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So i flushed and refilled the radiator coolant on my car today. just thought of sharing it in detail with you all who are willing to DIY, For the beginners like me to be precise. Things you Need: 1.) Radiator Flush 2.) Coolant 3.) A Garden Hose 4.) A rag/piece of cloth 5.) a bucket/tray to collect the water Step 1: * First make sure the engine is cool * Locate the drain tap below the radiator and remove it. * After Removing the drain tap Remove the radiator cap on the top * Let all water get drained and Collect it for future references Step 2: * Close the drain tap * Fill a small amount of water first * Fill the radiator with the Radiator Flush * Then fill in the radiator with water all the way and close the radiator cap * Start the engine and keep it idle for 10 - 20 minutes with the Heater ON (WARNING: Do Not Drive) * After 10 - 20 minutes, shut down the engine and wait till it cools down (approx - 1hour) Step 3: * After the engine has cooled down, Open the drain tap and then remove the top radiator cap (if not sure, use the rag/cloth to open the cap) * Squeeze the rubber pipes that transfer water and let all the water drain from the radiator * While the drain tap is open, run a hose from the radiator cap with slow flowing water so it wont overflow * While the water is running through the radiator, start the engine and let it idle with the heater on for another 10 minutes (might need a mate for that) * After 10 minutes or so in idle shut off the engine first and remove the hose * Collect the water to check whether the water is clean * Let the engine cool down for another hour or so before re-fitting the drain tap and radiator cap to avoid contact with the hot engine Step 4: * Re-fit the drain tap and fill it with coolant and water (make sure to use the right amount of coolant to water ratio, in my case 1:3) * There is no proper way to measure the water level, The best way is to determine with the collected water the first time you drain the radiator, Best thing is to use a water bottle when refilling to avoid spilling. * Top up the Reserve tank with proper coolant to water ratio (might have to remove the reserve tank from the car to get the water out) * Close the radiator cap and start the engine and let it idle for 10 minutes or so, so all the air will be out of the system and the coolant will be circulating properly in the system * let the engine cool down again and re-open the radiator cap, there will be less water this time so fill it with coolant and water till it reach the mouth of the cap and close the radiator cap. Things You Should Be Carefull With: * Wipe off water from the fan belts before starting the car * Make sure water want spew on to the distributer cap and so on * Before re-fitting drain tap make sure the engine is cooled down to avoid contact with a hot engine * Always fill it with coolant, Do Not Cheap out and just use water * If you have HID kits install, make sure water wont get contact with the balasters and wires. * Since the engine has to be on idle a lot, make sure there is proper ventilation for the exhaust fumes to go out. * Be gentle with the drain taps, since its made of plastic it might break off if way too much pressure is use. and for some cars like Mazda's u have to remove the drain tap with a wrench. Some Images of the process: Radiator Drain Tap: Existing Water in the Radiator (I removed the exisitng coolant the day before to do the process but because of the rain i couldn't proceed so filled with normal water before doing the flush): Filling Radiator Flush: Rubber Pipes to Squeeze: Heater ON: Collected Fluid after Flush: Running water through the radiator with the drain tap open and engine running: Collected water from the radiator after 10 minutes of constant flowing water: Refilling coolant: (1:3 - in my case) Refilling water (1:3 - i used a bottle to measure the needed ratio) Hope this will be helpful to someone. Good Luck.
I'm so sorry if this is a re posting but I could not find any solution by searching on forum. Yesterday night I found that my check brake light has suddenly pops and goes off in the dashboard time to time while I was driving. When I got back home I checked the brake fluid level and found that it has gone to the Min mark of the reservoir (The gap between Max-Min is about less than an inch) But as a total tank capacity the lost amount is also less than 1/4 of the full tank capacity. I did a full brake fluid flush with B*G Dot4 8months back with brake washers replacement and filled up to the Max level after job done which is 100% sure. Also did a washer leak check about a month back at the service station and there was no leaks found. Will this could be due to gradual evaporation through 8 months of not refilling or could be due to a minor leak? If it is a leak there should be air sucked inside and the paddle should be spongy? I don't feel any strange in paddling and the braking power of the car. Please help.
Hi Guys, I experimented with something that might come in handy for some of you guys, so I thought of sharing it. My car has Wurth frameless wipers (which cost me about 5500 back in early 2011) and now their time is up. So when I inquired about the price of a new pair, I found out that it had gone up to 7500. I seriously didn’t want to spend 3000 bucks extra just for frameless wipers because the normal Bosche wipers were about 3500 a pair. So I bought the Bosche (normal) pair. I searched for many places in Colombo to see if I can find wiper re-fill kit, but I couldn’t (Thanks for all those who helped including GTAm and H.C). eBay was out of the question in my case because the blades were really bad and I couldn’t drive around with the old set until the blades arrived. I was disappointed that I had to take off the frameless wipers because they looked way better than ordinary wipers. So I looked for the possibility of switching just the element from the new Bosche wiper, to the old Wurth housing. And it worked! Using them for over a week now without any issue. You need: A set of worn out frameless Wipers (in my case, Wurth), The new normal wipers (Bosche in my case), A micro screwdriver and a sharp blade. STEP ONE: Taking off the element from the new wiper The Bosche wiper had one location at with the frame held the element in place without letting it slide off the frame (as seen in the photo below). Use the flathead screwdriver and pry out the element from the frame. After that, the element can be pulled out from the frame. Most wiper elements with a frame has a stainless steel flexor to maintain the rigidity of the wiper element, the Bosche wipers I bought also had this, take the flexor off. It will just fall off once the element is removed. We do not need the flexor because the frameless wiper housing has a steel flexor. Now you have something equivalent to a re-fill. STEP TWO: Taking off the element from the OLD frameless wiper The two ends of the Wurth wiper could be easily removed with the use of the flathead micro screwdriver. Press the locations marked as “1” and pull the end out. Removing one end is sufficient as the element can be pulled out from same. Continued...