AVANTE

Check if knock sensor is working properly? Did you mix anything with the petrol?

Can get new rubber for the mount in Panchikawatta. Or go to any jap spare parts store, allion parts shouldn't be hard to find.

Correct. It's underpowered, and burns a bit more fuel. But due to the unstressed nature, it has less wear and tear, and lasts longer than the other Peugeot petrol engines. Strong and simple unit.

@matroska any ideas?

At the end of 1999, Peugeot and Citroen started using a protocol named COM2000 on their cars, which is actually a VAN protocol, a precursor to CAN. VAN stands for Vehicle Area Network, not advanced as CAN. Unlike VAN, CAN is not a vehicle specific protocol, it's almost used everywhere where different electronics must communicate each other. (taken from quora) MUX - is basically short for multiplexer. It's regarding the wiring. There are 2 types, Semi-MUX and Full-MUX. Full mux was standard after 2002 I believe. Its a 20+ year old European car. So there will be work. But it's not as bad as you think. In fact if you buy the right car, it could be as easy to maintain as a jap car of that age too. Take a look at ebay, ikm4n and a few Peugeot vendors around panchikawatte and you'll see parts prices are very reasonable for OEM compared to Jap oems too. But ofc, buy a bad car, and the bills will rack up. Peugeots OEM parts brands are Valeo, Magnetti Marelli, Bosch & Mann. All Premium European parts manufacturers.

2021: everything has gone to shit and so have most of the Peugeots. Great cars, way ahead of their time. Rear wheel steering, rain sensing wipers, stability control, velvet seat belt covers and glove box.. And the executive version had variable steering, electric, heated seats and cruise control too. Just like what @peugeot407 said Find a good one, normal jap service centers can't scan or work on these cars. They can only wash them or inflate the tyres. If you are from WP, lots of pug specialists and parts suppliers are there. Life's easy. The budget range you mentioned will get you an L6A engined car. Very strong engine, there's a guy in negombo I think who was featured in a magazine once for running 500,000km on the original engine. But their fuel economy is low compared to the 6FZ 1.8 and LFY 1.8 and parts availability are a bit less. All the decent ones are above 1.9 - 2 mil now. The perfect 406 is: 1999-2001, Non-com 2000/semi mux, 2L HDi 90 diesel with 5spd manual, in rare sherwood green with sunroof and beige leather interior. But those are very rare now and a bit pricey too if someone does sell. Go for a 2L petrol one if possible, it doesn't necessarily have to be a fully loaded executive. You can find GTX and GLX trims too. They have better economy is uphill places too due to the unstressed engine. Do PM if you need any help regarding the matter! Also people will recommend you that MN Automobile in malabe is good. He is skilled, but he is a crook so beware, He will steal/swap parts.

Yes, you should stand out from the crowd. I'd say if you are confident, get into the Nissan hobby. Even I'd like me a nice SU14. Saw a beautiful dark green few months ago, never saw another one with that color. Pulsar are good too and Primeras with SR20s have some demand as well.

Isn't this how the majority of sales owners start out in life? Buying a 90s car, making it shine, and selling (albeit.. With some shady tape repairs and meter rolling). Its a good idea. Make sure you buy for the right price, manage repair costs reasonably, not cutting corners in vital areas (things like fibering an AC vent properly instead of buying a set is fine). Know your cars, models and their common issues and the target market. Better if you could even profess in one specific make/model and be a pro at it. There are such people who deal parts and cars for one specific generation of the model even (for example, E36 Gen of the BMW 3 series) Best way for you to be profitable, is to know your mechanics well and have a good rapport. The repair/paint costs will bite away at your potential profits. That's why most sales have their own workshops. Also yes. There are always people who will pay the premium as long as they aren't sales buyyo or toyyos (the type to criticize the minor scratch under the bumper and color choice of a 40 year old car and its affect on resale so that they can post an ad on the quicksite instantly with a 25% profit margin). It won't take so long for an enthusiast of a specific model to look around at a few beat up specimen and think "ayyo, isn't there any hope of finding a good example?" (being there, done that). When I was looking out for cars and motorbikes of that vintage, I always come across douchebags who cant send proper pictures, don't answer calls, don't know jack about the car, can't send a video of its condition, talk with bulto in their mouth, legit boomers. This sucks when you like the vehicle and have no choice but to make a several 100km journey to inspect it.. Only to find out it has no battery, or that it's a completely difference vehicle from the picture, or that the engine is so undercompressed it can't move the vehicle. Your target market should be enthusiasts and you should make efforts for an effortless transaction to happen. After all, no sales, no profits.

One top gel mount, 3 rubber mounts (2 top, 1 bottom near axle) . Didn't need to replace assembly as Peugeot retailers sell the rubber bush alone for purchase. But for the top mount only I did buy with assembly as per my trusted mechanics advice. Around 16k for 3 mounts, euro brands. If I went with agents, must be near 35k with the transmission mount included. The sucky part was the bottom mount which almost never wears out unless the top mounts were severely damaged. Took 1 whole day to replace, driveshaft out job. BTW, why camry mounts so expensive? Like damn. 100k is unreasonable! Are they all gel mounts or something?

Is that the place run by Lalana?

Ambo, I drove 220km in 2 days to with that noise. But didn't really feel the inertia until it was too late. Cringey and scary. Immediately got it sorted but the damage to the other mounts was already done.

Ah yes probably that. Had that last year, scariest sound ever, becomes worse gradually.

Most probably the control arm bush or CV joint.

Some solid advice from the people above really. Best off keeping your money safe for now. I'll just add my two cents though and this reciprocated with what @iRagesaid near the end. Small houses do get rented quick, especially in peaceful areas. Just like how there are tons of outstation people trying to migrate to Colombo, there are also people trying to get away from crowded towns. So far this month alone, we've had nearly 3 families asking to rent out our 2nd floor and one guy wanted the 3rd floor for business purposes, to open up a small scale garments factory of sorts. Even one of our neighbour's rented out their small home to another party and moved to their ancestral home. So you can see a pattern here. Especially near big schools, there are tons of rooms being rented out to school kids who come from far away places to such schools. Also regarding the purchase of land, which we do as a side hustle, I'll add another word of advice. Don't put all the eggs in one basket. Buy small pieces of land in different places especially places that are in demand or soon will be. Ever since the Easter bombing incident and now corona, people are extra careful with their money. Not many have the power to purchase big land anymore, unless it's dirt cheap, in a high demand city or a farming piece. People are either renovating, moving to apartments, migrating or just buying a house to avoid the hassles of dealing with the baas fellows. I'm having a hard time trying to push off a 20 perches and 27 perches spot near mawanella town. I've divided them into smaller pieces and hope it will get sold within this year. Meanwhile one of our smaller pieces, 4 perches, 1.5km away from the town has been having way too many inquiries recently. Also, when it comes to really really small pieces of land in places where the demograph is of a lower income bracket, make sure not to keep insane profit margins as that would be immoral and preying towards such unfortunate families who really need a place to settle in that specific area as soon as possible. Good luck.

Hi, Took a stroll through panchikawatte and the usual spots? If your dashboard just has cracks on it, you can fiber it from within and paint/re-up holster it. Saves you the cost of a new dash.

Haha Same! About Micro though.. I was told the guy who founded micro used to work in CarMart. Yeah my bad, the 60s. And yeah, not a big fan.

They are trying to be an upmarket brand now. Hence the logo. Its one of their old logos reinvented. It appeared on the 70s Peugeots (404 especially). And then this version first appeared on the E-legend concept back in 2016. Personally, I like the old roaring lions better.

Hi guys! I need to top up my PS fluid by a few mililitres. However, I have no clue what brand of PS fluid the previous owner used. But Im sure it's most probably Dexron 2 grade fluid (as recommended by the manual). Now if I mix a different brand dexron 2 fluid with this, will there be an issue? Eg:- Mixing Castrol brand D2 with STR brand D2 Its for the Peugeot 406, equipped with a mechanical power steering pump.

Verossa is pretty much a mark II underneath, same drive train. Nissan Primera is a nice car indeed. SR20 (2000cc 4 cyl), 5spd, sunroof is what you want. Else there's the SR18 (1800cc) which is slower but slightly more efficient. Parts can be somewhat same or a bit more costly than other jap models depending on where you look. Also it's shorter (4.4m)

Quick Google search says tis the only Chinese car at the time to score a 4 star NCAP safety rating. And the interior on the newer ones are gorgeous. I'm actually starting to like this thing. Only thing that would get in the way would be badge snobbery.

Hi and welcome to the forum. By not starting.. Do you mean engine doesn't crank? Engine cranks but doesn't start? If the engine is smooth when driving, then it's most probably an electrical issue you're dealing with. My gut says it's a charging problem.

Here's the truth about those cars. 320 is a 2L turbo-diesel, while 318i in a 1.8L petrol (non-turbo). Both 4 cylinder models. There are 2 versions of the E46. The pre face-lift (1998-2001) and face lift (2001 - 2004). Pre-face lift petrol cars had the M-series engines (don't confuse with M3 or Msport). M43 for 318i, while Later cars had the N series engines (N42 and N46 for 318i/320i). All 320d diesels had the M47 engine, which came in later E90 models also. They all have their own common issues and are not the cheapest cars to fix. It depends on you whether you want to put down your savings on a car but my personal advice? My general rule is, to only spend about 20% of your net worth on a car. If you spend on cars your pocket can't cash, you'll be in trouble and you won't enjoy the experience. You can only care about your dream car, or money. Not both, as one has to go for the other to be saved. I'd say, you could start life with an E36! These days they are a bit overpriced thanks to Corona but if you are lucky and negotiate properly.. You can find an M43 engined car (face-lift after 1994)for under 2.3 mil. It's easier to fix, parts are plenty and cheaper, less tech to go wrong.. Enough gadgets to compete with modern jap cars, and very nice engine and decent looks. Beautiful handling also. Your best compromise between performance and economy is to go for a 318i. They are the most common too. Lots of info available on the internet. Avoid the 316i (1600cc) and it is slower than a toyota aqua and boring and early. M40 engined cars (1991-1993) are tough and well reputated but nowadays due to their unrefined nature and parts shortage, they are not as sought after as M43 motors. If possible, try to find a brand new agent Imported one as they came with original climate control standard from factory. Check for rust as some of them have rust issues and most of them are fixed at this point. Under sills and wheel arches mostly, but also check under rear subframe for the sake of it (mostly 6 cylinder models and M3s only had this issues) Check for suspension noises, check chassis for accident damage, check interior roof liner and door cards for sagging. On M43 cars, check for issues with cooling system (radiator, housing, Coolant reservoir, hoses, thermostat, and see if water pump was changed recently, if not it has to be changed before 100k kms with an aftermarkrt metal impeller water pump as the factory plastic could break and pieces could scatter off everywhere, a dumb flaw by BMW engineers on the M series engines). Check for oil leaks around filter, tappet, head, oil pan, gearbox plug, flywheel housing (engine and gearbox meeting point). These cars came with a timing chain, not a timing belt, so they should last a long time, but check to see if there's any rattling sound coming from that area just incase. See if any weird or unwanted sound is coming from the rear when driving or accelerating (differential bearing sound). Ask for service records.. Always! Even if you have to spend 100k more than another car just for genuine service records, it's fine! Take it to a reputable place like car checks to do a through checkup. Book an appointment with them before doing so. But if all this seems too much for you, just buy a normal Japanese car, do some basic repairs, pump petrol and drive for a while and get some experience and save some cash for a BMW later on in life.

Welcome to the forums. You have to have a rough idea of what owning a BMW is like. It won't be like the movies, you have to learn about the model you're going for and the specific trim levels, common issues, model years, average market value, average parts prices and so on before indulging in the purchase. Not every mechanic can touch these cars, best be somewhere near Colombo. The agents will rip you off so taking it to Milroy or Ultimate Motor Works is the way to go. What kind of model do you have in mind? For a budget of 3-4mil the most recent Beemer you can find, in today's Corona influenced market, are limited to the E46 3-series and E39 5-series (late 90s - early 2000s) Both are totally different cars, one is a compact executive saloon while the other is a large luxury saloon. Take your time and do your research before buying. Search the forum for past discussions about them. This is a 20 year old car, that too European. You will come across various niggles that will need attention. Luckily, there is way too much information on the internet about every quirk and every solution as these cars were sold in every continent and almost every country in the world. If you want to learn more about BMWs, join the FB lanka owners clubs, read through bimmerforum, bimmerfest, bimmerpost, bimmershops, E46fanatics, eeuroparts, BMWcca forum, reddit r/BMW, M5 board and some other sites too. Note: If you feel you don't have a broad knowledge about DIY, mechanical knowledge or don't want to spend relatively too much for maintenance, better to buy something less complex and get some first hand experience as this will be your first car. It's not impossible to own a BMW, just not as easy as owning a jap car. But It's a rewarding experience and worth it.