Premio

Battery health can be checked only using battery tester which shows voltage drop with load! Simple test i will tell you, just take a battery which is in discharged condition, now voltage is surely below 12V, by good battery or a charger, connect (-) to (-) and tooch (+) terminals for few minutes. Then check the voltage,it will shiw you voltage above 12V. Will this be able to perform? Voltage is only an indication. Power is multipication of Ampere×Voltage. Fullt charged battery normally 13.2V recemond by battery makers.It is based on 6 cell ×2.2V =13.2V. Charging indicator is dissapered in higher rpm, and comes back in low rpm again.At low rmp, inducing voltage is same, the variable is current, so when you getting low current, the rest required part draining from battery, so system voltage slightly dropping, charging indicator will appears. When acceleration, more current produced,voltage increased , lamp dissapered. When the battery charge low, it needs constant charging, charging needs power,it gives by engine, if demand more, need higher charging rate. Normally alrernator charging is not so smooth, it is not pure sine wave rectification. Simply, what i mean to say is just clear the doubt, start from easy way, easiest is 1) check battery health(by meter,which shows good/bad by loading) 2) if it shows bad, fit battery temporary and see the light indication going off 3) if it goes off,battery! If not check alternator . I mention about fuel consumption, alternator overloading by my personal experience. I just tried to give a clue.

Once you clear the boubt about the battery you can gi forward to check the alternator. When alternator rewinding, they are just using duplicate wires,sometimes not the proper gauge,not equal number of turns. That will cause dropping inducing voltage,dropping the output. After rewinding the alternator side changed,accordingly the regulator should change. Always original is better,trouble free,because we di not have much details how your indication system sensing. Best is as soon as possible clear doubt about battery and go to trouble shoot alternator.

Car battery is charged by alternator. If your battery is weak, more charging required. So alternator will be running under high load than normal. Alternator is getting power by the engine. Finally engine need to do little extra work. So the engine need little extra fuel. Also keep in your mund, at this time alternator also getting overload. So it is affecting alternator too. Better to change the battery always early,it can save your fuel,alternator and your valuable time too.(in case if you have Auto gear car,you have to change the battery if it stopped on the way)

It is common A/C troubles in new models. All clutch less type. Check whether cooling improving when rpm increasing? If so compressors cooling capacity reduced. Do it in idle.

As you mentioned, it can be blockage of air filter too, try to remove the cabin air filter and run the AC. Keep fresh air option off. If it improved, then the problem is clogged cabin air filter.Also feel the air flow, check whether it is incresing manually, sometimes blowers can fail too. Then check the running speed of AC condenser cooling fan in engine compartment. Check whether it is running in normal speed or reduced speed. Sometimes it can run quite slow speed and after some time it will burn out. Try to do some checks yourself , it can surely reduce repair cost and timing.

This problem is common in allion and premio 260. These compressors are clutch less type. System liading and unliading happening by refregirant system. Since you have run 120k, definetely compressor need renewal. When idle run, in park position,under sun light, check cooling, definetely you will feel uncomfortable, then slightly increase rpm to 1200 or slightly above,you will feel difference. Compressor performance deteriorating, it is difficult to overhaul the compressor and not si sure it's performance after doung so. Best option is to change the compressor when it is about to fail. Still you can use this. No need any repair. AC system trouble codes are common in these models. Use the compressor as long as you can & change whenever you feel not enough cooling or when started running noisy. Good luck.

First of all you simply visit a battery shop. They have meter to check battery by loading it shows the battery health. Green zone and red zone. It is available in many service stations too. If it shows battery bad condition, just request them to fit a battery and check whether your battery indicator still on! If it has dissapered, your battery is need renewal. Green light indication shows electrolyte level. It can't say anything about battery cell condition. Another thing you mentioned, it is dissapered in higher rpm, and comes back in low rpm again. Most probably your battery condition deteriorating! Time to change battery. It will cause to incresing fuel consumption too!

The CVT gearbox has started to fail on several of these cars including the Axio which features the same gearbox and engine combination. The issue seems to stem from the fact that Toyota states a 100,000km duration for the CVT gearbox oil change, and sticking to this with the car being used mainly in traffic seems to be suicidal. To avoid the gearbox failing the best is to do the oil change every 50-60,000km and then reduce the duration even further as the car ages in mileage. The gearbox failure seems to be in two stages, one where the gearbox will not change which can be repaired, and the next where not attending to this problem in time causing a belt failure.

Only one thing said during throttle body cleaning, injectors closing bit slow! But he said it's not a problem. What is OCV filter? Is it near MAF sensor?

Is your problem gears slipping? Did you try the vehicle to maintain the position in gear in a slop in same acceleration(rpm), if the car started moving backward in the slop means gears slipping. Did you check the gear box cintrol module, that failed in toyota RAV4 , 2002 model. It is better to go for recondition gear box than repairing. But since cost too high. Better to take chance by repairing. But better to double check the place you are going to repair and post the updates.

Toyota premio 260(2010 model)(1500cc, 52K km) idle rpm started dropping , noted high vibration during that time and again reaching normal rpm(600). This happens slow acceleration after running the vehicle in constant speed,vehicle use to accelerate jurky. This doesn't happen often. Fuel tank used to maintain always above 25% always, 95 octain.Engine never stopped and no abnormal sounds.Smooth . Due to this trouble all 4 spark plugs changed.Air filter changed.but nothing changed. Fuel consumption in traffic with AC maximum 9km/L . Long trips 13~14km/L max. Highway 15~16km/L with slow acceleration Average 80km/h. Injector(worth fuel system) cleaner added and nothing changed. Petrol filter with pump removed and cleaned using petrol.Some mud removed from net type filter. After fitting back idle rpm slightly increased and respond to AC cutting in/out increased, after some time rpm started dropping and situation became worst,rpm dropped to 450 , but itself picking up to 600,respond to demand inproved. Then throttle body cleaned and trip computer was resetting done by a professional. Everything cam back to normal. City fuel consumption 13km/L (never seen before) with A/C, Highways 20~21km/l average speed 80km. After few days fuel consumption dropped to 9 km/l in city and highway 14km/L. RPM started dropping as before again in idle. But not feeling jurky acceleration! The doubt i have is fuel filter. Have anyone face clogging of petrol filter? Is it need changing after 7-8 years usage? Thai filter eliment and pump available for Rs. 4750/=, have anyone used this. There is no problem in injectors and electrical system.Air filter also in good condition. Can petrol filter create such condition ? Do Share your experience if you have gone through similar problem !

Thank you for the information. I will check bumper mounts.

Looks like only bumper stopper broken.Can't see any oil leaks. When compress it stops immediately. Bit confused about pirelli and Michelin Mx2 as prices are almost equal . As you said pirelli side walls harder than michelin. Many peoples thinking how the tyre can give good milage with thinner side wall, but it will increase comfortability for sure by thin side wall.

Thank you for your reply. Michelin tyres are too soft and even compress by hand. I had a doubt about too soft side walls,and side wall failure. That is the reason to do a post with prices for comparison. I decided to gi for Michelin, top in safety wise and comfortable. I found it is cheapest in a Malay Street tyre shop. Continential tyre which i use is "Engineered in Germany" written. It's 'Conti eco contact3'. It's my rear shock failure. When i shake vehicle,i can hear 'squeeking' sound. Also noticed one plasric cylinder shape thing fallen,probably which connected to shock bumpers. Following photo shows the cylindrical thing fallen .

There is a good decent place in කොස්වත්ත town. He is doing good job and charges are reasonable. Mahawatta Rd, කොස්වත්ත , next to Ansu Lanka https://goo.gl/maps/mFxJ86QNxpz