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varotone last won the day on October 14

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About varotone

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  1. varotone

    Project A72V

    I want to fix the rusted out area in front of the dashboard before re-fixing the dashboard. Got down a tinkerer and he said the fenders and windshield may need to be removed to get access to the area. So this is not simple as it sounds and I think about expediting the project and doing all the tinkering and painting at this point. Please comment on how much would it cost for tinkering and painting of the whole car. I understand that the cost depends on the condition of my car, but I'm clueless about the cost of painting and tinkering. So please give me an estimate for how much I should expect to pay. My plan is to do hire a tinkerer and repair the rust and do the tinkering at home. I'm not going to get it done at some fancy garage. But I prefer to use a fancy painting booth for painting. UPDATE I was quoted Rs. 180,000 for the tinkering only including materials.
  2. varotone

    Project A72V

    Thank you very much for the help. Here's a picture of the alternator. It has 3 wires. One thick wire (2mm, disconnect in the photo) for Battery+. Other two are thin (0.5mm) wires via a connector. Difficult to disconnect the connector in a hurry. I'll try it tomorrow and check where the wires go to. I'm fairly certain that the alternator has been replaced with one with a built-in voltage regulator. The free wires must be for the voltage regulator which is obsolete now. These wires are right next to the alternator long enough to reach the right side shock absorber mounts. The two thin wires connected must be for battery sensor currently for stator coils and another for battery indicator on the dashboard. I certainly need a qualified auto electrician. But looking at the quality of the electrical repairs done on this, I'm having second thoughts about them. I'm taking my time and fixing the wiring properly by soldering the splices and using insulation tubing and replacing damaged wires. I'm not sure if the mechanics would do it up to my expectations. Besides, the experts here at AL are very helpful and I may be able to do it without a mechanic­čśÇ.
  3. varotone

    Project A72V

    HELP NEEDED 1. Did this car come with a voltage regulator? If yes, where was it mounted? 2. This is a photo of what I think the oil pressure sensor. Am I correct? If not where do I find the oil pressure sensor? 3. I'm seeing 3 faily thick (3mm) wires without any connections. It was just dangling from the wire loom. Can anybody identify what these are for? I couldn't find where these lead to. Thanks in advance for your help.
  4. The Capri in your banner looks stunning! Any more photos of her?

    1. Hoonigan


      Thank you :) I have an entire build log from beginning to end here in Autolanka. Search for "Project Capri" and you should be able to find the thread

  5. varotone

    Project A72V

    Thanks for the input gentlemen. Osram nightbreakers looks awesome from the photos. Browsed through the products and found all of them are in the 5000-6000K color temperature. The bluish light will not give the age appropriate looks for the car. Something more towards red in the spectrum (around 3000K color temperature) would be more suitable. Wire and relay upgrade kit costs around RS. 2000. So, I'm planning on buying one. I do want a perfect restoration without cutting corners. For now I'll fix the same old sealed beam halogens wired through the relay. When money fairy visits me again I'll upgrade to a LED/Xenon one. Investing on a conversation kit would be well worth the money in the long run. I was referring to the reddish, filament bulb like color when I said red color bulbs. The color is also called warm but in fact it is a cooler color because it corresponds to black body radiation at 3000K. The bluish ones like the night breakers corresponds to 6000K. A much warmer back body. I'm sorry if I caused some confusion by calling a color 'cool'. (Excuse the geek in me ­čĄô) I'm pretty sure Sri Lanka doesn't regulate the color temperature of the headlights. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
  6. varotone

    Project A72V

    ADVICE NEEDED After a thorough inspection, my conclusion is that this particular car did not have a factory fitted headlight relay. (I find it difficult to believe, but still, I'm convinced that the wiring was not hacked to that extent). I plan to fit one of those "headlights upgrade wiring kit" made for LED/Halogen ones and fix the existing sealed beam ones for now. The plan is to upgrade to a cooler color LED or halogens later to keep the vintage appearance and easy serviceability later after the tinkering and painting. Appreciate the input from the AL "Light fetish club" @tiv @PreseaLover´╗┐ @Magnum before I go ahead with the purchase and modifications.
  7. varotone

    Project A72V

    Was it one relay for both high beams and another for both low beams? The wires supplying the headlights itself is too thin IMO. So, even if there was a relay in the dash, there would be a significant voltage drop at the connector for headlight. A relay right behind the headlights would work. The wiring for headlights doesn't look like it was hacked. I still wonder if this particular car didn't have a relay. Bulbs are consumables. So I'll have to replace them at some point when they are blown. Sealed beams are old and may be difficult to find in the future. A cooler (reddish) LED would have the vintage appearance while being easy to find spares for. I'm not thinking about lights so bright that blind the on coming traffic. Hope the cops won't be bothered.
  8. varotone

    Project A72V

    HELP NEEDED The headlight (both the low and high beam) pulls power directly from the fuse box. Both are wired with a 20 SAE wire without a relay. A pair of 50W bubs exceeds the maximum rated current (8 A) when wired this way. This worries me. Besides, the schematics in the Haynes manual shows wiring through a relay. Can anyone please tell how was it wired originally? (Wiring schematics given in the Haynes manual differs a little from what is in my car. So, I can't follow the manual to the letter. I'm currently drawing the schematics as found in my car) Afterthought Are there kits to replace the sealed beam headlight with an LED one? Switching to LED would pull lesser power.
  9. varotone

    Project A72V

    Thanks for the detailed and quick reply! Not when I bought the car. It used to stall when I kept the engine on idle and switched on the AC. Now the engine revs up a little when AC is on and the car no longer stalls.
  10. varotone

    Project A72V

    UPDATES Finally managed to restore the switch assembly on the steering wheel. Rear wire harness was restored. Had to replace the wires to the door switches. Switches themselves were working. Took longer than expected to undo all the thoughtless butchering by the previous owner. Next up is the front wiring. HELP NEEDED Can anybody identify what this is? It has two tubes and two wires connected.
  11. varotone

    Project A72V

    UPDATES Took apart the steering wheel and tried to fix the butchered wiring. Managed to get the switches working except for the PASS switch. So, I'm thinking about buying the whole switch stalk assembly. Shopping list: 1. Hazard light relay 2. Connector for hazard light relay 3. Headlight relay 4. Connector for headlight relay 5. Switch stalk assembly Appreciate if you could tell me where to find these and the approximate cost. There's a light named DOOR in the dash. But the slot for the bulb is sealed from outside. There are switches in the door jambs. But the wires are missing. EDIT: Looked around for the switch assembly. Came across 2 reconditioned ones. None of them had all the switches functional. So don't buy it. Next would be to look in panchi or delkanda.
  12. varotone

    Project A72V

    The manual describes some features like 'hold speed function' a rudimentary cruise control, seat belt warning chime, high speed warning chime, EGR, shock absorbing buffer attachments, and door open light. Are these features available in this particular one? YOM 1983 JDM version. Lookslike the Japanese automotive technology had achieved everything in that era (looks like today's cars just throwed in a bunch of electronics to just complicate an already existing, simple setup)
  13. varotone

    Project A72V

    A very big thank you to @Davy for buying a Haynes manual for me. When I mentioned that I want to buy a workshop manual, he was very helpful in dropping me a PM about this manual being up for sale and offered to buy it for me. He even said that I can pay after I had received it! Davy is by far the most helpful person that I have met online. Sir, I don't know how to thank you enough for this favor. It's an unused Haynes manual. If anyone needs a photo copy, drop me a PM.
  14. varotone

    Project A72V

    UPDATES Our garages are notorious for cutting the wiring just because they are too lazy to properly remove them. Mine has also suffered the same damage. Instead of buying a reconditioned harness, I decided to restore it myself. I spliced one connection today. Here's the steps briefly. 1. Clean the area. You'll see the color coded wires, any damages well, and helps the solder and insulation tapes to stick well. 2. Figure out which wires go where. Note it down in a paper or label the wires with masking tape 3. Cut the frayed ends and strip the insulation. 4. Tin the wire ends. (Tinning means to coat the wire with soldering lead) 5. Slip in a piece of heat shrink tubing 6. Solder the ends. 7. Cover the splice with the heat shrink tubing. Heat it up. 8. Wra the wires with insulation tape. Remember this insulation tape is not actually meant to insulate the wires. The heat shrink sleeve should do the insulation. Wrap the insulation tape to keep the wires organized and tidy. 9. Check the resistance across the splice and for short circuits with nearby wires. Here's how the damage before repair. This is the result
  15. varotone

    Project A72V

    Some electronics shops have new terminals. But they don't fit mine. They look flimsy too. If I'm buying them, I'll have to get both male and female ones. Thanks for the info. I'll look at Japanese reconditioned parts shops. I'm not at all worried about the milage. It would be nice to know how many times the car could have traveled back and forth to the moon!­čśÇ