Insedious
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Posts posted by Insedious
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With android head unit market has made huge strides since I last posted the above question, was able to find a head unit which does the following.
1. No cutting of wires
2. The Rockford Amplifier should work
3. The Steering wheel audio controls must work
4. Bluetooth hands free usage
5. Android auto/Apple car playThe head unit itself was selected after much research on android head units in the market and how they connect to car. It also comes with a CANBUS adapter which connects directly to the two connectors of the stock CD changer. Since the car didn't have the handsfree switches on the steering, I also got it down, but please note that it also requires the replacement of the hands free harness inside the steering wheel. This means you have to remove the steering airbag and as always, the M
itsubishi workshop manual is your friend but in general I don't recommend playing around with the airbags.
All in all everything works fine now. Here are some nice features1. Wireless Car Play
2. Android 10 OS
3. Built in DSP/Pre Amp
4. Reverse Camera direct wiring.
The parts involved are as below.The head unit - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001227274176.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7e234c4dYu6JyO
Handfree Switch set - P# 8750A247
Handsfree Harness - P# 4400A465Hope this helps anyone who also wants to try the same.
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The FB 15 Super saloon has climate control
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On 3/5/2020 at 10:24 AM, Klord said:
Yesterday when Im going back home, I noticed that left side rear tire is completely flat. Unfortunately, I have already driven 2-3 kms before realizing the situation. Anyhow, as a result I ended up stranded nowhere deep in Neluwa at around 9 PM which was a very frustrating situation. The bloody tire repair kit also did not work (the puncture seem to be too large so air escaped through the hole), so I had to park the car in a strangers home and find my way back home which was 25km away.
Enough ranting! I have to somehow fix the tire. Car has already clocked 13k Kms within 5 months of purchase as I travel a lot. What are my options?
- Do I need to get a new tire? Which will cost about 45k (which is a considerable sum considering my current financial status). If so will it unbalance the car as other 3 tires are a bit worn off now?
- Can I repair the tire with vulcanizing or some other method and continue to use it? (I like this option, as it is cheap). Will it be a risk causing another possible puncture deep in the boonies, considering I travel great miles in rural areas?
- I need to buy a spare wheel. What kind of options do I have? How much it will cost?
Your valuable feedback is highly appreciated. Thank you.
I have the same car, it might make sense for you to invest in one of those donut tires and a jack. Since the space for the spare tire is anyway there, you don't have to sacrifice on space as well.
I got both from Delkanda and they already saved me the trouble once.
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On 2/22/2020 at 4:08 PM, Hyaenidae said:
New condenser + R1234yf gas for 70k? That sounds like a steal compared to the deal @Insedious got just about 2 months ago - 100k for the condenser alone and another 80k for R1234yf
Definitely, I think I will visit the place and look at the possibility of upgrading the gas. 2 months have passed since the condenser replacement and everything seems to be fine.
One small thing I forgot update you guys on, the drier on the civic is built into the condenser, I guess it's another way of cutting costs.
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13 hours ago, Klord said:
By the way @Insedious, how goes you A/C now? All good?
Yeah, it seems to work like it was before. Albeit I've only done about 400 kms since the change. The family (who are very sensitive to changes in the AC, especially during the mid day school runs) have not noticed a difference (negative or positive).
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On 12/26/2019 at 7:38 AM, vag2 said:
100k for a condenser? Original or no-brand?
100K for everything with a Malaysian OEM part with a 2 year warranty
On 12/26/2019 at 7:38 AM, vag2 said: Any changes of performance after switching to cheaper gas? It seems the two gases operate at different pressures..
Nope. Performance seems the same. the cooling effect is the same as before but something I noticed was, there was no condensation on the pipes though they were cold to touch.
Will soon share some comparable data with regard to the cooling affect.
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My SR just cleared 9k mark (after 18 months), and here's an update. The cooling in the AC was reducing since a couple of days and had it inspected by my usual AC place and was told that the condensor has started leaking (it was evident visually with 3-4 oily spots).
So long story short, had the condensor replaced (c.a 100K) and downgraded the refrigerant to R134a from the delivered R123yf as charging the system with the latter would've costed another 80K.
Some advice from my experience,
- if you notice a drop in the cooling, stop using the AC and get it checked.
- The condensor replacement required the whole front end of the car being removed (Grill, bumper) and there are tons of clips and screws, unless everything is aligned properly, the refitting will not not work and make sure you don't let them use (the) force. ?
- Mine took like 2.5 hour for removal and refitting of the front over 20 minutes of the part replacement. So this is not a rush job.
- Some clips might break, just make sure they are marked and used in the right places.
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Up until recently, applying for the renewal of the revenue license online was possible as long as the emission report had not expired.
This was a convenience as most of us would apply for the revenue license and the get the emission report when it actually expires.
However now they have changed the rule, now the emission report issue date must be less than 60 days at the point of applying for the renewal. Apparently they put this logic in place to prevent people from getting 2 revenue licenses with one emission report.
I was able to apply for RL only after a new emission test even though my old report was valid for another 6 months.
Also there was no carbon tax.
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7 hours ago, tiv said:
On with an old thread,
has anyone used this Tiger Brand generator now marketed here?
or is there any good brand to go for a tiny generator .7 to 1kva ?
any good agent?
A friend had bought a Tiger Diesel Genny from Ab*ns but the got into a dispute over the word *silent* and eventually he decided to return it but of course the seller took his own time giving various excuses and it took like to 3 months and many many angry discussions close out the return. Long story short, horrible customer service.
I've tested out Lutian 3KVA (they have smaller ones also) and was pleasantly surprised at the sound/performance ratio. Was mainly focusing on self start ones so never got to test the 0.7 to 1Kva range.
But all in all, I think most of the Chinese gennies sold here are generic with brand name slapped on the casing and a dealer trying to sell it using his reputation.
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Since most heated seats use Peltier modules, you only have to open up the seat and turn the module up side down and you would get seat cooling. The flip side is, each time you reverse the function, you have to take apart the seats so it might take a couple of minutes longer than flipping a switch.. ?
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On 4/28/2018 at 5:33 AM, Insedious said:
I guess we want to try it out just for the sake of the challenge.
First off the navigation app is hard coded for Europe. Secondly Garmin doesn't have a proper map for Sri Lanka so OSM is the other alternative. From my research what I found was that you will have to merge the Garmin and OSM maps together as the Garmin unit will look for the Map of Europe, so the way out will be to sneak in the SL map into the map of Europe so it will override the default low res Map of Sri Lanka which Garmin already has.
Another alternative was to install a separate Navigation App like OsmAnd (as the Unit runs Andriod). I think this will require rooting of the unit as by default, it will only allow the installation of apps with the Honda signature ( read it in a couple of places, yet to validate it personally).
Another point worth mentioning is, Andriod Auto is not released for the Sri Lankan market but Apple CarPlay is. Both of them work amicably, the coolest feature is the center display (which has the speed and the tacho) switch over to the turn by turn navigation display.
Adding a link to the solution as this is tried and tested.
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On 2/16/2019 at 8:52 AM, anushax said:
Looks to me it. Thanks for guiding me in this. Clutch does not seems to be engaging.
The issue might be electrical or due to low gas pressure. I think the easiest would be to get it check at a reputed AC repair place.
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57 minutes ago, anushax said:
Yes Compressor is running. I can see the pulley is spinning.
The pully will always turn.. have a look below. This is how it looks when the clutch is engaged and not. Notice the outer nuts holding the clutch on the left, you will not see them when the compressor is on.
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3 minutes ago, anushax said:
Actually I got this out of the port like this. I just got this thing cleared, and noticed AC is not blowing hot air. Initially I thought it's a settings issue. I didn't smell anything special at the time. Actually it pumps good enough air but the problem is Air is hot.
Is the compressor clutch engaging when you switch on the AC? The compressor sits directly under the alternator.
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24 minutes ago, anushax said:
I tried that too. Put it to Lo position, but doesn't seem to work. At least heat is reduced. But no cold air.
Did this happen instantaneously? With refrigerant leaks, you would start noticing that the AC is cooling less and less till you don't get any cooling at all ( You might also smell the refrigerant/oil if the leak is on the evaporator) and the AC clutch is no longer engaging.
The reason for the question was, in similar situation (with a different) car, I found the compressor relay had died this happened while I was driving.
Our friendly AC repair guy initially check the coolant pressure and and then checked the voltage on the clutch leads and when the clutch engaged properly when given direct power, checked the harness (to see if any rat had a 3 course meal at the expense of the leads) and replaced the bad relay.
Just sharing the experience hoping it would help someone. Hopefully your situation is not this grave.
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3 minutes ago, misnad said:
Looks like I’ll be taking my own engine oil going forward.
Do you have to pay corkage for that?
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Here are some points I considered when selecting a dashcam
- Super capacitor powered instead of Lithium Polymer (Must have. The heat always managed to destroy the battery between 6 months and 2 years)
- High endurance Micro SD card (Must have: After one year, the FAT was always broken and the HE ones are going strong 1.5 years later)
- Proper WDR supporting chipset (Must have. Our addiction to fog lights and high beams will make the picture white out if the chipset is a cheap one)
- On board Wifi ( Nice to have. Saves time when you want to download files)
- On board GPS ( Nice to have. But keep in mind the time stamped Speed might have a delay so in an event the video is used as evidence, it might work against you)
- Parking Monitor mode ( Nice to have. However, this works best if you have 2 cameras as there's no point the front camera recording evidence when some fools decides to fornicate with your rear bumper)
- Dual camera (Nice to have. For obvious reason but a b*itch to wire up)
- Installation mode ( Personal preference: I prefer the windshield mounted inconspicuous ones over the standard hang with the Suction cup version simply because the camera can't move around and it doesn't restrict your view.)
- Power cable (Nice to have : I prefer the cables which double as a USB cable so it's easy to plug it directly to the laptop over the standard 12v to 5 cigarette lighter adapter that comes with the dashcam. This feature completely eliminates your need to take the card out, provided the cable is not *power* only cable and the dashcam supports the same.
- (Edit) Video Quality degradation due to Tint : (Point to consider. Event the 30% 3M tint has a considerable impact on the night time video quality and seem to confuse the WDR chip as well, so it's a hit you have to take if your windshield is tinted)
Having said all that, the flavour of the month in my view is Roav from Anker. I've been using a dashcam from them with 2K resolution and GPS and wifi and I'm pleasantly impressed with the total package. Sadly it has the evil LiPo battery but I seriously wanted give it a try as I've only had positive experience with Anker stuff (personal experience only, others are bound to have different opinions on the same).
If anyone wants to see, I will upload some videos of day and night driving on this puppy.
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16 hours ago, Eagle Eye said:
According to this, a higher HTHS viscosity could contribute to lower engine wear and lower HTHS viscosity will contribute to a better fuel economy.
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13 minutes ago, Magnum said:
I don't think the system can determine the oil quality. The system probably works on a set service interval for UK.
That's what I thought initially as well. However, when the car was delivered, the oil life time was showing around 19400 kms however as we were driving the car, it was coming down drastically, if my memory serves me right, around 2000km, the life time had depleted by half and was showing something like 9000 km. Around 3500 km it started saying that the service is nearing. And now 200kms after the service, the oil life time is shown as 18600km.
Interestingly enough the user manual has the following quote (Oil Monitor System : Displaying the Oil Monitor System Information : 615)
"Based on the engine operating and engine oil conditions, the remaining distance to the next maintenance period is calculated and displayed."
stopping short of speculating, It would be interesting to see how the above is done.
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7 hours ago, misnad said:
Great update! Where did you get the accessories though? Checked eBay and some other online sites, but shipping charges are nasty. Sta***rd told me they weren’t bringing down accessories for the Civic
Yeah. You are correct, it's almost impossible to get the right OEM parts in SL, I got a friend in the US to order it and ship it via sea freight. Of course had to do the obligatory rain dance with the customs on why these things should not be taxed. One good thing about the US I found was, most of these so called Dealer options are also open for the general public as well, albeit cheaper.
I can recommend the Honda dealer and the shipping agent I used but please PM me as I don't want to canvass 3rd party service providers. Sadly the prior will only deliver to a US address. ?
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Friends,
Since the 2018 Civic hatch has now passed the 4000km mark, I thought I’d share the journey so far with the forum
- The ride continues to be enjoyable. The steering crisp and the ultra wide tyres and the low ride height is a joy to drive
- The 3 cylinder rumble is something I’m still not used. Also the high idle RPM as well
- At 1000km mark took it to Sta***ord at Raththanapitiya for a check up (brakes, fluid levels etc) but nothing was changed. (Costed 6K later it triggered a TPMS warning which was ratified after the system was recalibrated after checking the tyre pressure at the usual gas station)
- The 3D carpets seem to a good idea, trapping all the sand and gravel in it’s bucket like layout with most of the stuff getting sandwiched between the coil carpet and the 3d carpet itself.
- One of the LED low beams died, most probably due to the constant usage. But went back for more LEDs as illumination seem better than the stock halogens (also the heat dissipation factor was a consideration as well)
- Nearing 4000km, car promptly notified the service is nearing so went back to Sta***rd and got the service done. Ended up costing 15K. They were informed about the previous TPMS issue and it didn’t recur.
- The fabric upholstery in the SR continues to be a sweat and dirt magnet so need to invest in a good upholstery cleaner
In general I’m still happy with the car, however had the 1000cc Sedan been available at the time of my order, I would’ve gone for the sedan ( I guess there would be a power loss for the additional weight)
Apart from that I’ve Made the following changes
- Added the Sri Lanka map from Open Street maps to the Garmin head unit and it’s working like a charm (I’ve shared the process in another thread)
- Since the SR didn’t come with a anti dazzling mirror, installed an OEM one (P# 76400-SZA-A22 & 08V03-TBA-100). The installation was a bit complicated as the wire harness had to be installed as well. This required the removal of the lower part console on the driver side and wiring the ground connection was b*tch. But all in all it was a success.
- Added the body side moulding to protect the paintwork (P# 08P05-TGG)
- Added OEM door visors (P# 08R04-TGG-100). Installation was easy but definitely a two man job. The clips provided so tiny they can get lost easily inside the dark interior of the car so I recommend laying a light colored bed sheet or something similar wile you are working on them.
- Added splash guards (mud flaps) (P# 08P00-TGG-100). The installation was easy and it fitted like a glove.
I’ve attached some pics of the stuff added. Hope this others.
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5 minutes ago, methmal said:
Thanks @Insedious . Is your problem resolved After repairing the starter motor ?
Yes. The bas fellow first confirmed power was coming to the terminals of the starter motor (by wiring a light bulb to the leads), then he powered the motor directly from the battery and it the motor was not engaging. I think in this case, they replaced the starter motor with one of those reconditioned ones.
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An FB15 in our extended family also had the same issue. Out of the blues the engine would refuse to crank but only made this click click noises. It turned out to be a the brushes in the starter motor were dying and replacing the the same fixed it. With the age of the car ( think it was 2001 as well) it seems to be a recurring thing.
The simple test done was to check the line voltage on the starter motor terminals and if the voltage was there, to *whack* the motor with a metal hammer while someone else cranked the engine. Jerking the car back and forth a couple times while in Park position also helped to motivate the starter motor to move that required half millimeter of angular rotation to create a closed circuit.
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Friends,
I never got around to do update the with the maps on the 2018 Civic Hatch so invested some time this weekend and this is what happened.
- Created the Pen drive by plugging it to the USB port and asking Garmin to update the maps.
- Used Garmin express on the PC to download the map ( for some reason the download kept on breaking so after searching on forums, ran Garmin express as admin and disabled the AV ( which was monitoring the network connections))
- Copied the img file shared in this forum, plugged the pen drive back into the car and update the map
Upon update (which took like 2-3 minutes) I saw that the POIs were loaded properly but it was not rendering any of the road. Only E01 was visible.
So instead of the img file shared on the forum I downloaded the map for SL (generic routable map in a zip file that contained the single img file) from http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/ and used the downloaded img file and replaced the gmapsupp.img in the pen drive.
It seem to work and the POIs and routing seem to work well as well. Even the turn by turn direction help on the center display (dashboard) seem to work well.
Going forward, I have dedicated a 16GB pen drive for map updates and will be replacing the map from OSM and updating the car's garmin. The reasoning behind this is, if I do the sync up with Garmin express and create the Pen drive using GE, the download of the European maps takes quite a while and even after using the same pen drive with an updated OSM map, seem to get Garmin to detect a new map version.
ps. I will test with other map versions from OSM and update the forum.
Montero V93W MMCS Upgrade
in General
Posted
The sound quality is identical. I too was only interested in this because it seamlessly integrates to the Rockford Amp. The head unit also has a 15 band equalizer and the DSP is quite impressive, I tested it out with frequency generator app and measured the replicated frequencies were spot on. I've also attached the screen shots of the same below.
About the steering wheel controls, I ordered through megazip,net. The parts costed $110, I opted for FedEx delivery as I was not sure of EMS these days. The total turn around time was exactly one week. The tax man wanted another LKR4,000 as his cut.
I decided to go with the steering wheel controls as according to the circuit diagram, all of the audio related controls were connected to one input line coming into the head unit, with a series resistors dropping the voltage based on the button. Just cross check if you have the same.
On the same topic, as I didn't want to cut a hole in the steering wheel housing, I snuck the wires through the gap in the steering wheel cover. Photo attached as well. I dremeled and shaped the control unit so it could be fixed using some double sided tape. This was a success however I had to use heavy duty stuff 3M as that was the only tape which could take the torque generated by the pressing motion.