes! it has an electronic carburetor.

The problem is the garages I talked to are reluctant to take part in carburetor repairs. :/

Edited by NRX
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What happens if you dont let go of the throttle fully when shifting and release the clutch very slowly ?

Also it doesnt happen when only the clutch is pressed right ?

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What happens if you dont let go of the throttle fully when shifting and release the clutch very slowly ?

Also it doesnt happen when only the clutch is pressed right ?

It stays alive as long as I slightly keep the foot on the gas. Don't think the clutch has any effect on it, do you think ?

Edited by NRX
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Can we attribute the miss when applying brake to that as well mate ?

brake booster works off the intake vacuum generated by the motor in petrol engines. So if your carb is not setup properly the symptoms you describe can happen.

it can be as simple as a vacuum leak somewhere.... i'd first check the vacuum line from the intake to the brake booster to see if there are any leaks, then the booster itself

If that checks out...it should be the carb.

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It stays alive as long as I slightly keep the foot on the gas. Don't think the clutch has any effect on it, do you think ?

Nope, just checking.

I think ripper is correct, definitle sounds like something related to the throttle or carb.

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Misses and loss of power when cold which go away when the engine is old is also characteristics with problems with the injector jet. I think the time has come for you to do a full carb repair with a genuine Nissan carb repair kit and then a tune up afterwards.

If no other garage will handle it try Macro Rattanapitiya. In the good old days when the FB13 was new, they were one of the first to start repairing electronic carburettors.

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Misses and loss of power when cold which go away when the engine is old is also characteristics with problems with the injector jet. I think the time has come for you to do a full carb repair with a genuine Nissan carb repair kit and then a tune up afterwards.

If no other garage will handle it try Macro Rattanapitiya. In the good old days when the FB13 was new, they were one of the first to start repairing electronic carburettors.

Don, Do you think we can buy the original carb repair kit from our market ?

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Don, Do you think we can buy the original carb repair kit from our market ?

Many years ago I bought one for our family's Mazda from Carmart and the price was reasonable. For a popular Nissan it should be possible but go to place with a reputation (I think Pioneer motors have been mentioned a few times for Nissan) or check with A*W as their prices tend to be quite reasonable too.

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Many years ago I bought one for our family's Mazda from Carmart and the price was reasonable. For a popular Nissan it should be possible but go to place with a reputation (I think Pioneer motors have been mentioned a few times for Nissan) or check with A*W as their prices tend to be quite reasonable too.

Forgot to mention in the first post, When I usually open the fuel filler cap a high pressure is released, Can feel the sound and petrol smell. It used to be a suction sound few months back, What usually it should be ? Suction or pressure ?

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Forgot to mention in the first post, When I usually open the fuel filler cap a high pressure is released, Can feel the sound and petrol smell. It used to be a suction sound few months back, What usually it should be ? Suction or pressure ?

the tank fuel vent is clogged!

what happens is as fuel is drawn out of the tank, air must replace that space to keep from forming a partial vacuum. There is a vent in the tank to keep things balanced.

Even this can cause stalling issues.

I had a similar problem in my truck few months back. Truck would stall out every 300-400 metres or so. But at times it would run fine.

cleaned the tank vent and problem solved.

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the tank fuel vent is clogged!

what happens is as fuel is drawn out of the tank, air must replace that space to keep from forming a partial vacuum. There is a vent in the tank to keep things balanced.

Even this can cause stalling issues.

I had a similar problem in my truck few months back. Truck would stall out every 300-400 metres or so. But at times it would run fine.

cleaned the tank vent and problem solved.

+1

I had the same problem myself. As the fuel was running out the engine needed more and more cranks to come to life. You really feel that massive pressure stabilization when you open the filler cap.

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the tank fuel vent is clogged!

what happens is as fuel is drawn out of the tank, air must replace that space to keep from forming a partial vacuum. There is a vent in the tank to keep things balanced.

Even this can cause stalling issues.

I had a similar problem in my truck few months back. Truck would stall out every 300-400 metres or so. But at times it would run fine.

cleaned the tank vent and problem solved.

+1

I had the same problem myself. As the fuel was running out the engine needed more and more cranks to come to life. You really feel that massive pressure stabilization when you open the filler cap.

Well it's a high pressure in my case, not vacuum. Could it be the tank vent ?

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Many years ago I bought one for our family's Mazda from Carmart and the price was reasonable. For a popular Nissan it should be possible but go to place with a reputation (I think Pioneer motors have been mentioned a few times for Nissan) or check with A*W as their prices tend to be quite reasonable too.

Checked the prices from A*W - Rs 2280 for Genuine Nissan Kit, Pioneer Motors - Rs 1750 for A japanese kit. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys!

Wanted to update you on this topic, I went to a popular place in Seeduwa (a race driver *wink*) that was mentioned in the forum and got the carburetor repair done with mixed feelings, While the engine is smoother than before I still have few niggles. It still has a miss which occurs when suddenly releasing the accelerator while driving in a high gear (like 2nd ,3rd ), When this happens the car jerks a lot.This was there even before the repair and still not fixed, Note that this occurs rarely. I mentioned this to the "Bass" and his response was junk. He was saying like " Okkoma hadanna ba parana wahanane, duwanna puluwan widiyata hadaagana thiyenne" Which I think is BS.

Most of the items from the repair kit was unused, and only a part of the carb was disassembled and cleaned. So I think it is a reason for the above issue. And I was expecting him to inspect water from the tail pipe and tune the carb as others have mentioned in the forum which he never did. Though I was charged close to 4K for labor :)

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Hi Guys!

Wanted to update you on this topic, I went to a popular place in Seeduwa (a race driver *wink*) that was mentioned in the forum and got the carburetor repair done with mixed feelings, While the engine is smoother than before I still have few niggles. It still has a miss which occurs when suddenly releasing the accelerator while driving in a high gear (like 2nd ,3rd ), When this happens the car jerks a lot.This was there even before the repair and still not fixed, Note that this occurs rarely. I mentioned this to the "Bass" and his response was junk. He was saying like " Okkoma hadanna ba parana wahanane, duwanna puluwan widiyata hadaagana thiyenne" Which I think is BS.

Most of the items from the repair kit was unused, and only a part of the carb was disassembled and cleaned. So I think it is a reason for the above issue. And I was expecting him to inspect water from the tail pipe and tune the carb as others have mentioned in the forum which he never did. Though I was charged close to 4K for labor :)

NRX, water from the tail pipe is not a proper indicator of the car being in tune. I had a leaking injector (cab engine) once with bad fuel economy but there was water spilling out of the exhaust.

While I accept some disappointment with the fact that not all of the issues were resolved by the repair it can be very tricky to resolve problems like the ones you have. The issue is replacing the entire carb system is not an option (since brand new replacements is too expensive and as vehicles get older even used spares become difficult to find) so there might be issues with the system which is not easy to detect. It sounds like the air fuel mixture does not re adjust quickly enough when you let go of the accelerator at high speed.

Did you use the original carb repair kit for your car? And is your carb an electronic carburettor?

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NRX, water from the tail pipe is not a proper indicator of the car being in tune. I had a leaking injector (cab engine) once with bad fuel economy but there was water spilling out of the exhaust.

While I accept some disappointment with the fact that not all of the issues were resolved by the repair it can be very tricky to resolve problems like the ones you have. The issue is replacing the entire carb system is not an option (since brand new replacements is too expensive and as vehicles get older even used spares become difficult to find) so there might be issues with the system which is not easy to detect. It sounds like the air fuel mixture does not re adjust quickly enough when you let go of the accelerator at high speed.

Did you use the original carb repair kit for your car? And is your carb an electronic carburettor?

Thank you Don for the reply. AFAIK the carb is an electronic one, FB13 carbs are electronic as I've heard, but since mine is a brand new import the things could be different ( Different emission control regulations ? ), the engine is also GA14DS . There are few wires coming to the carb in addition to the one coming to the auto choke, so an electronic carb may be ? I had to settle with the Japanese kit (The same kit I mentioned that pioneer had) as time and distance didn't allow me to visit A*W to get the original kit. The brand is called "Keyster" and it mostly had proper size jets as mentioned in a repair manual save for one jet sized 86, the kit had 95 or vice versa. The carb had a jet sized 155 where the required one was 135. Replaced it with the correct one too.

BTW the auto choke didn't work before the repair, he showed me that it wasn't properly connected, he fixed it but forgot to adjust it, So I still have to floor the gas to get the car started, but when it's started the idling is very smooth unlike before. But when comparing the hot engine before the repair and after the repair , the latter takes relatively longer cranking time to get the engine started. Any reason for that ?

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Thank you Don for the reply. AFAIK the carb is an electronic one, FB13 carbs are electronic as I've heard, but since mine is a brand new import the things could be different ( Different emission control regulations ? ), the engine is also GA14DS . There are few wires coming to the carb in addition to the one coming to the auto choke, so an electronic carb may be ? I had to settle with the Japanese kit (The same kit I mentioned that pioneer had) as time and distance didn't allow me to visit A*W to get the original kit. The brand is called "Keyster" and it mostly had proper size jets as mentioned in a repair manual save for one jet sized 86, the kit had 95 or vice versa. The carb had a jet sized 155 where the required one was 135. Replaced it with the correct one too.

BTW the auto choke didn't work before the repair, he showed me that it wasn't properly connected, he fixed it but forgot to adjust it, So I still have to floor the gas to get the car started, but when it's started the idling is very smooth unlike before. But when comparing the hot engine before the repair and after the repair , the latter takes relatively longer cranking time to get the engine started. Any reason for that ?

Ironically your issue is consistent with not having the correct sized injector......... I had the same problem but in my case the original Mazda kit was used (so the jet size was correct) but when removing the existing jet it cracked and it had to be drilled out and the replacement started leaking a bit fuel economy went down. Ironically the car was very smooth and started straight away. But when my father realised (this was many years ago) the problem he took the car back to Macro who did the repair, they did a test, admitted the problem and replaced the jet with a smaller one to compensate, and while fuel economy improved, the car lost power, was more difficult to start and sluggish under acceleration. My father decided fuel economy was more important than performance and I was too young to do anything about it.

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