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varotone last won the day on April 30

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  1. Here's to a great project Did it already change colors or is it the lighting? You replaced radiator, differential, brakes and a whole bunch of stuff for 78k? I've seen 4DR reconditioned parts go for insanely high prices.
  2. Using a lower pressure rated cap will cause the coolant to boil and evaporate. Quite possible that the wrong spec cap is the cause. Just keep an eye on the coolant level for some time just to be sure that there are no leaks under pressure. when you the system is pressurized properly, some leaks that did not show up at low pressure may show up. (None will be there if you did a proper job in the first place. But it seems like you didn'tšŸ˜¬) Top off the lost volume with the same coolant. Happy motoring!
  3. Check the temperature of engine block and coolant hose with a IR thermometer just to make sure. Also check for visible leaks when the engine is hot
  4. Did you replace the radiator cap with a quality product matching your pressure spec? Does it produce white smoke? Steam? Funny smelling exhaust? Is oil fouled with coolant? Do you see air bubbling in the radiator? Tricky to check because it may appear only when the engine is in operating temperature when poor quality head gasket is used or improperly fitted. Any loss of power? Hesitancy? Do a compression test and leak down test of you are suspecting head gasket failure.
  5. Hooniyan rhythms with Thomian. Without [ ] this might be in the same vein as Thomian. It sounds awfully similar to hooniyam - black magic. May be a "kattadiya" looking for free advertising šŸ˜…
  6. In the video it looked liked the wagonR is on two wheels when it took the turn. I feel like it might topple over if it didn't collide. (May be the wide angle CCTV distorts the image. But other vehicles didn't look like about to topple.) It also appears he didn't slow down. Just cuts in to the byroad. Subi driver might not have thought that this wagonR will make a sharp turn at that speed. (I'm not trying to justify the subi driver in anyway)
  7. This is a rollercoaster of a thread! Started with a guy looking for something that can navigate a corner at 30kmph without the passengers (without seatbelts?) sliding across. One dude suggested a Forester @everyf4 will be hitting apexes in perfect racing lines! Overkill. But my heart says go for it before someone talks you in to buying a 141! The inner pragmatist in me suggests you test drive a decent sedan. Pretty much any sedan has significantly less body roll than the every. A wagon such as a fielder offers decent body roll with space. Give it a test drive.
  8. I wish the non essential vehicle imports (cars, luxury vehicles, motorcycles) would stop for a couple of years, while still permitting commercial/special purpose ones like decent busses, panel vans, prime movers, ambulance and such. With election around the corner and a few new cronies waiting impatiently to grab a permit, I doubt that anything would change. They might say a convoy of latest Jeep's is essential for them to get to their electorate to "serve" the voters. Government servants entitled for a permit haven't changed their minds either. Personally I think now is not the best time to clamp down on non roadworthy vehicles (given the economic hardships people face now). But a good time to prevent substandard imports. (Hacked to death Japanese recons and substandard Indian bn ones). There was a hint of improvement in public transport with reserving train tickets and changing the schedule based on demand. CTB busses dedicated to offices.. it failed miserably. A step in the right direction nevertheless. Also, rather than trying to limit the drain of foreign exchange for vehicles during the immediate future, we should look in to other ways of preserving foreign exchange. We will be importing vehicles for the foreseeable future. Halting it for one year is a temporary fix. A sustainable method of preventing foreign exchange drain would be to limit imports of food, milk, fruits, clothing. Sure we may not be able to grow wheat here successfully. But we can find an alternative that we can grow here. Imported onions, potato, apples, mandarins and milk powder can stop. We can find suitable alternative food sources. It's not like we will die without wheat flour bread and milk. Intelligent omnivores animals like us can adapt much better. Permanently hanging our food habits will cumulatively save more than a temporary ban on importing vehicles for an year. Or else we are back at square one after one year. As a country, If we are not ready to give up some creature comforts, we better work out a method to bring down shit loads of FE through services sector. (I'm no economics expert. All this might be a pipe dream šŸ˜‚)
  9. Shouldn't this be the very reason why R&D is required? If they do some solid R&D on figuring out the tech, minimizing the butchering, testing the integrity of the structure and the safety after the conversion, I believe there's a market opportunity for such a business. If electric is the future of cars, and manufactures stop making ICE consumables (or gasoline for vehicles) such conversions should take off. Also I don't believe that they should start converting classics to EV. (Other than for building up the hype) Focusing on newer common vehicles would make much sense. If they were really successful, they could sell such technology back to the car manufacturer. Where the manufacturer can start making EVs of their existing ICE models with quick turnaround time. (It's not clear what will happen to classics when proposed phasing out of ICE vehicles comes in to effect in EU and elsewhere. I'm hopeful that they will be made an exception with higher taxes than EVs and stringent regulation on driving)
  10. Nature is healing! AL is healing! Teg project has an update! The Dattos have reproduced to make a fleet of them! What a time to be alive!:action-smiley-035:

  11. Made some progress! Finally managed to get the timing light working. LEDs don't light up at full brightness. Tried to increase the brightness by adding a transistor to operate in saturation and cutoff regions alternatively. That gave some issues with light staying on for too long. Finally attached the LEDs to a long handle so that it can be moved closer to the timing marks to illuminate well. It's working. Added a optotransistor in series with the LED and fed a signal wave to the Arduino. Now that the arduino is galvanically isolated from the noisy bits of the circuit, signal to noise was good enough. For the time being, RPM is printed to serial. Will add a LCD after the dwell angle is done. I documented this on instructables. https://www.instructables.com/id/Timing-Light-and-Tachometer-With-Arduino
  12. Damage due to a peacock crashing the expressway was covered once. I don't see why rats are an exception. If you are an unfortunate victim of rat damage, please update on what happened with the claim. It would be nice to know.
  13. I can't wrap my head around how one end of a wire can create a voltage from the induced EMF. If it actually works on picking up EMF like a transformer, wrapping copper coil around an toroidal transformer core and placing it around the HT lead should give a strong signal minimizing noise. I'll have to try that. Gate-source voltage for 2N7000 is 20V. Drain current is 200mA. Threshold voltage is 0.8-3.0V. I thought of replacing it with IRF830AS. Gate-source voltage 30. Drain current 5A. Threshold voltage 2-5V. And replace the zener with 12V 1watt. IRF830AS is a beefy package with a heatsink. It might withstand some spikes. I can't simulate the circuit without knowing the induced voltage. I have to go with trial and error.
  14. First try to confirm that the noise is from the alternator. Remove the alternator belt and try spinning the alternator by hand. Look for noise and play on the alternator shaft. Then start the car for a while (after switching off all the electrical load) and see if the noise has disappeared. Check any idler pulley as well. When you have confirmed that alternator is the source of noise, remove the alternator and replace the bearing. It's quite an easy fix. Two alternator bearing costs about a thousand rupees.
  15. Thanks for your input! The ADC has a clock rate of 16MHz. Default sampling rate is clock rate divided by prescale set to 128. That means I have a default sampling rate of 125kHz. If I'm revving up to 10,000 RPM, all what I need to measure happens 167Hz. (Ignition signal will be at 83.5Hz @ 10,000RPM). At least on paper, Arduino is well above the required Nyquist rate. 16MHz may become insufficient to work with the bunch of sensors that I'm planning to hook up. But RPM and dwell angle could be done at this rate. I was thinking of using a shielded wire with the shield grounded to the chassis and Arduino ground. Using an optocoupler in parallel with the LED would help with noise. Delay in switching the optocoupler is a concern here. Regarding the circuit that I'm trying to replicate, I'm clueless of what I should get from the winding around the HT lead. Is it induced EMF? Change in capacitance? I still can't understand how that part of the circuit works. Please explain if you can understand what the wire is supposed to pickup. (After using this setup for some time, the LEDs that had a faint glow suddenly stayed on at full brightness. The MOSFET was shorted drain to source. Used another one and in no time it was also shorted. These components must be bad. So I'm looking for an alternative to 2N700)
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