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De-Modding A Crx. :)


heavyD

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Hey guys. I got myself a CRX recently, and there are some things on it I wanna change. I'd appreciate your help/advice. :)

First off, it's got a fart can, and it's incredibly loud. I need to buy a new muffler. Where can I buy a good one and how much do you think it'll cost?

Second, it's got a bodykit. Need to replace the bumpers and the side skirts with stock ones. I'm yet to go to Delkanda but I found used ones on ebay. Any ideas on how much customs tax I'll have to pay?

Third, the back end is sitting rather high up, so I want to lower it and level the car. How should I go about doing this? Of course, I won't do it myself obviously. :D

Lastly, it's a bit difficult to start up cold. It's got a carb engine and I've got to try it several times, with quite a bit of pedal pumping, before it fires up. Once I do get it started and it gets to running temperature, it's fine. It starts up instantly afterwards. What do you think is wrong?

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Hey guys. I got myself a CRX recently, and there are some things on it I wanna change. I'd appreciate your help/advice. :)

First off, it's got a fart can, and it's incredibly loud. I need to buy a new muffler. Where can I buy a good one and how much do you think it'll cost?

Second, it's got a bodykit. Need to replace the bumpers and the side skirts with stock ones. I'm yet to go to Delkanda but I found used ones on ebay. Any ideas on how much customs tax I'll have to pay?

Third, the back end is sitting rather high up, so I want to lower it and level the car. How should I go about doing this? Of course, I won't do it myself obviously. :D

Lastly, it's a bit difficult to start up cold. It's got a carb engine and I've got to try it several times, with quite a bit of pedal pumping, before it fires up. Once I do get it started and it gets to running temperature, it's fine. It starts up instantly afterwards. What do you think is wrong?

Big_D, can only answer the last question. The problem you describe tend to mostly happen because of either a clogged or a wrong sized injector nozzle used in the carb system. You can start off getting the throttle body and the nozzles etc cleaned, but if it's not too expensive you can get the original carburettor repair kit for your car and recondition the system.

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Big_D, can only answer the last question. The problem you describe tend to mostly happen because of either a clogged or a wrong sized injector nozzle used in the carb system. You can start off getting the throttle body and the nozzles etc cleaned, but if it's not too expensive you can get the original carburettor repair kit for your car and recondition the system.

Having the same problem with my FB13 too, idle is very rough after a cold start, have to pump gas several times to start the car without stalling, I thought it was because the car was said to ' Petrol wahala' :D

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Big_D, can only answer the last question. The problem you describe tend to mostly happen because of either a clogged or a wrong sized injector nozzle used in the carb system. You can start off getting the throttle body and the nozzles etc cleaned, but if it's not too expensive you can get the original carburettor repair kit for your car and recondition the system.

The repair kit sounds like a good idea, if it's pricing is reasonable. If not, cleaning the body and nozzles it is! Thanks Don.

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Big_D, I had a similar issue with my eg8 single carb & its due to malfunctioning auto choke . check for the chage in the idling speed after few mins. if theres no such thing ,i would say its due to a autochoke issue.

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Big_D, I had a similar issue with my eg8 single carb & its due to malfunctioning auto choke . check for the chage in the idling speed after few mins. if theres no such thing ,i would say its due to a autochoke issue.

There isn't any such change in the rpm, so you may be right. I'm taking it to the garage anyway.

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Guys, I got the car serviced about a month ago, where the engine oil was topped up. (I was recommended Lanka Super SAE-40). When I checked the oil level this morning, it was almost empty. There is some oil on some of the engine components, but I don't know for sure if it's a leak. If it is burning oil, and at such a rapid rate, what could be the problem? I'm gonna take it to the garage on Monday, but I just want to know what I'm facing here.

Oh btw, does anyone know the proper engine oil I should use?

Edited by Big_D
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Guys, I got the car serviced about a month ago, where the engine oil was topped up. (I was recommended Lanka Super SAE-40). When I checked the oil level this morning, it was almost empty. There is some oil on some of the engine components, but I don't know for sure if it's a leak. If it is burning oil, and at such a rapid rate, what could be the problem? I'm gonna take it to the garage on Monday, but I just want to know what I'm facing here.

Oh btw, does anyone know the proper engine oil I should use?

Did you just add oil instead of a full refill? Yes, maybe a leak. Anything 10W-30?

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Did you just add oil instead of a full refill? Yes, maybe a leak. Anything 10W-30?

No, drained the old oil, and put in a new can. The garage guy thinks it might be a leak as well, so he wants me to wash the engine so he can inspect it properly in a few days. However I do remember seeing blue smoke once when I accelerated hard.

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I thought Lanka Super SAE-40 oil is made for diesel engines, again am not really sure. Anyway check whether there's any oil stains where you park the car, if there isn't, try some new proper brand engine oil once more. Ohh and check whether the oil drain nut is properly fixed and not leaking..

Edited by shanX
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I think 10W40 or 15W40 is probably ok for your car. Blue smoke in these cars are mostly due to faulty valve seats, not too difficult to fix. If it only comes when you rev hard it's probably valve seats. If the engine seems to be covered in oil, it probably is an oil leak and check the gaskets and the oil seals. I hope it's not as major as the crank pulley oil seal.

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I thought Lanka Super SAE-40 oil is made for diesel engines, again am not really sure. Anyway check whether there's any oil stains where you park the car, if there isn't, try some new proper brand engine oil once more. Ohh and check whether the oil drain nut is properly fixed and not leaking..

You get a petrol version as well. The oil drain nut an oil filter were ok machan, but there is an oil leak somewhere. The underside of the engine was somewhat soaked.

I think 10W40 or 15W40 is probably ok for your car. Blue smoke in these cars are mostly due to faulty valve seats, not too difficult to fix. If it only comes when you rev hard it's probably valve seats. If the engine seems to be covered in oil, it probably is an oil leak and check the gaskets and the oil seals. I hope it's not as major as the crank pulley oil seal.

Now don't go scaring me man... I sure as hell hope not either. :D It's due at the garage in about a day or two. I'll keep you guys updated.

respect for attempting this... are you planing on just keeping it clean or tuning it.. a crx with a properly built b16 will definitely dominate the 1600 event at the drags...

I wanna keep it clean. And I don't have the cash to do a build. :)

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So I took the car back to the garage, and the guy tells me I gotta replace the piston rings. Does this explain the oil leakage and the black smoke? And is there anybody else I can get a second opinion from? I gotta leave aside about 50k for this.

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Piston rings, might be, but almost all the oil gone in a month??? Anyway did you refill and are you losing oil again?

Yeah, but I did drive a bit spiritedly in the last month. I poured in about a litre of oil on Saturday and it seems to be holding so far.

Oh and, you know that sound you get when you accelerate on, say the fourth gear at a low speed? That 'kara kara' like sound? Any idea what that is?

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Yeah, but I did drive a bit spiritedly in the last month. I poured in about a litre of oil on Saturday and it seems to be holding so far.

Oh and, you know that sound you get when you accelerate on, say the fourth gear at a low speed? That 'kara kara' like sound? Any idea what that is?

that sound is because u are in an in proper gear for the speed bro.. if u down shift it should go away....

and try to get a thicker oil since its an old motor the new thinner oils will seep through the seals..

40W should be thicker enough.. and use mineral oil not synthetic... u will have to replace it sooner but for my old astina the mineral oil seemed to hold the longest and gave enough protection. provided u change the oil at around 3500K.

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that sound is because u are in an in proper gear for the speed bro.. if u down shift it should go away....

and try to get a thicker oil since its an old motor the new thinner oils will seep through the seals..

40W should be thicker enough.. and use mineral oil not synthetic... u will have to replace it sooner but for my old astina the mineral oil seemed to hold the longest and gave enough protection. provided u change the oil at around 3500K.

Yeah I know it happens when you're in the wrong gear, but what exactly causes the noise? I also hear it when the radiator water level is rather low. (That happened in my old Sunny too.) And now after this engine oil issue, it seems to happen in almost every gear. Is that cause the engine is running hot?

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Oh and btw, a 15W-40 oil means that at cold temps the viscosity is low and at engine running temperature the viscosity is high, am I right? Because when I initially got the car, it had no oil, so the garage told me to put 15W-40 (Mobil 1000) for a few days. But when I took it to him afterwards, he said it seems to be too 'thin' and told me to put SAE 40 instead. But that's essentially the same thing, is it not?

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