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PerfMad

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Everything posted by PerfMad

  1. Hi @Rumesh88 I took the car yesterday, and they said they were able to overcome the issue by advancing the distributor with removing the cap and t=fixing it with 1 bolt or something (which cannot be done by normal fix), however they said this cannot be done as a permanent fix. They say its due to bad distributor.. And replacing the distributor for a recon one will cost about 20k and will be bit difficult to find a VTEC one for my car as well.. His suggestion was to use the car like i did, untill i get an engine miss and its time to replace the distributor .. He also mentioned that this knock will not harm my vehicle as well ( fingers-crossed) @pasindups - thanks for the headsup machan... um gonna run this for sometime and iif this get worst of if i feel any difference then i will get what you mentioned checked as well.. Im tired of spending money and time at garage and finding out nothing at the end.. hmmmm Thanks everyone (specially @Rumesh88 & the rest) for the support given, and will keep you all posted if i come across any solution.
  2. Hi @Rumesh88 I checked with my mechanic today and he told me that, timing is correct.. He suspect the DALCO now.. What are your inputs? Any other specifics that i should look for? Cheers
  3. yes, u are correct, he did direct plug in.. not with a T joint.. Well, since i know the knock i was releasing the paddle bit slowly so it won't knock, unless i have to quicky stop the car due to bumper to bumper traffic.. will see his findings, and i will update u on that.. meantime if you come across any other possible fault, pls keep me posted so that i can get that checked as well..
  4. Hi @Rumesh88 - They checked for any cracks in insulation, and couldn't find any.. didnt check for resistance though..( they told its highly unlikely to be the plug wires, since car doesn't have any misses, and runs smoothly and idles smoothly) Even he told fuel pressure is too high, ideally it should be around 50.. didnt start the car but asked me to turn on the ignition to check the fuel pressure... Then only i asked him to check the filter as well, since i didnt find any history saying this was changed, and he confirmed this is the original one which came with the car.. They said they can also check with some other plug wire set, but unfortunately they couldn't find any at that moment just to check.. also he mentioned this could be due to bad coil in distributor, since he mentioned it, i checked my car history and found out that ignition coil has been replaced in 2012 from TECK motors..So i assume its highly unlikely to be that.. so i left it there to check the timing adjustment.. hopefully that will resolve my issue..hmmm but now i feel the car is more powerful than before... Yes they did replace the crank oil seal as well.. that is the only possible way that even they could think of.. however i kept the car to check on that as well.. hope that will resolve the problem.. Im just curious, will it do any harm to my car if i ignore this issue and keep using it daily (only if they couldn't resolve the issue) ??
  5. Hi @Rumesh88 Today i checked below areas: - Spark plugs (in good condition- including the gap) [Checked with some used iridium plugs as well] - Spark wires (seems good as well) - Cleaned distributor cap and contacts - Cleaned throttle body and checked the adjustment - Cleaned IACV - Checked fuel pressure and it was having 60PSI - Checked and replaced fuel filter as it was bit clogged - Finally did timing adjustment again and revert it to original state as well But still the knock is there... Mechanic told, that he needs to take the cover off and check the timing (i'm not quite sure whether they removed the timing belt during my oil seals replacement which was done 5months ago[i had lot of oil leaks therefore i asked them to replace all oil seals in engine bay]), but i cant remember whether i had this knock before I'm clueless, can you please shed some light ? I would highly appreciate ur inputs on this..
  6. how much did it cost you? much appreciated if you can share contact details on the thread as well.. So that someone else can directly contact them in case of a similar issue.
  7. @Rumesh88 i checked it today, and there were instances where i didnt get the knock when the engine was bit cold, but once its in working temp. i felt the knock even within 1500 rpm range most of the time.. So as for ur tips, i should start with IACV sensor and then fuel pressure, spark plugs and wires? I personally dont think doing a engine tuneup will be better, i rather check for specifics like above, isnt it? just curious could this be due to a vacuum leak or something as well? do you think i may need to replace this unit? if so any idea how much will it cost?
  8. Ok machan, i will check this today evening and update you on my findings.. Im planning to put the car to garage again to resolve this and one of my rear suspension sound . So i wanted to filter out to least possible issues, that could lead to this prob, rather than replacing or doing any unwanted things blindly..
  9. I wasn't there when they did the tuneup (since it was done on a weekday).. they said they cleaned all the sensors and plugs and wires were in good shape so no need to replace as well. I will start with the fuel pressure then.. Just curious what should be the standard value (as in for an example if the value is less than X, then its preferred to change the pump) ? And i'll check whether it will make the knock is below 1500.. However just curious, either way (even if its below or above 1500) it shouldn't make a knock right?
  10. even after the adjustment, i dont feel any difference in timing though ( i think he just set it back to usual state, since i complained rev have increased ).. however, if i release the gas padel suddenly, then i will get the knock in 1st and 2nd gears specially. But if i release it slowly then it will reduce smoothly without a knock.. Could this be due to petrol starvation ? I dont think mine have replaced the fuel filter nor fuel pump and currently ODO meter reading is close to 190K.. Do you think its better to do a tuneup again? I did one like 6 months ago, due to lack of pulling power.. after the tuneup it was resolved, and still it has good pulling power.. But i dont think they checked the fuel pump pressure..
  11. This could be due to some issue or worn out parts in ur tranny.. Better to get it checked with some auto gear box repair mechanic..
  12. Thanks for the explanation Davy. I will get it checked, and i'll make sure they inspect it properly than replacing parts blindly.. And ya this has a bit of a complex suspension design .. will see how it goes..
  13. Just to add to what u mentioned, he did kept an oil seal for both shock mounts (if thats what connects from inside diky, and tightened the nut saying this should omit any sound if its coming from the shock mount.. but it didnt help either.. So as per you there isnt anyother way than replacing to check noise is there or not? Can you direct me to a good place to get these checked, before replacing? (only if there is no other way to diagnose this issue properly) ??
  14. Hi Davy - Nope, i just bought the shocks only, since care care people told. I just asked my mechanic to get it fixed.. Is there any possibility to identify this is the exact issue, without replacing the shock mount as well? And also if the left side is faulty, is it good to replace left shock mount ONLY? or do I have to replace both together ?
  15. Nope, actually it wasnt the mech, mech's golaya only did it..he didnt use anything, he just used moved it abit based on the sound it revs i guess.. but since the idle was bit higher i think he kept it the same location (not quite sure though).. I really need to get this sorted. all this time i thought this may b due to manual, didnt no it was an issue, until you explained it.. Is there any good place that you can recommend ? How much will it cause just to get this timing re-done the way you mentioned ?
  16. Hi Experts I'm currently having a Honda City 2001 vtec model car, and like month ago i went to do my wheel alignment to Car ***e and found out rear left shock had 0 gas on it, so they asked me to replace mine and come back for the alignment. Therefore I went and bought 2 Tokico shocks and replaced em. However, before shock replacement I had a daga daga noise whenever i go through a shitty road.. Initially i thought this was due to bad shocks, but even after replacing my shocks i was keep getting that same noise from same side. Then i though this could be due to back spare wheel plywood board, and tried removing everything. But noise was there.. So last saturday i went to my garage and asked my mech to check it, then he went down and checked and he said links are weak so need to replace (because it was making some noise after shaking), then i replaced both sides with genuine items which were bought from Tec motors, and even after that i was getting the same noise.. Then he went under the car and asked me to "car eka podak padanna" i did it couple of times so that he can identify the root cause.. But he wasnt able to.. I took the car as i wanted to go somewhere and needed the car so badly. I told i will bring it back on friday. He said needs to remove left shockabsober again and see.. What do you guys think could be the root cause for this sound? Is there workaround to verify the root cause before replacing anything else further ? Hoping to hear from all of you, since i don't wanna replace anything even though its worn out, unless that is what making the noise.. Cheers PerfMad
  17. Hi Rumesh88 I just showed mine to my mechanic (mech ge golaya tamai baluwe), he went with me for a ride and i showed him the exact issue, he said it can be overcome by advancing the ignition (by rotating the distributor position), by doing so Rev increased upto 1000 from 850... Then I told him it got increased and he reduced it, didnt see how it was reduced.. however after adjusting the distributor position, he said now this should be good and go for a ride and see.. but i felt the same feeling. So i took the car because i was in a hurry to to go somewhr else and i told him i will put the car again on friday to get it checked.. My question is, What he did was correct? (adjusting the distributor position) ?? What are the pros and cons in doing so? Im gonna ask him to start testing from spark plugs and plug wires on friday, cz this knock is really annoying when driving in low gears specially...
  18. OK machan.. thanks for the headsup.. I will get each of these tested one by one, if the spark plugs and wires are in good shape..
  19. Ok I will get it checked tomorrow and update you on that.. is there anything else that needs to be checked after that? if everything is fine.. P.S. There were two instances where when i start the car initially i felt sort of a miss, but it was there for like 10-20 secs and just vanished and never came back again...
  20. Hi Rumesh88 - When engine is cold RPM sits at 1500 and then slowly cm down to 800, I never felt any miss though.. i feel it specially lets say i go in the 2nd gear and speed is around 20-30 and if i take the leg off from the padel, then also i get a sort of a jerk.. is that normal...? Same sort of jerk comes when AC engages and kick off during above mentioned speed limit specially.. However i can check what u told, and give my feedback today..
  21. in idle it works smoothly .. i can hardly feel AC is engaging and disengaging.. However my car is a manual, so when i speed within 20-40kmh range and lets say i shifted from 1st to second gear when speed is 20kmh and if suddenly AC kicks in during that time, i feel it bit hard, with a sudden vibration.. other than that it not noticeable
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