varotone

Merry Christmas everyone! I see many welding spots on the brake lines. Plus some other area are corroded. I would like to replace all the brake lines since the existing ones must have run out of their useful life. I see many YouTube videos on refurbishing brake lines from new copper lines. But when I asked my mechanic, he said such work is not done in Sri Lanka. After seeing how neat and tidy the new brake lines look, I'm want to replace all of my brake lines. Can anyone please tell me where to get such a job done? I want to replace all the solid brake lines with new tubes. (Not cutting, welding and bending reconditioned brake lines)

I never knew that! I associate the "wagon" with the likes of Morris Minor Traveler and Ford Country squire

The exact reason why I won't buy a wagon R. Kindda sad they named a kei a wagon

Can you please dm me the link to the advertisement? TIA

Thanks for your suggestions. I think the cappuccino will tick all the boxes. Engine is shared with wagon R. So engine spares should be freely available. A turbo charged, 5 speed manual, front mid engine with rear wheel drive sounds like an absolute blast to drive. Plus I'll get a choice of tops depending on the weather and mood. From what I read online, the beat doesn't share the engine with many other Hondas. So I would rank it below the cappuccino. Any pointers on where to look for a cappuccino up for sale?

I'm looking forward to buy a second car. Expectations are 1. Small in size Smaller the better. I have enough space to park a Suzuki wagon R in addition to my Lancer. Therefore, the car should be similar or smaller than a wagon R. 2. Fun to drive My expectations are not very high. Nimble steering, responsive throttle and decent power to take me from red light to red light without hogging up the lane would be enough. 3. Cheap to buy and run. This is the tricky part. I don't have a fixed budget. I'm looking for a fun car. There's nothing fun about loosing my sleep over leasing payments or massive repair bills. I'll have a look at the car, go for a test drive, speculate about the cost of maintenance and decide if the expense is worth the fun. 4. DIY friendly A good community support with easy to find spares and mechanics who can work on it. One that doesn't need many special tools, no electronic gizmos. 5. Not noisy I don't want the whole neighborhood to wake up when I bring home my date 😜 5. Has to be petrol, manual gear 6. Bonus points for a convertible, two door coupe. 7. Should not be a mini Cooper Edit - Forgot the most important factor. It has to be a vintage/classic car

Resurrecting this thread with a long overdue photo

Congratulations on your purchase. Each car has its own "sweet spot" when it comes to fuel consumption. You will find a rev range where the engine "feels" happy. You actually feel that the engine likes to hang around that spot. Minimum strain, least noise, least vibration, least harshness. Just keep driving for some time and you'll instinctively know what the sweet spot is. It's purely orgasmic to cruise at that RPM. Take it slow and take time to bond with your car. This is specially true for cars of this vintage where different components like the distributor, plug leads, spark plugs, injectors replaces with non-factory parts at different intervals and the general wear and tear makes each car unique. What works for another car of the same make and model with the same milage might not work for you. Use this method 1. Fill up the tank till petrol just starts to overflow from the overflow/breather hose. 2. Zero the trip meter. (Or note down the Odo or do both) 3. Drive till about half of the tank is empty. This doesn't have to be exact. Just drive a significant distance that reflects how your usual commute is. 4. Drive to a petrol shed. 5. Calculate how many miles you drove since the previous full tank. Let the distance be d (in km) 6. Fill the tank till petrol just starts to overflow. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUMP EXCESS. 7. Note the volume of petrol you pumped. Let this be v (in L) 8. Calculate the fuel efficiency in km/L by FE = d/v 9. Sit down and cry 10. Wipe your tears and say "It's totally worth the pleasure of driving" and smile. Repeat steps 1 through 10

Locking the diff and 4x4 are two different things. If the front diff is locked, the front wheel without traction should not spin freely. If you switch to 4LO and the only the rear wheels are spinning (without traction and digging yourself further) then 4LO is not engaging. You can check if the diff is locked properly by jacking up one wheel and trying to turn it by hand. If it can spin freely, that means the diff lock is not engaged. Sorry I don't know any good places to check the 4x4

No need to replace the leaf springs unless the steel leafs are worn out, rusted, or broken. What usually wears out are the rubber bushes, the plastic square bits between the metal leafs and the shock absorber. If the spring is bent out of shape, they will hammer it and correct the curvature. If you have to replace the shock absorber that will be bit expensive. No point in repairing old shock absorbers. Cost depends on what needs to be done. My case only the bushes and the shock absorber needed replacement. The u bolts, shackles and leafs were good. It was around 4k for labor, another 5k for bushes, 11k for the shock absorbers. You can always go and get a quotation beforehand. I'll DM you the contact details. Let me know if you need any other details. Cheers

This is how worn rear suspension components feel. There's a place at Nugegoda that I got done my leaf springs. They did a very good job for a reasonable fee. Don't expect the body-on-chassis construction to have the same comfort as a monocoque car. But the rear end shouldn't bounce off in any roadworthy vehicle.

Does this go from the top of the radiator to the coolant reservoir? This part is exposed to less heat and pressure compared to the rest of the coolant horses. Why don't you try DIY? Remove the horse and find a length of coolant horse form any auto parts shop and fix it yourself. Where are the horse clips on this one?

It's unlikely to be from the propeller shaft if it disappears at high speeds. How is your wheel balance and alignment?

If you have the damaged number plate, you can take it to RMV at Narahenpita and request a new one. I lost my number plate and had to submit a police entry also. I got my replacement in 2 weeks iirc.

If you transfer the vehicle to your name, the province will change. You have to pay a "number plate fee" as well. There was some news about discontinuing the province in the number plates. It's not implemented yet.

Drive shafts are usually factory balanced. You may see a bit/s of small metal squares welded on to the shaft. That's for balancing. It's very unlikely that these to be inadvertently removed. Does the vibration disappear beyond 30kmph? Does revving cause the vibration?

Greetings gentlemen! This is going to be a long rant, venting and some advice on what to do for the next six years. My apologies in advance for lamenting about the state of affairs in our country and spreading the negativity. I did't really need a car regularly as a daily driver for this long. My commute was under kilometer for the past five years. I used to walk, ride the motorcycle or take a three wheeler or take the trusty old car lately when it rained. My Lancer restoration project had to be sidelined because of studies and some other unexpected expenses. The car is back on the road and I drive it often. (The paint job is sub-par, didn't do the upholstery and cushions. But mechanics are in order except for the suspension overhaul that I've been putting off. That's why I didn't update the topic on the restoration. Let's leave it here and get back to it later) I am happy with the simple mechanics and the creature comforts (or the lack of thereof) of the trusty old Lancer Wagon. I went for my first interview, first job, and plenty of long distance trips in this. At one time during the height of the COVID pandemic I had to drive daily for 100 Km up and down the southern expressway daily for short term employment for two months. The Lancer proved to be extremely useful when out house was being renovated. Now due to change in work and higher studies i'm in a dilemma. I will be stationed more than 150km far from home. Traveling daily would not make sense. So I will have to find accomodation somewhere close to work. But I still need to come home for weekends for studies. Now I realy good car as a daily driver to drive long distances reliability and comfortably. My priorities are reliability, fuel efficiency,small in size (Should share the garage space with the Lancer) safety, decent driver comfort (Does't fatigue easily) and most importantly affordability. It is a bonus if I can get a relatively new, naturally aspirated, all wheel drive with manual transmission. My best bets were hatchbacks. Here are some options that I looked at 1. Kia picanto 2016/2016 - price range from 5-6 million 2. Fabia 2020 - price 8.5 million unregistered- Just came across on the quick site. Haven't even seen the car in real life 3. Demio 2008 - price 4.5-5 million 3. Polo 2018 - price range 9.9 million 4. Ford festiva 2016 - price range 9 million 5. Ion 20/30 -not available 6. Yaris GR - Just joking! 7. Viva elite - 3-4 million 8. Alto 2018 - 4.5-6 million My budget is 3.5 million cash plus a lease of 80,000LKR per month. I just can't make up my mind on what to do. I'm afraid to go for old cars that I don't particularly love. Due to my commitments, I will have to stay in the county for the next 6ish years. The current car prices will only become crazier in the future. So, I'm planning on using the car that I buy till I sort my stuff and bail out before $h!t hits the fan in Sri Lanka. I have been thinking about completing the restoration of the Lancer, doing up the upholstery, seats and re-paint the car. But I need a car for daily driving these days and don't have much time to spend on the restoration. I'm also contemplating on finding a really good workshop to get the full resto done under one roof while I use a rental car for some time till the Lancer Wagon is restored to the former glorious days like it rolled off the production line. Pipe dreams! I may end up shelling out some serious money on it but would it be ultimately cheaper to take that path because I will have a decent, albeit old reliable car for the next six years? Honestly, there is a lot going through my head these days and I can't figure out what to do. I may need therapy!

Inside the engine means inside the cylinder? How did it fall inside? If it fell inside the cylinder, DON'T START THE CAR. Take it to a place with a borescope. They can remove whatever is inside without removing the cylinder head.

She is drop dead gorgeous 🥰 Specimens like these pop up for sale these days? Congratulations mate!

Are you referring to cabin temperature or tyre temperature? How did you measure the tyre temperature?

Great project dude! I planned to integrate an Arduino in my lancer wagon. Keep the Arduino hidden with the ability to track the car, warn about speed, door not locked, battery, oil, temper and stuff. Efi conversion is interesting. I'd like to do the same. Keep us posted. Good luck with your project 👍

Keeping it period appropriate 👍. Battery drain could be due to the stereo or something else. Check the parasitic draw to confirm.

Cassettes! Jeez! From where do you buy them? Don't they deteriorate over time rather quickly? Anyways, you'll have to set the EQ, volume and will loose the last played if you use CDs. I hope you get what I'm trying to say. If the stereo works after removing the display, then go for it. Also, is there an after market security system? That also will draw a current.