Diy How To Change Disk Brake Pads And Rotors The Correct Way

[blkr6]

This job is done in a 1998 Toyota Avalon you can use this as a basic guide on any vehicle that you work on.

Things your need,

Jack, Brakes, Rotors, Brake cleaner, C-clamp, Socket set, Grease, Disk brake Quiet spray or paste, Gloves and Beer

1. Pull the Hand Brakes, Block the rear Wheel, Loosen lug Nuts, Lift the Car using a Jack, Support it with safety jack stands, Remove the wheel

2. Remove two 14mm Caliper bolts (i like to turn the wheel towards me so i have more room to work). Do not let the Caliper hang off of the rubber hose. Place it somewhere or use a bungee cord keep the weight off from the hose. After removing the caliper remove the Brake pads off of the bracket.

3. Remove the Caliper Bracket by removing two 17mm bolts

[blkr6]

4. Remove the Rotor. Best way to do it is hit it with a hammer and it will come loose. (do not hit the stud)

5. Clean all the brake parts and new rotors with brake cleaner (new rotors comes with oil sprayed to keep in the parts store shelf with out rusting)

6. Get the New Brake pads and spray the back plate with disk brake quiet (this is a optional step, but this will absorb all the vibration and gives you quieter squeal free braking)

[blkr6]

7. Remove the pins from the caliper bracket, clean the pins, and re-grease them

8. Install the New rotor, Caliper Bracket and the caliper with just one bolt as the picture below

9. Compress the caliper using the C-clamp

10. Install Pads

11. Slide the Caliper in and tighten both bolts.

12. tighten everything and double check for errors.

13. put back your wheel and make sure to install lugs in cris-cross pattern with even torque.

14. Pump the brakes and check the Brake Fluid level

Your Job is done and enjoy the beer!

Edited April 4, 2012 by blkr6

[Sylvi]

blkr6,

Good educational value post.For our A/L Members.

Beer is expensive can have three toddy glasses for the cost of Beer. Enjoy the Srilankan Toddy.

Sylvi Wijesinghe.

[MeanGreenZ28]

Nice writeup!

however, I wouldn't recommend pushing the old brake fluid back into the master cylinder while compressing the piston back into the caliper. I'd open up the bleeder screw before compressing the piston so the old fluid could be expelled; crimping the rubber brake line while doing it would make it better (there's a tool for this, or use locking pliers but make sure the hose is protected from the sharp edges of the jaws). Then refill the master cylinder and pump the brakes after install is complete.

However, you'd want to bleed the entire brake system after the brake job since the fluid does go bad over time; absorbs water from the air and reduces the boiling point of the fluid. Have a helper pump the pedal a few times slowly and hold pressure, open the bleeder screw, let the fluid flow, and close when his foot hits the floorboard (or when the flow stops). Do this a few times till the brake fluid turns clear and you have no air in the system. Important: start with the furthest to the master cylinder and work towards the closest. Example: for a RHD car in SL ... Left Rear > Right Rear > Left Front > Right Front

Edited February 24, 2012 by MeanGreenZ28

[Watchman]

speaking of pushing brake fluid back into the cylinder I have a question;

My level of brake fluid in bike's front reservoir has gone down a bit. And I wanted to refill it. And as you shouldnt mix different brake fluids, I asked the previous owner what B/fluid he uses, and he wasnt sure. But then he gave me an unusual bit of advice. He said that the level goes down only when the brake pads wear out and the next time you replace the pads the level will reach the top again..How would you guys recommend I proceed with this?

[Ripper]

speaking of pushing brake fluid back into the cylinder I have a question;

My level of brake fluid in bike's front reservoir has gone down a bit. And I wanted to refill it. And as you shouldnt mix different brake fluids, I asked the previous owner what B/fluid he uses, and he wasnt sure. But then he gave me an unusual bit of advice. He said that the level goes down only when the brake pads wear out and the next time you replace the pads the level will reach the top again..How would you guys recommend I proceed with this?

XR's usually have DOT4 fluid machang! Pad wear and level story has some truth to it...

but since you got the bike now and the previous guy not knowing what fluid he used... It's best you bleed it and use new oil

Pretty easy to do on bike when compared to a 4 wheeler!

[Watchman]

Yeah, I dont mind bleeding it and using fresh oil.

I was planning a oil change + chain lube session this weekend; so i'll add the brakes to the list

[mensoft]

Good Job !!!!!! :yahoo:

[osanda19]

Nice work bro..thanks for sharing with us :-)

[Nilantha]

can't we use GAL Arakku insted of BEER?

[Davy]

Thanks a lot blkr6, I was waiting for this! :-)

Brake cleaner and Disk Brake Quiet - can I purchase them from an ordinary auto spare parts shop?

[blkr6]

Thanks a lot blkr6, I was waiting for this! :-)

Brake cleaner and Disk Brake Quiet - can I purchase them from an ordinary auto spare parts shop?

you are welcome! you should be able to find it at a auto parts store. there is a disk brake quiet in a paste form and they work better than the spray. While you are at it buy a bottle of silicone spray and spray on all the chassis rubber parts (boots, bushings etc) and wipe off excess with a cloth, all the rubber parts will last a long time. my cv boots are all original after 120k miles (knock on wood)

[blkr6]

can't we use GAL Arakku insted of BEER?

which ever floats your boat lol; beer, arakku, toddy, kasippu, ganja etc

[Davy]

you are welcome! you should be able to find it at a auto parts store. there is a disk brake quiet in a paste form and they work better than the spray. While you are at it buy a bottle of silicone spray and spray on all the chassis rubber parts (boots, bushings etc) and wipe off excess with a cloth, all the rubber parts will last a long time. my cv boots are all original after 120k miles (knock on wood)

I was able to find Brake Cleaner ("Brake and Contact Cleaner" it says on the can) and I used it to clean the front brakes. Works pretty well!

I replaced the front brake pads on my Lancer CS3 last weekend and it was a success, thanks to you. Had a little trouble pushing the piston back because I didnt have a c-clamp so I hooked up a nut and bolt (with a washer) to push it inside.

Thanks again blkr6!

[Ripper]

I was able to find Brake Cleaner ("Brake and Contact Cleaner" it says on the can) and I used it to clean the front brakes. Works pretty well!

I replaced the front brake pads on my Lancer CS3 last weekend and it was a success, thanks to you. Had a little trouble pushing the piston back because I didnt have a c-clamp so I hooked up a nut and bolt (with a washer) to push it inside.

Thanks again blkr6!

there are lots of DIY vids on youtube mate. some of them have nifty little tips to get over little hiccups. like not having specialized tools!

[blkr6]

I was able to find Brake Cleaner ("Brake and Contact Cleaner" it says on the can) and I used it to clean the front brakes. Works pretty well!

I replaced the front brake pads on my Lancer CS3 last weekend and it was a success, thanks to you. Had a little trouble pushing the piston back because I didnt have a c-clamp so I hooked up a nut and bolt (with a washer) to push it inside.

Thanks again blkr6!

You are Welcome! let me know if you have any other repair related questions. i love help and i am glad to hear feedback!

[Davy]

there are lots of DIY vids on youtube mate. some of them have nifty little tips to get over little hiccups. like not having specialized tools!

Thanks for the tip Ripper. Will remember to do that next time I get stuck.

[blkr6]

Guys i have to make a Correction. Use silicone base grease on you caliper pins.

[The Don]

Guys i have to make a Correction. Use silicone base grease on you caliper pins.

They call it rubber grease in SL and the most common brand is Seiken who is famous for their brake washers and liners.