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Found 11 results

  1. lakshan20

    Good Place To Do A Touch-Up Paint Job

    Hi, It's a pearl-white color car (toyota aqua) & there are several light scratches (max would be about 3mm) scattered over about 4-5 inches in one side of the rear buffer. I checked with a place who does cut n polish. But they said that doing a cut n polish would not fix those scratches as the scratches are deep and the best solution would be doing a touch up paint job. Is there a good place to do a touch-up paint job? If so how much will it cost? Thanks,
  2. Does anyone know a body shop which would have one of those specialized chasis correction rigs? Where they put the vehicle on a table and pull from hydraulic devices to correct a frame? Or a recommended place that can do work on a slightly bent chasis to get it close to factory spec?
  3. Hi Guys, Posting a DYI again after quite some time. After I got new wheels for my car, the stock rims have been lying around and I thought of repairing them. Two of the wheels had nasty kerb damage thanks to the previous owner who was careless when parallel parking (wheels with the most damage were the ones on the left). When I was looking for a set of used BBS rims for my car, 90% of the rims I found had kerb damage. So the problem is pretty common and getting these professionally repaired and resprayed can cost a lot. If you are keen on doing this on your own, you might find this post useful. Things you need: Alloy wheel repair putty (eBay Link? This is a specially formulated putty to work with alloy wheels and I found it to be very effective. Sandpaper (200, 400, 800 wet, 1200 wet) Masking tape, scissors, old newspapers to mask Clean rags Water for wet sanding Wax and grease remover/Degreaser Old toothbrush Rubber gloves For illustration purposes, I have selected one area of a rim where you can see kerb damage. This is what I’ll be working with. Step 1: Prepare the surface for repair Using degreaser, toothbrush and a rag, scrub and clean the area and get the grime out of the damaged area. As you can see from the above photo, there’s a lot of grime in there. Next, use the coarse dry sandpaper to remove any material that maybe protruding out of the surface of the wheel. We need a smooth surface and the alloy wheel putty needs to fill in the scratches. The following photo is after sanding and washing the area. Step 2: Apply the repair Putty The putty is a stick and has the texture of crafting clay. It’s a two-part putty and you need to knead it between your fingers for the two parts to mix up (wear gloves for protection). Then roll it on a flat surface to form a very thin bead. Place the bead on the damaged area and press firmly. As the two parts start to react, you can feel the putty heat up. It hardens up rock solid within about 15 minutes. You can start sanding in about an hour. Remember not to apply excessive amounts of putty, because a lot of effort will be needed to sand it down if you do. The stuff is a bit harder to sand than regular body filler. This was the first spot I applied the putty to, I applied a little too much and had to spend a lot of time sanding it down. So once again, VERY little. This photo is probably a bad example of how to apply it, but you get what I mean. Step 3: Sanding Start with 200 grit dry sandpaper and work your way to a smooth surface. Use masking tape to prevent damage to the tyre. If you plan to do only a touch-up and not paint the entire wheel, you might need to mask the wheel as well, to avoid scratching it up. Run your bare fingers on the edge of the rim from time to time and feel the smoothness, you should be able to tell if there are imperfections. When the surface is smooth, move to wet sanding (first 800 grit and then 1200 grit to remove the fine scratches). If you plan to paint the entire wheel, water sand the wheel with these two papers so that the surface has a “blunt” texture. The new paint will stick better this way. After the sanding is done, the surface will look nice and smooth, no more kerb damage! It’s important to sand the putty down so that there is no excessive putty between the tyre and the wheel, you can insert the sandpaper into the gap and sand away, the original curve of the wheel needs to be maintained. As you can see from the above photos, I have sanded the putty all the way down to the rim so that the only bit remaining is the putty that fills the scratches. This is exactly what we need. If you feel like you need one more pass, go ahead and repeat step 2 and 3 again. This is it for the repair. All that is left now is to paint the area. I will cover that in a separate post. Let me know what you guys think and if you know of other ways of DIY methods to repair wheels. Thanks for reading! Cheers!
  4. Hi All, I just need to clarify following fact. According to some guys, engine bay color and body color is different in original factory paint. I have personally seen this difference. I have also seen some cars with same color in engine bay and body, but owners strongly claim that the paint is factory original. Can someone please explain me what is this color difference in engine bay and body ? Is this something depend on manufacturer and model or body color in engine bay cars are re-painted ? One of my friend told me not to buy a car with engine bay painted in body color. Is this a myth or true. Any advice would be helpful as i'm planning to buy a used car. Thanks a lot.
  5. Hi, Yesterday I noticed that there is a mango tree sap in my car bonnet. I tried to remove it using car wash and then using compound. But those options failed. What shall I do? thanks
  6. bimalnp4me

    Bonnet Paint - Black

    Hi Chaps.. I have a silver Mazda demio. I need to paint it's Hood black(Matt Black) ... 1. painting car hood in different colour is it illegal? 2. I might paint roof as well - is it illegal
  7. Hi Guys, I just thought of sharing a very bad experience I had during last few days. I think this information may help you in future. My car was damaged due to an road accident and taken it to a painter at Sri Subuthipura road, Battaramulla . Few people told me that this guy is a good painter. Since the place is very close to my house, I decided to go. My requirement was to patch the rear buffer and paint it again. For this work he took almost one week but did nothing. whenever I go there he is not available. his wife is there and every time she says he will come soon. But for these few days I didn't see this bugger is working except only one day. So I took my car back, and now searching a good painter near Athul Kotte , Rajagiriya and Battaramulla area to finish the work. Most annoying thing was, he never think of the worry that we have. He is a very lazy and irresponsible person. Though he agrees to finish the work on time when we go there he hasn't even start it. Other most important thing is, keeping the vehicle in this place at night. Last Wednesday I went to see my car around 9 pm on my way home. No body was there but the car was unlocked. I took my car and went home. then I tried to contact this person to inform him that I took the car. He didn't answer the phone. Next morning I went back to the place, but he didn't have a clue that the car is missing. Please avoid this place.
  8. dimdim

    Alloy Wheels - Buffing

    Hi All My alloy wheels are scraped , discolored etc and is not nice. I have read old threads but have not understood whether I should paint it or is there any other plating mechanism. Can you advise me how to sort this out and if you can let me know where to get it done in Colombo, how much cost approximately for a Mazda Demio. Thank you!
  9. I recently purchased a car and it has some dents scratches on the front bumper, another paint peel off (2x2cm area) on rear bumper and also another deep scratch on left side skirt. 1. I'm wondering if I should repair these before buying an insurance ? Or if I keep these dents as it is and buy the insuarance, will I be able to claim for another damage on a bumper ? Will they reduce the claim amount since it already had some dents? 2. Is it possible to do touch ups without fully re-painting the bumpers?
  10. Hi Guys, It’s been some time since I did a DIY worth mentioning about. Not having a car of my own yet, so nothing really going on these days under the hood. A good friend of mine wanted to get his rims painted in matte black and (knowing what a grease monkey I am) asked me if I can pull it off. Naturally, I said yes. So here’s the car. It’s a2007 Subaru Impreza WRX with a 2.5L Turbo Intercooled engine. A little rocket I would say. The rims on the car were silver. Original colour had been white and the previous owner had painted the faces in silver. The front wheels were covered in brake dust, so cleaning them took a quite long time. The photo below was taken after we took the car to a car wash and pressure washed all four wheels and giving them a good scrub. Still you can see a lot of brake dust and grime. Thanks to the previous owner, there were some prominent scratches on the left side rims because they got too close to the curb. So this was the starting point. The rims were still really dirty (especially on the reverse side), so we decided to take off each rim and give them a good clean up. Most people apply plasti-dip while the rims are on the car by masking off the brake components using a garbage bag. That was our initial plan, but the amount of dirt and grime on the rim was too much and a thorough clean-up was necessary. Plus, covering the inside of the rim cannot be done 100% if you paint the rims while they’re still on the car. This is what you will need: - Grease and grime remover (oven cleaner or something similar) - Clean rags - A good brush (one with plastic bristles to prevent scratching the rims) - Masking tape - Gloves and masks - Plasti-dip (3 cans will be enough if you paint carefully – 4 coats per rim) - Garbage bag/bin liner STEP 1: CLEANING UP THE RIMS Start cleaning the reverse side first. Apply a liberal amount of grease and grime remover and scrub thoroughly using the brush. Make sure you cover all nooks and crannies. Rinse with water. Repeat the process until the rims are spotless. Repeat the same for the front side of the rim. After washing, wipe the rim dry. Saturate a small part of a rag using grease remover and wipe the rim with it one last time. This will ensure that the remaining water is evaporated soon because most grease removers have a small percentage of alcohol. Make sure the rims are dry before proceeding to the next step. Now the rims are ready to be plasti-dipped. STEP 2: PLASTI-DIP THE INNER WALL Apply one thick coat of plasti-dip on the inner wall of the rim. Let it dry for about 15 minutes. Apply a simiar second coat. Let it dry again for 15 minutes. You can work on the other wheels while one is drying up. Remember that you only need to cover the areas that can be seen from outside when the rim is installed onto the car. This is quite different from painting the rims. At this point, you have two options: 1. Mount the wheel onto the car and continue painting 2. Complete painting and mount the wheel after all coats have been applied We had to follow a combination of option 1 and 2 because we had only two jacks to keep the car on, and we had only about 6 hours to complete the job. If you decide to follow option2, you can read ahead and ignore the stuff specific for option 1. One thing to note if you follow option 2 is to spray over the wheel nuts (2 – 3 coats) after the wheels have been mounted. STEP 3: MOUNT THE WHEEL* Install the rim carefully, making sure you don’t touch the inside of the rim which was plasti-dipped. It should have dried up by now, but still might peel off if too much pressure is applied. STEP 4: MASK THE BRAKES* Grab one of the garbage bags and cover the brakes. Use masking tape to keep the garbage bag in place if necessary. Make sure the garbage bad does not touch the rim at all. If it does, the plasti-dip will peel off when we take off the garbage bag later. Crumple the garbage bag so that it could be inserted through the spokes of the rim and thread it around the rim. Don’t forget the valve stem and dust cap. Use masking tape to cover. STEP 5: PLASTI-DIP THE FRONT SIDE Apply the first coat. If the wheel is mounted onto the car, make sure you tilt the can at all possible angles and cover as much of the surface as possible. Allow to dry for 15 – 20 minutes. After 2 coats, move the car so that the wheels turn approximately 60 degrees. This way, you will see the spots you missed during the first two coats. If you're spraying on a removed rim, just spin the rim 60 degrees between coats. While spraying, make sure you spray the inner wall as well, through the spokes because we only sprayed 2 coats onto the reverse side. After 4 coats on the front side, you would have sprayed enough plasti-dip through the spokes to give a thick layer on the inner wall as well. Continued...
  11. ferrarif50

    Help - Clear Coat Question

    Hi guys, What's the correct method to apply clear coat (Lacquer in workshops language) to a car? Do they mix it with the final coat or should it be applied separately? I'm using DeBeer products. Thanks !
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