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JadeyBlitzen

My Complete Noah Build

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i think two tone is bit old fashion. but i think 3R3 is good. i put sample paint. but looks like very good look.

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Is that a fixed sunroof?

The front one tilts and the rear one slides open completely.

Hey,

JadeyBlitze

I want to get ma seats Re-fixed..Tell me good place to do that??Ma seat set type is this version shown in the pic.. :)

0300271A20111225W00111.jpg

if the seats aren't part of a conversion kit you'll have to fabricate the seat mounts to fit the 3rd row seats and weld nuts to the floor for the 2nd row. anyway its really hard to do this right unless you got the carpet from the model those seats came in. because you wouldn't know the original mounting points of those seats.

anyway if you are not serious about a noah conversion in the future any seat fitting place will do I guess.

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i think two tone is bit old fashion. but i think 3R3 is good. i put sample paint. but looks like very good look.

I share the same sentiments on two tone paint. but where I disagree is painting an old late 90s design in the color of a modern car comes.

I know what you are thinking. If you paint it in the same colour as an allion it will look modern and fresh like an allion. But it won't. just take a look at how these modern cars you mentioned curve around its corners, around the waistline and how the side profile is so simple. Now take a Noah and see. its curves are either wider or tighter at every comparable place. just look at the bottom section of it. Its a mess of ridges and curves and sudden shape changes. In fact toyota was so concerned about this part most of their paint options were two tone (white, silver, beige and gold were the only standalone colours they offered)

Trust me 3R3 will look brilliant on a small flat section like the fuel filler flap or at most the bonnet. but paint the busy body of your van and you'll just leave people laughing in your wake.

So try to keep your conversion original and paint the entire body in 3K3 or 3N3 if you must go for red. if you change your mind I'll give you the paint codes of other colours.

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Like your mods super!

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awesome job where got done at?

Dude, one thing you need to realize, there`s basically NO “one stop mod shop” in SL to get mods/conversions and what not done on CARS..!!! Aint` no West Coast Customs there to dump a pile of cash and to expect good results (well, if you dump a truck load of cash somebody might still do it FOR you but good luck finding that place/person).

Certain people/garages are good at certain things, you MUST do your own research, run around, find parts, find contacts, etc… to get things done on CARS..!!!

Generally, “get everything done under one roof” places tend to screw you up in style..!

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Great job bro.....!!! Some ppl have a wrong idea, which it's not possible to convert 5 door model to NOAH. Also in autolanka. Please explain more about how u convert fifth door area for fit rear A/C controlers. It will be more important for lot of in here.

Falling in love with your vehicle. :smilie_liebe9:

Thanx for sharing......

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honestly I think the best way to go about this job is to replace the entire side panel with a side cut from a 4 door model complete with the step.

It took us about a month just to seal the door and the amount of effort and skill needed is unbelievable. I only realised this after seeing another cr41 that was converted from 5 doors to 4. it was full of ripples uneven panel gaps and shoddily finished.

here's some of the basic steps I had to go through. the frame around the door was cut open and the outer skin of the door was used to cover the gap where the door was. then another front door lay down its life to cover the gaps the centre door rail and the door handle left. then we had to stretch the c pillar and shorten the b pillar to accept the bigger window and we also fabricated a frame for the window seal. then we lowered the step by about an inch to accommodate the a/c unit. and did some major strengthening work from the inside using the original beams and fabricated the inner bodywork using whats left of the door.

Looking at this pic you could probably see how much sleep the boys lost finishing this job

402322_10150537348091259_504486258_11208160_485902538_n.jpg

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Next NOAH Build started...........

p5121921.jpg

Edited by Nilantha

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Good job on the Noah build bro! I too had my kr41 converted to noah about 2yrs back including a 3cturbo engine fitted. Its a pretty good job but its not as detailed as yours:) Anyway ive got most of the major stuff done. I have done it to the field tourer model.

Recently I got the speedometer changed, its the blue one with an rpm meter. It comes for this version. But the electrician is unable to wire up the rpm meter. He connected everything else but this.

The ECU was changed with the engine. But I did not change the wire harness. Is it possible for him to wire it without changing the wire harness. The engine has an rpm line and its the new ECU so it should be possible right?

Also I was wondering if speedometers are selective for EFI engines and etc.

If you have any idea about the wiring please help. Btw have u got an RPM meter on yours?

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without changing wiring harnus RPM can fix but it is time consuming job. so no one will take the job to complete. with RPM, the meter board wiring come with 4 sockets. check this picture. but if without RPM it comes as 3 sockets. so if you wish to have clean working and clean wiring better you change with CR41 NOAH wiring harnus.

3C turbo engine not comes with sensors (but it has RPM sensor) but it has Emission control system. when you convert your vehicle to diesel if you fix engine wiring properly you can take 15kmpl when you go long run.

47334572.jpg

this is with RPM

Another thing is petrol RPM meter and Diesel RPM meter not equal. petrol RPM meter can't fix with Diesel RPM (Petrol - signal - Digital, Diesel - Signal - Analog)

Edited by Nilantha

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Thanks alot bro! I think I better get a wire harness..is it freely available n how much would it cost? any recomended shop in delkanda?

Yup my meter is a diesel meter. Is the 3c non turbo meter (thats the EFI engine right?) compatible with the 3c turbo engine? was just wondering if i ve ended up with a 3c non turbo meter..mebe thats why its not working?

Machan what do u mean by connecting the engine wiring properly when doing the diesel conversion? Is there any way i can check if its been done properly?

I get around 11kmpl outstation, 8 in the city. what abt u?

Also I see u dont have the e-brake as a foot pedal, urs is the usual handbrake. Were u unable to find a foot brake or is that how it is in ur version?

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Thanks alot bro! I think I better get a wire harness..is it freely available n how much would it cost? any recomended shop in delkanda?

Yup my meter is a diesel meter. Is the 3c non turbo meter (thats the EFI engine right?) compatible with the 3c turbo engine? was just wondering if i ve ended up with a 3c non turbo meter..mebe thats why its not working?

Machan what do u mean by connecting the engine wiring properly when doing the diesel conversion? Is there any way i can check if its been done properly?

I get around 11kmpl outstation, 8 in the city. what abt u?

Also I see u dont have the e-brake as a foot pedal, urs is the usual handbrake. Were u unable to find a foot brake or is that how it is in ur version?

First of all, provided you got the right meter panel (rpm goes up to 6, redlines at 5) you'll need the dashboard wire harness or at least the socket for the rpm gauge. forget finding a complete dashboard harness. not many would sell it without the dashboard and no one would wanna sell a perfectly good dashboard harness without the other components like the engine etc.So just try to find the 2 sockets for the meter panel and the ecu. meter panel sockets are aplenty cos so many shops bring down dashboards with the harnesses cut. so you should be able to get one from a helpful place. as for the ecu socket you can get one off a carina ecu iirc. either way if you go to a shop with the ecu in hand you should be able to find it. then provided the ecu does send a signal for rpm you should be able to hook the two up directly or though a circuit if the signals dont match. a good electrician should be able to do this for you. if the ecu does not send a signal you can hook it up directly using the signal from the engine. But even for this a circuit might be needed.

Anyway dont worry too much about the ecu cos it only makes a very small difference. kind of like the computer of a electronically controlled carb. what you should check is if all the vacuum lines in your engine is hooked up properly (they usually are when you get a complete engine). And crucially you need to have your exhaust changed cos this makes a huge difference. The other thing is you need to get the final drive ratio right. this is inside the rear diff and you'll have to change the entire axle to a noah unit. this should cost you something around 20k. you can identify a noah rear axle from the absence of bump stop receiving points i.e. the 2 square sections found on the top side of the axle where the rubber bump stops touch the axle (this is only there on the cargo model). you can make sure the gearing ratio is right without taking it apart by turning the pinion and counting the number times it turns when a wheel turns once (only one wheel will turn) your current ratio should be 4.778:1, so the pinion will turn 2.38~2.4 times when the wheel turns once . the right ratio for an automatic noah is 4.3 so you should find one that turns 2.15 times.

Anyway get all this right and you should get around 12km/l from day to day driving. Mines a manual 4wd and I've done all these mods including changing both front and rear axles for 4.1 units. The whole thing weighs 1.6 tonnes and I recently found out I get 11-12 km on day to day driving.

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Anyway get all this right and you should get around 12km/l from day to day driving. Mines a manual 4wd and I've done all these mods including changing both front and rear axles for 4.1 units. The whole thing weighs 1.6 tonnes and I recently found out I get 11-12 km on day to day driving.

JadeyBlitzen do u have any idea about NOAH Auto close sliding door wiring?

Edited by Nilantha

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JadeyBlitzen do u have any idea about NOAH Auto close sliding door wiring?

As long as all the parts are from the same donor vehicle and provided it had the auto closing function it should work. Mines worked since the moment I hooked everything up.

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I ve got the right meter board, the cut off is at 5000rpm. The electrician says he cant wire it cos its the 3c turbo engine. If it was a EFI engine he says he can wire it easily. I would like to know where I can get it done via a "circuit from the ecu/ engine" as u told before. Please can I have the contact details of any guy who can do it for sure. Thanks

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I ve got the right meter board, the cut off is at 5000rpm. The electrician says he cant wire it cos its the 3c turbo engine. If it was a EFI engine he says he can wire it easily. I would like to know where I can get it done via a "circuit from the ecu/ engine" as u told before. Please can I have the contact details of any guy who can do it for sure. Thanks

as i told you before simple thing is replace the wiring harnus under the dashboard. its the best way to complete the job clean. but before you do all, check whether you have RPM sensor on the injunction pump.

I fixed RPM to 2C engine.

Edited by Nilantha

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yup there is an rpm sensor on the engine. I have wired everything on the dashboard up with the old wire harness, my guy fixed the 4th port compared to e 3 ports that were there as u showed in the pic and individually did e wires. He even took a line from the rpm to the ecu but it didnt work. so i would prefer not to replace the harness. u said the wiring can be done via a circuit from the engine/ecu? Who can do this for me? Contact number please?

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yup there is an rpm sensor on the engine. I have wired everything on the dashboard up with the old wire harness, my guy fixed the 4th port compared to e 3 ports that were there as u showed in the pic and individually did e wires. He even took a line from the rpm to the ecu but it didnt work. so i would prefer not to replace the harness. u said the wiring can be done via a circuit from the engine/ecu? Who can do this for me? Contact number please?

i no have time to help on this, if u don't like to replace the wiring harnus i can tel you how cables are going from Injection pump RPM sensor to ECU and from ECU to Meter pannel. but this is time consume job. problem is thease days i don't have time do it.

can you tel me what is the ECU u r using? if your engine 3CT you have to use 3CT M/T or 3CT A/T ECU

Edited by Nilantha

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