Elrond

In my car, they scanned the system, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body and injectors (in that process they replaced injector O Rings and insulators).

Got it. Thanks for clarification, iRage!

Then that should be it. ? So it seems in some vehicles the fuel return doesn't go through the filter assembly, but rather directly connects to the tank? For example, the filter assembly in the following video has only one tube.

Thanks iRage.

Thanks for the post @Sampath Gunasekera. I changed the fuel filter of my CS3 at 91000km while doing a tuneup at the Agent. (It was around 20700/= in 2016). Guess I wasn't curious enough at that time to dismantle the filter and look inside. BTW, why there are two tubes going out of the filter? Is one line for air? or a fuel return?

The alternator belt was 5 years old and the P/S belt older than that. That's why I was planning to replace them.

Got the timing belt changed from the Agent couple of days ago and thought to note down the latest prices. Belt: 10784/=, Cam oil seal: 1244/=, Crank oil seal: 1380/=, Tensioner: 8803/=, Labour: 8280/= While doing it, they identified a leak from the water pump and it was also replaced. New pump was 27595/= (?). They notified me before doing that. But without letting me know, they had gone ahead and replaced the Alternator belt (4713/=) and P/S belt (8938/=) as well! Those were needed to be replaced, but i didn't plan to get that done from the Agent. Does anyone know the aftermarket prices for Lancer CS3 water pump, alternator belt and p/s belt? BTW, now they don't allow us to go to the repair section and watch.

Hi All, This week only I could get this problem inspected. Agent did a test drive and said the Clutch is bit hard, and the gear shifting is not that smooth. But, since a clutch system repair would cost around 70K, they recommended to do a gear oil change first and see whether the issue would occur again when going long distance. (Previous oil change was done 30000km and 3 years ago). Gear oil change cost me 6163.85/= for the oil and 1380/= for labour. Now have to drive long distance and see. Cheers!

Thanks Davy for the detailed info and your time. It is very helpful. I don't think I will be able to do the oil change by myself. Haven't done that before, and not much time these days to learn and do it. Will get that checked from a mechanic. I'm going to the Agent this week for the timing belt change. I can ask from them what they suspect. It is a good thing to know these before talking with them and other mechanics.

Thanks Trinity. I remember reading about the loose clutch pedal of your Lancer in another thread when I was searching AL for this issue. In my case, I didn't feel any difference with the pedal.

Thanks for the quick help Davy. No, I didn't feel any difference with the pedal. Regarding the clutch life, I haven't changed it since I bought the car; 53000km ago. Don't know whether it was replaced by the previous owners. If the issue is with a cylinder, can it be intermittent? I'm wondering how it was working without an issue the next day when I travelled back 150km. (but on the return trip I was very careful to shift slowly and without sudden overtaking.)

@Davy, @trinity, @Hyaenidae have you guys come across this problem with your Lancers?

Thanks for the response, @vag2 No, it was difficult with all the gears. The last gear oil change was done 3 years ago when the mileage was 102000.

Hi All, 2 days ago I faced a shifting issue in my Lancer CS3 (132000km) after driving about 120km. While driving it became very hard to shift gears, and sometimes there was a grinding noise when shifting. When the engine was not running, it was not possible to change the gears at all. I checked the gear oil levels - no problem there (last oil change was done by the Agent). But the next day it was working without any problem. I'm suspecting a clutch plate issue. Any other suggestions? I'm anyway gonna take her to a mechanic soon. Thanks in advance!

Thanks Davy. Decided to get it done from the Agents this time too.

Noticed that thread today I did the last timing belt replacement and the engine tune-up from the Agents. Was thinking whether to go there again or try and find some other skilled + trustworthy mechanic (because my CS3 is 17 years old now). Finding such mechanic is quite difficult, especially for a task like this. Safest option is the Agents I believe.

Thanks @Hyaenidae I should do it then. So it seems 5 years is the max age wherever rubber is used. Be it tyres or belts.

Hi All, I got the timing belt changed in my CS3 about 53000km ago, in 2015. Recently, one mechanic told me that the belt looks a bit worn out. Then I enquired about the timing belt lifespan from the Agents. They told me it is about 5 years regardless of the number of KMs. When I googled about this, the average lifespan seems to be 7 - 10 years. I want to get the opinion from the Lancer experts here. Should I worry about changing it right now since that 5 years are reached? Thanks in advance! P.S. It's been ages since I posted something. (Should try to be more active on the forum )

Sure Trinity... Thanks for the input. Have a good one! Cheers!

Okay, finally got a chance to go to the AutoBox yesterday, and following is the quotation by them to fix the suspension system. Front Shock Absorbers = 22020 (after 25% off from 14680 x 2) Back Shock Absorbers = 16170 (after 25% off from 10780 x 2) Shock Mounts = 7500 (3750 x 2) Shock Boot = 3300 (1650 x 2) Lower Arm Bush = 3300 (1650 x 2) Rack End = 7400 (3700 x 2) Rack Adjustment = 300 Caliper Pin Repair = 4600 (1150 x 4) Break Pad Lockset = 5500 Bush Fitting Charge = 200 Labour Charge = 5850 Wheel Alignment = 1500 Total = 77640! I don't have a clue why a Caliper Pin repair (they said it need to be sent to a lathe shop) and a replacement of Break Pad Lockset (apparently these are available only at UniMo) are needed for a suspension repair. I forgot to inquire about that A mechanic did an inspection run, and he asked me whether break pads were replaced recently, probably because a squealing sound can be heard sometimes when breaking. Maybe that has something to do with the mentioned repairs in the breaking system? Anyway, I'm going to ask about that from them before doing the actual repair, if I'm to do it from them. (Reading on the breaking system right now ) One thing I'm really concerned about are their prices. The Shock Absorbers prices are way too high. For example, the front shocks will cost me 22020/= even after a 25% discount! When I inquired from TAAS couple of weeks back, they said they will give them for 17928 (including a 10% discount). Same story with the rear ones - only 15094/= at TAAS. These guys said they are also agents of TAAS, and their prices will be much lower than TAAS, which didn't turn out to be so. When I mentioned this, they said they might be able to give a further discount if the TAAS prices are actually lower than theirs. Also they said the prices from TAAS are probably for the Malaysian parts, not for the Japanese. I have to contact TAAS again to get that confirmed. Furthermore, when I offered to buy the stuff by myself, they said they don't accept items bought by the customers. Then I mentioned they have done that in the past (remembering what @Trinity has mentioned in a previous comment of this thread). To that they said: they were used to do that, but not anymore. Talking about the prices, they have also put 1500/= for wheel alignment. If I recall correctly, even Pit Stop's charges were lower than that. However, for @HashanJay AutoBox had charged 750/= only. Maybe the 1500/= for me includes the camber adjustment as noted in @Trinity's costs? They also charged me 1500/= for the inspection, and said they will refund it if I do the repair from them, which is somewhat fair enough. However, I did an inspection from Pit Stop before going to AutoBox, and they did it without charging anything! That was when I went there for a wheel alignment, to which they said it would be useless doing the alignment before fixing the suspension system. Their estimation for labour was 10000 - 15000/=. The main reason I wanted AutoBox's opinion was Pit Stop said I have to replace both Lower Arms. According to AutoBox only the bush needs to be replaced. I think they might probably give more discounts when I go for the actual repair, but after seeing the quotation (especially for the Shocks) I'm having second thoughts now. Seems I should better get another opinion from somewhere else, considering the total amount.

Thanks a lot Trinity for the prompt and helpful response. I will be visiting them soon. I'll have them inspect the car first, and then will try to buy the parts by myself. My car also does an annoying high-pitched whirring kinda sound when the wheels are fully turned! I first got to know this from an inspection place I took the vehicle to just before buying it. They mentioned replacing only the Power Steering Hose would not work - I have forgotten the actual part name they mentioned ... some kind of an "arm" or a "mount" (sounds very naive ) ... and it's costly according to them. Anyway, I'll be able to get that also checked from AutoBox. Thanks wolseley for the info! I think TAAS is associated with Namaratne, because in their website TAAS' website is given as a related site. Will give them a buzz and see.

I inquired the prices for KYB shocks for my CS3 today from TAAS. Front: 9960/=, Back: 8385/= each, and will get a 10% discount if paid by cash. The agent's price was 35000/= for a single front shock! (I don't remember whether it included the labour charges as well). @Trinity, do you still recommend AutoBox for a full suspension/steering repair (replacement of shocks + any other other worn out part), or is there a better place that I can go to? Appreciate your help.

Thanks Davy. That video was very helpful! Yes, I sanded and painted that metal bracket and all the visible/reachable rust on the door. I wonder why the manufacturer doesn't paint those metal parts. I'm sure once water gets inside the door that dried coating will get peeled-off and block the drain hole again. But, I can periodically check/clean those holes. At least now I know the doors are still in good condition

Removed the door panel today Some images attached. Seems the condition is not as bad as I imagined. There are some rust, but the bottom coating haven't completely given up yet, though it's started to peel off. And seems what's blocking the drain hole time-to-time is that dried-and-peeled-off coating + grease. I'm going to sand and apply anti-corrosive paint to the places I can.

Thanks Davy. I still couldn't get into that; will update the thread once I do it. Thanks for the advice Rumesh88! Apparently that door had been damaged by an accident (by a previous owner) and repaired. Maybe that has to do something with the clogging. Holes in the other 3 doors were very clean.