Dee Jay

If you get the scan done from a reputable place that has good technical knowledge on Hondas, the chances are that they did a proper diagnosis. If the diagnosis is correct then they would suggest you the remedy needed which in this case is a replacement of parts. So, once the remedying is performed and the error codes are cleared from the system, the vehicle wouldn't throw any error codes again if the part replacement was successful. If not it would throw the codes again, which shows the issue isn't fixed. So, get the diagnosis done at a proper place with Honda know how and proper scan tools like the HDS (preferably at the agent).. If the remedy involves part replacement get it done from a place that offers a reputable warranty.

True enough.. Local Honda agent would tend to normalize things saying its a common issue with the model and so on and so forth which would dissatisfy people who are in love with their cars (like our fellow Auto Lankans I'm sure ) However, they don't usually try to rip you off saying this should be replaced, do this every service etc. based on my 8th year of experience with them.. (eg: while other places would recommend changing DCT clutch oil every service (5,000 km), Stafford recommends it every 10,000 or 20,000 km).. They usually do the job right and they are the only people I let my Honda to be worked on while the only other place being the place in Yakkala which @matroska mentioned above. @misnad I've had similar experience with Stafford, where I've gone to them multiple times to rectify a small sound coming from the front suspension which they never figured out upon inspecting on the lift and going for a test drive.. However, when attending to a steering rack replacement with them, they discovered a couple of issues: 1) Faulty ball joint 2) Worn out wheel bearing I got those fixed at the same time, which eliminated the sound I was complaining about along with a wheel spinning issue I encountered while parking my car in the garage while trying to climb the incline leading to it.. So I'd say get a second opinion maybe from elsewhere, which is trustworthy to you and who knows how to work on Hondas, cause other places would just screw your car..

Out of the two the comfortable (with available options included in the comparison) and the one with less maintenance cost would be the FIT GP1. However, the Aqua would be a little bit more fuel efficient. The FIT GP1 battery is more reliable than the Aqua's however, be sure to check the Usable Capacity of the hybrid battery before going for it. Anything below 20% means you would need to attend to the battery. Anyway since you are going to buy a car that has been used over a decade, you will need to spend some money on maintenance to get the car into a sound mechanical shape be it the FIT or Aqua. The amount you would need to spend and the things you would need to attend to would depend on how well the previous owner took care of it. So get both of them inspected and if possible get a car with an honest maintenance history. You can choose based on your preference which model to get and look for a good condition specimen as well.

What you see in this picture is how the car's hybrid system is operating.. At one point you would see the wheels being powered by the battery (that is when you are in the EV mode) and like you said when the regenerating brakes are working it would show the battery being charged by the wheels.. You would also see the wheels being powered by both the engine and battery when the car is being propelled by both the battery power and engine power. Like wise there'll be certain other instances as well like you mentioned where the engine would be charging the battery etc. All these are normal for a hybrid vehicle. This is not an indication of any issue with the vehicle but an infographic attached to the car's display. You might have accidentally switched the view of the display via a press of a button causing the infographic to switch to this view.. You can switch back to the previous infographic if you are not a fan of this view

Nice to see you keep the GRY journey well documented Don't you think the Corolla Touring Hybrid deserves a blog entry of its own as well

Well @iRage I think you have misunderstood my whole point. The point I was trying to strike simply was, if the OP is looking at a FD series Civic as a daily driver, the FD3 would be the best. I have addressed the point of fuel efficiency and power since @fiat fan had mentioned that the battery is weak and the fuel savings would be off set with the repair bill A liter of petrol 92 is now LKR 350 odd and with the imposition of VAT next year it is likely to pass the LKR 400 mark and a full tank would cost around 16,000 LKR which is a significant amount given the fact it used to be around 5,000 LKR a couple of years back. Being a current owner and a member of the owners group related to the model I'm aware of the repairs other fellow owners come across with the FD series (inclusive of FD1 and FD4), so all those things were considered when providing the above feedback. And besides, I have also mentioned in my original post if the OP is decided on going for a FD1, which grade would be the best to go far. I have also mentioned, if performance is what he is looking for to go for the FD2R. So, you calling me extremely biased with my advice is something I think is unjust, I must strictly mention And in a Sri Lankan context, the FD3 and other IMA hybrids have faired better as a hybrid vehicle that's what I wanted to say be it due to how the owners have taken care of/ used or due to the differences in architecture of the systems. I am not saying its trouble free, but relatively it is less of a hassle and closer to a non-hybrid counter part since it is an assist system to the engine. Yes, I mentioned that. From 2009 onwards, that issue was resolved in the FD3 with a new battery cell type and software updates which were covered under warranty in other countries (the premature failure of FD3 hybrid batteries is a well known scenario globally). This cell type is used in the newer GP series, Insight etc. However, in Sri Lanka this wasn't covered under warranty as these were grey imports However, I remember @ramishkad mentioning in the forum how he got a replacement battery under warranty during his ownership.

Yes, the original hybrid batteries on the Civic hybrid were not reliable.. But, then again 16 years from YOM these cars don't contain the original hybrid batteries anymore. So, what is done in Sri Lanka is to take the cells from GP1, GP2, Insight, CRZ and build the battery pack.. Those cells doesn't have the problems you mentioned. With my ownership experience I can attest to that. Yes, when the battery is weak, there's a significant drop in performance of Honda IMA hybrids and that has lead to the conclusions in the Sri Lankan market that the FD3 is sluggish, can't climb a hill etc. This was mainly due to the fact that many early cars had the battery issue you mentioned and the owners not going for a replacement battery leading to the power issues and the general conception in the public. So, when that issue is sorted it cannot be considered as having a weak battery. Well, you can speculate it that way. However, under Sri Lankan conditions the average life span of a new Toyota NiMh hybrid battery pack is maximum 5 years. You see 2017/2018 Aqua/Axio getting their battery changed now which is not the case for the Honda hybrids. And add to that the brake system issues. When it comes to the FD3 it is 16 years old and now is the time the brake accumulators are starting to give up.. So, there's a clear difference in the reliability with HSD and the IMA systems primarily maybe due to the design and excessive use of the battery by HSD. Well, it contains all the relevant details here isn't it. They are not comparing it with the other brands ne.. All I can say is, this car even after 16 years running can achieve closer to the advertised figures in certain conditions (and not only me many owners do achieve that constantly). And besides I know the JC08 cycle is a bit over enthusiastic, that's why I have provided figures you can expect in real world in Sri Lankan conditions I haven't hit 25kmpl in my ownership and the best I have had is 23+. So, it is closer to what is advertised and 25 is advertised for the cars with those ugly aero dynamic wheels which I don't have in mine

Well, in Sri Lanka like @matroska mentioned nothing is worth the price tag at the moment. However, in the current context if it is worth or not boils down to the fact how much of a value you perceive from that thing. So, it's solely up to you to decide. But, of course when considering the other options going for the same budget it is much more car for the money you spent. Since, I have been owning a FD3 for 8 years now I'll say that the FD3 is the best all rounder and the best daily driver out of the FD series Civics in Sri Lanka. If you are looking for a performance car then it's the FD2R (Type R) you should go for. I don't know if there are any FD2 (2000CC JDM highest spec) cars in Sri Lanka, though we have a few FD2R examples available; but they are very very expensive. Since, @fiat fan as a former owner of a FD1S has summarized the FD series above I'll just correct the FD3 part.. Hybrid battery is not weak if the condition is good. I have been running on the same hybrid battery since 2016 without issues and the FD3 is far more reliable than the Toyota hybrid models that are even newer than the FD3. You have ample pickup and sufficient power in the car and it is way better than the Toyota 1500cc offerings and carries the same handling of the FD1 and FD4 and even better sometimes with the lower ground clearance and due to having the battery behind the rear seats. When it comes to efficiency the FD3 is the best giving around 9-14kmpl in heavy traffic 15-18kmpl in moderate traffic and 18-23kmpl + in outstation or low traffic runs. The FD3 also is the most equipped model out of the cars you get here with JDM variants having smart keyless entry, Adaptive Cruise Control, City Brake System, Alcantara interior, HID headlights, multi-function steering, VSA etc. Below is an extract from Honda themselves mentioning the driving dynamics and the fuel efficiency of the FD3.. If you are hoping to get a FD1, try to get the FD1 JDM GL grade. It only lacks the sun-roof of the FD1S (Stafford imported highest grade), but it has EPS (electronic power steering) like the FD3 and this is more economical and reliable than the FD1S which is prone to power steering leaks due to having a HPS and lacks some other bells and whistles like VSA.

Then why don't you try a Civic sedan/ hatchback? At your budget you should be able to find one with low mileage and if you're lucky even a 1.5T Civic that pops up occasionally.. Then there's the Honda Insight hybrid as well which also a good option and is a rare sight in Sri Lanka. Well, again this Q2 is at the entry point to the world of Audis.. So, what you get is only a jacked up Audi A1 (as the Vezel and Fit) and it also sports a DCT.. However, any vehicle can have issues and having issues doesn't mean anything is bad or it's not the end of the world.. I'd say you make a decision on what you want from a vehicle and then act upon it cause a Premio and a Q2 are two completely different vehicle categories catering to different market demographics..

The need for the gear box replacement could be due to simply the current/ previous owners not treating the Mazda 3 properly by changing the transmission fluid on time and the steering rack replacement could be due to them driving on bad roads regularly without any concern towards the car's suspension system. Either way, you might need to attend to both these repairs even if you buy a Premio.. It all boils down to the fact how well the previous owner took care of the car when it comes to buying any used car.. So, it's up to you to do a proper inspection and get the car in best condition.

Anything and everything in SL is overpriced at the moment. Originally these CRVs landed in SL back in the day when they were brand new for around 10-11 million.. So, considering the current market prices it is in line with every other vehicle model on sale..

Yes, that's the best way.. if it's a Hybrid RS Vezel, AWD wasn't offered by Honda.. Maybe the previous owner has simply pasted a RS badge on it if its having AWD after all.

This is actually done for early model Vezels here (2014 Z grades). The bumpers and wheel arches are repainted in gloss black, addingthe new fog lights installed etc. So anything is possible in Sri Lanka..

Did you follow the above setup and connect both devices individually? And how about both your phones? Are they having the same name/ model etc.?

The 1L turbo Civic sedans are not base trim.. They also have almost identical specs to the hatchback grades of the 1L model, with only little differences (when it comes to adaptive dampers- sedans don't come with it etc.) The sedan NA 1.6 L was imported by the agents and it carries a little less options than the UK 1L sedans.. There were a few 1.5L turbo sedans imported by the agents as well as Aussie imported ones in SL but they are rare to come by.. There are even a handful of 1.5L turbo hatchback Civics in SL as well.. If you have the budget go for a 1.5L turbo Civic, I can guarantee that you won't be disappointed.. with 174hp in sedan form and 185hp in the hatchback form it is a joy to drive and handles like a Euro with good options.. As @iRage mentioned, the Crown Hybrid from 2007-2010 with all its options and hybrid powertrain is also a joy to drive and full of luxury not sure if it fits in the OPs budget though.. The Accord hybrid is very reliable and powerful and packs a lot of options as well.. This powertrain is more refined than the DCT Honda hybrids and the latest Honda e:HEV hybrid powertrain is more or less the same to what is there in the Accord hybrid since 2013.. There were a few available below the OPs budget ceiling however, they were high mileage ones..

Yes, as @matroska mentioned the FD4 isn't going to give Toyota sedan level fuel efficiency. If you want performance I'd say go for the FD1 which is also having similar efficiency figures to the FD4.. Over 3000 RPM the FD1 is a beast of a car. When it comes to the FD4, it is the least equipped FD version since it was an agent imported model made for countries in the Asian region. The agent imported FD1S is better equipped. FD1 JDM models and FD3 JDM and UK models are the most option packed FD models available in Sri Lanka. If you are looking for a FD4 check on the maintenance history of the car and the condition of the car as with any other car and there would be many info available within the forums it self regarding the FD series Civic.

So the FK6 don't need 95 octane petrol to be pumped?

The technology pack is not a grade but a few add-ons offered on the EX trim.. so it is not included as a specific trim level. What you see the same is the engine specs of the FK6 and FK7 trim levels respectively. Even though the engine specs are the same the options are different in the cars depending on the trim level. The fully loaded EX grade of the FK6 is the heaviest out of the FK6 trim levels hence the highest consumption and slowest to 62mph..

It's achievable since Honda themselves have advertised it in the UK 1000cc FK6 brochure that the their 3 cylinder FK6 is capable of a combined mpg of 56.5 for the CVT EX and the SR grades (see below screenshot) which are the most common FK6 models available in Sri Lanka. So, it all boils down to your driving style mostly and the condition of the car as well as the routes taken and the traffic level would definitely play a part. If you understand the car it is possible to achieve that and there are many owners who have driven according to the strengths of the car and achieved the stated consumption levels. However, there's no guarantee that every owner would be able to achieve these figures.

Given your list and requirements, the only thing that would be able to match your fuel consumption need would be the Honda Insight and the Honda Civic Hybrid (FD3). If you get a well maintained one these hybrids are actually very reliable and would be value for money along with a good set of options and driving dynamics. You could also consider vehicles like the Honda Fit GP1 and Toyota Aqua if fuel consumption is more prioritized than the sedan form factor. Toyota 141 Corolla and the petrol Civic FDs are not very economical and are thirstier than your consumption demands. However, both are reliable sedans with the FD Civic being sportier and option packed than the Corolla. You can also check Mazda 3 and Mitsubishi Lancer EX and CS; however they would not return you with 15kmpl or more in daily CMB commute.

@C_J What @RWD has mentioned about city fuel consumption is true and then again it depends on the area you would be driving the car and the level of traffic at that time. The 1000cc turbo is a car that can give you good fuel consumption depending on the way you drive and the traffic congestion around. If driven carefully at a time of low traffic it can give you an economy of about 12kmpl as well. In long distance driving (where the car feels at home) it would give you more than 15kmpl+ and highways with cruise control is where this 1000cc turbo shines with figures north of 20kmpl with cruise control.. Do keep in mind that this car requires 95 octane..

Not every hatchback has adaptive dampers. Only EX grade and Tech pack grade has adaptive dampers and it is common for both hatchback and sedan models. .Depending on the YoM there would be slight changes to the infotainment system and the steering multi-function controls as well as some improvements Honda added overall to the standard options and mechanical components with the feedback they get and continuous improvements. Don't know if the mid cycle refresh of the model took place in 2019 or 2020. So most of the above mentioned tweaks would be visible after the face-lift.

@matroska is the guy to ask since he's an owner and there's a dedicated thread for the vehicle in auntolanka as well, which you can search and read as well..

Thank you for the review

How about the wet and dry grip and cornering performance at high speeds as well as the braking distance of the Hankook tires?