GearHead

Dear Sylvi Cheers.

Anyone seen The Hobbit? Torrent http://thepiratebay.se/torrent/7978730/The.Hobbit.2012.DVDScr.XVID.AC3.HQ.Hive-CM8 Good movie, but now we have to wait for the other two parts to come out Cheers.

You guys gotta see this..

Probably because it is pointless to throwaway a perfectly fine set of headlights due to some minor-medium surface contamination. With the rights tools and liquids/chemicals you can restore them to b'new condition. However, if the Type R comes with different lights, then it is a different story. Cheers

well, I am not so sure about that bit mate..

Nice hatch. If you are going to do any track work, you'll have to ditch the stock engine and get something better. Where in Aus are you located btw? On a side note, why don't you save all the money that you are going to spend on this car and get an Integra Type R/S or an S2000? I know it is hard to find good examples, but I have seen a few floating around in carsales. All of those cars are P-plater friendly. I have seen freshly imported EP3 Type R s going for around 15K. Cheers

WFT

Looking great there machan..Nice to see that you are doing everything properly without taking any short cuts. Upload more pics please -they don't really have to be in any order. Replace all the oil seals, ribber bushings,etc which you have everything off the car mate..Good luck with all your future work.. Cheers.

^yes and no..my old dual carb MX had some sort of a control unit in the passenger footwell which looked very similar to an 'ECU'. Apparently it controls some vacuum solenoids. However, you cant use it for any diagnosis purposes. EG8 Vtec on the other hand is a different story.

waste of forum space

The weight is exactly where the problem is. Everyone recommends viscosities from 75w-80/90w as they are the normal viscosities used in many manual transmissions. However, I found out the hard way that those viscosities could really affect the shift quality. Spoke to my mechanic who works at Stafford and he told me to switch back the Honda fluids. Problem solved.. Well, I can't really tell you exactly what weight you should use with different products. Stick with the OEM and you should be just fine..What is the price difference? Don't really know if a higher weight gearbox oil would affect your fuel consumption. That is sometimes the case with thicker engine oil though. The difference however is so minute that it is negligible. Cheers.

1.Use the genuine Honda factory manual transmission oil. None of the other brands would give you the same shift feel or the smoothness. I know this as I have tried this myself. Some say use 40w engine oil, but it is all up to you. 2.Call Stafford motors or Teck (spelling) motors mate. They'll give you all the details you need. 3.With timing belt, I'd stick with genuine stuff. Bit pricey, but it is something that will last another 100K. Having said that, I know a lot of people who use after market timing belts and still haven't heard of any failures. So it all depends on how much you are willing to spend. 4. If you are getting the timing belt changed, always do the water pump at the same time. Also check and replace oil seals,etc. Don't forget to replace the t-belt tensioner too mate. 5. Oil selection is fine. To be honest, a genuine honda filter wouldn't cost you any more then a vic filter.. (based on 2008 prices, so things may have changed since then). I have use VIC filters a few time myself without any dramas. 4. Don't replace any other belts if they are still in good condition-money down the drain. Cheers.

Had an EG8 dual carb and that had a cat-converter and a couple O2 sensors. According to one of the technician at Stafford, only JDM imports had them and none of the b'new imports came with any of them (I hve check it myself to verify). Is your car a JDM import? Don't think mine had any letters after D15B either. Your fuel system is a carb. system and not an EFI system. Cheers