TG10E24

From above 2, I would go with Nankang. My previous experience with CE#T is not good. They were too hard and casued many suspension issues. Finally I had to keep the tyre pressure below 28psi and finally I had to throw them away due to broken belts

Hydraulic steering racks with oil leaks are possible to get fixed by replacing oil seals.

Thanks so much for the valuable information. Thanks so much

Hi Autolankans 😀, I'm happy to get to know about Toyota Harrier 300g YOM 2003 (180000Km). Hope some one can help me 1. What are the common issues of this vehicle? 2. How is the maintainance cost? 3. How easy to find spare parts? is it like other Toyotas? 4. What is the best market price these days? 5. What is the fuel consumption of this? (Previous owner syays that it does 15Km/L 😁) Thanks in advance

Octane 93? IOC Xtra premium is 92 octane with some detergents etc.. as I know

Honda - Solution for chattering noise under the dash. If you are hearing some kind of a chattering noise from under the dashboard, this might be for you (Video 1 - after 11 seconds). There are multiple actuators in the air conditioning system; however in my case, it was the actuator used to mix cold and hot air. As you can see, the actuator is having hard time to recognize its position (Video 2). Solution is to clean all the brushes with alcohol and carefully bend them up (slightly) to make a good contact with the carbon trace (resistor). Note: Grease you see here is dielectric grease. Don't clean them if you don't have dielectric grease with you. Hope this saves you time and money. (PS: If it's still giving troubles, most probably your carbon traces are out of the shape and need a replacement )

How is the joint now? Any updates? I'm asking this because, I got the same CV grease for my CIVIC's inner CV joint. For inner CV joints we need a special grease (kind of cream, more to liquid side rather than normal sticky grease). It's hard to find a good grease from here now. All they have are Sri Lankan made greases which are sticky; I used this last time and CV joint got damage within few KM's. Found a reconditioned CV joint even without a worn mark lol. All these because of the quality of grease.

2007/11

Sorry. Fixed

Honda Civic FD1 - R18A Throttle Body cleaning after ~ 50,000Km. Symptoms: Vibration when the A/C is cycling ON What happened: There was a very little amount of carbon build up on the throttle body and the RPM was dropped by ~200 due to the reduced gap between the throttle body and the plate. It was enough to make the vibration when the A/C compressor is adding some load to the engine. It got recovered within a second; however I felt that so badly LOL * Need to remove the air box completely ** Don't force open the throttle plate (It will damage the throttle body, strip gears and mess your idling) *** To open the throttle plate for cleaning, turn the ignition ON and ask some one to press the accelerator or use a weight. **** Use throttle body cleaner, contact cleaner or carb cleaner. ***** Don't forget to hook the MAF sensor before turn on the ignition otherwise it will log 2 errors (you can clear them if you have a scanner). ****** This method is without disconnecting the battery. No need to re learn the idle after cleaning. Before: After: Cleaned everything and also cleaned the engine + transmission because it's hard to reach this area after assembling the air box Vibration during A/C cycling ON has disappeared and the RPM is stable at ~800 P, N + A/C ON D, R + A/C ON

Unfortunetly. btw, it's not neccessary to change the filter this time

You still pumping 95 ?

Same for me; first time they said the same thing to me. But I got another 3 phones lately without any issues. Never happened any issues with vehicle parts and electronics. Most of them reached my home. @alpha17 be genuine tell the truth they won't like if you lie. Keep in mind most of parcels marking as gifts no problem with that. But they open stuffs in front of you sometimes sellers including visiting cards, some notes ...etc. inside the package. Hope that you won't face a situation like that. That is why I asked to be honest ?.

H7 should be the head lamp. Most of other lamps will be standards. Eg: 21W for turn, 21/5W for stop/parking, 5W for parking, 10W/8W T20 for dome/interior/cluster I don't have a Premio so hard to tell exact sizes without checking. Edit: as @Twin Turbo wrote, turn lights will hyperflash if you don't use a LED compatible flasher. In that case, you will have to upgrade or use a dummy load in parallel to the lamp.

According to my experience, DHL charged me about Rs2800 for clearing my injectors in 2017 (as you know ). All 4 injectors were $87 at that time and DHL charged me $36 to bring it to Kandy from UAE (3 days as I remember). Delcalred value was $60 and Total weight was 1Kg. If the calculation is right, I have paid ~24% as tax. But, when I try to release other items (not vehicle parts) the tax was about 14% or something. And intersting thing is I ordered same injectors last year from China (Genuine, Reconditioned) for another car with China post and they reached my home. Same thing for USPS; some stuffs will be stucked in customs and some will not. I don't know how they do that may be the weight of the package or the size of the package or the custom declaration or may be the carrier or may be the luck? Same thing for electronics too including mobile phones. You don't have to be a girl, if you can talk and behave good you can get them released. If you try to cheat, it will be more problems

Again, old thread. Adding information for future reference. P1320 is common on most of Nissan engines and If you do a Google search most of them will suggest you to change all 4 or 6 coils in first place. Changing all 4 coil packs costs more than 10,000 (reconditioned). But, this error will also be thrown if the ECU detect a misfire. Not only the primary side (transistor or capacitor issue). This is according to my experience on my own Nissan. So, first: you have to check power to the coil (pin 2 is ground and pin 3 is positive). You should have power, 12V always after turning the ignition ON. If the issue is intermittent, this will be hard to track. You may toggle the connector and see whether the wires or the connector faulty or not. If the power supply is OK, then you can check the resistance of the coil pack. Pin 1 - 2: ~1.5Kohm, Pin 1 - 3: ~6Kohm, Pin 2 - 3: ~5Kohm (Sample data from 22448-6N215, 22448-6N015, 22448-6N011 ...etc.) If any power drop even after disconnecting coils, move to the 0.47uF capacitor tapped in to the wiring harness (if any). Capacity should be match the written capacity on the capacitor itself. Also check for shorts. If all OK, inspect coil tube for any leaks. With time, these plastic tubes will develop cracks and spark leaks (can be fixed with few heat shrink tubes). Some coil packs includes a 2.2Kohm resistor inside the tube and needs to be checked. Next step is to check plugs for issues or check fuel trims for any rich or lean conditions which can cause a misfire. Finally you can decide to replace one or more coil packs. You can get a known good coil pack and put it in one cylinder first and check the issue is solved or not. Likewise you have to move the known good one to all four cylinders. This is to save money without throwing money away for unnecessary parts. Tip: If you want to check for spark, you can lift the coil up and listen for the spark and do a cylinder balance test. Never try to disconnect and connect coils from the chip when the engine is running it may fry the ECU if you mistakenly short or if the coil pack failed while re-connecting. PS: You can read, erase codes without a scanner. Do a Google search I also have uploaded a video. Hope this helps.

Old question, adding an answer for future reference. The most common issues of Nissan Neo-Di engines (QG18DD, QR20DD, QR25DD, VQ25DD, VQ30DD ...etc.) are: 1. Faulty injectors which are fail to hold the pressure. Cleaning injectors are completely useless on these engines. 2. High pressure fuel pump failure due to leaking seals inside the pump or low fuel pressure due to worn plungers. 3. High fuel pressure due to a blocked or faulty fuel regulator. Hard starting after warm up, uneven idle, increased fuel consumption and performance issue are the symptoms of these fuel system issues. These issues can be easily identified by looking at fuel trim data and fuel pressure through a scanner. Normal fuel pressure on a QR engine is 6.00MPa at idle and 10 to 11.00MPa at 2500RMP. The pressure should be relief after shutting down the engine. If the fuel regular is blocked, it will be hard to start or throw the error P1232. In your case what was the issue with the pump? Low fuel pressure, high fuel pressure or mechanically failed fuel pump (leaking oil, - gasoline separation seals are mixing gasoline with oil or worn plungers)? You have to diagnose the issue correctly and order a pump online if it's faulty. Look in Russian federation. PS: If you have carbon fouled spark plug or more, it indicates that the injectors are leaking and need to be replaced. If you notice a strong gasoline smell from the oil filler neck, while warming up, that indicates a faulty fuel pump seal. Loss of power may indicate pressure issues.

What is the mileage?

Just adding some information to an old thread because I assume that this will be useful for someone in future. Most of Nissan gasoline engines (QG15DE, QG18DE, QG18DD, QR20DE, QR20DD, QR25DE, QR25DD, VQ...etc.) uses timing chains and no need to follow the 100,000km service inteval unless they are giving issues. But, generally it will start giving issues after 200,000km (depends on the maintenance). Over the time, chain will be stretched couple of millimeters and cause timing issues. Of course chains are not stretching; what happens is links of the chain wears and increases the gap. Finally we have a stretched chain. Most common symptoms of a stretched chain are: 1. Rattle at start-up (faulty tensioner, oil filter which isn't holding pressure or a faulty chain guide also can be the culprit) 2. Loss of power. 3. Idle issues and stalling. 4. Cam, P0340 and crank, P0335 codes will be thrown even after changing sensors. 5. Random misfire or primary ignition failure P1320. Those are the most common symptoms of Nissan's stretched timing chain. The most accurate way to diagnose a stretched timing chain is through an oscilloscope by checking CAM and Crank signals. This may be hard procedure in here? I don't know. The easiest way to diagnose is by removing valve cover or timing chain inspection lid and looking at the main tensioner. If the tensioner piston has came out more than 10mm, then you have a stretched timing chain. Newly installed timing chain won't allow the tensioner piston come out more than 5mm. Finally, changing the timing chain is bit difficult and expensive repair (over 25k depends on the engine and parts quality). You have to remove the timing chain cover on QG series and you have to remove both the timing chain cover and lower part of the sump on QR series because the QR series engine has an extra small chain and tensioner to drive the balancer unit. This repair procedure includes changing two chains, two tensioners , two guides, crank and exhaust cam sprocket. By following proper service intervals and recommend oils, this system will last longer.

Seems like knocking. 92 octane or 95 octane?