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Found 20 results

  1. I have recently done (week back) CVT oil change from the T*y*t* L*n*a, Car is currently mileage at 40000, when I check the Invoice, they only charged for 2.5 l of CVT fluid. I wonder is it correct way of oil change? current understanding is they should full drain the gear oil from the gearbox and refill from the scratch. Need your expert opinions on this? Car is Vitz 2018
  2. Hi everyone, I feel a jerk when pressing the accelerator at low speeds in my axio 2008. This often happens when car is traveling at about 10 - 30 kmph and when i take the foot out of the accelerator and then start again to accelerate. Just when i start to accelerate car jumps a little. I also found a same thread with this problem here. http://autolanka.com/forums/topic/13402-toyota-axio-jerkingvibration-problem/ This is kind of exactly my problem too. But unfortunately i couldn't find an answer there. I took it to two mechanics and they couldn't say anything exactly and they suggests things like engine tune-up. Is there anyone who faced the same problem ? what could this be ?
  3. CG10 TO CGA3 I have a Nissan March K11 1992, Manual car. I need to convert my existing CG10 (998CC) Engine to CGA3 (1348CC) OR CG13 (1275CC) Engine with an AUTO CVT gearbox. I HAVE ALL COMPLETE CG10 CVT WIRE HARNESS AND ECU (YEAR 2000) MY ISSUE IS THAT IF I FIX A CG13 OR CGA3 ENGINE AND CVT GEARBOX WITH THAT WIRE HARNESS I MENTIONED ABOVE. WILL IT BE A PROBLEM ? OR DO I NEED TO CHANGE THE ECU AND WIRE HARNESS ? AND ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE ABOUT CG10 CGA3 CG13 ENGINES AND K11 CVT GEARBOXES. THANKS IN ADVANCE
  4. When my car is not in use for a while, I have to "warm" it up for about 20-25mins before I pull off. If I don't do that, the gears will not engage unless I press the gas pedal to about 2000-3000rpm, and then it jerks really hard before moving. While driving though, I have no problem. The problem only occurs when the car is cold. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello guys, So I noticed this issue in my Allion 260 recently. When I put the gear to R from any other gear (P or N), it takes 1-2 seconds to engage.During the delay car feels like it’s in neutral, but when it engages to R in a harsh manner, giving a jerk (like a jump). The transmission oil have been changed within 30,000km from the beginning, and now the car has only done around 12,000km after the change.What is the problem? When I went for Toyo Lan inspection, they denoted that the problem is with the engine mounts, but changed all 4 engine mounts today using genuine ones. Still the problem is there. What seems to be the problem? What should I do? Experts please give your opinions! Thanks guys p.s - After thinking more carefully I got these points about the issue. The jerk's(jump) severity is depended on the rpm level. During a cold start, the engine rpm is high, so the jerk is severe. Today, after fixing the mounts , rpm was lowered to 400-500 due to the ecu reset caused by the battery removal. So the jerk was not there at that moment, but the late engagement was there. When the engine rpm became normal after returning to home, the jerk was there. When I put the gear into R, during the delay, the engine behaves like it was put into Neutral or Park because the rpm goes a bit higher like those two gears. D is completely normal. Haven't noticed any abnormalities in D. No drop in the economy
  6. Hi Friends, I have changed CVT oil in my Toyota Premio few days back and used Toyota CVT FE oil recommended by Toyota for 1NZ-FE engines. ODO is 70k. Once it is done, there's a small jerk in low speeds 20-40kmph and feels the gear change which was never experienced before. I revisit the garage and they checked again and refilled with new oil. Had a test run and the jerk still comes in low speeds. Then they have scan the system and found no faults and had a test run again. Then the jerk is minimal and not upto a considerable level. Today morning once again jerk comes up and I visit again to garage. They have run the gear learn app in the scanner and test the CVT oil pressure. Then again jerk has gone when doing the test run. But when I'm travelling back few miles I still feels a small jerk(which didn't experienced before the oil change). Is there anyone face such issue after CVT oil change? Your valuable feedback and expertize advice really appreciated...
  7. Hi Guys, I brought this pre-owned 2012 Allion 260 about few moths back. Now it has around 57k kms on it. CVT fluid has been changed at 40k. At the speed of 10-30 km/h when rpm is around 1000 and I try to accelerate the car hesitates, waits for a bit and then leaps forward with a jerk. This situation happens everyday in city traffic. Also I have noticed that if the car is moving above 30 km/h and i take my foot off the gas pedal then there is engine braking but as soon as the speedometer hits 10 km/h the car runs free. Do any of you guys (allion, premio, axio owners) noticed this behavior? Thanks.
  8. What is the major issues of CVT against AT , some people said CVT has not long last survival, is it correct.
  9. I got an error on my Insight's display screen (in Japanese) and I think I need to change my HMMF (Honda Multi Matic Fluid) Need advice.. can I just use normal CVT oil? If not where can I get it done except for the agents? Thanks
  10. I recently purchased a Toyota Vitz 2007 (2008 body) with 67,000km. The previous owner has been using the car for the past 2 years and had not changed transmission fluid. I am wondering whether to change it or not. There is no way of checking the quality of the oil due to the lack of a dipstick in Vitz. On second thought, is the transmission oil not supposed to be changed in this CVT gearbox (I assume it is the sealed type because there is no dipstick)
  11. Hey Guys First of all I know the Honda fit has been extensively discussed multiple times on this forum but do bear with me and hear me out since this is a bit of a specific clarification. I would value your opinions and ideas regarding this. So I'm a little paranoid when it comes to buying used cars and I am more comfortable if I was to buy a trusted friends vehicle. Given the fact that what we get for about 3.5 Mil plus these days are tiny 3 pot keis I have no option but to go for a used car. I'm not overly concerned on fuel consumption or resale but more focus on Maintenance costs (i.e I don't want to do a 300,000 rs repair out of the blue) and Durability. The other aspect is of course the better performer in terms of Handling, Acceleration etc. Two of my friends are migrating and their cars are up for grabs here are the two choices : Exhibit A: Honda Fit GP1 2013 : 55,000 + KM's, first owner agent maintained , Daily driver impeccable interior, few minor day-to-day scratches and a couple of negligible dents. Cruise control etc. No paddle shift. No apparent issues mechanically (no symptoms that are common with this model.....YET!) Guy's a bit of a car guy who loves his ride I think i can get this for around 3.5 Exhibit B : Honda Fit Gp5 2013 : 45,000 KMS first owner maintained at some other place, F or L package , good interior, few scars on the bumper. Ex Daily driver now weekend tripper and used by friends wife to tug kids to school Again no apparent issues - again an honest bloke and I think despite being the newer model I can get it for between 3.6 and 3.8 Mill which i think is a bit of a deal as it seems this model usually goes for higher. Now my questions. how reliable are these two models? And If i want to avoid any costly repairs and want reliability (along with lower maintenance costs day to day) which of these should i go for.??? What is the more fun car to drive and what is more suited to our pot-hole ridden roads? Overall which would be easier to live with? Any potential headaches I should expect? I would be driving a fair bit close to 2000 KMS a month - majority City and expressway but constantly will travel out-station too - therefore do you guys think I would be better off looking at something that can handle the poor roads a bit better in the same budget like a Daihatsu Terios? I've heard it's quite rugged but I feel it's a bit bland. Thanks in advance folks.
  12. I'm planning to buy a suzuki swift japan (2006-2010) but heard that the fuel consumption is pretty low compared to other hatchbacks. Also, i heard that fuel consumption of the cvt version of the swift is better than other versions. Is there any way to identify a swift (2005-2010) with a cvt gearbox?
  13. Hi, I'm driving a 2012 Allion clocked around 65k in it's odometer. All the periodic maintenance are done though the agents. Recently I've noticed a strange KRRRR.. sound when the car is slowing down from 30km/h to 10km/h. I heard this noise when I'm driving (A/C turned off and both passenger side and driver side shutters are fully open) through a quiet lane which has walls on both sides. So I can hear the car's noises very well. When the car slows down to 10km/h this KRRRR... sound came from the left side of it and fades away within few seconds. Also I can hear this sound even in sudden pick-ups of the vehicle from 10km/h or below. I'm suspecting there is something wrong with my CVT. Have any of you had the same problem? Thanks.
  14. Hi Experts Writing this after having a in depth search on the forum regarding the above and ended up with no clue. I just brought a FIT Aria 2003 GD8 with 7 speed tiptronic and having a issue in slight vibration comes when accelerate from 0KMPH in D (Not a hard acceleration, just a normal pickup) for about second or two and goes away, also a slight vibration in D with brake pressed. Apart, having some jerks in once in a while when climbing down with engine brake in D. When I show this to agents (I wont mention as everyone knows) they suggest me to replace the Gearbox with a recon one and they quoted 90,000/- with only 3 days warranty. 1. Can somebody please tell me a good place to repair this. If possible what will be the expected cost. (Repairing will be better as you know what is in rather a closed recon one) 2. If repairing not possible, a good place to get the replacement done with a decent warranty and the cost for it. Thanks
  15. Hi All, Need some advice from the experts here regarding a possible gearbox failure in my NZT260 Toyota Allion (1NZ-FE). Couple of days back when I was on the way and fortunately closer to my home the car started to rev high up when accelerating and started experiencing a huge power loss to the wheels. I got home and I have kept the car in place till today without moving it to prevent any further damage. So basically the car engages the Drive mode and when accelerating the car barely moves (does not get past 20 km/h) but the engine revs high up. Only reverse is working without any loss of power. No noise or any cranking is heard from the tranny. Mechanics suggest that it is a common failure in CVT type transmissions in Toyotas' and it cannot be repaired, but replaced the whole transmission in full. All the maintenance have been done through Toyota Lanka and CVT transmission oil was replaced at the recommended intervals right throughout (CVT oil was changed in the last service as well). Toyota Lanka says the part is more than 900k, but recons are around 175k the least. The car has close to 186k mileage. Has anyone else running similar transmission experienced this? Is it possible to repair? If it has to be replaced, any tips on buying the part, replacement? Value all your ideas regarding this Regards.
  16. Recently I experienced a hiccup while driving our Vitz which is a 1000cc (KSP90). Then I called a known mechanic and recommend to change the CVT oil and do a calibration. I did so and it was pulling well after the oil change. But after about one week the problem has come up again and some times the gear is not engaging even though you are in "D" mode. After sending back to the agent, they are not able to rectify and possible gearbox replacement was recommended. Your experince and advise for a solution is welcome.
  17. Hi, I have recently bought a toyota allion 260 2007 car. And it's rolling back in a hill even though the gear is in D. The problem occurs when you stopping in the traffic and when you lift the foot from the break it rolls back even though it's in D. And also at idel the RPM meter drops below 1. I don't think it's because of the hill is too stiff, becz it's around Colombo and i have driven the same route again and again with my previous car (toyata vios) and i haven't experienced any thing like before. What would be the issue in my car ?
  18. Hi Honda experts Found this on Internet while finding a solution to my CVT vibration. Has anybody done this before? There are couple of way of doing the same, if someone have done, please mention the steps as well. Looks like this is the remedy for the jerk/vibration on D or R while brake pressed. Thanks
  19. This is about the CVT oil change. My neighbor uses a FIT 2007 model which is serviced by Stafford. The maintenance card given by Stafford says to change most of the oils in 10k or 15K intervals. It says to change the CVT oil every 15K I own a FIT Hybrid 2012 serviced by Sterling, Personally I am not happy about their service, but i have to stick to them if i am to keep my warranty. I have asked them about CVT change and they say to change after 30k km, and when the indicator comes up. I am not sure whether they have the correct CVT oil and also little bit worried after what they did with my Engine oil replacement. They used 5w-30m in the first service and 0W-20m in the second oil change. the fuel efficiency in much better now than after the first oil change. I have learned now that the correct oil since this is a new car is 0w-20m (Correct me if i am wrong). Here comes the questions 1 - Has any one done a CVT change in Sterling (I know of one post that says about changing the CVT in Stafford and being void for a Gear box problem on a car with Sterling warranty) 2 - Do i have to change the CVT oil every 15k km, because there are my friends who have not done so but do not have any problem. And also i have learned that Stafford has its own agenda with sales.
  20. Hello, In conventional automatic cars, when you accelerate & release the gas paddle, car has some momentum & it flows. But in CVT, car tends to slow & stop. How hard it to get used to the GAS paddle balance for CVT?
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