varotone

You came very close to the proper cold starting procedure. Yours might have required different sequence. Proper cold start process with auto choke is 1. Floor the gas pedal once swiftly. This engages the accelerator pump and releases a puff of petrol above the throttle plates. And turns the cam lobe that closes the auto choke if it's sufficiently cold. 2. Immediately turn the key and start. The rich mixture will air out with time. 3. Don't move the gas pedal till you reach operating temperature. Once the engine starts going, it will generate enough vacuum to pull a vacuum diaphragm on the cab pulling open the choke plate and keeping it locked open. Trying to pump/flicker the gas pedal will prevent the required vacuum from building up to close the choke plate. Or it will puff out too rich mixture ultimately wetting the spark plugs. At that point you have to wait for a long time for the plugs to dry and mixture to vent out before attempting again. There's some YouTube video on this which I'm finding difficult to locate.

Thanks @tilvin. Had a look at your profile and saw that you are not a newbie to AL. I was rebuilding the carburetor and here you are asking if it's diesel or petrol? Injector pump? Injector nozzles and the like. It's unlikely that you are a troll (or are you?). Has lockdown got the best of you? Has the moonshine started working? Or smoked something different? If it's the last, care to share some with me? Edit - or is your account compromised?

Regarding the automatic choke that I was trying to fix from the beginning, It is impossible to fix. I was planning to drill out the broken nozzle line thing and tap a threaded hole to fix a hydraulic threaded nipple and connect the coolant horse to the nipple. Unfortunately, the choke housing the bi-metal stripe is rounded. So a thread drilled on to this curved piece will not have enough threads to securely hold the threaded nipple. Never strong enough to handle the pressure inside the cooling system. Welding would cause havoc on the thin metal. I'll try my luck finding the auto choke at the scrap yards. Dysfunctional auto choke has never given me issues (Touch wood). If I find it difficult to start on a chilly morning in Nuwara Eliya, all I have to do is just pop the hood, fiddle under the air cleaner to manually close the choke, start the car and open the choke again once the engine is warmed up. It's a minor inconvenience. Cause for the gasket failure that prompted all this was a little warpage on the intake manifold mating with the carburetor. Nearly 0.6mm at the maximum. Refaced that while still fixed to the engine. Nothing to worry since the gasket itself was intact.

Carburetor rebuilding Before dismantling Work in progress Clean venturi New power piston Float adjustment New primary jets New accelerator pump After rebuild Lessons learnt Read the manual fully before beginning. Don't read one step, do that step, read the next, do the next. Some important information is at the end. Most Aisan carbs are similar. Therefore, these lessons are valid for a wide range of carbs. Remove the carb from the manifold, take it to a place with good ventilation, turn it over to drain any petrol in the float chamber. Do the rebuild in a well-lit, well ventilated place. Lay an old towel on a large table in a place without clutter. Some tiny bit will certainly fall out. An indoor location without clutter helps in this situation. You don't want to crawl under beds with a light hoping to find a 3mm spring that flew away! an old towel or thick cloth prevents the tendency of stuff bumping and rolling on the table. Plenty of small containers, labels, pen and paper, small bags Phone. Video every step of disassembly. Narrate stuff as you go on. Like "this nut has one copper washer. This one is little larger than the second and has a spring washer. Take couple of photos from different angles in tricky places. Video the assembly as well. when you missed one bit during reassembly you can pinpoint at what point things went wrong instead of going crazy. In addition to the usual tools have a 9mm deep skinny socket, long needle nose pliers. Proceed dismantling stepwise. Video everything, label and bag stuff then and there, take notes/narrate. Preserve every bit that you find. After completely dismantling, start cleaning. first remove the gasket residue. Don't use metal bristles to unclog small pores. Use carb cleaner and nylon bristle or compressed air. Check all the mating surfaces for flatness. I wanted mine to be 0.05 mm or flatter. Carb is a delicate piece held together by small screws. It won't hold much torque like bolts. So, ensure all the surfaces are quite flat to begin with. Mine had 0.5mm unevenness on the float bowl mating surface but didn't give any issues. Intake manifold had 0.6mm and gave issues- made me do this rebuild. Wash out everything with liquid soap and copious amounts of warm water. Don't use power detergents or soap. The particles can clog up small passages and nozzles. I used the pressure washer carefully. Make sure every passage is opened up with pressured air or carb cleaner. Again, don't use metal bristles. Buy the rebuild kit. Some gasket making paper, fresh vacuum tubes. Check what parts you have got in the kit. Have the exploded view of the carb printed. Pay the disassembly videos on the computer; last one first. Get the video rolling on the phone and go back to putting back the carb. Replace everything you got new in the kit. Make sure throttle plates move freely, pistons move freely, screws and bolts are tight enough. Mine doesn't have a sight glass. The only method to make sure your float chamber is filled up to the spec is adjust the clearances as per specks. Needle to float is 0.9mm. Float to brim is 7.5mm. Triple check because if it is wrong, there's no other way to check the level without taking apart the whole thing and measure the clearances. Adjust the accelerator pump travel to speck. Adjust throttle opening angles of the both primary and secondary and choke to speck. To set secondary throttle opening angles, you have to open it by applying vacuum from outside (by sucking in air). I don’t have a throttle plate angle measurement gauge. I have devised a mathematical method of measuring (calculating) throttle angle with several measurements using a caliper. Here is the calculation. First measure dimensions a to e with the throttle fully closed. To set the throttle to some given angle, calculate x and set the depth x measured using the caliper. It should work as well or even better than the angle gauge. When bending the tabs to set angles don’t bend them back and forth like crazy with a pair of pliers. Instead use a small G clamp. Bend by slowly closing the clamp and check. If it needs to be bent some more, close the clamps by another turn. Repeat till you hit the specs. Check al the vacuum tubes are snug. Temporarily plug those that you are not using currently. Lubricate the springs, levers, shafts and the whole moving sliding mechanism. Make sure all open and close all the way before putting it in the car. Fix the carb, put back what you removed, fire her up, tune the idle, throttle, and AC idle up. Enjoy the happy purring! Because the throttle response could be changed, take a test drive. I had a crappy secondary throttle before. I didn’t realize it till I took apart everything. Now that everything is working as intended, the throttle is more responsive. When this pandemic situation eases I'll take a test drive. Perhaps burn a few donuts!

Thanks for the words of encouragement! I finally did it! . Manual certainly helped. Thanks @Davy for the manual and @Rumesh88 for sending me some resources to learn all about carbs. After a couple of weeks of reading, couple of gurling days of taking apart, cleaning and rebuilding the carb, I know how a carb works. I also have the bragging rights to say "I rebuilt my own carburetor" I'm certainly not a master in the dark art of repairing cabs. But I know where every orifice leads to, how each vacuum behaves, and what each adjustment screw does. That's sufficient for my needs.

The issue was the gasket between the carburetor and intake manifold. Carburetor per se is alright. I didn't go to Banda's place because many said place doesn't live up to the hype. Some members recommended the Cotta road place. I went there. What he said was that the carb is alright, but not in perfect shape. Doing a rebuild right now would not be the best value for money. Plus fixing the choke would cost quite a bit. Replacement would be cheaper and reliable. So while I removed the carburetor to make a gasket, I decided to do a carburetor rebuild on my own. The only time I used to touch the carb is to adjust idle☺️. Since reliable carb mechanics are difficult to find, I decided to learn the dark art of carburetor repairs. Carbs have been difficult to understand for me. I did quite a bit of reading on carburetors, went through the manual and went ahead with the dismantling. I'll update once the rebuild is done.

I found the source of the noise today?. It if from the carburetor intake manifold gasket. Something has caused a gasket failure. Carb mounting bolts are tight. But there is some invisible gap between the two. To confirm my diagnosis I used some gasket maker glue and the noise disappeared. Now that I know what is wrong, I'm going to take out the carb, face the mating surfaces (at home with sandpaper) and replace the gasket. I wonder why the new gasket failed so quickly?

Water pump was not replaced during the rebuild because it looked like it was replaced recently. Impeller was not rusted. It was in good condition and the mechanic recommended to use the existing one. So, the noise is less likely to be from the water pump. By just spinning the water pump from outside I didn't feel any obvious wear. I doubt if I left the engine running long enough without the water pump belt to see if the noise appears. (I was worried about water not getting circulated in the engine. So only ran it for a short time) I'll get my mechanic to have a look once the current situation eases.

I've tried running without the AC compressor belt. It made no difference. Next tried removing the alternator/water pump belt for a short time. Could not replicate the noise within that short period. (I'm a bit nervous about running the engine for long without the water pump spinning). For good measure checked the timing belt tension again and found it to be within speck: 5 to 7mm. Alternator belt tension also adequate: 7 to 9mm. But when spinning the alternator by hand there was minimal noise. So I dissembled the alternator and replaced the bearings. I didn't put back the AC compressor belt yet. Still there's the noise but now for very short duration and quite difficult to replicate. Lasts for a very short time. Not enough time to locate from where the noise is coming from. I have tried spraying water on the belts to see if it disappears. Checked vacuum lines for leaks, anything that may be running on the spinning belts. Found none of them. Speaking of torquing down the bolts to specs?‍♂️ After seeing that the repair manual giving torque specs for almost all the bolts (including buffer, seats, steering wheel...) I bought a 'digital toque wrench adaptor' online. I being penny-wise ordered the cheapest one I could find with the maximum torque range without bothering about the seller's rating. It never arrived, no refund. Penny wise pound foolish me is now without a torque wrench ? So, all the bolts with high torque such as mounting bolts are tighten to the maximum with a socket wrench and cheater bar. (My mechanic torqued the innards of the engine. No worries there☺️) In hindsight I should have bought a quality torque wrench from a local tool shop. But the range is limited and costs a lot. The digital toque adapter would still be the best bang for the buck

Chill man! They are rattly smokey rust buckets because of years of abuse, neglect and blotchy repairs. Most countries have annual vehicle inspection to make sure they are roadworthy vehicles. That keeps rust buckets out of the road. Car enthusiasts keep their old cars in pristine condition and keep running them regardless of old they are. Or scrap the old cars are buy new ones. But in SL, decent new cars are prohibitively expensive. On top of that non-existent vehicle inspection and corrupt bureaucracy can keep rust buckets running and treated for artificial inflated prices. There are a few who take exceptional good care of their old cars. But they are not the ones who are looking for a "market price" I reserve my comments on Scotty for another time ?. A quick glance at €L@K!R! shows many threads on 90s vehicles in sinhala. Please make use of your knowledge and wisdom there to enlighten the masses in sinhala about the glory of the 90s cars. While you are at it, please make the maxxa boyzz stop making Frankensteins out of fibre. Peace✌️

Goodness gracious! 90s cars are cool. But attempting to increase the market value of numerous rattly smokey rust buckets in the country to save forex ?‍♂️♂️ you are on a whole other level!

Thank you for your advice. (For a moment I forgot how common this engine is and worried about finding the exact part?) So here's what I did today. Parts list. All OEM. Price in LKR. 1. Timingbelt tensioner razor 2500 2. Timing belt 1800 3. Alternator belt 600 4. Ac belt 550 5. Oil filter 760 6. Havoline 15w-40 4L 4000 I swapped the belts, tensioner, oil filter and filled her up. Fired up the engine ?. It ran smooth for a couple of minutes and then this happened☹️ (Sorry for not keeping the thread updated. Engine was rebuilt and broken into in my absence. Belts and tensioner were not replaced after the rebuild.) There is a loud high pitched noise depending on the rpm. It only exists within a narrow range of rpm. When I started the car today morning I heard the same noise for a short time. I tried to replicate the noise without success. So I gave up the idea of investigating it and went ahead with the belt swap hoping the noise is a squeaky belt. Now the noise is heard persistently throughout a range of rpm. Here's a video clip including the noise. https://imgur.com/a/c0sCr81 Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

I want to replace the timing belt tensioner pulley because it is noisy. I'm trying to replace only the bearing because the pulley itself looks good. But because of the way it's attached to the mounting bracket it seems impossible to push out the bearing with a hydraulic press. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Or should I replace the whole pulley mechanism?

1. Yes. Got it straight from the horse's mouth. A scratch is a damage in my book. Should it be replaced? If there are no other damages, no need to replace. Give a good visual inspection from above, below and around. 2. Low probability of damage from the missed timing alone. Since you are quite worried, why not give it a thorough overall? Check for cracks, warps, end float, then remove and check for run-out. May be a magnaflux also. 3. Very likely. Con rods, gudgeon pins, cam lobes Did you get a chance to start the new engine before transplanting? In other words, are you certain that this noise occured after the wrong timing? It may have been there. "Small noises" can be due to worn bearings and timing belt tensioner pulley. May be even vacuum leaks. PS. I know you spent money on two engines and frustrated because you still couldn't fix the car. Don't loose you cool. Every member commented tried to help you or point you to the right direction. Don't loose faith in mechanics or even the makabass because he messed up the engine from a simple mistake. It happens to the best of us. The last person we need here is the astrologer who can read your post and tell what components need replacement and also give you the auspicious time to repair the car.

After damaging the valves from wrong timing, you replaced only the block and head. Along with the head did you replace only the broken valve or all valves, rocker arm shafts and the cam shaft? It's very likely that more than one valve was damaged from wrong timing. Valves will be the first to damage, but crank shaft and con rods also may be damaged. So check all the connecting rods, gudgeon pins, crank shaft and pistons while you are at it. You'll have to take the crank shaft to a machine shop to check it. It's worth the pain because if it's bent it will cause serious damage to the bore. Because the metal piece was floating around inside the ignition chamber, it may have damaged valve seats as well. Check that as well. BTW, why did you swap the engine when you could have rebuilt it?

From YouTube channel Restoration of everything. Apparently Sri Lankan!

Yes it seems. It's scary to understand that the virus can survive in the air for 3 hours!

UV light kills viruses. I saw reports of china using UV light to disinfect busses and trains during this COVID-19 outbreak. Drawbacks are risk of sunburn, skin cancer on direct exposure and difficulty in calculating the required power and time to properly disinfect. This is OT, but some important information that came out yesterday.

I ordered a couple of uv lights to use it for disinfection. Sadly, I'm yet to receive it. Plan was to keep the uv lights lit up after getting home. Now I'm just using hand rub on the steering wheel and gear knob.

A Mitsubishi Galant (ten light) popped up on classifieds sometimes back for 600k. 1600 with 5FW would pack a punch. Rathnapura has a good collection of 'box model' Lancers in top shape. Apparently some are still agent maintained and with the first owner! 5FW, red beading, gsr shell is the Holy Grail it seems. Fiat Uno is also fun to drive. Bare minimalist and seems like brand new spare parts are still coming in. @matroska I'm salivating over that Datto

Yah. It will fill. Even some cataloy paste putty would do. Will it hold up is the question. If that starts expanding when the engine is running, it will crack the head or warp it. The three brands you mentioned are OEM manufactures making good products. But the problem is the market is flooded with counterfeit OEM parts. What you buy thinking as OEM NPR can be a fake Chinese one.

This should be adopted as the standard for traffic lights. Fun part is when all bad tempered drivers start meeting out punishment to the other bad tempered ones. Picture this. A bus driver with a short fuse honks the horn and counter resets! Every other driver drags the offender out of the vehicle and serves him right.

Deepest sympathy for your loss. Why do you want to sell the Noah in the first place? If you don't have time to spend in the garage, then forget about selling and buying a vehicle. Selling and buying will consume far more time than you expect. (Unless you sell it to a car sale and buy brand new). Also mess with you work/study schedule, negotiating a sale is nerve-wracking, still have to go to a garage, expenses for travel, every "buyer" trying to test your patience... All that hassle. My two cents is unless you want to sell it and buy a cheaper vehicle thereby making some profit from the transaction, keep what you have.

There are cheap no-brand-name blue clay bars on AliExpress. I bought a couple of them. It gets the job done. I used it to remove overspray and it is quite effective. Used during washing, soon after rinsing the soap. Used some car was liquid in a spray bottle for lubrication. It didn't seem to scratch things up.

Running on nitrogen? You mean the fuel is liquid nitrogen or the tyres are inflated with (80%?) nitrogen?