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Hyaenidae

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Everything posted by Hyaenidae

  1. Yeah mine sounds as it always did since it was brand new except for this intermittent belt-slipping noise Gotta get them replaced one of these days
  2. Using the tank-to-tank method it was always around 14 since I bought it brand new. Note that the car is mainly being driven on Kurunegala - Kandy route. The most traffic she sees is when we're driving through the town - I've noticed 8kmpl on the trip computer when traffic is really bad. But it always averages around 14. Nowadays I don't exceed 2000RPM and coast whenever possible - trip computer continuously shows 15+ figures as a result. No chance of doing T2T FE checks anymore because nowadays the tank rarely go below 3/4 point, I refill it at the first petrol line I deem short enough for me Check out this thread for all your maintenance concerns
  3. Do you have a recording of said hum? Is it continuous? mine does a sort of humming noise intermittently, when the AC compressor operates - UM said it might be my 7-year old belts slipping so I bought new ones, hoping to get those replaced on next service
  4. I can be honest and unfiltered but not unbiased lol... having driven both vehicles I'd trade a brand new Bezza for a 2011 EX in a heartbeat, especially if it has the 1600CC motor ( afaik 2011 and later EXs have it )
  5. Hmm, considering that the added cost per km is like Rs. 2, might as well go with 95... It's just that I couldn't feel any difference between 92+octane boosters and 95. Not even fuel economy. Managed to hit 16+ on long distance runs using 92+boosters I was diluting one can per 60L too, despite the recommended ratio being 1 can per 50L. Ah well, let's see if there's 95 available at the station next time. If there is, I'll pump 95 and see if she runs smoother
  6. How much did it cost? I've been contemplating switching to 92 permanently once my octane boosters run out
  7. Yup, stocked octane boosters back when those were 1500. Have enough for 7 more tankfulls, then pure 92 for me 🤧
  8. IOC euro 3 is 92 octane with some "friction additives", it's just fancy 92 so don't waste your money. If the manufacturer recommends 95 and warns against using lower octane fuel it's better to heed their advice
  9. You should be looking at "fuel selection", not "Information for station service" 😅
  10. Hate when they get too vague or intricate when describing a simple fuel recommendation Consider this: This is the owners manual of the 10th gen civic. Why do they "recommend" 95 or above for the last variant and not for the variants mentioned before?
  11. This is where owners manual comes in for the rescue Imagine my relief to see the manufacturer itself explicitly mentioning there won't be any engine damage as long as you use 90 RON or above
  12. Not so for the Lancers... well, fuel economy and power will be affected but there won't be any engine damage as long as we have 90 octane at least Back to octane boosters, BTX and MMT based octane boosters do work and there is extensive literature on how they work and their potential adverse effects, but those so-called "eco-tablets" and Emsol that have been gaining notoriety these days doesn't have a smidgen of literature on how those work or at least what those are based on so I'm not sure if it is truly a good idea to introduce those unknown substances into our vehicles hoping those would "improve bad fuel" somehow.
  13. Well we're looking for "alternatives for octane 95", right? what good is a fuel stabilizer in that regard?
  14. MMT-based octane boosters do leave a film of orange/yellow on plugs, pistons and the exhaust system - studies conducted under laboratory conditions (a vehicle running for a set amount of time/mileage on a conveyor belt or something similar I guess) have shown that MMT do leave a film of manganese particles inside the catalytic converter, but those findings have been challenged because the number of heat cycles were low (no cold starts, the vehicle has been running continuously) and under real-world conditions (on the road) the manganese particles would've detached from exhaust system components which would not happen on a conveyor belt
  15. But how does it actually "optimize" the fuel? What is it made out of?
  16. I mean with traditional octane boosters like BTX and MMT we know how they work... but we don't even know what Emsol is made out of, let alone how it works
  17. These are simple cars, I'm pretty sure any decent workshop would be able to maintain 'em as long as you can find spares, fellow FD owners here will help you find any hard-to-find spares you might need, if there are any The EX is even bigger than the FD (LxWxH 4570x1760x1480 vs 4545x1750x1430) Don't let the size intimidate you, you get used to it with experience that's what she said!
  18. In that case I'd go for a FD if I were you. Yes, ease of maintenance wise the EX would be on top for a newbie car owner because the Authorized agent for Mitsubishi has got an islandwide presence while Honda's authorized agent is limited to Colombo but the amount you save going for a FD3 justifies it I think. I've no firsthand experience but I'm pretty sure that the EX can't match the fuel economy of a hybrid. FD4 and EX should be equal when it comes to FE.
  19. I've got a question for ya: Which one looks better? https://perma.cc/9J6D-HTMD https://perma.cc/2EAJ-UPAK View the live page if images won't load for you
  20. Lancers have the oil sump completely covered... check the video below as a result you can't see the ground when looked from up above (Except for the openings I have highlighted. Oil/water drains maybe?) Underbody guards on Lancer
  21. Hope the insurance will cover the cost - c******o have this stipulation which after 4 years of the manufactured date they wouldn't pay 100% for brand new parts, you have to either go for recon parts or bear 35% of the cost of the brand new part yourself. Hope that's not the case with SLIC because at least the bumper, LH headlight and foglight seems to need replacing. Keep us updated how it goes...
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