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Insedious

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Everything posted by Insedious

  1. The sound quality is identical. I too was only interested in this because it seamlessly integrates to the Rockford Amp. The head unit also has a 15 band equalizer and the DSP is quite impressive, I tested it out with frequency generator app and measured the replicated frequencies were spot on. I've also attached the screen shots of the same below. About the steering wheel controls, I ordered through megazip,net. The parts costed $110, I opted for FedEx delivery as I was not sure of EMS these days. The total turn around time was exactly one week. The tax man wanted another LKR4,000 as his cut. I decided to go with the steering wheel controls as according to the circuit diagram, all of the audio related controls were connected to one input line coming into the head unit, with a series resistors dropping the voltage based on the button. Just cross check if you have the same. On the same topic, as I didn't want to cut a hole in the steering wheel housing, I snuck the wires through the gap in the steering wheel cover. Photo attached as well. I dremeled and shaped the control unit so it could be fixed using some double sided tape. This was a success however I had to use heavy duty stuff 3M as that was the only tape which could take the torque generated by the pressing motion.
  2. With android head unit market has made huge strides since I last posted the above question, was able to find a head unit which does the following. 1. No cutting of wires 2. The Rockford Amplifier should work 3. The Steering wheel audio controls must work 4. Bluetooth hands free usage 5. Android auto/Apple car play The head unit itself was selected after much research on android head units in the market and how they connect to car. It also comes with a CANBUS adapter which connects directly to the two connectors of the stock CD changer. Since the car didn't have the handsfree switches on the steering, I also got it down, but please note that it also requires the replacement of the hands free harness inside the steering wheel. This means you have to remove the steering airbag and as always, the Mitsubishi workshop manual is your friend but in general I don't recommend playing around with the airbags. All in all everything works fine now. Here are some nice features 1. Wireless Car Play 2. Android 10 OS 3. Built in DSP/Pre Amp 4. Reverse Camera direct wiring. The parts involved are as below. The head unit - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001227274176.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7e234c4dYu6JyO Handfree Switch set - P# 8750A247 Handsfree Harness - P# 4400A465 Hope this helps anyone who also wants to try the same.
  3. I have the same car, it might make sense for you to invest in one of those donut tires and a jack. Since the space for the spare tire is anyway there, you don't have to sacrifice on space as well. I got both from Delkanda and they already saved me the trouble once.
  4. Definitely, I think I will visit the place and look at the possibility of upgrading the gas. 2 months have passed since the condenser replacement and everything seems to be fine. One small thing I forgot update you guys on, the drier on the civic is built into the condenser, I guess it's another way of cutting costs.
  5. Yeah, it seems to work like it was before. Albeit I've only done about 400 kms since the change. The family (who are very sensitive to changes in the AC, especially during the mid day school runs) have not noticed a difference (negative or positive).
  6. 100K for everything with a Malaysian OEM part with a 2 year warranty Nope. Performance seems the same. the cooling effect is the same as before but something I noticed was, there was no condensation on the pipes though they were cold to touch. Will soon share some comparable data with regard to the cooling affect.
  7. My SR just cleared 9k mark (after 18 months), and here's an update. The cooling in the AC was reducing since a couple of days and had it inspected by my usual AC place and was told that the condensor has started leaking (it was evident visually with 3-4 oily spots). So long story short, had the condensor replaced (c.a 100K) and downgraded the refrigerant to R134a from the delivered R123yf as charging the system with the latter would've costed another 80K. Some advice from my experience, if you notice a drop in the cooling, stop using the AC and get it checked. The condensor replacement required the whole front end of the car being removed (Grill, bumper) and there are tons of clips and screws, unless everything is aligned properly, the refitting will not not work and make sure you don't let them use (the) force. ? Mine took like 2.5 hour for removal and refitting of the front over 20 minutes of the part replacement. So this is not a rush job. Some clips might break, just make sure they are marked and used in the right places.
  8. Up until recently, applying for the renewal of the revenue license online was possible as long as the emission report had not expired. This was a convenience as most of us would apply for the revenue license and the get the emission report when it actually expires. However now they have changed the rule, now the emission report issue date must be less than 60 days at the point of applying for the renewal. Apparently they put this logic in place to prevent people from getting 2 revenue licenses with one emission report. I was able to apply for RL only after a new emission test even though my old report was valid for another 6 months. Also there was no carbon tax.
  9. Nice write up ? Mine crossed the 6K mark as well. All in all I'm happy with the buy considering the feature set for the price paid. in addition, some of the things I noticed Rapid de-acceleration from 70 to 0 triggers some type of collision preparation mode, the hazards came on automatically (allegedly the brake lights blink as well, this is according to a friend, could not verify as I was driving) A friend had the AC evaporator getting punctured after a cruise down the express way at 100. Apparently this is a design defect. Had the TPMS playing havoc a couple of times, but no issues after recalibration. My guess is, the TPMS works by measuring the rotations ( ABS sensor data) as the valves in the Civic look like the normal ones. The plain cloth interior (mine is an SR) needs a fair amount of TLC especially if you have kids who didn't financially contribute when you bought the car. Consumption ranges between 7-8.5 kmpl with Eco and Auto Off. The car is mainly used for the school run Had the first puncture, fixed it with the trusty Stop & Go Tire Repair kit. (Luckily I invested in a jack and a spare wheel) Updated the garmin maps a couple of time just for kicks, worked each time like a charm. Love the directions appearing in the center of the dashboard. Had a motor cyclist knock the right side mirror. The upper part of the cover came off but no clips were broken so it went back in with a little persuasion. Again, luckily, the paint protecting wrapping did it's job.
  10. Insedious

    Generators

    A friend had bought a Tiger Diesel Genny from Ab*ns but the got into a dispute over the word *silent* and eventually he decided to return it but of course the seller took his own time giving various excuses and it took like to 3 months and many many angry discussions close out the return. Long story short, horrible customer service. I've tested out Lutian 3KVA (they have smaller ones also) and was pleasantly surprised at the sound/performance ratio. Was mainly focusing on self start ones so never got to test the 0.7 to 1Kva range. But all in all, I think most of the Chinese gennies sold here are generic with brand name slapped on the casing and a dealer trying to sell it using his reputation.
  11. Since most heated seats use Peltier modules, you only have to open up the seat and turn the module up side down and you would get seat cooling. The flip side is, each time you reverse the function, you have to take apart the seats so it might take a couple of minutes longer than flipping a switch.. ?
  12. Adding a link to the solution as this is tried and tested.
  13. The issue might be electrical or due to low gas pressure. I think the easiest would be to get it check at a reputed AC repair place.
  14. The pully will always turn.. have a look below. This is how it looks when the clutch is engaged and not. Notice the outer nuts holding the clutch on the left, you will not see them when the compressor is on.
  15. Is the compressor clutch engaging when you switch on the AC? The compressor sits directly under the alternator.
  16. Did this happen instantaneously? With refrigerant leaks, you would start noticing that the AC is cooling less and less till you don't get any cooling at all ( You might also smell the refrigerant/oil if the leak is on the evaporator) and the AC clutch is no longer engaging. The reason for the question was, in similar situation (with a different) car, I found the compressor relay had died this happened while I was driving. Our friendly AC repair guy initially check the coolant pressure and and then checked the voltage on the clutch leads and when the clutch engaged properly when given direct power, checked the harness (to see if any rat had a 3 course meal at the expense of the leads) and replaced the bad relay. Just sharing the experience hoping it would help someone. Hopefully your situation is not this grave.
  17. Do you have to pay corkage for that?
  18. Here are some points I considered when selecting a dashcam Super capacitor powered instead of Lithium Polymer (Must have. The heat always managed to destroy the battery between 6 months and 2 years) High endurance Micro SD card (Must have: After one year, the FAT was always broken and the HE ones are going strong 1.5 years later) Proper WDR supporting chipset (Must have. Our addiction to fog lights and high beams will make the picture white out if the chipset is a cheap one) On board Wifi ( Nice to have. Saves time when you want to download files) On board GPS ( Nice to have. But keep in mind the time stamped Speed might have a delay so in an event the video is used as evidence, it might work against you) Parking Monitor mode ( Nice to have. However, this works best if you have 2 cameras as there's no point the front camera recording evidence when some fools decides to fornicate with your rear bumper) Dual camera (Nice to have. For obvious reason but a b*itch to wire up) Installation mode ( Personal preference: I prefer the windshield mounted inconspicuous ones over the standard hang with the Suction cup version simply because the camera can't move around and it doesn't restrict your view.) Power cable (Nice to have : I prefer the cables which double as a USB cable so it's easy to plug it directly to the laptop over the standard 12v to 5 cigarette lighter adapter that comes with the dashcam. This feature completely eliminates your need to take the card out, provided the cable is not *power* only cable and the dashcam supports the same. (Edit) Video Quality degradation due to Tint : (Point to consider. Event the 30% 3M tint has a considerable impact on the night time video quality and seem to confuse the WDR chip as well, so it's a hit you have to take if your windshield is tinted) Having said all that, the flavour of the month in my view is Roav from Anker. I've been using a dashcam from them with 2K resolution and GPS and wifi and I'm pleasantly impressed with the total package. Sadly it has the evil LiPo battery but I seriously wanted give it a try as I've only had positive experience with Anker stuff (personal experience only, others are bound to have different opinions on the same). If anyone wants to see, I will upload some videos of day and night driving on this puppy.
  19. According to this, a higher HTHS viscosity could contribute to lower engine wear and lower HTHS viscosity will contribute to a better fuel economy.
  20. That's what I thought initially as well. However, when the car was delivered, the oil life time was showing around 19400 kms however as we were driving the car, it was coming down drastically, if my memory serves me right, around 2000km, the life time had depleted by half and was showing something like 9000 km. Around 3500 km it started saying that the service is nearing. And now 200kms after the service, the oil life time is shown as 18600km. Interestingly enough the user manual has the following quote (Oil Monitor System : Displaying the Oil Monitor System Information : 615) "Based on the engine operating and engine oil conditions, the remaining distance to the next maintenance period is calculated and displayed." stopping short of speculating, It would be interesting to see how the above is done.
  21. Yeah. You are correct, it's almost impossible to get the right OEM parts in SL, I got a friend in the US to order it and ship it via sea freight. Of course had to do the obligatory rain dance with the customs on why these things should not be taxed. One good thing about the US I found was, most of these so called Dealer options are also open for the general public as well, albeit cheaper. I can recommend the Honda dealer and the shipping agent I used but please PM me as I don't want to canvass 3rd party service providers. Sadly the prior will only deliver to a US address. ?
  22. Friends, Since the 2018 Civic hatch has now passed the 4000km mark, I thought I’d share the journey so far with the forum The ride continues to be enjoyable. The steering crisp and the ultra wide tyres and the low ride height is a joy to drive The 3 cylinder rumble is something I’m still not used. Also the high idle RPM as well At 1000km mark took it to Sta***ord at Raththanapitiya for a check up (brakes, fluid levels etc) but nothing was changed. (Costed 6K later it triggered a TPMS warning which was ratified after the system was recalibrated after checking the tyre pressure at the usual gas station) The 3D carpets seem to a good idea, trapping all the sand and gravel in it’s bucket like layout with most of the stuff getting sandwiched between the coil carpet and the 3d carpet itself. One of the LED low beams died, most probably due to the constant usage. But went back for more LEDs as illumination seem better than the stock halogens (also the heat dissipation factor was a consideration as well) Nearing 4000km, car promptly notified the service is nearing so went back to Sta***rd and got the service done. Ended up costing 15K. They were informed about the previous TPMS issue and it didn’t recur. The fabric upholstery in the SR continues to be a sweat and dirt magnet so need to invest in a good upholstery cleaner In general I’m still happy with the car, however had the 1000cc Sedan been available at the time of my order, I would’ve gone for the sedan ( I guess there would be a power loss for the additional weight) Apart from that I’ve Made the following changes Added the Sri Lanka map from Open Street maps to the Garmin head unit and it’s working like a charm (I’ve shared the process in another thread) Since the SR didn’t come with a anti dazzling mirror, installed an OEM one (P# 76400-SZA-A22 & 08V03-TBA-100). The installation was a bit complicated as the wire harness had to be installed as well. This required the removal of the lower part console on the driver side and wiring the ground connection was b*tch. But all in all it was a success. Added the body side moulding to protect the paintwork (P# 08P05-TGG) Added OEM door visors (P# 08R04-TGG-100). Installation was easy but definitely a two man job. The clips provided so tiny they can get lost easily inside the dark interior of the car so I recommend laying a light colored bed sheet or something similar wile you are working on them. Added splash guards (mud flaps) (P# 08P00-TGG-100). The installation was easy and it fitted like a glove. I’ve attached some pics of the stuff added. Hope this others.
  23. Yes. The bas fellow first confirmed power was coming to the terminals of the starter motor (by wiring a light bulb to the leads), then he powered the motor directly from the battery and it the motor was not engaging. I think in this case, they replaced the starter motor with one of those reconditioned ones.
  24. An FB15 in our extended family also had the same issue. Out of the blues the engine would refuse to crank but only made this click click noises. It turned out to be a the brushes in the starter motor were dying and replacing the the same fixed it. With the age of the car ( think it was 2001 as well) it seems to be a recurring thing. The simple test done was to check the line voltage on the starter motor terminals and if the voltage was there, to *whack* the motor with a metal hammer while someone else cranked the engine. Jerking the car back and forth a couple times while in Park position also helped to motivate the starter motor to move that required half millimeter of angular rotation to create a closed circuit.
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