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varotone last won the day on April 30

varotone had the most liked content!

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  1. varotone

    Project A72V

    Distributor rebuild I wanted to do some preemptive maintenance on the distributor even if it was working fine. Just to check and adjust the contacts gap, check the capacitor, and lubricate the shaft. I ended up removing the distributor and dissembling it. These were the problems 1.contact gap was too small 2. Contact electrodes are pitted and covered in carbon 3. Screws holding the contacts had stripped heads. Doesn't tight enough. 4. Capacitor was good. 5. Vacuum advance canister had a damaged diaphragm. Doesn't work anymore. (Initially the vacuum line in the carb was also blocked. After the carb rebuild, I was aware of this problem. Temporary fixed by plugging the vacuum hose) 6. Mechanical advance mechanism was probably never lubricated enough. It was not freely moving. 7. Oil seal in the distributor shaft was leaking a little. 8. Shaft and bushes were in good order. Wear was within tolerance limits. Here are pics when I took it apar Following maintenance was done 1. Fully dissembling and thorough cleaning. The centrifugal advance was very tight. Had to clamp down to the bench and remove with vice grips. It is ment to spinn freely! 2. Replaced contacts and capacitor as preemptive maintenance. 3. Replaced the oil seal. 4. Shaft has a spiral grove that helps to draw engine oil up the shaft and lubricate when the engine is running. Thoroughly cleaned the grove. 5. Replacement vacuum advance canister was available. Fixed it and connected the vacuum hose from the carb. 6. Set the static timing when fixing the distributor 7. Adjusted the contacts gap. Spec is 0.45-0.55mm. I set to 0.50mm with a feeler gauge. 8. Checked the dynamic timing with my DIY timing light. I can't verify that dynamic timing due to the lack of a RPM sensor. I'm sure that the centrifugal advance works because of the advancing timing when revving up. Applying suction to the vacuum line further advances the timing. So, the vacuum advance also works.
  2. varotone

    Project A72V

    Spare parts prices are on a whole new level! Do shop around. I was quoted Rs. 800 for a rotor. A few weeks later I bought it from the same shop for Rs. 350. How was the technician at Kaduwela? @The Don shared contact details of a carb mech. in Piliyandala. Thankfully I didn't need to go to him.
  3. varotone

    Project A72V

    1. I bought it from [email protected]@ motors, Panchikawatta. 2. The brand that I bought is "Keyster". There were a few other brands also. They didn't have the other brands fitting my carb. This was my very first attempt at rebuilding a carb. So, I don't have any baseline to say how good or bad the kit is. Thankfully everything fit well. gaskets and all. (Also I bought this kit amidst the COVID lockdown. Didn't even bother to shop around or look at other brands. I just grabbed the first kit that fits my carb and hoped for the best) 3. Carb kits are readily available. I had to go to a few places to find one that fits mine. In addition to the carb kit I bought a gasket paper, again readily available. My kit came with everything that I needed. So, I didn't have to shop for other bits like jets, needles and stuff. I suspect that such parts are also available to be purchased individually. Glad that I could help. Thanks for the wishes. Best of luck with your project!
  4. I beg to differ. While most "popular" models are inflated at present, decent, fun (little old) cars go for reasonably low prices. I don't see a problem with someone buying a second/unnecessary car when prices are low and some are in dire need for cash. Actually, IF I had a premio/alion I would sell it with a fat profit and buy a couple of fun cars, mod them and even have more cash to spare. I get to keep a couple of fun cars, some spare cash and would help a cash strapped petrolhead desperate to sell off his ride.
  5. The video had me laughing for quite some time. Presenter : let it warm up @Hoonigan: I drove it here. It's already warm. P: I mean me! H: ... P: How do you drive this comfortably? H: You don't ... P: your side mirrors are kinda useless H: they are completely useless. I love this unapologetic attitude.
  6. Rust remover that I used is called "Rust remover 125" from Akzo Nobel. You have to sand the surface first, apply rust remover and scrub with a wire brush. Wash it off with water and apply primer as soon as it dries before corrosion starts again. Good for getting rust out of nooks and crannies. Multilac has a rust converter which doesn't need to be washed off afterwards. Little hard to come by.
  7. Someone who owns a couple of classics talked me out of using undercoat. He said that this stuff is supposed to go on brand new cars before being driving out. Surface should be 100% rust free for it to properly work. He had once used it on a resto. According to him, surface looked rust free, but it was rusting from inside. Due to the tacky texture of the undercoat, it doesn't come off in flakes as regular paint when the it is rusting. Once a large enough area is rusted the whole thing falls down. Like a whole floor plate would fall off! Even when it falls off, the painted surface looks good with no signs of corrosion. This is what he said. I've not seen this happen. His story was scary enough. I've gone with two part marine paint.
  8. Here's to a great project Did it already change colors or is it the lighting? You replaced radiator, differential, brakes and a whole bunch of stuff for 78k? I've seen 4DR reconditioned parts go for insanely high prices.
  9. Using a lower pressure rated cap will cause the coolant to boil and evaporate. Quite possible that the wrong spec cap is the cause. Just keep an eye on the coolant level for some time just to be sure that there are no leaks under pressure. when you the system is pressurized properly, some leaks that did not show up at low pressure may show up. (None will be there if you did a proper job in the first place. But it seems like you didn'tšŸ˜¬) Top off the lost volume with the same coolant. Happy motoring!
  10. Check the temperature of engine block and coolant hose with a IR thermometer just to make sure. Also check for visible leaks when the engine is hot
  11. Did you replace the radiator cap with a quality product matching your pressure spec? Does it produce white smoke? Steam? Funny smelling exhaust? Is oil fouled with coolant? Do you see air bubbling in the radiator? Tricky to check because it may appear only when the engine is in operating temperature when poor quality head gasket is used or improperly fitted. Any loss of power? Hesitancy? Do a compression test and leak down test of you are suspecting head gasket failure.
  12. Hooniyan rhythms with Thomian. Without [ ] this might be in the same vein as Thomian. It sounds awfully similar to hooniyam - black magic. May be a "kattadiya" looking for free advertising šŸ˜…
  13. In the video it looked liked the wagonR is on two wheels when it took the turn. I feel like it might topple over if it didn't collide. (May be the wide angle CCTV distorts the image. But other vehicles didn't look like about to topple.) It also appears he didn't slow down. Just cuts in to the byroad. Subi driver might not have thought that this wagonR will make a sharp turn at that speed. (I'm not trying to justify the subi driver in anyway)
  14. This is a rollercoaster of a thread! Started with a guy looking for something that can navigate a corner at 30kmph without the passengers (without seatbelts?) sliding across. One dude suggested a Forester @everyf4 will be hitting apexes in perfect racing lines! Overkill. But my heart says go for it before someone talks you in to buying a 141! The inner pragmatist in me suggests you test drive a decent sedan. Pretty much any sedan has significantly less body roll than the every. A wagon such as a fielder offers decent body roll with space. Give it a test drive.
  15. I wish the non essential vehicle imports (cars, luxury vehicles, motorcycles) would stop for a couple of years, while still permitting commercial/special purpose ones like decent busses, panel vans, prime movers, ambulance and such. With election around the corner and a few new cronies waiting impatiently to grab a permit, I doubt that anything would change. They might say a convoy of latest Jeep's is essential for them to get to their electorate to "serve" the voters. Government servants entitled for a permit haven't changed their minds either. Personally I think now is not the best time to clamp down on non roadworthy vehicles (given the economic hardships people face now). But a good time to prevent substandard imports. (Hacked to death Japanese recons and substandard Indian bn ones). There was a hint of improvement in public transport with reserving train tickets and changing the schedule based on demand. CTB busses dedicated to offices.. it failed miserably. A step in the right direction nevertheless. Also, rather than trying to limit the drain of foreign exchange for vehicles during the immediate future, we should look in to other ways of preserving foreign exchange. We will be importing vehicles for the foreseeable future. Halting it for one year is a temporary fix. A sustainable method of preventing foreign exchange drain would be to limit imports of food, milk, fruits, clothing. Sure we may not be able to grow wheat here successfully. But we can find an alternative that we can grow here. Imported onions, potato, apples, mandarins and milk powder can stop. We can find suitable alternative food sources. It's not like we will die without wheat flour bread and milk. Intelligent omnivores animals like us can adapt much better. Permanently hanging our food habits will cumulatively save more than a temporary ban on importing vehicles for an year. Or else we are back at square one after one year. As a country, If we are not ready to give up some creature comforts, we better work out a method to bring down shit loads of FE through services sector. (I'm no economics expert. All this might be a pipe dream šŸ˜‚)
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