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Randeewa

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Posts posted by Randeewa

  1. On 7/30/2021 at 3:02 PM, Inflames said:

    Hi Community,

    I have unfortunately become a victim of odometer fraud when i bought a second hand car recently.

    I purchased a vehicle from a dealership recently and when i took it to TL for a service it seems the odometer has been set back 100,000KM. 

    Unfortunately the transaction and transfer has been done.

    What should i do to sort this out or what options do i have as this is illegal. 

    Thanks in advance.... 

    Nothing. I think Odometer has been changed 90% of Vehicles in Sri Lanka except few 1st owner home used vehicles. Just check on popular classified websites all most 10 to 15 years old cars odometer is lower than 100000 Km (80000Km is the most popular number). One guy i know do visits car sales and tamper odometers. So never rely on Odometer number. like experts mentioned do a full checkup if all things on good condition that what you can get. Probably running repairs will arise early than you expect due to lower odometer number and ready for it.      

  2. On 3/8/2020 at 7:12 PM, Cham12063 said:

    I have a honda GP1. I did the steering rack repaired but after the repair  it is not functioning properly.Its hard to turn to one side.Please share your similar  ecperiences and the best way to get this repaired.

    I have exact same experienced on my Honda Fit GP1 few years back. 100% agreed with for Ted's post. steering rack nut is in too tight due to Rack and pinon worn out. True when using few days will loose the wheel or you can loosen nut manually. But then Daka Daka noise will come again. After repair on my GP1 steering wheel was very tight and not returned. even heard grinding noise when turning. when loosen the nut manually noise came back. I will never Recommend repair racks best thing replace with recondition one. 

    Following is my previous post about Aqua Rack.

    I have repaired Steering Rack of my Aqua twice. It was never workout for me. repaired rack only last few months only with very bad roads in Sri Lanka.  If only Rack bush worn out repair by replacing bush will be Ok. But if Rack and pinion worn out it can never repair. Just waste of money. Only thing Replace with Brand new one or Good conditioned Recondition one as i did for my Aqua. Guarge Mechanics will say it can be repair you can run year or two blah blah never true. you will hear daka daka noise within few weeks or months when loosing tightened rack. This is experience from not only Aqua few of my previous cars Suzuki, Honda Fit, Prius all the same. If any one knows how to repair Rack and pinion repairing Rack will be Ok.

    Also if you are running good Carpeted Roads most of time repaired rack will last more period of time. and also check rack ends and Tie rod ends are tight.

    Note that repairing rack will cost you Rs.10K to Rs.12K and recondition rack of Aqua will cost Rs.20K to 25K.

  3. On 3/28/2021 at 8:43 AM, Shasheem MOHAMED -COLOMBO- said:

    I have a Toyota aqua 2012 I have a issue in the car rack please recomend a good place near dehiwala 

    I am not an expert. But this is from experience.

    I have repaired Steering Rack of my Aqua twice. It was never workout for me. repaired rack only last few months only with very bad roads in Sri Lanka.  If only Rack bush worn out repair by replacing bush will be Ok. But if Rack and pinion worn out it can never repair. Just waste of money. Only thing Replace with Brand new one or Good conditioned Recondition one as i did for my Aqua. Guarge Mechanics will say it can be repair you can run year or two blah blah never true. you will hear daka daka noise within few weeks or months when loosing tightened rack. This is experience from not only Aqua few of my previous cars Suzuki, Honda Fit, Prius all the same. If any one knows how to repair Rack and pinion repairing Rack will be Ok.

    Also if you are running good Carpeted Roads most of time repaired rack will last more period of time. and also check rack ends and Tie rod ends are tight.

    Note that repairing rack will cost you Rs.10K to Rs.12K and recondition rack of Aqua will cost Rs.20K to 25K.

    Rack-pinion-Gear-wheel-cogwheel.jpg

  4. 35 minutes ago, iRage said:

    What makes you think that KYB made in Thailand is of poor quality ? This whole notion of parts not being good if it is not made in Japan is a myth and shoud have stayed in the early 90s where it belonged. Even in Japan most of the parts are made in Thailand, Indonesia and only some are made in Japan. These companies make sure that quality standads are met no matter where it is manufactured (most of your Japanese market car's component would have come from Thailand and other countries anyway). Also, Japanese does not mean it is always good. Akebono, one of Japan's most trusted brake component suppliers is not in trouble for faking test results. Then there was the TAKATA safety systems issues... 

    Even the Japanese made KYB shocks what you get 99% of the time are COMPATIBLE parts..not the DIRECT replacement (so specs are slightly different); and even if you do get the direct replacement it is only for a specific model year or grade (for example....the manufacturer shock shock for the prefacelift 141 Axio is different from the facelift one..but T**S might only have the one for the prefacelift one (although it can be used on all 141s). It is just that before certain model ranges were made in Thailand and some in Japan.

    Gabriel...well they are an American brand...saw them in America and Africa and was a competitor for Monroe. They claim it is all made in America but this applies only for the ones for the North American continent market...most are made in Mexico and I beleive they have plants in South Africa and somewhere in the East (Phillipines and/or Australia or someplace..not sure)

    Good explanation iRage. This is what most people need aware of. most of them think only the 'Made in Japan' printed is only good. 90% of them are not actual Made in Japan only the print. I think if the product is genuine (brand name) no matter where it is manufactured (if they follow quality standards).

  5. Hi all

    Yesterday i went to repair Power steering rack of a Toyota Aqua 2012 (Due to noise issue) First i went to new lathe work place to know it can be repaired guy says yes charges is Rs6500.00 for total repair (if pinion worn out it should also repaired + replace the Bush). then i went to totally new place to remove and fix the rack which was a place lathe workshop guy recommended. They remove rack just took 10 to 15 minutes using hydraulic jack and lathe workshop repaired rack within 30 minutes and the fixing again took 15 minutes. 

    My problem is they charge Rs 6500.00 for only remove and fix the rack (Total cost is Rs13,000.00) and i feel i was ripped off by garage people. The last time i done this same job for Honda Fit GP1 (different places) rack repair cost was Rs2500.00+ remove fixing charges Rs.3500.00 Total Rs.6000.00 one and half year ago.

    Anyone who did a Steering Rack repair recently let me know is this charges reasonable?

    Thanks

  6. On 5/27/2020 at 11:19 AM, matroska said:

    Why would you want to clean the fuel tank specifically? Is 53 k the overall mileage of the car? It's a bit too low for a car of that age.

    Fuel Filter is located inside the Fuel Tank with pump right? What is the average mileage for cleaning Fuel Filter with Sri Lankan Dirty Fuel? (I mean the condition of the Fuel Sheds)  

    • Thanks 1
  7. 9 hours ago, Davy said:

    Not sure if the excessive cooling fan noise is normal, but they emit quite a bit of noise at high speed. It can get worse if the sound absorption material under the bonnet, or if the plastic engine undertrays are missing. 

    As for #2, if the temperature gauge is showing normal, then you don't have to worry about it. You can't really tell that an engine is too hot simply by "feeling" the temperature.

    Since it's a second hand car that's over 10 years old, I suggest doing some preventive maintenance like changing all fluids, getting a fuel system clean-up (tune up) done. Especially if there's no verified maintenance history.

    Thanks Davy

     

  8. 4 hours ago, AVANTE said:

    Like Davy said, do preventive maintenance! 

    Our swift has this same problem where it heats up alot yet the needle stays in the center. Be careful on long drives, as it's a small engine give it a 5-10 minute rest every 1 and half hour on long trips. I think it's a common issue with the swift. But do get your radiator cleaned, change the cap and check the thermostat. Trust me, it's cheap and gives alot of peace of mind. I lost a gasket after having a radiator block, faulty cap and trusting that stupid temp. gauge. 

    Do a fuel system tune up and check your driving manners. But still, auto Swifts and marches are the worst offenders for fuel consuming hatchbacks. I don't think you can get more than 12kmpl. We bought a manual to avoid that problem (does an average of 13-15 outstation)

    Also, you can hear the fan noise from inside too when idling, but haven't heard during driving. Hope yours isn't that loud. 

     

    Thanks AVANTE

    That's what i needed and what i presumed. I would do same. Thanks

  9. My brother recently brought Suzuki Swift 2008 (DBA-ZC71S. 1300CC) and there are some things to clarify.

    1. When AC on the radiator fan noise is noticeably very very high is  this normal of this model?

    2. Engine heat is very very high more than other similar capacity cars (But heat gauge needle is in the center always). I used to own a Chevrolet Cruze and engine is M13A which also on Swift beetle older models never heat this much. (DBA-ZC71S has different engine and i need to clarify is this normal for this model? After 1/2 hour drive cannot even touch the bonnet stand.

    Fuel consumption is 6 to 8 without heavy traffic.

    I feel that there is some issue on cooling fan or engine cooling system. Any expert or Swift owners please reply me.

    Thanks

  10. 11 hours ago, ramishkad said:

    Value controlled by the battery control module is called the State of Charge (SoC). It's a value that moves between 0-100% regardless of the usable capacity. 

    I forgot to mention earlier that BCM will reset the 'usable capacity' when the system is reset. But it will always normalize to the actual value once you run 100-200km or more. So when getting the report, always ensure that it is not taken immediately after a system reset (this can be figured out in the same report as it shows the mileage since last reset).

     

    Good Info.

    Are the system reset on Honda Fit GP1 can be done by a scanner or disconnecting 12V battery or from both way will reset usable capacity?

  11. On 9/27/2019 at 5:28 PM, dhanushkahw said:

    THIRD Thread - How to Select the Best GP 1 in the Market

    Hi Guys So I am finally decided to go with Honda Fit GP 1 So need help to how to purchase the best available. So Identified following available

    Cars Available from Man. Yr 2011-2013

    Milage availbele from around 60000 km to 110000 km

    Is there any premium versions , Limited versions available ? What are the differences

    Please Help Guys 

    Thanks :)

    Honda Fit GP1 is very good car to own and very trouble free Hybrid Car (may be it is mild Hybrid). Compare to other cars in this price range most of hatchbacks like Vitz, Passo, IST, WagonR, Swift, Mira, Alto including Hybrids and Petrol cars GP1 is way ahead in regard options, Comfortable, Driving Pleasure, even it way ahead with most popular Toyota Aqua.

    I owned GP1 one and half year now and it never give any single trouble for me. The price is GP1 is low presently and worth the every bit of money comparing above mentioned car prices (Some are very older than GP1 and still has very high price)

    If you refer Japanese website for recall it clearly mentioned the manufacture date range as follows.

    GP1-1200002 to GP1-1242186

    May 10, 2012-August 2, 2013

    When searching to buy a GP1 i  found lots of cars 2012/2013 manufactured and falls withing recall range and all cars in 2011 out of range. So i went for 2011 minding safe side and regardless newest manufacture year. So try to avoid recall range (Except current owner repaired the oil burning issue and produce evidence of repair)

    When searching to buy a GP1 i  found various trim levels and versions in GP1s  (Basic model with less options like key starts, 10th Anniversary Model, Navi Premium Model, Fine Style Model, Anniversary and Navi Premium with Original Mugen Body Kits. etc.

    Navi Premium Model is the Highest grade GP1 and it has lots of extra options like 7 Speed Paddle Shift, Dual Multi function Steering Wheel, Intelligent Smart Key, CoolBox, Climate Control AC

    , Cruise control

    , Traction control

    , Alloy wheels

    , Fog Lamps

    , Seat Heaters,Auto Head Lights

    , Retractable winker Mirrors Original Honda navi premium Audio System with Reverse camera, DVD Bluetooth & Navigation.
    Windscreen & Side mirror heaters etc.

    Currently most of GP1s falls in same price range regardless above extra options. So try to find highest option out of recall range GP1.

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  12. 12 hours ago, alpha17 said:

    I’ll explain what are the differences you’ll notice.

    -GP5 is considerably faster than the GP1 and fun to drive. In terms of acceleration it is on a totally different planet when compared with Vitz and Aquas

    -Interior is nicely done in the GP5and has an upmarket look than the GP1, but same as the GP1 all materials are hard plastic

    -GP5’s Handling is a bit better than the GP1

    -Some models of the GP1 came with the serious engine oil burning issue which is a real headache. But only a range of cars are affected. You can search in the forum form for their chassis number range to avoid. This was rectified in the GP5 and later GP1s

    -Comfort wise almost the same

    -GP5 has the faster wearing Dual Clutch gearbox, which tends to pack up around 80,000kms and above (due to the SL climate)

    -Both cars don’t have serious battery issues like the Civic Hybrid, but most of the GP1s would be in their final stages due to their age.

    -GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out.

    -I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5. 

    -GP5 is one of the most favourite cars that I would love to DRIVE.

     

    I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5.

    I don't have driven GP5 but about GP1 you are 100% correct. indeed i also found that the GP1 is hard to drive in traffic until you get used. After you familiar with GP1 for a long time it will be hard to drive other car.  Also i have things to clarify about GP1.

    1. At the very steep climb with 4 people if you break the car it is very hard to accelerate and get up. You have to reverse down and get pickup. then it will be ok anyone noticed about it?

    2. Break and stop at climb when releasing break pedal car is reverse backward. you have to put handbrake or press gas pedal to stop reverse ( i didn't experience that much in any other car) like balancing clutch on manual car.

    Are above common things on GP1 and also with GP5?

  13. I have faced similar issue last week. When i started my GP1 AC works fine after 10 to 15 Minutes drive suddenly AC completely stops working. I stop the car with engine running and checked no compressor on/off click sound or fan running. Then i tried AC on off manually few times and suddenly compressor start 2 times and stops not starts again. I took car AC repair guy and he checked and says Gas and other things are OK may be problem with electric issue. Then i went to my electronic guy and he inspect car with scanner and says AC Relay may be faulty and this is common issue for GP1. He changed the Relay AC works fine. (Relay is located in near AC compressor on engine bay). This was happened 3 days ago and still no issue.

  14. 16 hours ago, Crosswind said:

    Is it ok if you save 50,000 a year on fuel and spend 100,000 a year on maintenance? 

    If so, go for the hybrid. 

    If not, stay with the vitz

    This is very true.

    You will be save more money from your Vitz than Prius or Aqua. The reason is both cars are very old for Hybrids and you have to spend lots of money for maintenance and repairs. I was owns a 2008 prius. 

    If you want upgrade from Vitz go for higher grade Petrol Car. If you badly need hybrid for save money from fuel go for Brand new Hybrid.

  15. 17 hours ago, sira said:

    No i don't see any Engine oil burn smell and oil were up to the limit. 

    No not engine oil burning issue. May be this is only for me. As per Mechanics opinion smell is coming from Hybrid Battery cooling system (Fan). and he says what exactly what you have posted "When the hybrid  battery is low engine will try to charge it then performance go down".

  16. 1 hour ago, Toyot said:

    Thanks a lot for the detail outlook, ya definitely will keep in touch with you if I decide to go for a fit. As I told you my concern is the battery life, but now on top of it the oil leaking issue.. But let's c. Thanks again?

    Agreed with TheflyingFox and Matroska I have experience with both Toyota and Honda Fit. on Aqua you can never trust about battery other than full test with T......Lanka. On Honda fit Battery issues will be very less and must check for chassis number to avoid recall range.

    GP1-1200002 to GP1-1242186

    GP1-8000002 to GP1-8000091

    You can easily avoid above range by checking chassis number display on the to of the engine bay and also on passenger side door frame. I have checked 12 cars 8 is within the range and other 4 out of range.

    • Thanks 1
  17. 17 hours ago, Crosswind said:

    I shifted to Kumho recently. I too, agree with the road noise. Wet performance, dry performance etc. are pretty good with Kumhos. Comfort is alright (my tyres are low profile anyway). I have experience with Sumitomo, Toyo, Bridgestone (all Japan), Hankook, Kumho, Nexen (all Korea), Kinforest, Deruibao (both Chinese), Continental (Germany). This is how I would rate them purely based on perception (from best to worst).

    Sumitomo>Hankook> Toyo> Bridgestone>Kumho>Kinforest>Continental>Deruibao>>>>>>>> Nexen

    (Nexen gave me nightmares. I chucked all four tires after about 10,000 -15,000 km and decided to absorb the loss)

     I have recently changed my 4 tires to Dunlop SP Sport LM704 (Japan) which is great tires (Comfort, Road Noise). On the tire it says Sumitomo Rubber Industries. Is Dunlop also Sumitomo or Dunlop use their rubber?

  18. 22 hours ago, ShaR said:

    I've heard that IMA battery usable capacity gets reset to 75% when the 12 battery terminals were disconnected. Have any of you heard of this or experienced this?

    How much should we run (km) to get the battery's actual usable capacity?

    Is this true? Any one can confim it

  19. On 4/10/2018 at 12:22 PM, sira said:

    Dear friends

    Few things i realized on this GP 1 after using it for 2 months time. the said issue is happening when the hybrid  battery is low. i believe then engine will try to charge it then performance go down. please correct if this wrong

     

    Thanks 

     

    Is you feel some burning smell inside the car when accelerating hard?

    I have experienced same exact issue what you have  also in GP1 2011 . Battery capacity is also 25%. Mechanic says burning smell from Battery and low pulling power due to weak battery capacity. When turning off Eco mode pulling power is ok. it seems common thing for old GP1.

  20. Like Davy said this would be Oil Control Valve for VVT. In Suzuki Swift M13A Engine leaking oil from this Oil Control Valve is a very common issue for old engines. Mostly leak happening from power connector of valve. You can replace it with used Japanese one removed from engine (cost will be Rs 4000 to Rs 8000). I have tried to repair it with sealing with glue but not succeeded (M13A Engine).

    • Thanks 1
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