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Idling


jami

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What is the standard Idling rpm? when we drive on a down-hill without acceleration. and why the engine stop on a down-hill?

is it related to dead btry?? And when the engine start RPM shows at 1000 and suddenly drop to 400 and again raise to 1000. (Auto)

Any idea on these matters?

Edited by jami
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Ok since this is an idling related thread, my car did something weird today, so I'll start with everything I did which led up to that moment.

Saturday - Went shopping, plenty of stops and starts - Engine properly warmed up

Sunday - Went out for lunch, engine switched off only while at restaurant, only drive of the day, to and from restaurant (rajagiriya, 0 traffic) - Engine properly warmed up

Monday - Started car once just less than a minute to pull out of garage to wash car, and then put back in, again started up for less than 10 seconds. Both times no use of accelerator, idle torque at startup is enough for the car to manage small gradients.

Tuesday - Idle the whole day, took a personal day from work.

Today - Car started up like a cold diesel, rough idling and it appeared to be running on 3 cylinders initially. However it did settle down inside of a minute, and I let the entire warm up procedure complete before pulling out.

So, the question I put forth is, what could have caused the rough idling? It was the first time ever this car has done it.

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"engine type Auto"

I DON'T WANT TO LIVE ON THIS PLANET ANYMORE

engine type auto - means gear box auto, thats what it means.

If you don't know common sense, you better leave this planet machan :sport-smiley-027: and the forum also,

Edited by jami
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Ok since this is an idling related thread, my car did something weird today, so I'll start with everything I did which led up to that moment.

Saturday - Went shopping, plenty of stops and starts - Engine properly warmed up

Sunday - Went out for lunch, engine switched off only while at restaurant, only drive of the day, to and from restaurant (rajagiriya, 0 traffic) - Engine properly warmed up

Monday - Started car once just less than a minute to pull out of garage to wash car, and then put back in, again started up for less than 10 seconds. Both times no use of accelerator, idle torque at startup is enough for the car to manage small gradients.

Tuesday - Idle the whole day, took a personal day from work.

Today - Car started up like a cold diesel, rough idling and it appeared to be running on 3 cylinders initially. However it did settle down inside of a minute, and I let the entire warm up procedure complete before pulling out.

So, the question I put forth is, what could have caused the rough idling? It was the first time ever this car has done it.

so by warming the engine you can raise the rpm initially but at the end it will drop down. but why it drop dwn to less than 400, and why it is suddenly drop when the initial start done.

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Ok since this is an idling related thread, my car did something weird today, so I'll start with everything I did which led up to that moment.

Saturday - Went shopping, plenty of stops and starts - Engine properly warmed up

Sunday - Went out for lunch, engine switched off only while at restaurant, only drive of the day, to and from restaurant (rajagiriya, 0 traffic) - Engine properly warmed up

Monday - Started car once just less than a minute to pull out of garage to wash car, and then put back in, again started up for less than 10 seconds. Both times no use of accelerator, idle torque at startup is enough for the car to manage small gradients.

Tuesday - Idle the whole day, took a personal day from work.

Today - Car started up like a cold diesel, rough idling and it appeared to be running on 3 cylinders initially. However it did settle down inside of a minute, and I let the entire warm up procedure complete before pulling out.

So, the question I put forth is, what could have caused the rough idling? It was the first time ever this car has done it.

Whenever the engine feels like its running on 3 cylinders that could exactly be the problem as well though it's not as simple. What kind of ignition does your car have (as in electronic ignition without a distributor with the coil pack in the spark plug connector itself or a separate distributor with coil pack)?

My advice is if it happens again, is to stop the car, disconnect the wire from one spark plug and start again. the cylinder where the situation does not deteriorate any further by removing the wire is the problem cylinder. Then remove the spark plug and inspect, clean and put back and start the car again. If it does not fix the issue swap plugs with another cylinder and perform the above test to check if swapping plugs have transferred the problem to the other cylinder. If it has the culprit is a failed spark plug. If it doesn't the problem might be in the distributor or any of the electrical wires and connectors in the distributor.

Now this is not the only cause of a rough engine, but one of the simplest problems to eliminate. If you have an error code scanner the error should be logged there as well. Other issues mostly relate to fuel injection system, sensors or the idle control valve.

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engine type auto - means gear box auto, thats what it means.

If you don't know common sense, you better leave this planet machan :sport-smiley-027: and the forum also,

i thought common sense is to call gearbox a gearbox and engine an engine... :speechless-smiley-004:

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Whenever the engine feels like its running on 3 cylinders that could exactly be the problem as well though it's not as simple. What kind of ignition does your car have (as in electronic ignition without a distributor with the coil pack in the spark plug connector itself or a separate distributor with coil pack)?

My advice is if it happens again, is to stop the car, disconnect the wire from one spark plug and start again. the cylinder where the situation does not deteriorate any further by removing the wire is the problem cylinder. Then remove the spark plug and inspect, clean and put back and start the car again. If it does not fix the issue swap plugs with another cylinder and perform the above test to check if swapping plugs have transferred the problem to the other cylinder. If it has the culprit is a failed spark plug. If it doesn't the problem might be in the distributor or any of the electrical wires and connectors in the distributor.

Now this is not the only cause of a rough engine, but one of the simplest problems to eliminate. If you have an error code scanner the error should be logged there as well. Other issues mostly relate to fuel injection system, sensors or the idle control valve.

Thanks Don, that makes sense. The engine is the ubiquitous 1NZ-FE, and I haven't seen a distributor anywhere, so I'm guessing ignition is fully electronic. I'll try the spark plug test this weekend if the problem persists.

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check the ICV it might have dust so clean it up and also check the AFM as it might have rust inside it which might be blocking the air flow from the air filter and if blocked it wont mix up with petrol causing un burn petrol and the engine cannot idle due to that. Check and clean the ICV and AFM.

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