varotone

1. I bought it from W!ckr@m@ motors, Panchikawatta. 2. The brand that I bought is "Keyster". There were a few other brands also. They didn't have the other brands fitting my carb. This was my very first attempt at rebuilding a carb. So, I don't have any baseline to say how good or bad the kit is. Thankfully everything fit well. gaskets and all. (Also I bought this kit amidst the COVID lockdown. Didn't even bother to shop around or look at other brands. I just grabbed the first kit that fits my carb and hoped for the best) 3. Carb kits are readily available. I had to go to a few places to find one that fits mine. In addition to the carb kit I bought a gasket paper, again readily available. My kit came with everything that I needed. So, I didn't have to shop for other bits like jets, needles and stuff. I suspect that such parts are also available to be purchased individually. Glad that I could help. Thanks for the wishes. Best of luck with your project!

I beg to differ. While most "popular" models are inflated at present, decent, fun (little old) cars go for reasonably low prices. I don't see a problem with someone buying a second/unnecessary car when prices are low and some are in dire need for cash. Actually, IF I had a premio/alion I would sell it with a fat profit and buy a couple of fun cars, mod them and even have more cash to spare. I get to keep a couple of fun cars, some spare cash and would help a cash strapped petrolhead desperate to sell off his ride.

The video had me laughing for quite some time. Presenter : let it warm up @Hoonigan: I drove it here. It's already warm. P: I mean me! H: ... P: How do you drive this comfortably? H: You don't ... P: your side mirrors are kinda useless H: they are completely useless. I love this unapologetic attitude.

Rust remover that I used is called "Rust remover 125" from Akzo Nobel. You have to sand the surface first, apply rust remover and scrub with a wire brush. Wash it off with water and apply primer as soon as it dries before corrosion starts again. Good for getting rust out of nooks and crannies. Multilac has a rust converter which doesn't need to be washed off afterwards. Little hard to come by.

Someone who owns a couple of classics talked me out of using undercoat. He said that this stuff is supposed to go on brand new cars before being driving out. Surface should be 100% rust free for it to properly work. He had once used it on a resto. According to him, surface looked rust free, but it was rusting from inside. Due to the tacky texture of the undercoat, it doesn't come off in flakes as regular paint when the it is rusting. Once a large enough area is rusted the whole thing falls down. Like a whole floor plate would fall off! Even when it falls off, the painted surface looks good with no signs of corrosion. This is what he said. I've not seen this happen. His story was scary enough. I've gone with two part marine paint.

Here's to a great project Did it already change colors or is it the lighting? You replaced radiator, differential, brakes and a whole bunch of stuff for 78k? I've seen 4DR reconditioned parts go for insanely high prices.

Using a lower pressure rated cap will cause the coolant to boil and evaporate. Quite possible that the wrong spec cap is the cause. Just keep an eye on the coolant level for some time just to be sure that there are no leaks under pressure. when you the system is pressurized properly, some leaks that did not show up at low pressure may show up. (None will be there if you did a proper job in the first place. But it seems like you didn't?) Top off the lost volume with the same coolant. Happy motoring!

Check the temperature of engine block and coolant hose with a IR thermometer just to make sure. Also check for visible leaks when the engine is hot

Did you replace the radiator cap with a quality product matching your pressure spec? Does it produce white smoke? Steam? Funny smelling exhaust? Is oil fouled with coolant? Do you see air bubbling in the radiator? Tricky to check because it may appear only when the engine is in operating temperature when poor quality head gasket is used or improperly fitted. Any loss of power? Hesitancy? Do a compression test and leak down test of you are suspecting head gasket failure.

Hooniyan rhythms with Thomian. Without [ ] this might be in the same vein as Thomian. It sounds awfully similar to hooniyam - black magic. May be a "kattadiya" looking for free advertising ?

In the video it looked liked the wagonR is on two wheels when it took the turn. I feel like it might topple over if it didn't collide. (May be the wide angle CCTV distorts the image. But other vehicles didn't look like about to topple.) It also appears he didn't slow down. Just cuts in to the byroad. Subi driver might not have thought that this wagonR will make a sharp turn at that speed. (I'm not trying to justify the subi driver in anyway)

This is a rollercoaster of a thread! Started with a guy looking for something that can navigate a corner at 30kmph without the passengers (without seatbelts?) sliding across. One dude suggested a Forester @everyf4 will be hitting apexes in perfect racing lines! Overkill. But my heart says go for it before someone talks you in to buying a 141! The inner pragmatist in me suggests you test drive a decent sedan. Pretty much any sedan has significantly less body roll than the every. A wagon such as a fielder offers decent body roll with space. Give it a test drive.

I wish the non essential vehicle imports (cars, luxury vehicles, motorcycles) would stop for a couple of years, while still permitting commercial/special purpose ones like decent busses, panel vans, prime movers, ambulance and such. With election around the corner and a few new cronies waiting impatiently to grab a permit, I doubt that anything would change. They might say a convoy of latest Jeep's is essential for them to get to their electorate to "serve" the voters. Government servants entitled for a permit haven't changed their minds either. Personally I think now is not the best time to clamp down on non roadworthy vehicles (given the economic hardships people face now). But a good time to prevent substandard imports. (Hacked to death Japanese recons and substandard Indian bn ones). There was a hint of improvement in public transport with reserving train tickets and changing the schedule based on demand. CTB busses dedicated to offices.. it failed miserably. A step in the right direction nevertheless. Also, rather than trying to limit the drain of foreign exchange for vehicles during the immediate future, we should look in to other ways of preserving foreign exchange. We will be importing vehicles for the foreseeable future. Halting it for one year is a temporary fix. A sustainable method of preventing foreign exchange drain would be to limit imports of food, milk, fruits, clothing. Sure we may not be able to grow wheat here successfully. But we can find an alternative that we can grow here. Imported onions, potato, apples, mandarins and milk powder can stop. We can find suitable alternative food sources. It's not like we will die without wheat flour bread and milk. Intelligent omnivores animals like us can adapt much better. Permanently hanging our food habits will cumulatively save more than a temporary ban on importing vehicles for an year. Or else we are back at square one after one year. As a country, If we are not ready to give up some creature comforts, we better work out a method to bring down shit loads of FE through services sector. (I'm no economics expert. All this might be a pipe dream ?)

Shouldn't this be the very reason why R&D is required? If they do some solid R&D on figuring out the tech, minimizing the butchering, testing the integrity of the structure and the safety after the conversion, I believe there's a market opportunity for such a business. If electric is the future of cars, and manufactures stop making ICE consumables (or gasoline for vehicles) such conversions should take off. Also I don't believe that they should start converting classics to EV. (Other than for building up the hype) Focusing on newer common vehicles would make much sense. If they were really successful, they could sell such technology back to the car manufacturer. Where the manufacturer can start making EVs of their existing ICE models with quick turnaround time. (It's not clear what will happen to classics when proposed phasing out of ICE vehicles comes in to effect in EU and elsewhere. I'm hopeful that they will be made an exception with higher taxes than EVs and stringent regulation on driving)

Made some progress! Finally managed to get the timing light working. LEDs don't light up at full brightness. Tried to increase the brightness by adding a transistor to operate in saturation and cutoff regions alternatively. That gave some issues with light staying on for too long. Finally attached the LEDs to a long handle so that it can be moved closer to the timing marks to illuminate well. It's working. Added a optotransistor in series with the LED and fed a signal wave to the Arduino. Now that the arduino is galvanically isolated from the noisy bits of the circuit, signal to noise was good enough. For the time being, RPM is printed to serial. Will add a LCD after the dwell angle is done. I documented this on instructables. https://www.instructables.com/id/Timing-Light-and-Tachometer-With-Arduino

Damage due to a peacock crashing the expressway was covered once. I don't see why rats are an exception. If you are an unfortunate victim of rat damage, please update on what happened with the claim. It would be nice to know.

I can't wrap my head around how one end of a wire can create a voltage from the induced EMF. If it actually works on picking up EMF like a transformer, wrapping copper coil around an toroidal transformer core and placing it around the HT lead should give a strong signal minimizing noise. I'll have to try that. Gate-source voltage for 2N7000 is 20V. Drain current is 200mA. Threshold voltage is 0.8-3.0V. I thought of replacing it with IRF830AS. Gate-source voltage 30. Drain current 5A. Threshold voltage 2-5V. And replace the zener with 12V 1watt. IRF830AS is a beefy package with a heatsink. It might withstand some spikes. I can't simulate the circuit without knowing the induced voltage. I have to go with trial and error.

First try to confirm that the noise is from the alternator. Remove the alternator belt and try spinning the alternator by hand. Look for noise and play on the alternator shaft. Then start the car for a while (after switching off all the electrical load) and see if the noise has disappeared. Check any idler pulley as well. When you have confirmed that alternator is the source of noise, remove the alternator and replace the bearing. It's quite an easy fix. Two alternator bearing costs about a thousand rupees.

Thanks for your input! The ADC has a clock rate of 16MHz. Default sampling rate is clock rate divided by prescale set to 128. That means I have a default sampling rate of 125kHz. If I'm revving up to 10,000 RPM, all what I need to measure happens 167Hz. (Ignition signal will be at 83.5Hz @ 10,000RPM). At least on paper, Arduino is well above the required Nyquist rate. 16MHz may become insufficient to work with the bunch of sensors that I'm planning to hook up. But RPM and dwell angle could be done at this rate. I was thinking of using a shielded wire with the shield grounded to the chassis and Arduino ground. Using an optocoupler in parallel with the LED would help with noise. Delay in switching the optocoupler is a concern here. Regarding the circuit that I'm trying to replicate, I'm clueless of what I should get from the winding around the HT lead. Is it induced EMF? Change in capacitance? I still can't understand how that part of the circuit works. Please explain if you can understand what the wire is supposed to pickup. (After using this setup for some time, the LEDs that had a faint glow suddenly stayed on at full brightness. The MOSFET was shorted drain to source. Used another one and in no time it was also shorted. These components must be bad. So I'm looking for an alternative to 2N700)

Timing light My first attempt was to wrap a few turns of wire around a spark plug HT lead and plot the analog signal using the Auduino. It produced a very noisy signal with some large spikes. It was too noisy to think about filtering and processing further. Second attempt was to build a stand alone timing light. This circuit is from the internet. Source http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/timinglight.html Following many reports of success on the internet, I built this exact one. But the leds had only a faint glow. By no means sufficient to use as a timing light. Don't know what I did wrong. Reducing the 10 ohms resistor did not make any difference in the brightness either. I want to make sure the components I used are working and try again. This sounds like a good starting point for me. If I can get this to work, I can feed the PD across the LED as an analog signal to the Arduino to get started with the tachometer and dwell angle.

Greetings gentlemen, I just serviced the distributor of my project A72 and wanted to check and adjust the ignition advance curve. At minimum I needed a timing light and a dwell angle meter. As expected, decent tools are expensive. So, here I am looking for a cost effective solution to buying a bunch of speciality tools. Since Arduinos are (relatively) cheap, have sufficient processing power, and has a lot of sensors, I'm trying to make some car diagnostic kit based on Arduino. Disclaimer- With global supply chains down, it will be some time before there is any significant progress in making this. For the time being I'm using this as a note to self and thinking out loud with the hope that experienced AL members would help me realize this project. Intended use I'm building it to use on my 1970's Lancer project car. The goal is to make a cost effective, easy to build, and reliable (for personal use) toolkit for cars of the era with similar technology. This will include most petrol cars with distributor driven ignition system. Once this takes off, I will make everything free and open source for anyone to replicate. Requirements 1. Timing light 2. Tachometer 3. Dwell angle meter 4. Vacuum gauge 5. Exhaust gas analyzer a la emissions test 6. Lambda sensor 7. Compression tester Construction Using Arduino as the brains of the toolkit, peripherals like led light, induction clamp, pressure sensors and gas sensors will be hooked up to it depending on the scenario. It will be connected to a computer over serial where all the input can be displayed. Real time data will be displayed with options to record, analyze, manipulate and share data with Matlab. 1. Timing light A ferrite core with a few windings is placed on the first high tension lead. After monitoring the behavior of the induced voltage with the serial plotter, mathematically determine when to fire the LED to give accurate timing. Consider any delays in the setup and hard code the lines to fire the LED at the correct time. Problems- High induced voltage can fry the arduino. How to control a high wattage LED to give the correct strobe frequency? How fast can the arduino respond? How to address any delays? 2. Tachometer Use the same input as for the timing light. Find the frequency high tension lead is fired. RPM is twice that. Problems- same as above. How to cancel noise from other HT leads? 3. Dwell angle meter A crocodile clip on the contact points with a large resistor in series could pickup the duration the contacts closes. Together with RPM the duty cycle can be calculated. Mathematically determine the dwell angle from the duty cycle. Problems- Will the capacitor mess with it? Protection from any voltage spikes during opening and closing? 4. Vacuum gauge Sensors are pretty cheap. Adapt it to plug in to a vacuum hose. Problems- Range, accuracy and sensitivity? will it respond quickly as analog ones to give real time data? 5. Exhaust gas analyzer Carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon sensors are available. SL emissions tests look only for those two. Temperature and nitrous oxide testing can be added. Problems- Range, accuracy and sensitivity? (will not give real time data because of the design of these sensors. That's alright.) 6. Lambda sensor These wideband oxygen sensors are available off the shelf. problems- Cost. Reliability, accuracy and range. 7. Compression tester Tiny pressure transducers are cheaply available. Can drill out old spark plugs, mount the transducer and seal it. Can make 4 and run simultaneous compression tests on all 4 cylinders. problems- Range, accuracy and precision. Will data be real time? at least all four in sync with time?

Since he is following a course, I believe a newer car would be more suitable. Condemned cars like @Twin Turbo suggested. True that you can buy more mechanic friendly older cars much cheaper. But he won't have much electronics to practice. Since he is looking for a career in motor mechanics, some newer car with today's technology would serve him well. Learning motor mechanics today with a century old car would be a waste IMO. Unless he is looking to cater for a niche market like classic cars, he'll be better off with practicing on a fairly new vehicle. I wish him all the best and hope he becomes a knowledgeable and skillful technician!

"Starting a car can be easy or hard. It just depends on how you go about with it!" Be like Dora Doright. Courtesy of Classic General Motors Rochester Carburetor Division. You're welcome.