Izza

Congratzz mate! That looks an awesomely clean car. Are the tail lights an aftermarket addition? Seems different to the one I remember from FD1. Please post some interior pictures as well. I only have driven FD1 autos, I'm sure the manual would be even better. Enjoy your new ride!

Now where are the photos that we all are eager to see? 😁

Congratz! She looks stunning, great color as well. Am also a huge Mazda fan Headlight modification looks cool as well (Hope it has been done properly). Waiting to see some detailed pics in a new thread!

@chan5 if you are still in the hunt, saw that there are couple of Mazda2 cars around Colombo for sale in ik***.lk site - 2016, imported by agent as per the ads.

Hi @chan5, @iRage won't a properly maintained Mazda 2 be another viable option for these requirements?

For this specific engine (1KR-FE), I think there weren't a lot of gains. Hence, for this specific case only, I would say its not worth it. But depends on what you expect really. But if it was a larger engine / an engine with forced induction IMO it could have been different.

Reconditioned TB = 15k Aluminum spacer = 2k for material and lathe work Extra long bolts and nuts = 0.5k Gasket paper = 0.5k Other stuff I already had, including a cone air filter (unbranded), silicone couplers etc. I did not go for a proper CAI, but assembled one from PVC pipes and a few bends. Idea was to test it out first.

Just putting down what I think.. Spacers would work in engines with carburetors.. it could improve the air fuel mixture uniformity since fuel and air is mixed inside the carb and then you get this swirling/circulating effect right after by this spacer.. but with EFI, even if the air swirls just after the TB, not sure how it can have the same effect.. Again, this is just what I think.

Hi, This is a short summary of what I did. Got the throttle body from a 1300cc engine (1NR). This has a significant size different compared to the Vitz 1KR original one. However the bolts positions which fixes the TB to the intake manifold are the same. Swapped out the control boards from the original one to the new one. The manifold side opening is around 35mm while the new TB opening is about 45 mm. Therefore, made a small adaptor plate from a block of aluminium to have a gradual reduction from 45mm to 35 mm. Thickness of the aluminium block was 3/4 inches. Its similar to a throttle body spacer like below, but not neat as this of course Got some help from a local lathe shop. Also cut out a small gasket from gasket paper to fit between the adaptor plate and new TB. The installation order from the side of the intake manifold was Manifold with original gasket | throttle body plate | custom gasket | new throttle body Afterwards got some help to fabricate a small CAI (pipe diameter: 3") and used an unbranded cone air filter with a dust cover, and was good to go Improvements that I noted: Induction sound change due to the CAI. Had a bit of a growl in it now. For me was not really important tho - I know many of you petrol heads will disagree Increased pulling power in the mid to high RPM range. After about 4000 RPM it has a improvement in the pulling power, but not anything ground breaking - can't expect anything of that sort with this 1KR engine. Downside: Decrease in torque/pulling power in the lower RPMs. I think this could be because of the intake air velocity being low due to the wider TB and air intake. So yeah, this was my experience after doing it. Since this mod kind of reduced my low end torque, I have reverted back to the original setup. However, I now use a drop in K&N air filter with some custom air tubing routed to an opening in the front grill of the car where it can suck in colder air specially when the car is moving. The original air tubing sucks in air just from the left side of the engine, which IMO is not the best place for a cold air feed.

So, I actually went ahead and tried this out. Did it out of curiosity mostly, to find out what happens. And yeah it does change the throttle response characteristics, but could not drive around a lot after the mod. Also, I'm still to pair this mod with a better air intake. Will post the results once I do.

Thanks. I checked the some of the popular throttle controllers like P***l C*******r, but yeah those are awfully expensive. No idea about the price of the Toms. Guess it should be pretty expensive too. There are few people who seem to have done this. Therefore I thought the throttle body swap should be workable.

Thanks @ajmand @iRage. I actually thought the ECU will compensate with adding more fuel. Isn't that the case ? And yes, can get a ECU tune too. I'm looking for quicker throttle response yeah. wouldn't the ECU add more fuel when it detects the larger amount of air via the MAF sensor? Thanks, did not know about throttle response controllers. Will certainly check them out. And I assume I can anyway do a tune after fitting a throttle response controller (If I'm able to get one down amidst this situation)?

Hi folks, I own a Vitz 1.0L (1KR-FE) car. I'm looking for options to increase the initial throttle response - and thought whether swapping the throttle body for a larger one, possibly the throttle body from either Vitz 1NR-FE (1.3L) or 1NZ-FE (1.5L) - would make any difference. The stock throttle body inlet diameter is 38 mm as I found. When swapping, I suppose matching the larger throttle body outlet to the intake manifold would need to be sorted, but I guess a matching plate (starting from the new throttle body diameter to gradually reduce to fit to the intake manifold) would do the trick. In addition, will be coupling this with a CAI. My questions are: Anyone who has attempted the same here, who can share their experience? Could this give a improvement in the throttle response? Or is it not worth it? Thank you.

I went ahead and switched to 175/65 R15 and have no complaints so far. No noticeable reduction in acceleration and the car seems much more planted and stable.

Nice! Lol same concern here mate. Thankfully the Vitz is happy with 92 octane. Is it in the same stretch of highway you get this noise? I experienced a similar noise from tires few times in the highway (in a different vehicle though). Checked the tires and then noticed that in the particular stretch of highway, the carpeting has been removed and roughened for re-carpeting, hence the noise. The noise went away once the re-carpeting was done.

Wow, no fuel economy & pulling power change after going for 7JJ with 195 tires? Bdw, just for my knowledge what is the average fuel econ figure you see? Well I think before doing a mod its better to know the consequences. And yes, I too am thinking for fitting a used set of tires to get an idea first 👍

Could not find them locally. Sourced these from e**y for a few dollars. You just need to measure the vehicle hub bore and the wheel center bore correctly. However, was surprised to see that most of the alloy wheel places/modifications garages haven't even heard of hub centric rings. I thought there would be plenty around, seeing the amount of aftermarket alloy wheels on sale everywhere 🤔

Thanks @iRage. As always, your inputs are much appreciated. I will go ahead with the upsizing and see what happens. If anything is compromised too drastically, specially the acceleration, will think of reverting to 14" again.

Yeah, wheel arch side is ok. I checked that. That was on my mind actually, but unfortunately I can't do that straightaway. What I can do is the alloys + tires, and then maybe front upper and back lower strut bars to start with. One clarification, even if I go for a proper suspension setup with coilovers/lowering springs, I assume the slowness in acceleration would still be there? Since the original cause of that is the added weight and higher rolling resistance.

Thanks @iRage for the detailed explanation, and pardon my ignorance. Yes, it makes sense. My current setup is not actually the stock steelies, they are some Chinese alloys 14" 6J, with +40 offset. And it carries the stock size tires 165/70 R14. The setup weights at around 12 kg (6kg for the wheel and 6kg for the inflated tyre) I measured the contact patch and with 32 PSI it seems it is slightly less than 6". With this setup, the acceleration/peppiness is ok-ish. And I have driven the same Vitz 1.0L cars with the stock steel wheel setup, and did not note a noticeable drop in acceleration because I have 6" wheels. With the new setup alloys are 15" 6.5J with +35 offset. I came across some wheels with 15" 6J but they were actually heavier than the 15" 6.5J ones I have now. So, I assume it will for sure have a hit on fuel economy + reduction in the peppiness. Plus, the increased width might not be always increase stability. Hmm. Wonder if I should just live with the current setup then.

@amsandun How is your experience after upgrading to 175? Thinking of doing the same for a Vitz 1.0L myself.

Thanks @iRage. A proper suspension upgrade was on my mind, but unfortunately need to give priority to some other personal commitments. Reasons for 15 inch wheels - better visual effect + the increases stability with 175mm wide tires. Vitz actually has quite a reasonable sized wheel well, but the 14 inch stock tires look tiny in those. Lower profile with 14 would make it look even more smaller IMO. However, the stock width is 165mm (6.5"), not 5.5", and increasing to 175mm means the width would become 6.9". I did not think that would make a huge difference. And I don't think rubbing will be an issue here.

Hi Folks, I own a Vitz 2017 1000cc (yeah the boring KSP130). Wanted to upsize the wheels from stock 14 to 15. Hence, went searching for a good alloy wheel set, and managed to find a set (~ 5kg each). However, was hit by a different challenge. The recommended wheel size to upsize is 175/60 R15, which has a 0.9% increase in the overall diameter. Unfortunately this size is quite rare in SL, and I was not able to find a set till now. However, 175/65 R15 is widely available in many brands. But, the change of the overall diameter is 3.9% which exceeds the recommended tolerance level which is 3% as I read. I know upsizing will effect fuel figures, that I do not mind a lot. Also the speedometer and odo meter reading glitches are not huge concerns for me. However, being a Vitz 1.0L the acceleration is pretty average now as well, therefore putting additional weight and slowing down the acceleration further is something I would like to avoid if possible. Couple of questions: 1. If I manage to find a lightweight set of 175/65 R15 tires with low rolling resistance, where the combination of the wheel + tyre weight is approximately similar to what is there currently, would it stil feel slow in acceleration? Anyone who has prior experience? 2. Apart from the fuel consumption, speedometer + odometer readings, any other potential issues which can arise from going above 3% of original diameter? Thank you.

Yeah, I did. They have a shipment due around December. This is actually for a tire up-sizing purpose.. Going from 14" to 15". Can wait till this size is available, not urgent.. Hence did not think of going for an alternate size.

Thanks @kirala2. Saw the same, but they are also out of stock.