varotone

Merry Christmas everyone! I see many welding spots on the brake lines. Plus some other area are corroded. I would like to replace all the brake lines since the existing ones must have run out of their useful life. I see many YouTube videos on refurbishing brake lines from new copper lines. But when I asked my mechanic, he said such work is not done in Sri Lanka. After seeing how neat and tidy the new brake lines look, I'm want to replace all of my brake lines. Can anyone please tell me where to get such a job done? I want to replace all the solid brake lines with new tubes. (Not cutting, welding and bending reconditioned brake lines)

I never knew that! I associate the "wagon" with the likes of Morris Minor Traveler and Ford Country squire

The exact reason why I won't buy a wagon R. Kindda sad they named a kei a wagon

Can you please dm me the link to the advertisement? TIA

Thanks for your suggestions. I think the cappuccino will tick all the boxes. Engine is shared with wagon R. So engine spares should be freely available. A turbo charged, 5 speed manual, front mid engine with rear wheel drive sounds like an absolute blast to drive. Plus I'll get a choice of tops depending on the weather and mood. From what I read online, the beat doesn't share the engine with many other Hondas. So I would rank it below the cappuccino. Any pointers on where to look for a cappuccino up for sale?

I'm looking forward to buy a second car. Expectations are 1. Small in size Smaller the better. I have enough space to park a Suzuki wagon R in addition to my Lancer. Therefore, the car should be similar or smaller than a wagon R. 2. Fun to drive My expectations are not very high. Nimble steering, responsive throttle and decent power to take me from red light to red light without hogging up the lane would be enough. 3. Cheap to buy and run. This is the tricky part. I don't have a fixed budget. I'm looking for a fun car. There's nothing fun about loosing my sleep over leasing payments or massive repair bills. I'll have a look at the car, go for a test drive, speculate about the cost of maintenance and decide if the expense is worth the fun. 4. DIY friendly A good community support with easy to find spares and mechanics who can work on it. One that doesn't need many special tools, no electronic gizmos. 5. Not noisy I don't want the whole neighborhood to wake up when I bring home my date 😜 5. Has to be petrol, manual gear 6. Bonus points for a convertible, two door coupe. 7. Should not be a mini Cooper Edit - Forgot the most important factor. It has to be a vintage/classic car

Resurrecting this thread with a long overdue photo

Congratulations on your purchase. Each car has its own "sweet spot" when it comes to fuel consumption. You will find a rev range where the engine "feels" happy. You actually feel that the engine likes to hang around that spot. Minimum strain, least noise, least vibration, least harshness. Just keep driving for some time and you'll instinctively know what the sweet spot is. It's purely orgasmic to cruise at that RPM. Take it slow and take time to bond with your car. This is specially true for cars of this vintage where different components like the distributor, plug leads, spark plugs, injectors replaces with non-factory parts at different intervals and the general wear and tear makes each car unique. What works for another car of the same make and model with the same milage might not work for you. Use this method 1. Fill up the tank till petrol just starts to overflow from the overflow/breather hose. 2. Zero the trip meter. (Or note down the Odo or do both) 3. Drive till about half of the tank is empty. This doesn't have to be exact. Just drive a significant distance that reflects how your usual commute is. 4. Drive to a petrol shed. 5. Calculate how many miles you drove since the previous full tank. Let the distance be d (in km) 6. Fill the tank till petrol just starts to overflow. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUMP EXCESS. 7. Note the volume of petrol you pumped. Let this be v (in L) 8. Calculate the fuel efficiency in km/L by FE = d/v 9. Sit down and cry 10. Wipe your tears and say "It's totally worth the pleasure of driving" and smile. Repeat steps 1 through 10

Locking the diff and 4x4 are two different things. If the front diff is locked, the front wheel without traction should not spin freely. If you switch to 4LO and the only the rear wheels are spinning (without traction and digging yourself further) then 4LO is not engaging. You can check if the diff is locked properly by jacking up one wheel and trying to turn it by hand. If it can spin freely, that means the diff lock is not engaged. Sorry I don't know any good places to check the 4x4

No need to replace the leaf springs unless the steel leafs are worn out, rusted, or broken. What usually wears out are the rubber bushes, the plastic square bits between the metal leafs and the shock absorber. If the spring is bent out of shape, they will hammer it and correct the curvature. If you have to replace the shock absorber that will be bit expensive. No point in repairing old shock absorbers. Cost depends on what needs to be done. My case only the bushes and the shock absorber needed replacement. The u bolts, shackles and leafs were good. It was around 4k for labor, another 5k for bushes, 11k for the shock absorbers. You can always go and get a quotation beforehand. I'll DM you the contact details. Let me know if you need any other details. Cheers

This is how worn rear suspension components feel. There's a place at Nugegoda that I got done my leaf springs. They did a very good job for a reasonable fee. Don't expect the body-on-chassis construction to have the same comfort as a monocoque car. But the rear end shouldn't bounce off in any roadworthy vehicle.

Does this go from the top of the radiator to the coolant reservoir? This part is exposed to less heat and pressure compared to the rest of the coolant horses. Why don't you try DIY? Remove the horse and find a length of coolant horse form any auto parts shop and fix it yourself. Where are the horse clips on this one?

It's unlikely to be from the propeller shaft if it disappears at high speeds. How is your wheel balance and alignment?

If you have the damaged number plate, you can take it to RMV at Narahenpita and request a new one. I lost my number plate and had to submit a police entry also. I got my replacement in 2 weeks iirc.