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Vismika

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  1. @Kingston777 Speaking of the FAN issue, after replacing it I took apart the old fan. The circuit was quite a bit complex and there were few surface mounted ICs one of which is probably burnt. So trying to repair the fan circuitry was just a waste of time but instead of speed controlling there is a possibility to bypass the circuit and supply current to the fan directly. This would cause the fan to run at its maximum speed at all times, which will eventually solve the overheating problem. But there is a catch, since the circuit is not functioning the ECU detects the fan is failing and the fault will be displayed. Regarding the knock issue: You better replace the 8 spark plugs and do some injector cleaning. If possible clean the EGV too. No need to replace it. I hope this thread will help you. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/18437/honda-fit-gp1-hybrid-2011-knock
  2. I own a Honda Fit Hybrid car with year of manufacture as 2012(GP1). It's odometer reads 71000 km to the date. Speaking about the vehicle's history, it hasn't given me any issue till after the completion of 65000 km reading. As usual we all know that at around 40000km we need to replace the drive train oil or otherwise it gives the indication of HMMF(Honda Multi Matic Fluid) replacement. I performed the procedure when the vehicle was at 38000km mark and scanned and reset the vehicle's ECU. Since then the only replacement I have done for the vehicle was its 12V battery. Please note that almost all Honda Hybrid vehicle's doesn't have an alternator to charge the 12V battery, it is always charged from the High Voltage battery when the vehicle is started. So that if you encounter any problem with the high voltage battery, it stops charging the primary battery where the end result would be vehicle's total system failure. If you see the red battery light on in your display while you're driving it means your primary battery isn't charging form the secondary battery. First you check the fuse box for blown fuse and in most of the cases that would be the issue. Still after replacing the fuse you have to scan the ECU and reset the fault codes. If you ignore the CHECK BATTERY indication it will lead to IMA indication. There after the vehicle's ECU disconnects the High Voltage battery form the drive train for safety purposes. That is one of the ways you get the IMA indication on your vehicle. At around 60000km mark I encountered a new issue. The engine started to give a knock and the CHECK ENGINE light came on. Since it is not an issue for me to resolve I went to a professional for help. He scanned the vehicle for fault codes and informed me that there are some blockages in the fuel injectors and the engine is running lean. (Engine running lean means that the fuel injected to the chamber is ignited with excessive amount of air.) It could be either a problem with the fuel injectors or a problem with air intake. The professional informed me to go for an injector cleaning. The issue was no more after the injector cleaning process. Then came the high voltage battery overheating problem. The system scan showed that the HV battery cooling fan malfunction. We removed the battery and checked the fan separately and it worked fine. After consulting an Engineer at Honda we understood that the battery cooling fan works in 3 stages in Honda, depending on the heat produced by the battery. Due to some electronic failure in the fan driver it didn't change speeds. Therefore i had to replace the fan which cost me around 40000/= . Since then the car became even smoother to drive. The efficiency popped up to 20-22km/l and the high voltage battery bank was at 75% of its initial capacity even after 6 years from manufacture. If you have any information about the problems like this and their fixes I am keen to learn.
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